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Doc Sharptail
Joined: 23 Nov 2020
Posts: 1214
Location: Winnipeg Canada
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 Posted: Sat Dec 30, 2023 7:54 pm Post subject: |
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Doc Sharptail wrote:
| stevemark wrote: |
Nikkor S 2.8/35mm - looking rather nicely, but (at first) with aperture stuck wide open and focus completely blocked. Plus some rust dust on the inner lens surfaces. Well, those early 2.8/35 Nikkors are rather scarce here, the price was right (CHF 15.-- including a Pentax-M 2.8/28mm and a Tokina RMC 3.5-4.3/35-105mm), and both the aperture as well as the focusing are working now, after some fiddling ... I'll nevertheless have to clean / relube the entire Nikkor 2.8/35mm, but it will look quite nice soon!
S |
I had one with a severely dented filter ring. It seemed to be optically o.k. for close focus work, but really sort of poor for landscape/scenic work. I'm fairly certain that the optical path was knocked askew on that lens e:g "decentered". I replaced it with a great condition "O" 35mm f2 (which is a totally different lens) and haven't looked back...
-D.S.
_________________
D-810, F2, FTN.
35mm f2 O.C. nikkor
50 f2 H nikkor, 50 f 1.4 AI-s, 135 f3.5 Q,
50 f2 K nikkor 2x, 28-85mm f3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 35-105 3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 200mm f4 Micro A/I, partial list.
"Ain't no half-way" -S.R.V.
"Oh Yeah... Alright" -Paul Simon |
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stevemark
Joined: 29 Apr 2011
Posts: 4082
Location: Switzerland
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| Posted: Sun Dec 31, 2023 6:37 pm Post subject: |
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stevemark wrote:
The Nikkor-S Auto 2.8/35mm I got yesterday has been partially restored:
The lens had been looking rather ugly, with corroded & stuck aperture blades:
Since I was missing the necessary special screwdrivers to open the lens barrel I just cleaned the aperture mechanism superficially. For time being the result is acceptable, and the aperture moves again (though not as freely as intended):
Both lens surfaces facing the aperture mechanism were completely "blinded" with rust and dust. Nevertheless cleaning them was no problem.
However I wasn't able to open the front optical block, and one lens surface inside it still has some minor fogging. While I have the necessary rubber tools to remove the front rings (nameplates) of lenses, I never (!) managed to remove any of those rings. Obviously the Chinese rubber tools I bought are just crap; they lack the necessary grip, and their surface feels pretty slippery ... 
Anyway, the lens will need a proper servicing as soon as I got the necessary screwdrivers, but for time being it works already much much better than when I got it 
S
_________________
www.artaphot.ch |
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stevemark
Joined: 29 Apr 2011
Posts: 4082
Location: Switzerland
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| Posted: Mon Jan 01, 2024 5:15 pm Post subject: |
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stevemark wrote:
Rodenstock Rotelar 4/135mm with DKL mount - not arrived yet, however
A nice addition to the two other DKL mount 4/135mm that are already here, a Voigtländer Super Dynarex 4/135mm and a Schneider Tele Xenar 4/135mm.
S
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kiddo
Joined: 29 Jun 2018
Posts: 1273
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| Posted: Mon Jan 01, 2024 11:03 pm Post subject: |
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kiddo wrote:
| stevemark wrote: |
Rodenstock Rotelar 4/135mm with DKL mount - not arrived yet, however
A nice addition to the two other DKL mount 4/135mm that are already here, a Voigtländer Super Dynarex 4/135mm and a Schneider Tele Xenar 4/135mm.
S |
I had dynarex but didn't like like long MFD , do they all share the same large distance (was it 4m?) - on the other hand , I did like the colors ,very vintage look |
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stevemark
Joined: 29 Apr 2011
Posts: 4082
Location: Switzerland
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| Posted: Tue Jan 02, 2024 12:00 am Post subject: |
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stevemark wrote:
| kiddo wrote: |
| stevemark wrote: |
Rodenstock Rotelar 4/135mm with DKL mount - not arrived yet, however
A nice addition to the two other DKL mount 4/135mm that are already here, a Voigtländer Super Dynarex 4/135mm and a Schneider Tele Xenar 4/135mm.
S |
I had dynarex but didn't like like long MFD , do they all share the same large distance (was it 4m?) - on the other hand , I did like the colors ,very vintage look |
All these lenses have the 4 m MFD - I have no idea why to be honest. There's some information about the Rotelar and its perfomance on German forums, and it doesn't seem to be very good, at least for landscape purposes. Neither Tele Xenar nor Super Dynarex are good lenses by today's standards, but I'll have to play with them a bit more to see their potential.
S
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Alun Thomas
Joined: 20 Aug 2018
Posts: 662
Location: New Zealand
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| Posted: Tue Jan 02, 2024 12:34 am Post subject: |
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Alun Thomas wrote:
| stevemark wrote: |
| kiddo wrote: |
| stevemark wrote: |
Rodenstock Rotelar 4/135mm with DKL mount - not arrived yet, however
A nice addition to the two other DKL mount 4/135mm that are already here, a Voigtländer Super Dynarex 4/135mm and a Schneider Tele Xenar 4/135mm.
S |
I had dynarex but didn't like like long MFD , do they all share the same large distance (was it 4m?) - on the other hand , I did like the colors ,very vintage look |
All these lenses have the 4 m MFD - I have no idea why to be honest. There's some information about the Rotelar and its perfomance on German forums, and it doesn't seem to be very good, at least for landscape purposes. Neither Tele Xenar nor Super Dynarex are good lenses by today's standards, but I'll have to play with them a bit more to see their potential.
S |
The rear element is quite narrow due to the leaf shutter opening not being much bigger. I assume it is because of the modest dimensions of the DKL mount, the restrictive opening, and the amount of movement needed to focus closer for a long focal length lens, too much movement may interfere with the light path to the film/sensor. Having said that, other comparable leaf shutter systems do focus closer, the Kowa 135/4 goes to 1.7m, the Agfaflex 135/4 goes to 2.5m and the Pentina Domigor to 2.7m. Perhaps their dimensions are less restrictive. |
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BrianSVP
Joined: 09 Jun 2023
Posts: 354
Location: Philadelphia
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| Posted: Tue Jan 02, 2024 2:17 am Post subject: |
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BrianSVP wrote:
The gems in the DKL system are all 100mm or less, and some of those lenses are very good indeed.
The 135s are all pretty ho-hum, regardless of the manufacturer. The Dynarex is the best of the bunch but doesn't do anything a million other 135s do, and the handling on all of them is pretty poor. The handfuls of 200s and up in the mount are uniformly bad.
| Alun Thomas wrote: |
| stevemark wrote: |
| kiddo wrote: |
| stevemark wrote: |
Rodenstock Rotelar 4/135mm with DKL mount - not arrived yet, however
A nice addition to the two other DKL mount 4/135mm that are already here, a Voigtländer Super Dynarex 4/135mm and a Schneider Tele Xenar 4/135mm.
S |
I had dynarex but didn't like like long MFD , do they all share the same large distance (was it 4m?) - on the other hand , I did like the colors ,very vintage look |
All these lenses have the 4 m MFD - I have no idea why to be honest. There's some information about the Rotelar and its perfomance on German forums, and it doesn't seem to be very good, at least for landscape purposes. Neither Tele Xenar nor Super Dynarex are good lenses by today's standards, but I'll have to play with them a bit more to see their potential.
S |
The rear element is quite narrow due to the leaf shutter opening not being much bigger. I assume it is because of the modest dimensions of the DKL mount, the restrictive opening, and the amount of movement needed to focus closer for a long focal length lens, too much movement may interfere with the light path to the film/sensor. Having said that, other comparable leaf shutter systems do focus closer, the Kowa 135/4 goes to 1.7m, the Agfaflex 135/4 goes to 2.5m and the Pentina Domigor to 2.7m. Perhaps their dimensions are less restrictive. |
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Doc Sharptail
Joined: 23 Nov 2020
Posts: 1214
Location: Winnipeg Canada
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| Posted: Tue Jan 02, 2024 2:54 am Post subject: |
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Doc Sharptail wrote:
| stevemark wrote: |
The Nikkor-S Auto 2.8/35mm I got yesterday has been partially restored:
The lens had been looking rather ugly, with corroded & stuck aperture blades:
Since I was missing the necessary special screwdrivers to open the lens barrel I just cleaned the aperture mechanism superficially. For time being the result is acceptable, and the aperture moves again (though not as freely as intended):
Both lens surfaces facing the aperture mechanism were completely "blinded" with rust and dust. Nevertheless cleaning them was no problem.
However I wasn't able to open the front optical block, and one lens surface inside it still has some minor fogging. While I have the necessary rubber tools to remove the front rings (nameplates) of lenses, I never (!) managed to remove any of those rings. Obviously the Chinese rubber tools I bought are just crap; they lack the necessary grip, and their surface feels pretty slippery ...
Anyway, the lens will need a proper servicing as soon as I got the necessary screwdrivers, but for time being it works already much much better than when I got it
S |
I'm pretty sure Richard H. covers this lens in one of his tear down videos.
It looks like alkali corrosion from what I can see here with the bright orange oxidization- probably had a freshwater dunk at some time in it's life ala Jackie Onassis and her loaner "F" 
Surprising you were able to get as far into it as you did. Those bayonet flat head slot screws can get pretty nasty on some variants with the equivalent of red loctite used to anchor them. On some nikkor lenses, the name rings got the same epoxy on the threads treatment as well.
-D.S.
_________________
D-810, F2, FTN.
35mm f2 O.C. nikkor
50 f2 H nikkor, 50 f 1.4 AI-s, 135 f3.5 Q,
50 f2 K nikkor 2x, 28-85mm f3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 35-105 3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 200mm f4 Micro A/I, partial list.
"Ain't no half-way" -S.R.V.
"Oh Yeah... Alright" -Paul Simon |
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Mir
Joined: 07 Feb 2011
Posts: 983
Location: Montreal, Canada
Expire: 2017-09-30
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| Posted: Tue Jan 02, 2024 9:02 pm Post subject: |
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Mir wrote:
A shiny Canon Serenar 1,8/50 from 1952
_________________
"Obsta principiis, finem respice"
"There is a fine line between hobby and mental illness"
MISC: Tamron SP 35-80 (01A), Auto Chinon Tomioka 1.4/55, Tokina AT-X 2.5/90, Tamron SP 5,6/300 (54B)
ZEISS: WG Distagon 2.8/25, WG Distagon 2.8/35 HFT, WG Planar HFT 1.4/50, Ultron 1.8/50, WG Sonnar 2.8/85, WG Sonnar HFT 2.8/135
VOIGTLÄNDER : Ultron Aspherical 1.8/21, Ultron 2/28, Nokton Aspherical 1.2/35, Nokton Classic 1.4/40, Nokton 1.2/50, Nokton Aspherical 1.5/50, Color-Heliar 2.5/75
MINOLTA: MD 3.5/35-70 Macro, MD 1.2/50, MC Rokkor-X 1.2/58, MD Macro 3.5/50
LEITZ: SUMMICRON-R 2/35 (II), SUMMICRON-R 2/50 (II), TELE ELMARIT-M 2,8/90 (Thin)
CANON RF: 2.8/28, 2/35, 1.2/50, 1.4/50, 1.5/50, Serenar 1.8/50, 2/85, 2/100, 3.5/100
LTM : YASHICA YASHINON 1.8/5cm, FUJINON L 2/5cm, CHIYODA KOGAKU SUPER ROKKOR 1.8/5cm, CHIYOKO SUPER ROKKOR C 2/5cm, TOKYO KOGAKU Topcor-S 2/5cm, Nippon Kogaku NIKKOR-H.C 2/5cm, KMZ Jupiter-8 2/5cm
DKL : VOIGTLÄNDER SKOPAREX 3,4/35, SEPTON 2/50, DYNAREX 3,4/90, SUPER-DYNAREX 4/135, Scheiner-Kreuznach Retina-Xenon 1,9/50
And a small Minolta AF set: 2.8/20, 1.4/35, 1.4/50, 2/100, 4.5/100-200
@we3fotography
@7plus_pictures
@_whats.that.car_ |
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stevemark
Joined: 29 Apr 2011
Posts: 4082
Location: Switzerland
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| Posted: Tue Jan 02, 2024 11:32 pm Post subject: |
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stevemark wrote:
@ Alun & Brian: thank you for the additional information!
| Doc Sharptail wrote: |
Those bayonet flat head slot screws can get pretty nasty on some variants with the equivalent of red loctite used to anchor them. |
That was exactly the problem (or better one of two problems) ... I soaked them with acetone, but couldn't turn them with my (not precisely fitting) screwdriver.
| Doc Sharptail wrote: |
On some nikkor lenses, the name rings got the same epoxy on the threads treatment as well.
-D.S. |
That was (is) the other problem.
S
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www.artaphot.ch |
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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007
Posts: 5044
Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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| Posted: Wed Jan 03, 2024 1:53 pm Post subject: |
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kansalliskala wrote:
| stevemark wrote: |
@ Alun & Brian: thank you for the additional information!
| Doc Sharptail wrote: |
Those bayonet flat head slot screws can get pretty nasty on some variants with the equivalent of red loctite used to anchor them. |
That was exactly the problem (or better one of two problems) ... I soaked them with acetone, but couldn't turn them with my (not precisely fitting) screwdriver.
S |
another method is to use heat to them
_________________
MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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kiddo
Joined: 29 Jun 2018
Posts: 1273
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| Posted: Wed Jan 03, 2024 3:17 pm Post subject: |
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kiddo wrote:
| kansalliskala wrote: |
| stevemark wrote: |
@ Alun & Brian: thank you for the additional information!
| Doc Sharptail wrote: |
Those bayonet flat head slot screws can get pretty nasty on some variants with the equivalent of red loctite used to anchor them. |
That was exactly the problem (or better one of two problems) ... I soaked them with acetone, but couldn't turn them with my (not precisely fitting) screwdriver.
S |
another method is to use heat to them |
I have a yashica ml 50mm that uses same red loctite imposible to open screws neither front group , what kind of specific tool would be to heat the screws (I imagine a very thin torch directed on the screw only, but don't know exactly if there's anything like that) |
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Doc Sharptail
Joined: 23 Nov 2020
Posts: 1214
Location: Winnipeg Canada
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| Posted: Wed Jan 03, 2024 3:32 pm Post subject: |
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Doc Sharptail wrote:
| kiddo wrote: |
| kansalliskala wrote: |
| stevemark wrote: |
@ Alun & Brian: thank you for the additional information!
| Doc Sharptail wrote: |
Those bayonet flat head slot screws can get pretty nasty on some variants with the equivalent of red loctite used to anchor them. |
That was exactly the problem (or better one of two problems) ... I soaked them with acetone, but couldn't turn them with my (not precisely fitting) screwdriver.
S |
another method is to use heat to them |
I have a yashica ml 50mm that uses same red loctite imposible to open screws neither front group , what kind of specific tool would be to heat the screws (I imagine a very thin torch directed on the screw only, but don't know exactly if there's anything like that) |
I've had about 90% success rate with a small soldering iron. It takes a lot of time and patience with this method. Whether I'm using heat or acetone based solvent, it seems to help a lot to run the screw in a bit first. Some bayonet screws take a lot of backing in and out before I can get a couple of good fully rotational turns.
-D.S.
_________________
D-810, F2, FTN.
35mm f2 O.C. nikkor
50 f2 H nikkor, 50 f 1.4 AI-s, 135 f3.5 Q,
50 f2 K nikkor 2x, 28-85mm f3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 35-105 3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 200mm f4 Micro A/I, partial list.
"Ain't no half-way" -S.R.V.
"Oh Yeah... Alright" -Paul Simon |
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kiddo
Joined: 29 Jun 2018
Posts: 1273
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| Posted: Wed Jan 03, 2024 5:08 pm Post subject: |
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kiddo wrote:
I've tried soldering tool 30w with no succes, it seems it is not capable of transmission enough heat to the screw |
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Doc Sharptail
Joined: 23 Nov 2020
Posts: 1214
Location: Winnipeg Canada
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| Posted: Wed Jan 03, 2024 5:24 pm Post subject: |
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Doc Sharptail wrote:
| kiddo wrote: |
| I've tried soldering tool 30w with no succes, it seems it is not capable of transmission enough heat to the screw |
It takes quite some time to heat them- they are quite long for a machine screw. Some of the worst bonded screws took over 7-8 minutes of heating time for me and my 35 W tool.
-D.S.
_________________
D-810, F2, FTN.
35mm f2 O.C. nikkor
50 f2 H nikkor, 50 f 1.4 AI-s, 135 f3.5 Q,
50 f2 K nikkor 2x, 28-85mm f3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 35-105 3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 200mm f4 Micro A/I, partial list.
"Ain't no half-way" -S.R.V.
"Oh Yeah... Alright" -Paul Simon |
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stevemark
Joined: 29 Apr 2011
Posts: 4082
Location: Switzerland
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| Posted: Wed Jan 03, 2024 5:39 pm Post subject: |
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stevemark wrote:
Meyer Görlitz Telemegor 4.5/300mm (not sure yet about the mount) for CHF 20.--. Not arrived yet, though.
S
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www.artaphot.ch |
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Lloydy
Joined: 02 Sep 2009
Posts: 7796
Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
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| Posted: Wed Jan 03, 2024 5:55 pm Post subject: |
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Lloydy wrote:
I've been interested in a Trioplan for a long time, but the prices are crazy, so I bought the TT Artisan 100 / 2.8 'bubble monster' instead. It was cheaper than any half decent Trioplan I'd seen and supposedly it's a copy - so I paid my money and bought it direct from TT Artisan. It's also the first brand new lens I've bought , other than kit lenses with cameras, in over 15 years.
It's a very nice lens, nice quality and performance that so far I like very much. But it has a major issue...the lens is upside down. It's ok on a Sony adapter that is radially adjustable, but it's rubbish on any M42 camera. I've had a long 'discussion' with TT Artisan about this, and to be fair they have resolved the issue, and I've got the lens.
_________________
LENSES & CAMERAS FOR SALE.....
I have loads of stuff that I have to get rid of, if you see me commenting about something I have got and you want one, ask me.
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/mudplugga/
My ipernity -
http://www.ipernity.com/home/294337 |
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BrianSVP
Joined: 09 Jun 2023
Posts: 354
Location: Philadelphia
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| Posted: Wed Jan 03, 2024 9:35 pm Post subject: |
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BrianSVP wrote:
On the Nikkors with flat heads, it's REALLY important to have a screwdriver that is very sharp and fits the slots very precisely, since Nikon used rather soft metal in them, and it's really easy to bugger the slots if the driver dowsn't fit right. I actually have a dedicated screwdriver that I shaped with a whetstone to exaactly fit the Nikkor slots, and it works wonders and can even usually take out the threadlocked screws without additional solvent. Also note that on some of the Nikkors with flatheads on tehbayonet, the most firmly attached of the screws doesn't anchor the bayonet to the body but is rather the attachment point for the aperture lever return spring and doesn't actually have to be removed. Usually there are 4 screws in a "peace sign" arrangement, with the 5th screw that doesn't fit the pattern at 90 degrees CW from the aperture lever being the spring anchor.
For the Yashicas, it's absolutely necessary to use the appropriate JIS screwdriver to remove the rear screws. Typically, I apply acetone with an eyedropper on each screw head and let it soak for at least a minute before I attempt to remove the screws. Heat typically isn't necessary if you are patient with the solvent. The front rings on the DS and later Yashicas don't use the loctite-style threadlock as used on the rear screws, but rather a viscous red goo that is not fully solid, which is also used to attach the front barrel. Heating the whole lens cell in an electric oven set to its lowest temperature for about 15 minutes often helps soften it if you can't remove the retaining ring. Put the lens in while the oven is cold positioned away form any heating elements, and let it heat with the oven so as not to shock the glass.
| Doc Sharptail wrote: |
| kiddo wrote: |
| kansalliskala wrote: |
| stevemark wrote: |
@ Alun & Brian: thank you for the additional information!
| Doc Sharptail wrote: |
Those bayonet flat head slot screws can get pretty nasty on some variants with the equivalent of red loctite used to anchor them. |
That was exactly the problem (or better one of two problems) ... I soaked them with acetone, but couldn't turn them with my (not precisely fitting) screwdriver.
S |
another method is to use heat to them |
I have a yashica ml 50mm that uses same red loctite imposible to open screws neither front group , what kind of specific tool would be to heat the screws (I imagine a very thin torch directed on the screw only, but don't know exactly if there's anything like that) |
I've had about 90% success rate with a small soldering iron. It takes a lot of time and patience with this method. Whether I'm using heat or acetone based solvent, it seems to help a lot to run the screw in a bit first. Some bayonet screws take a lot of backing in and out before I can get a couple of good fully rotational turns.
-D.S. |
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Doc Sharptail
Joined: 23 Nov 2020
Posts: 1214
Location: Winnipeg Canada
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| Posted: Thu Jan 04, 2024 12:34 am Post subject: |
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Doc Sharptail wrote:
| BrianSVP wrote: |
| On the Nikkors with flat heads, it's REALLY important to have a screwdriver that is very sharp and fits the slots very precisely, since Nikon used rather soft metal in them, and it's really easy to bugger the slots if the driver dowsn't fit right. I actually have a dedicated screwdriver that I shaped with a whetstone to exaactly fit the Nikkor slots, and it works wonders and can even usually take out the threadlocked screws without additional solvent. Also note that on some of the Nikkors with flatheads on tehbayonet, the most firmly attached of the screws doesn't anchor the bayonet to the body but is rather the attachment point for the aperture lever return spring and doesn't actually have to be removed. Usually there are 4 screws in a "peace sign" arrangement, with the 5th screw that doesn't fit the pattern at 90 degrees CW from the aperture lever being the spring anchor. |
That particular aperture anchoring system does not occur on all nikkor lenses. On some earlier and later lenses, the spring tensioner actually anchors to the aperture ring it's self with a screw through the ring to hold it in place.
The advice above on properly fitted screw drivers cannot be emphasized enough here. The straight slot screws on some camera and lenses are quite easily damaged by improper fitting screw driver blades.
-D.S.
_________________
D-810, F2, FTN.
35mm f2 O.C. nikkor
50 f2 H nikkor, 50 f 1.4 AI-s, 135 f3.5 Q,
50 f2 K nikkor 2x, 28-85mm f3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 35-105 3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 200mm f4 Micro A/I, partial list.
"Ain't no half-way" -S.R.V.
"Oh Yeah... Alright" -Paul Simon |
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ZuikosHexanonsandVivitars
Joined: 03 Nov 2021
Posts: 254
Location: Austria
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| Posted: Thu Jan 04, 2024 6:54 am Post subject: |
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ZuikosHexanonsandVivitars wrote:
I managed to find a Nikkor 35mm f1.4 from a seller in Haifa. It´s cosmetic condition is a wee bit questionable, but the price was attractive probably due to that issue and the glass looks actually fine. Only problem so far is that it seems to have been shipped to the other place starting with Austr and I wonder if it will ever arrive here after that little detour to Down Under.
_________________
Cheers, Gerhard |
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Doc Sharptail
Joined: 23 Nov 2020
Posts: 1214
Location: Winnipeg Canada
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| Posted: Thu Jan 04, 2024 9:26 am Post subject: |
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Doc Sharptail wrote:
Good luck with getting it.
-D.S.
_________________
D-810, F2, FTN.
35mm f2 O.C. nikkor
50 f2 H nikkor, 50 f 1.4 AI-s, 135 f3.5 Q,
50 f2 K nikkor 2x, 28-85mm f3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 35-105 3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 200mm f4 Micro A/I, partial list.
"Ain't no half-way" -S.R.V.
"Oh Yeah... Alright" -Paul Simon |
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stevemark
Joined: 29 Apr 2011
Posts: 4082
Location: Switzerland
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| Posted: Thu Jan 04, 2024 11:42 am Post subject: |
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stevemark wrote:
| ZuikosHexanonsandVivitars wrote: |
I managed to find a Nikkor 35mm f1.4 from a seller in Haifa. It´s cosmetic condition is a wee bit questionable, but the price was attractive probably due to that issue and the glass looks actually fine. Only problem so far is that it seems to have been shipped to the other place starting with Austr and I wonder if it will ever arrive here after that little detour to Down Under.
|
That's why I only buy locally. In case the seller ships to that other land starting with "Sw..." I still can hold him/her accountable by visiting him personally ...
S
_________________
www.artaphot.ch |
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kiddo
Joined: 29 Jun 2018
Posts: 1273
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| Posted: Thu Jan 04, 2024 1:14 pm Post subject: |
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kiddo wrote:
I bought this one thinking it would be the 90mm (not good info offered) ,so I have to manage what to do with a 40mm macro |
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calvin83
Joined: 12 Apr 2009
Posts: 7584
Location: Hong Kong
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| Posted: Thu Jan 04, 2024 1:24 pm Post subject: |
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calvin83 wrote:
| kiddo wrote: |
| I bought this one thinking it would be the 90mm (not good info offered) ,so I have to manage what to do with a 40mm macro |
The 40mm looks nice too.
_________________
The best lens is the one you have with you.
https://lensfever.com/
https://www.instagram.com/_lens_fever/ |
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caspert79
Joined: 31 Oct 2010
Posts: 3223
Location: The Netherlands
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| Posted: Thu Jan 04, 2024 1:26 pm Post subject: |
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caspert79 wrote:
Have a SMC Pentax (K) 100/4 macro coming my way.
_________________
For Sale:
Steinheil Auto D Tele Quinar 135mm f/2.8 (Exa)
ISCO Isconar 100mm f/4 (Exa)
Steinheil Cassarit 50mm f/2.8 M39 (Paxette)
I'm always interested in trading lenses! |
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