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Icy Trees
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 8:28 am    Post subject: Icy Trees Reply with quote
Pano with SMC K 28/2.0

7 portrait format frames @f9 ISO 100







Cheers
Tobias


PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 8:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Very nice. You're living in a fabulous countryside Wink

I note your tip of using portraits for stitching though. This will help the final aspect of my panos Wink


PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 10:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Quote:
I note your tip of using portraits for stitching though. This will help the final aspect of my panos



For "long" panos (like this one) portrait format frames are very useful indeed.


Cheers
Tobias


PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Yes, I didn't think about it Wink

I have some questions then, more for landscape photography (i.e. still subjects):
- what do I gain or lose by stitching over using an ultra-wide lens (considering the same angle of view)? Do I get better optics (e.g. less distortion, increased sharpness)? Or maybe better optics for cheap Wink ?
- considering stitching, what would be the best focal length (on crop body...)? I see you use various ones, what would you recommend, or what are the main differences?


PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 7:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Quote:
I have some questions then, more for landscape photography (i.e. still subjects):
- what do I gain or lose by stitching over using an ultra-wide lens (considering the same angle of view)? Do I get better optics (e.g. less distortion, increased sharpness)? Or maybe better optics for cheap Wink ?
- considering stitching, what would be the best focal length (on crop body...)? I see you use various ones, what would you recommend, or what are the main differences?



By using an ultrawide lens you gain:
- your final pano needs less frames, so stiching process becomes faster
- you can catch wider scenes more easily

you loose:
- of course lots of detail/resolution:
if you would have stiched the same scene with a 85mm lens instead of a 20mm lens you of course get many times more pixels, so also
larger files.

I would say in general:
- Think before you make a pano what you want to achieve with it:

If you want to make a largescale print e.g. 300cm X 80 cm, you need some 100 megapixels if you want to print with 300dpi and you choose a lens where you can fullfill your needs.

If you just show a web-photo you don't need as much pixels and you choose for a wider lens, if it still fits in your concept of composition.

Because choosing the sice of the lens also determins the final outcome of composition.

For a beginning panorama-photograph I would recomand a 35mm lens for first (if you have a crop sensor). It gives a very natural output without much distortions.


Hope I could help a bit, but please ask further I you have more questions


Cheers
Tobias


PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Such a beauty landscape, very well done!


PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Thanks! But OK, I realize my question was unclear, let me rephrase it Smile for proper landscape photography, I'd have to look for an ultra-wide lens, or at least wider than what I have (28mm today, I'd like to go down to 24 or even 20 - a flek 20 for example), and these are not cheap.
My question is the following: to obtain the same image with a 35 mm lens (for example, but that's the one you advise and the one I thought about I must say), I'd need to stitch a couple of photos. Regarding the end result (forget the additional pixels and the stitching process, consider viewing the image on-screen or on-paper, let's say A4 format), what would be the differences? I know, you'll tell me that this will vary based on lens, etc. I just want to understand if there is a significant gain or loss in terms of IQ on one or the other method.
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