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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 8:14 am Post subject: Rodinal and agitation |
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Orio wrote:
I have found online the developing times for Agfapan 100.
However there is no indication about how many agitations.
I am going to use Rodinal.
Do you have any idea?
With T-Max it would have been agitation every 30 seconds. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
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Jieffe
Joined: 04 Nov 2007 Posts: 754 Location: Belgium
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Posted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 8:36 am Post subject: |
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Jieffe wrote:
For every B&W film I developped, same agitation :
after pouring the chemicals, I shake the tank for 10 seconds, a few gentle taps on the bottom to remove eventual air bubbles and then I flip the tank twice every 30 seconds. This way, the developper is renewed on the film surface.
Don't keep the tank in you hands between agitations because it will raise the liquid temperature. |
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martinsmith99
Joined: 31 Aug 2008 Posts: 6950 Location: S Glos, UK
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 9:12 am Post subject: |
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martinsmith99 wrote:
I've started experimenting with Rodinal and so far I'm impressed with it. Using 400iso, I get grain, but not excessive.
Dilution 1:50, 30 secs worth of slow inversions to start, followed by 2 inversions every 30 secs. I may cut this down to 60 secs to reduce contrast. _________________ Casual attendance these days |
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hexi
Joined: 01 Jul 2009 Posts: 1631 Location: France
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 4:28 pm Post subject: |
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hexi wrote:
The best is to use the "Agfa" method as a test : 1 minute continous agitation, then once every 30 seconds. _________________ Happy owner and user of :
SLR's > Contax Aria - RX
DSLR > Canon 5D
Lenses : C/Y Planar 1.4/50 - Distagon 2.8/35 - Planar 1.4/85
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sonnar85 |
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kds315*
Joined: 12 Mar 2008 Posts: 16652 Location: Weinheim, Germany
Expire: 2021-03-09
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Posted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 4:33 pm Post subject: |
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kds315* wrote:
+1; used to do same years ago using that developper. _________________ Klaus - Admin
"S'il vient a point, me souviendra" [Thomas Bohier (1460-1523)]
http://www.macrolenses.de for macro and special lens info
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https://www.flickr.com/photos/kds315/albums my albums using various lenses
http://photographyoftheinvisibleworld.blogspot.com/ my UV BLOG
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Currently most FAV lens(es):
X80QF f3.2/80mm
Hypergon f11/26mm
ELCAN UV f5.6/52mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f4/60mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f2/62mm
Lomo Уфар-12 f2.5/41mm
Lomo Зуфар-2 f4.0/350mm
Lomo ZIKAR-1A f1.2/100mm
Nikon UV Nikkor f4.5/105mm
Zeiss UV-Sonnar f4.3/105mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f1.8/45mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f4.1/94mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f2.8/100mm
Steinheil Quarzobjektiv f1.8/50mm
Pentax Quartz Takumar f3.5/85mm
Carl Zeiss Jena UV-Objektiv f4/60mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha II f1.1/90mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha I f2.8/200mm
COASTAL OPTICS f4/60mm UV-VIS-IR Apo
COASTAL OPTICS f4.5/105mm UV-Micro-Apo
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f4.5/85mm
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f5.6/300mm
Rodenstock UV-Rodagon f5.6/60mm + 105mm + 150mm
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F16SUNSHINE
Joined: 20 Aug 2007 Posts: 5486 Location: Left Coast
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 7:14 pm Post subject: |
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F16SUNSHINE wrote:
hexi wrote: |
The best is to use the "Agfa" method as a test : 1 minute continous agitation, then once every 30 seconds. |
+1
1 minute continuos
10 sec every 30 seconds until finished
These times for standard development only.
Less agitations to slow highlights burning out when exposures were in "hot" lighting. _________________ Moderator |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 7:54 pm Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
Thank you guys!
I will then follow the main road
10 seconds every 30 seconds means 10+20+10+20 (simpler)... or 10+30+10+30 ? _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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hexi
Joined: 01 Jul 2009 Posts: 1631 Location: France
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 7:58 pm Post subject: |
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hexi wrote:
It means 4 agitations... i don't understand your 10-30 :s _________________ Happy owner and user of :
SLR's > Contax Aria - RX
DSLR > Canon 5D
Lenses : C/Y Planar 1.4/50 - Distagon 2.8/35 - Planar 1.4/85
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sonnar85 |
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marty
Joined: 09 Apr 2009 Posts: 767 Location: Italy
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Posted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 8:01 pm Post subject: |
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marty wrote:
My method has been since ever 30" continuous rotation (my tank is engineered that way) in the beginning then 5" every 30" until the expiration of development time. No matter which film or developer, unless I need something special. That said I think the most important thing is to get even development thorough the whole film, the agitation has to ensure to keep continuously fresh developer all along the film emulsion. As long as this is fulfilled everything will be ok. So my advice is just to pick up one method from the ones suggested, they are tested and will ensure even development.
This will make a starting point: upon your taste you'll want then to change it the next session. If you like more contrast you increase the agitation time, if you want less you decrease it. As you may have understood it's just a matter of experimentation (it' s part of the fun IMO).
Cheers, Marty. _________________ Canon FD
Bodies: AT-1, A-1, T-90
Lenses: nFD 20mm f2.8, 24 f2.8, 28 f2.8, 35 f2, FD 50 f1.8 S.C., 85 f1.8, 100 f2.8, 135 f2.8, 200 f4, 300 f4
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F16SUNSHINE
Joined: 20 Aug 2007 Posts: 5486 Location: Left Coast
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 8:08 pm Post subject: |
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F16SUNSHINE wrote:
As Marty says adapt to your own.
The question of times for me is 30 secs then 10 agitate.
I use a rotary twist thingy that spins the spools in my patterson tank.
Spin clockwise then counterclockwise ten times.
Highlights develop and "use up" the developer faster than shadows.
If my highlights are suspected to be too hot.
I spin less or less often to introduce less fresh developer to those areas.
Like doing a minus development only for the highlights.
The shadows get more time to bring up some density. _________________ Moderator |
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marty
Joined: 09 Apr 2009 Posts: 767 Location: Italy
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Posted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 8:09 pm Post subject: |
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marty wrote:
Orio wrote: |
10 seconds every 30 seconds means 10+20+10+20 (simpler)... or 10+30+10+30 ? |
You agitate 10" you wait 30" then agitate for 10" again. Until the development time expires. Simple as that.
Cheers, Marty. _________________ Canon FD
Bodies: AT-1, A-1, T-90
Lenses: nFD 20mm f2.8, 24 f2.8, 28 f2.8, 35 f2, FD 50 f1.8 S.C., 85 f1.8, 100 f2.8, 135 f2.8, 200 f4, 300 f4
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Penumbra
Joined: 06 Sep 2010 Posts: 10
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Posted: Sat Sep 11, 2010 1:47 pm Post subject: |
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Penumbra wrote:
Experiment/try this method:
Discard (and save) the developer in a jar, pour water in the tank and let it sit for a minute, discard the water continue with the saved developer. Repeat, and keep the total development time as recommended.
Interesting results, especially for the shadows where the developer is not exhausted and still works while highly diluted.
It used to be so much fun... and sometimes... disasters. |
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