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Best lens(es) for m43/EP1 camera? Super Takumar, Leica-R etc
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 5:17 pm    Post subject: Best lens(es) for m43/EP1 camera? Super Takumar, Leica-R etc Reply with quote

I am just getting into MF on my m43/EP1 camera. I'm trying some Super Takumar lenses, but if I wanted to step up my game, it sounds like I should look at these "R lenses" (I don't understand all the mounts yet).

What other lenses besides the one in this thread would be worth pursuing? Because the m43 has a crop factor of 2X, I'm looking at near to 25mm, 50mm and 100mm. Any recommendations in this same lens line to look for?


PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 5:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I split that into a new topic, since many others might be interested in that topic!


PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 7:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have the Lumix GF1 and have also been looking at suitable high quality lenses. Most, if not all Leica lenses are out my price range so i looked at voigtlander nokton lenses which look awesome and are high quality. I was going to get the 40mm f1.4 classic and i missed it on the bay as it went for just over £300. These are rangefinder lenses and are a lot smaller than the usual lenses like Zeiss and Taks although Taks ar a nice size for the EP1 and GF1.

I ended up buying a Voigtlander Ultron 35mm f1.7 mint (apparently) for £180 which i thought was a bargain! They are only £300 new so not bank breaking. I searched on Flickr for image examples and found them to be spot on!!

Some Canon FD lenses are very good but they do look huge on the 4/3 system.


PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Advice to start on MF -

Before starting on a hunt for premium lenses, try some cheap ones, $10 lenses, and see where they limit you if at all. A lot of the good samples are the result of good technique by good photographers and not really the lens. Good photographers often have good lenses, but the causation is backwards.

On a small 4/3 sensor also you are using the center sweet spot of many lenses and also missing the real benefits of some of the expensive ones.


PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 8:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very valid points there above!

I have used MF lenses for about 8 months and they do make you think about what you are doing which makes it more fun for me.

I found images examples of the lens i have just bought on a GF1 before i went ahead and purchased it.


PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 11:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the thoughts. Maybe I will just stick with what I have. I already have a super tak 50mm 1.4, and have just purchased (in the mail now) two more super taks: 100 f4 and 28mm f3.5.

You might have a good point with the sweet spot on the m43. I also have a 5D, so I suppose I should try framing with both bodies to see the lens differences (just for kicks).

Glad I found the MF Lenses forum!


PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 2:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's one other thing ot take into account. Newer lenses have the "digital" lens coatings on the BACK elements, because the sensor is very reflective, and light can reflect off the sensor, then off the rear lens element, and then back onto the sensor again.

I've noticed that with older lenses without the "digital" lens coatings on the BACK elements, you can get "ghosting" or a "halo".

This is MORE evident on larger aperture lenses, in high contrast situations. I'd say that any older lens with an aperture of larger than maybe F1.6, shows this "ghosting" or a "halo".

Here's the overall scene, taken with a Minolta MD Rokkor 50mm F1.4 :





Here is the crop taken at F2.0






Here is the crop at F1.4






You can see with the F1.4, that although there's a "halo" or "ghost", it's in focus, because you can see the detail on the ball chain.



Invariably, when I use a fast lens like this(including a lot of different lenses) , when it's wide open(F1.4) with a big difference in contrast, I get this halo. When stopped down to F2.0, it's pretty much completely gone, as you can see. And I don't tend to get this with any F1.8 - F2.0 lens I have.

~~~~~~~~~

Anyway, as for good, cheap lenses for micro 4/3, I'd suggest:

Minolta MC Rokkor 58mm F1.4
Minolta MD Rokkor 85mm F2
Olympus Auto-S 50mm F1.8
Pentax Takumar 50mm SMC F1.4
Konica Hexanon 50mm F1.7
Canon FD 50mm S.S.C F1.4
Tamron SP 90mm F2.5 (wide open)
Tokina AT-X SD 80-200mm F2.8


PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 4:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you Thank you Thank you for posting that last reply.

I am using my super tak 50 1.4, and while I've been very pleased with even lighting shots, I've been getting this ghosting in high contrast shots. I had no idea what it was, and I was beginning to think the lens was somehow defective. This was a great point to understand. Thanks!


PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 7:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 28mm f3.5 is a great great lens!!! You will get good results with that one! Thats not to say the others aren't good because they are it's just that i have had and have seen many many great results with that lens.


PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 7:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i like the looking of GF1 anf EP1, however I am not that happy with focal length thing as you have to time 2, therefore you dont have any wide angles. Otherwise I will get it straight away.


PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 9:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

look at this thread, here are some samples. If I have a little bit more time I will add some additional samples.

http://forum.mflenses.com/panasonic-g1-t20948.html

In general Konica Hexanons are very well too and at the moment not so expensive.

Pls use the search function here, you will find some other samples with different lenses on m4/3 cams.

Wink


PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 11:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

qqbingbing wrote:
i like the looking of GF1 anf EP1, however I am not that happy with focal length thing as you have to time 2, therefore you dont have any wide angles. Otherwise I will get it straight away.


I suppose it's depending on what you want to shoot. I agree the wide angle is hard to cover, but a 50mm Super tak is now 100mm FOV in a very small body, and the Minimum focus distance is such that it puts a nice magnification on the sensor. But yes, wide angle is lacking.


PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 11:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Voigtlander do a 12mm wide angle lens which will equate to 24mm. Great lens which is on my shopping list!


PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 12:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dnas wrote:

Invariably, when I use a fast lens like this(including a lot of different lenses) , when it's wide open(F1.4) with a big difference in contrast, I get this halo. When stopped down to F2.0, it's pretty much completely gone, as you can see. And I don't tend to get this with any F1.8 - F2.0 lens I have.


Sensor reflections might cause loss of contrast, but are not responsible of those halos.
What you see and describe is the result of spherical aberration, and you see it in very fast lenses because these are the most difficult to be corrected. And with them, you are noticing the effect wide open and not stopped down because the spherical aberration affects mostly the edges of the lens.