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hoanpham
Joined: 31 Jan 2011 Posts: 2575
Expire: 2015-01-18
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Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 6:07 am Post subject: Never use micro fiber cloth to clean glass elements |
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hoanpham wrote:
I just destroyed a nice Minolta MC 35/2.8
The lens had minor fungus. Cosmetically very nice.
I disassembled it, clean it, but found a minor chemical remaining on the second element during assembly.
What I did is using a new microfiber cloth to wipe the glass surface. After one stroke, the element becomes matt and useless.
What annoying, after an hour cleaning, almost perfectly, and I just 'wipe out' the whole lens in one stroke. |
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walter g
Joined: 20 Feb 2010 Posts: 2463 Location: NC, USA
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Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 7:16 am Post subject: |
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walter g wrote:
I don't think so. Try cleaning the lens again with something else. I've used microfiber before without any problems.
The kits for cleaning eyeglasses use microfiber cloths. That's what I got mine out of.
The problem is it dosen't do that good a job of removing the cleaning agent. It tends to smear it.
What cleaning agent were you using?
Even if it messed up the coating you can polish the element and still use the lens. _________________
Main cameras
Panasonic G5,Nikon J1,Pentax Q10,Sony Nex 6
Minolta MC W SI 2.5/28, MD 2.8/28, MC W SG 3.5/28, MC Celtic 3.5/28, MC W HG 2.8/35, MD Celtic 2.8/35, QE 4/35, Rokkor X 2/45, MC Rokkor X PG 1.4/50, MC Rokkor X PG 1.7/50, MD Rokkor X 1.7/50, MD 2/50, MC Rokkor PF 1.7/55, MC Rokkor PF 1.9/55, Auto Tele Rokkor PG 2.8/135, MC Tele Rokkor QD 3.5/135, TC 4/135, MC Celtic 4/200, MC Tele Rokkor PE 4.5/200
MD 28-70 f3.5-4.8, MD Macro 35-70 f3.5, Md 70-210 f4, MD Rokkor X 75-200 f4.5, MD 100-200 f5.6
Nikon Nikkor 4/20, O Auto 2/35, S Auto 1.4/50..... Miranda Auto 2.8/28, Auto 2.8/35, Auto 1.4/50, Auto EC 1.4/50, Auto 1.8/50, Auto EC 1.8/50,Auto 1.9/50, Auto 3.5/135
Various Soligor,Sun,Fujita,Komura,Spitatone, etc. Lenses
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hoanpham
Joined: 31 Jan 2011 Posts: 2575
Expire: 2015-01-18
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Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 7:55 am Post subject: |
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hoanpham wrote:
I use the regular lens cleaner fluid.
q-tips can remove some but not all. That's why I use the micro fiber.
but the fiber cloth makes the glass completely matt. I hope you are right if it just spread the chemical.
I have a bottle of eyeglass fluid that I can try again. |
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
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Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 8:13 am Post subject: |
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LucisPictor wrote:
Perhaps it was a combination of both.
I have used microfibre cloth several times and nothing happened. _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
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ChromaticAberration
Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 819 Location: Portugal
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Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 9:31 am Post subject: |
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ChromaticAberration wrote:
LucisPictor wrote: |
Perhaps it was a combination of both.
I have used microfibre cloth several times and nothing happened. |
Amén. _________________ Body: Fujifilm X-E1
Landscapes: Samyang 12mm f/2 NCS CS
Macro: Vivitar Series 1 105mm Æ’/2.5
Portrait: Helios-44 58mm Æ’/2.0
Low-light: SMC Takumar 50mm Æ’/1.4
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a pнoтograpн ιѕ neιтнer тaĸen or ѕeιzed вy ғorce. ιт oғғerѕ ιтѕelғ υp. ιт ιѕ тнe pнoтo тнaт тaĸeѕ yoυ. one мυѕт noт тaĸe pнoтoѕ.†– нenrι carтιer-вreѕѕon |
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hoanpham
Joined: 31 Jan 2011 Posts: 2575
Expire: 2015-01-18
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Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 9:43 am Post subject: |
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hoanpham wrote:
what combination?
regular fluid and fiber cloth? |
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Aanything
Joined: 27 Aug 2011 Posts: 2187 Location: Piacenza, Italy
Expire: 2014-05-30
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Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 9:50 am Post subject: |
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Aanything wrote:
Probably you just spread what you were trying to remove all over the lens, and the cleaning fluid just "helped" this process.
I use microfiber cloth on a regular base to clean lens elements, and never had any problems, as long asy cleaning action remains quite gentle. _________________ C&C and editing of my pics are always welcome
Samples from my lenses
My gear
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hoanpham
Joined: 31 Jan 2011 Posts: 2575
Expire: 2015-01-18
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Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 10:23 am Post subject: |
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hoanpham wrote:
Thanks. That does lit some hope.
what fluid would you recommend to clean glass elements?
I will try the eye glass fluid. |
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Jesito
Joined: 24 Aug 2007 Posts: 5745 Location: Olivella, Catalonia, (Spain)
Expire: 2015-01-07
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Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 10:24 am Post subject: |
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Jesito wrote:
Careful with the microfiber fabric. There are many different kinds.
I have a microfiber pad to polish the car surface.
If you use an abrasive microfiber, for sure it could damage the surface of the lens...
Regards.
Jes. _________________ Jesito, Moderator
Jesito's backsack:
Zooms Sigma 70-300, Tamron 35-135 and 70-210 short, 70-210 long, 28-70 CF Macro, 35-70, 35-80, Vivitar 70-210 KA, Tamron 70-250.
Fixed Industar-50, , Tamron 24mm, Tamron 135mm, Sands Hunter 135mm, Pancolar 50mm, Volna-3, many Exakta lenses
DSLR SIGMA SD9 & SD14, EOS 5D, Sony A700 and NEXF3, Oly E-330, E-400, E-450, E-1
TLR/6x6/645 YashicaMat, Petri 6x45, Nettar, Franka Solida, Brilliant
SLR Minolta X300, Fuji STX II, Praktica VLC3, Pentax P30t, EXA500, EXA 1A, Spotmatic(2), Chinon CM-4S, Ricoh, Contax, Konica TC-X , Minolta 5000, 7000i, 3Sxi, EOS 500 and CX
Rangefinders Chinon 35EE, Konica C35 auto, Canonet 28, Yashica Lynx, FED-2, Yashica electro 35, Argus C3 & C4, Regula Cita III, Voigtlander Vitoret (many), Welta Welti-I, Kodak Signette 35, Zorki-4, Bessa-R & L, Minolta Weathermatic, olympus XA2
Compact Film Konica C35V, Voigtlander Vitorets, Canon Prima Super 105, Olympus XA2 and XA3
Compact Digital Olympus C-5050, Aiptek Slim 3000, Canon Powershot A540, Nikon 5200, SIGMA DP1s, Polaroid X530, IXUS55, Kodak 6490, Powershot G9 and G10
CSCCanon EOS-M, Samsung NX100 and NX210, Lumix G5, NEX-F3
Last edited by Jesito on Thu Aug 09, 2012 10:28 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Jesito
Joined: 24 Aug 2007 Posts: 5745 Location: Olivella, Catalonia, (Spain)
Expire: 2015-01-07
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Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 10:26 am Post subject: |
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Jesito wrote:
hoanpham wrote: |
Thanks. That does lit some hope.
what fluid would you recommend to clean glass elements?
I will try the eye glass fluid. |
Isopropyl alcohol.
Regards.
Jes. _________________ Jesito, Moderator
Jesito's backsack:
Zooms Sigma 70-300, Tamron 35-135 and 70-210 short, 70-210 long, 28-70 CF Macro, 35-70, 35-80, Vivitar 70-210 KA, Tamron 70-250.
Fixed Industar-50, , Tamron 24mm, Tamron 135mm, Sands Hunter 135mm, Pancolar 50mm, Volna-3, many Exakta lenses
DSLR SIGMA SD9 & SD14, EOS 5D, Sony A700 and NEXF3, Oly E-330, E-400, E-450, E-1
TLR/6x6/645 YashicaMat, Petri 6x45, Nettar, Franka Solida, Brilliant
SLR Minolta X300, Fuji STX II, Praktica VLC3, Pentax P30t, EXA500, EXA 1A, Spotmatic(2), Chinon CM-4S, Ricoh, Contax, Konica TC-X , Minolta 5000, 7000i, 3Sxi, EOS 500 and CX
Rangefinders Chinon 35EE, Konica C35 auto, Canonet 28, Yashica Lynx, FED-2, Yashica electro 35, Argus C3 & C4, Regula Cita III, Voigtlander Vitoret (many), Welta Welti-I, Kodak Signette 35, Zorki-4, Bessa-R & L, Minolta Weathermatic, olympus XA2
Compact Film Konica C35V, Voigtlander Vitorets, Canon Prima Super 105, Olympus XA2 and XA3
Compact Digital Olympus C-5050, Aiptek Slim 3000, Canon Powershot A540, Nikon 5200, SIGMA DP1s, Polaroid X530, IXUS55, Kodak 6490, Powershot G9 and G10
CSCCanon EOS-M, Samsung NX100 and NX210, Lumix G5, NEX-F3 |
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hoanpham
Joined: 31 Jan 2011 Posts: 2575
Expire: 2015-01-18
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Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 11:13 am Post subject: |
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hoanpham wrote:
Thanks Jes,
I will try it later.
One more thing:
The blades has tiny oil on it. Which fluid can I use to dissolve/wash the oil? |
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Aanything
Joined: 27 Aug 2011 Posts: 2187 Location: Piacenza, Italy
Expire: 2014-05-30
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Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 11:51 am Post subject: |
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Aanything wrote:
Lighter fluid On a qtip is what I usually do _________________ C&C and editing of my pics are always welcome
Samples from my lenses
My gear
My Flickr |
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Jesito
Joined: 24 Aug 2007 Posts: 5745 Location: Olivella, Catalonia, (Spain)
Expire: 2015-01-07
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Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 6:58 pm Post subject: |
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Jesito wrote:
Aanything wrote: |
Lighter fluid On a qtip is what I usually do |
Yas, both ligther fluid and Isopropylic alcohol work well.
Jes. _________________ Jesito, Moderator
Jesito's backsack:
Zooms Sigma 70-300, Tamron 35-135 and 70-210 short, 70-210 long, 28-70 CF Macro, 35-70, 35-80, Vivitar 70-210 KA, Tamron 70-250.
Fixed Industar-50, , Tamron 24mm, Tamron 135mm, Sands Hunter 135mm, Pancolar 50mm, Volna-3, many Exakta lenses
DSLR SIGMA SD9 & SD14, EOS 5D, Sony A700 and NEXF3, Oly E-330, E-400, E-450, E-1
TLR/6x6/645 YashicaMat, Petri 6x45, Nettar, Franka Solida, Brilliant
SLR Minolta X300, Fuji STX II, Praktica VLC3, Pentax P30t, EXA500, EXA 1A, Spotmatic(2), Chinon CM-4S, Ricoh, Contax, Konica TC-X , Minolta 5000, 7000i, 3Sxi, EOS 500 and CX
Rangefinders Chinon 35EE, Konica C35 auto, Canonet 28, Yashica Lynx, FED-2, Yashica electro 35, Argus C3 & C4, Regula Cita III, Voigtlander Vitoret (many), Welta Welti-I, Kodak Signette 35, Zorki-4, Bessa-R & L, Minolta Weathermatic, olympus XA2
Compact Film Konica C35V, Voigtlander Vitorets, Canon Prima Super 105, Olympus XA2 and XA3
Compact Digital Olympus C-5050, Aiptek Slim 3000, Canon Powershot A540, Nikon 5200, SIGMA DP1s, Polaroid X530, IXUS55, Kodak 6490, Powershot G9 and G10
CSCCanon EOS-M, Samsung NX100 and NX210, Lumix G5, NEX-F3 |
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Aanything
Joined: 27 Aug 2011 Posts: 2187 Location: Piacenza, Italy
Expire: 2014-05-30
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Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 7:04 pm Post subject: |
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Aanything wrote:
Jesito wrote: |
Aanything wrote: |
Lighter fluid On a qtip is what I usually do |
Yas, both ligther fluid and Isopropylic alcohol work well.
Jes. |
I usually use diluited isopropyl alcohol for glass, and lighter fluid for oily stuff on blades or helicoid or so _________________ C&C and editing of my pics are always welcome
Samples from my lenses
My gear
My Flickr |
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miran
Joined: 01 Aug 2012 Posts: 1364 Location: Slovenia
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Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 7:11 pm Post subject: |
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miran wrote:
I just wiped the front element of a lens with a new microfibre cloth and... it didn't explode! |
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hoanpham
Joined: 31 Jan 2011 Posts: 2575
Expire: 2015-01-18
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Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 6:54 am Post subject: |
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hoanpham wrote:
Update:
OK. I spent 2-3 hrs try to clean the element again. Starting to gain confident regarding lens dis/re-assembling, at least this model.
The bottom line is second element has many scratches that flares badly. The last attempt makes the element look cleaner, but still not able to save the lens as before.
The microfiber cloth I use was for eyeglasses, never had a such problem before, and I had been cleaned front and rear elements, no problem. I guess the inner glass element is very soft and therefore very easy to make scratches. Still the other glass elements are fine, so this lens can still used as part.
Regarding the chemicals,
Lens cleaner fluid as I used before does make a coating on the surface. The scratches spread it more and somehow make it glued as a matt coating. Eyeglass fluid (for plastic glass), with many drops, does remove this coating with many q-tips. After 2-3 times I can see the glass is clear. Scratches becomes more clearly, glass condition: bad.
Water is very good to clean remaining.
I also use pure etanol 100% lab quality, no water, no fat - very effective to fat/oil, dries fast, easy to wipe.
Lighter fluid dries too fast for me, but seems to have the same effect.
The lens had fungus before, oil on blades, optical pretty bad shape - I almost able to save it. Got for free anyway.
To make the element less flare, I added a thin coating of syntetic oil to fill the scratches. The lens becomes now a soft 35mm lens.
Haven't try it yet, but soon.
Thanks everybody. |
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Jesito
Joined: 24 Aug 2007 Posts: 5745 Location: Olivella, Catalonia, (Spain)
Expire: 2015-01-07
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Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 7:52 am Post subject: |
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Jesito wrote:
Thanks for the update, we look forward for samples of the lens and with the lens
Jes. _________________ Jesito, Moderator
Jesito's backsack:
Zooms Sigma 70-300, Tamron 35-135 and 70-210 short, 70-210 long, 28-70 CF Macro, 35-70, 35-80, Vivitar 70-210 KA, Tamron 70-250.
Fixed Industar-50, , Tamron 24mm, Tamron 135mm, Sands Hunter 135mm, Pancolar 50mm, Volna-3, many Exakta lenses
DSLR SIGMA SD9 & SD14, EOS 5D, Sony A700 and NEXF3, Oly E-330, E-400, E-450, E-1
TLR/6x6/645 YashicaMat, Petri 6x45, Nettar, Franka Solida, Brilliant
SLR Minolta X300, Fuji STX II, Praktica VLC3, Pentax P30t, EXA500, EXA 1A, Spotmatic(2), Chinon CM-4S, Ricoh, Contax, Konica TC-X , Minolta 5000, 7000i, 3Sxi, EOS 500 and CX
Rangefinders Chinon 35EE, Konica C35 auto, Canonet 28, Yashica Lynx, FED-2, Yashica electro 35, Argus C3 & C4, Regula Cita III, Voigtlander Vitoret (many), Welta Welti-I, Kodak Signette 35, Zorki-4, Bessa-R & L, Minolta Weathermatic, olympus XA2
Compact Film Konica C35V, Voigtlander Vitorets, Canon Prima Super 105, Olympus XA2 and XA3
Compact Digital Olympus C-5050, Aiptek Slim 3000, Canon Powershot A540, Nikon 5200, SIGMA DP1s, Polaroid X530, IXUS55, Kodak 6490, Powershot G9 and G10
CSCCanon EOS-M, Samsung NX100 and NX210, Lumix G5, NEX-F3 |
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fotkino
Joined: 04 May 2011 Posts: 111 Location: Russia, Moscow
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Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 9:16 am Post subject: Re: Never use micro fiber cloth to clean glass elements |
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fotkino wrote:
hoanpham wrote: |
I just destroyed a nice Minolta MC 35/2.8 |
I have little experience in cleaning fungus on lenses, I want to note that the fungus has a hard shell which is the main component - chitin.
If you start to wipe dry fungus - is comparable to cleaning lenses with sand.
Is first necessary to dissolve the chitin armor of fungus, the best way to do this - human saliva/slabber (even better dog.)
It contains a component which is great dissolving chitin.
Spit on the lens - wait 5-15 minutes and wipe.
To the fungus will not grow - lens should educate UV light source, it will kill the fungus.
Check out this link http://markellov.livejournal.com/60109.html
With the help of this guide, I have cured two lenses with no loss.
It is also possible to use chemicals (antifungal medicines) but the best was the saliva/slabber.
But sometimes, the fungus destroys the coating, and even if you kill him, dissolve, wipe - may remain visible traces.
Good luck! _________________ _____________________________________
Sorry for my English |
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hoanpham
Joined: 31 Jan 2011 Posts: 2575
Expire: 2015-01-18
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Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 9:27 am Post subject: |
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hoanpham wrote:
Thanks for that info.
I didn't wait, nor use any fungus disolve fluid. I just wipe off the fungus with q-tips and lens cleaner fluid.
When most of them gone, I use the fiber cloth. First stroke make the element matt. As I mentioned, I never experienced *this* before. The feeling is like being turn down at the first date This glass element must be very soft. |
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dnas
Joined: 14 Nov 2008 Posts: 488 Location: Japan
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Posted: Sun Aug 12, 2012 11:19 pm Post subject: |
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dnas wrote:
I use disposable lens cleaning paper when cleaning lenses while it is wet with the cleaning agent/fluid. When it is dry, I then use the micro fibre cloth. The micro fibre cloth tends to spread the residual fluid across the lens and not remove it.
Sometimes when some of the fluid dries on the lens surface, you can't remove it with the micro fibre cloth. In this case, breathe gently on the lens surface, then wipe before the the "mist" clears. This lubricates the surface with just enough vapour to allow you to remove the residue. |
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JohnBar
Joined: 21 Jun 2012 Posts: 581 Location: Liverpool
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Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 4:04 pm Post subject: |
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JohnBar wrote:
I use chamois leather & lighter fuel
sometimes you have to boil the chamois first in washing soda to rid the tanning oil
this was the method used by the ancients........... _________________ Rectilux 3FF Series single focus anamorphic attachments
http://www.transferconvert.co.uk/cinemania/rectilux-3ff.html
Regular News on https://www.facebook.com/pages/Rectilux/704770636267200 |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 6:54 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
walter g wrote: |
I don't think so. Try cleaning the lens again with something else. I've used microfiber before without any problems.
The kits for cleaning eyeglasses use microfiber cloths. That's what I got mine out of.
The problem is it dosen't do that good a job of removing the cleaning agent. It tends to smear it.
What cleaning agent were you using?
Even if it messed up the coating you can polish the element and still use the lens. |
+1 _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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SkedAddled
Joined: 19 Oct 2008 Posts: 1443 Location: Michigan, USA
Expire: 2021-08-12
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Posted: Sun Sep 09, 2012 3:54 am Post subject: |
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SkedAddled wrote:
The Microfiber/microfibre/micro(whatever) cloths are, to me, worthless.
They are expensive for what they offer, and they don't do the job well enough
to be classified as useful, as they need to be washed carefully after every
second use or so. The cheap ones just smear junk around, while the more costly ones
do nothing more than the cheap ones advertise.
Most of them are far too thin to keep abrasive materials away from the surface
being cleaned, and my own experience has been that such cleaning cloths will
do no more than smear greasy spots around. I wear eyeglasses, and these
issues have come up time and time again when cleaning my glasses.
I go to my local department/discount store, to the paint section, where I can find
a bag of clean pure-cotton rags for just a dollar or two.
They are normally prewashed, soft, and absorbent. I can use these rags
until the cows come home, then throw them in the wash with the rest of my laundry,
and because I don't use 'fabric softeners' and such, they are even more soft
and absorbent each time they are laundered.
This cheap solution of clean all-cotton rags beats out the 'microfiber' option every time. _________________ Craig
Of course I'm all right! Why? What have you heard!?
Canon Digital EOS 5D Mk IV, EOS 50D, Powershot S3 iS
Vivitar 28 f/2.8 OM - Zuiko 50 f/1.8 OM - Tamron SP 28-80 f/3.5 AD2[Favorite!] - Hanimar 135 f/3.5 M42 - Soligor 135 f/2.8 T4 - Tamron SP 60-300 f/3.8 AD2 - Soligor 75-260 f/4.5 M42 - Soligor 400 f/6.3 T4 - Soligor 500 f/8 T2 Cat + Matched 2X TC - Addiction Growing!
This is us -- We drive these -- We're named these |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 11061 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Sun Sep 09, 2012 1:22 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Dust-free "Kim-Wipes" are available in different sizes for use in clean rooms and laboratories. These are like paper towels, softer, but dust free. I use these for general cleaning. A new clean Kim-wipe can be used for lens cleaning, once.
Micro-fiber Cloths are meant for general cleaning, not for lenses. After first use, they become contaminated with dust and grime, should never be used to clean glass surface as the dust can scratch. Laundering does not remove all abrasive dust -- the micro-fiibers hold dust too well.
A clean new micro-fiber cloth is far too soft to scratch glass. I use a new clean Pec-Pad every time, for every wipe of lens. Pec-Pad are disposable 4"x4" pieces of micro-fiber cloth, made to use once and dispose. The micro-fibers pick up dust and grime. Some dust is abrasive, therefore pads should only be used once on lenses. I keep the Pec-pads used once on lenses for general cleaning of non-lens parts. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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kds315*
Joined: 12 Mar 2008 Posts: 16664 Location: Weinheim, Germany
Expire: 2021-03-09
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Posted: Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:49 pm Post subject: |
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kds315* wrote:
I ALWAYS use microfiber cloth to clean my lenses, never had any issues.
Hard stuff I remove with ZEISS cleaner fluid dripped on a cloth corner
and then wiped dry with a dry part of it. Works flawless (if you wash it
from time to time). _________________ Klaus - Admin
"S'il vient a point, me souviendra" [Thomas Bohier (1460-1523)]
http://www.macrolenses.de for macro and special lens info
http://www.pbase.com/kds315/uv_photos for UV Images and lens/filter info
https://www.flickr.com/photos/kds315/albums my albums using various lenses
http://photographyoftheinvisibleworld.blogspot.com/ my UV BLOG
http://www.travelmeetsfood.com/blog Food + Travel BLOG
https://galeriafotografia.com Architecture + Drone photography
Currently most FAV lens(es):
X80QF f3.2/80mm
Hypergon f11/26mm
ELCAN UV f5.6/52mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f4/60mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f2/62mm
Lomo Уфар-12 f2.5/41mm
Lomo Зуфар-2 f4.0/350mm
Lomo ZIKAR-1A f1.2/100mm
Nikon UV Nikkor f4.5/105mm
Zeiss UV-Sonnar f4.3/105mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f1.8/45mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f4.1/94mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f2.8/100mm
Steinheil Quarzobjektiv f1.8/50mm
Pentax Quartz Takumar f3.5/85mm
Carl Zeiss Jena UV-Objektiv f4/60mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha II f1.1/90mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha I f2.8/200mm
COASTAL OPTICS f4/60mm UV-VIS-IR Apo
COASTAL OPTICS f4.5/105mm UV-Micro-Apo
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f4.5/85mm
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f5.6/300mm
Rodenstock UV-Rodagon f5.6/60mm + 105mm + 150mm
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