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Katastrofo
Joined: 26 Feb 2007
Posts: 10405
Location: USA
Expire: 2013-11-19
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 Posted: Thu May 10, 2012 12:16 am Post subject: |
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Katastrofo wrote:
My next reels will be like the ones Jussi got with the big film guide. They go by the name of Kaiser in Europe and fit the
Paterson tanks.
With Rodinal stand I start with a temp of 18C. This is Fomapan 200 shot at box speed using the above method, the grain would
be far less pronounced with Efke 25 or 50, at least in the samples I've seen, spectacularly tight grain.
fellow retired corpsman buddy
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erkie
Joined: 08 Oct 2011
Posts: 308
Location: Missouri
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| Posted: Thu May 10, 2012 12:24 am Post subject: |
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erkie wrote:
Rodinal can be good for most of the films I have used it on. I am careful to keep the temps around 18-30 C though for stand development with rodinal. With Efke films (25 and 50 iso ) stand development in rodinal is my choice when I'm trying to squeeze 10 or more stops of light onto a negative and keep detail in the highlights. Up to 10 stops I prefer Beutler A+B again not above 20C . But understand that I am looking for a flatter and more dense negative than you would look for for scanning. My printer frowns at me when I give her a negative exposed for scanning instead of wet printing !
In either Rodinal or Beutler it is the agitation that makes more difference . I use very gentle agitations for each. Not at all like when I use something like Ilford ID-11 or a Thornton two bath.
Of course Film development is a very personalized thing.
I think the easiest trial for Rodinal stand is to shoot some Fuji Across bracketed shots and develop with 3ml of rodinal in 500-600 ml of water for one hour with gentle agitation for first minute and a very gentle turn at 30minutes. Easy to see what I mean by thinner negs for scanning and denser ones for printing that way.
Just my thoughts 
_________________
I shoot film and meter with digital 
Asahi H3v, Praktica FX3, Retina IIa, Spotmatic sp1000, Fujica V2, Yashica lynx5000, Pentax Sf1, Minolta SRT102, Minolta7000i, Pentax MX, Pentax ME, Pentax Kx
lensesM42- Isco Gottingen Westanar 50/2.8, Isco Gottingen Westron 35/2.8, Rikenon 35/2.8, Spiratone Tc 105/2.5, Spiratone Tc 200/4.5, Sankyo Kohki Komura 300/5, Sankyo Kohki Komura 135/3.5, Auto Tak 35/3.5, Super Tak 150/4, S-M-C Tak 50/1.4, S-M-C Tak 28/3.5, SMC Tak 55/2, Mamya Sekor 55/1.8
K- mount- Helios 44-K-4, Jc penny 28/2.8, Da 18-55, Da 55-300, Pentax F 35-70, SMCP M 50/1.4, SMCP M 50/1.7
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Katastrofo
Joined: 26 Feb 2007
Posts: 10405
Location: USA
Expire: 2013-11-19
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| Posted: Thu May 10, 2012 12:30 am Post subject: |
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Katastrofo wrote:
| mmelvis wrote: |
| Katastrofo wrote: |
Orio, thanks, I don't know what I did wrong with the TriX!  |
You did nothing wrong the effect is very nice |
Mmelvis, thanks, I like the effect, too, was surprised at the result for such expired film. HC-110 seems to counter
whatever fog might be in expired TriX from what I've read, which was after developing this roll! |
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Katastrofo
Joined: 26 Feb 2007
Posts: 10405
Location: USA
Expire: 2013-11-19
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| Posted: Thu May 10, 2012 12:51 am Post subject: |
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Katastrofo wrote:
| erkie wrote: |
Rodinal can be good for most of the films I have used it on. I am careful to keep the temps around 18-30 C though for stand development with rodinal. With Efke films (25 and 50 iso ) stand development in rodinal is my choice when I'm trying to squeeze 10 or more stops of light onto a negative and keep detail in the highlights. Up to 10 stops I prefer Beutler A+B again not above 20C . But understand that I am looking for a flatter and more dense negative than you would look for for scanning. My printer frowns at me when I give her a negative exposed for scanning instead of wet printing !
In either Rodinal or Beutler it is the agitation that makes more difference . I use very gentle agitations for each. Not at all like when I use something like Ilford ID-11 or a Thornton two bath.
Of course Film development is a very personalized thing.
I think the easiest trial for Rodinal stand is to shoot some Fuji Across bracketed shots and develop with 3ml of rodinal in 500-600 ml of water for one hour with gentle agitation for first minute and a very gentle turn at 30minutes. Easy to see what I mean by thinner negs for scanning and denser ones for printing that way.
Just my thoughts |
Erkie, when I get into wet-printing, I'm going to be bugging you. Need to Google this Beutler you've mentioned... |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 29545
Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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| Posted: Thu May 10, 2012 1:05 am Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
What is your opinion guys about the so called "compensating developers" that in theory should give results with wide latitude (but of course not as wide as stand development)?
_________________
Orio, Administrator
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erkie
Joined: 08 Oct 2011
Posts: 308
Location: Missouri
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| Posted: Thu May 10, 2012 1:06 am Post subject: |
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erkie wrote:
I apologize but in the first line of my post it should say 18-20C not 18-30C 
You may have heard Beutler called by Neofin Blau ? which is about the same as some formulas of Beutler. I don't here people talk of it that much which is a shame. It surprisingly works well on some of the newer t-grain films which considering when the developer was formulated is a nice surprise.
_________________
I shoot film and meter with digital
Asahi H3v, Praktica FX3, Retina IIa, Spotmatic sp1000, Fujica V2, Yashica lynx5000, Pentax Sf1, Minolta SRT102, Minolta7000i, Pentax MX, Pentax ME, Pentax Kx
lensesM42- Isco Gottingen Westanar 50/2.8, Isco Gottingen Westron 35/2.8, Rikenon 35/2.8, Spiratone Tc 105/2.5, Spiratone Tc 200/4.5, Sankyo Kohki Komura 300/5, Sankyo Kohki Komura 135/3.5, Auto Tak 35/3.5, Super Tak 150/4, S-M-C Tak 50/1.4, S-M-C Tak 28/3.5, SMC Tak 55/2, Mamya Sekor 55/1.8
K- mount- Helios 44-K-4, Jc penny 28/2.8, Da 18-55, Da 55-300, Pentax F 35-70, SMCP M 50/1.4, SMCP M 50/1.7
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Katastrofo
Joined: 26 Feb 2007
Posts: 10405
Location: USA
Expire: 2013-11-19
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| Posted: Thu May 10, 2012 1:17 am Post subject: |
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Katastrofo wrote:
I've heard of Neofin Blau, as I recall it is rather spensive. Can't remember where I've seen it offered, maybe at Digital Truth. A friend
in southern Alabama sent me some rolls of TMAX 3200, wondering what I'll use to dev those.
Orio, I like Thornton's 2-bath, cheap as chips to make, and is a compensating developer. Diafine is another, some people don't like
the looks of it, flat negatives. |
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erkie
Joined: 08 Oct 2011
Posts: 308
Location: Missouri
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| Posted: Thu May 10, 2012 1:25 am Post subject: |
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erkie wrote:
| Katastrofo wrote: |
I've heard of Neofin Blau, as I recall it is rather spensive. Can't remember where I've seen it offered, maybe at Digital Truth. A friend
in southern Alabama sent me some rolls of TMAX 3200, wondering what I'll use to dev those.
Orio, I like Thornton's 2-bath, cheap as chips to make, and is a compensating developer. Diafine is another, some people don't like
the looks of it, flat negatives. |
My bad ! Don't buy it Make it !!!! I will post a recipe in development section this evening. Very simple and dirt cheap too.
_________________
I shoot film and meter with digital
Asahi H3v, Praktica FX3, Retina IIa, Spotmatic sp1000, Fujica V2, Yashica lynx5000, Pentax Sf1, Minolta SRT102, Minolta7000i, Pentax MX, Pentax ME, Pentax Kx
lensesM42- Isco Gottingen Westanar 50/2.8, Isco Gottingen Westron 35/2.8, Rikenon 35/2.8, Spiratone Tc 105/2.5, Spiratone Tc 200/4.5, Sankyo Kohki Komura 300/5, Sankyo Kohki Komura 135/3.5, Auto Tak 35/3.5, Super Tak 150/4, S-M-C Tak 50/1.4, S-M-C Tak 28/3.5, SMC Tak 55/2, Mamya Sekor 55/1.8
K- mount- Helios 44-K-4, Jc penny 28/2.8, Da 18-55, Da 55-300, Pentax F 35-70, SMCP M 50/1.4, SMCP M 50/1.7
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Katastrofo
Joined: 26 Feb 2007
Posts: 10405
Location: USA
Expire: 2013-11-19
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| Posted: Thu May 10, 2012 1:49 am Post subject: |
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Katastrofo wrote:
Erkie, looking forward to it! |
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