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Custom bellows flash accessory
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 3:24 pm    Post subject: Custom bellows flash accessory Reply with quote

Flash on a bellows with some lenses can be really difficult. Can't mount a ring flash on a reversed lens, object too close to the lens, etc. Well, here's my $2 solution!

My 30 minute, $2, custom telescoping macro snoot!
Just an easy way to use the sb-800 (or anything else) for macro on a reversed lens and bellows.
This set up is probably in 4-5x catagory..
SB-800 in fp is really not powerful enough for the snoot have to use it in ITTL or manual mode.

This was put togather in a few minutes from some 1/4" foam core. Very light, rigid, cheap and easy to work with. Razor blade, cutting mat and tape where all I needed other than the foam core.

With a few deflectors, milk carton diffuser, etc. over the end I can get pretty soft light on anything from the lens out to about 6"..

Snoot Closed:


Snoot Extended:


snoot off:



Larger images available out here http://www.pbase.com/arlon/snoot


PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You are a crafty guy Arlon. Thanks for sharing this. It will be very useful to others I'm sure. Is this the flash you used for some of the bug shots?


PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 4:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have only used it on some of the very latest shots. I just came up with the solution a few weeks ago when I couldn't get the light where I wanted it.

One suggestion if you use foam core or poster board is to get something with a different outside color. I'm going to spray paint mine camouflage green. The bugs see the white tube coming from a mile away.

I also had a problem with the outsid portion falling off because I made it a hair too big. Solution was to use a push pin throught the snoot to hold it at the length I need it.

It also makes a handy "spot" light with the outside portion off. It just becomes a straight flash tunnel.. Makes for some interesting spot type fill light.

Hope someone else tries this. It has to be the cheapest solution to getting flash out in front of the lens..


PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brilliant idea - now I've got solve the problem of a lack of flashgun (well unless I risk my old vivitar 283). I'm guessing the D200 built in flash wouldn't provide nearly enough illumination to be worth trying...

I wonder whether for a sturdier version you could adapt plastic cable box ducting...


PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brilliant idea - now I've got solve the problem of a lack of flashgun (well unless I risk my old vivitar 283). I'm guessing the D200 built in flash wouldn't provide nearly enough illumination to be worth trying...

I wonder whether for a sturdier version you could adapt plastic cable box ducting...


PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 6:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your vivitar 283 would probably work as well as anything. Those are great little flashes. Just use a little black tape on the lens to control the flash if it's too bright.

Some flashes with manual controls are better but if it just has one power level on a d200, black tape on the front of the flash does a wonderful job of adjusting flash level.

Some flashes with more than just a center pin do funny things when stuck on the nikons. I cover the foot with a strip of black tape and cut out a spot for the center pin. I have a dozen old flashes for various cameras and they all work on the d200. CHECK THE CENTER PIN VOLTAGE on older flashes you plan to use on a dslr. If more than 8volts I wouldn't use it without a wein adapter.


PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 6:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Arlon wrote:
Your vivitar 283 would probably work as well as anything. Those are great little flashes. Just use a little black tape on the lens to control the flash if it's too bright.

Some flashes with manual controls are better but if it just has one power level on a d200, black tape on the front of the flash does a wonderful job of adjusting flash level.

Some flashes with more than just a center pin do funny things when stuck on the nikons. I cover the foot with a strip of black tape and cut out a spot for the center pin. I have a dozen old flashes for various cameras and they all work on the d200. CHECK THE CENTER PIN VOLTAGE on older flashes you plan to use on a dslr. If more than 8volts I wouldn't use it without a wein adapter.


Yes - I need to acquire a voltmeter - the web seems to give a wide range for the 283.


PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 8:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have at least a dozen old flash guns and I use a silver sharpie marker to write the voltage value on the back of the flashes (just so I know they have been checked). I have one I threw away because it was showing 200v at the center pin. Nikon circuit burner for sure. I just didn't want it in the house.

Get a voltmeter at radioshack or Sears for about $10.. Handy little tool.


PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 4:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Arlon wrote:
I have at least a dozen old flash guns and I use a silver sharpie marker to write the voltage value on the back of the flashes (just so I know they have been checked). I have one I threw away because it was showing 200v at the center pin. Nikon circuit burner for sure. I just didn't want it in the house.

Get a voltmeter at radioshack or Sears for about $10.. Handy little tool.


How high a voltage do you use? I thought the D200 would take up to 250 ?


PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 8:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tried to measure the voltage of my flash using a digital voltmeter but I'm having problems. When the flash fires the digital display flickers and then almost instantly returns to zero so I get no reading. Am I doing something wrong?


PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 11:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just turn the flash on, measure the voltage between the center pin and the ground on the side of the hot shoe. Don't flash it. The voltage will be there as long as the flash is powered on. Be sure the flash has new batteries so you get a maximum reading.

I haven't heard that a d200 will take 250v? I was under the impression that nikon limts where in the 10v range. I also have a D50 and D70 and I got that 10v number when I first got the D50. Maybe the D200 is different and maybe I've been operating on bad info.


PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 3:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Arlon wrote:
Just turn the flash on, measure the voltage between the center pin and the ground on the side of the hot shoe. Don't flash it. The voltage will be there as long as the flash is powered on. Be sure the flash has new batteries so you get a maximum reading.

I haven't heard that a d200 will take 250v? I was under the impression that nikon limts where in the 10v range. I also have a D50 and D70 and I got that 10v number when I first got the D50. Maybe the D200 is different and maybe I've been operating on bad info.


http://photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00GJHR

Apparantly it states 250v in the manual - must dig mine out.


PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 12:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It was early to mid Canon digitals that couldn't handle much more than 6~8V - afaik, from the 20D onwards they could take much higher voltages (there have been posts on this before). A succession of people frying their Canons with old flashes gave rise to the rumour that all dSLRs were vulnerable. To the best of my knowledge, Nikons weren't vulnerable at all (up to 240V, that is).
http://dpanswers.com/nikon_flash.html#tv