View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
youngcoby
Joined: 02 Oct 2009 Posts: 43 Location: Antwerp, Belgium
Expire: 2013-12-18
|
Posted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 9:58 pm Post subject: Starting lens repairs: how to |
|
|
youngcoby wrote:
As the winter is coming up, I think the best way to spend the long cold evenings with some lens repairs.
What (specialized) tools do you need for this? I've read about
- spanner wrench
- rubber name plate removers
- lens suction cups
Something else?
Which ones can I buy here on the forum?
Are there general rules to follow which are more or less the same for all lenses or not?
I really would like to repair (or have repaired) a Takumar 150/4.0 (fungus), Yashica ML 135 (fungus), Kiron 28/2.8 (aperture stuck), Zeiss Tele Tessar 135/4.0 (aperture stuck)
Anyone experience with one of these?
Thanks,
Filip _________________
Digital cams: Pentax K5, Pentax K200D, Canon 10D (mf), Nikon D80 (af), Olympus SP570UZ, Olympus C70 (C7000)
Takumar: 24/3.5 - 28/3.5 - 35/3.5 - 50/1.4 - 55/1.8 - 85/1.9 - 105/2.8 - 135/2.5 - 135/3.5 - 200/4.0
Carl Zeiss T*: Distagon 28/2.8 MM - Tessar 45/2.8 MM - Planar 100/2 MM - Sonnar 40-80/3.5 AE
Jupiter: 37A - Meyer Orestegor 200/4.0
Coming up for sale:
Leica R: Summicron 35/2 - Summicron 50/2 - Elmarit 135/2.8 - Elmarit 180/2.8
C/Y Carl Zeiss T*: Distagon 35/2.8 AE - Planar 50/1.4 AE - Planar 50/1.7 MM - Sonnar 135/2.8 MM - Sonnar 180/2.8 AE
C/Y Yashica ML: 24/2.8 - 28/2.8 - 35/2.8 - 50/1.4 - 50/1.7 - 50/1.9 - 50/2.0 - 55/2.8 (macro) - 55/4.0 (macro) - 135/2.8 - 200/4.0 - 300/5.6 - 80-200/4.0
C/Y Kiron: 105/2.8 (macro) - 28-210/4-5.6 zoom; Tokina: 80-200/4.0
M42: Jupiter: 9 - 11A - 21M; Helios: 44-4; Mir: 1b; Mamiya SX: 35/2.8 - 50/2.0 - 55/1.8 - 135/2.8; Petri: 28/2.8
Nikon: 24/2.8 - 28/3.5 - 105/2.5 - Vivitar: 100/3.5 macro
QBM Rollei: 50/1.8 - Sonnar 85/2.8;
Minolta: 50/1.7 - Vivitar: 28/2.8 Close focus
Tamron Adaptall: 300/5.6;
P6: Volna 3 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Arkku
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 1416 Location: Helsinki, Finland
|
Posted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:34 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Arkku wrote:
I haven't used any of the special tools you listed; for a spanner wrench I use a calliper measure and makeshift tools for rubber plate removers. Suction cups I've never felt the need for.
However, one very, very important thing to have is a set of high quality screwdrivers. Poor quality screwdrivers work up to a point, but they can also break the tiny, old screws, and it may be impossible to get some of the glued screws open unless you have the proper size of screwdriver and the capability to apply enough pressure.
Some general tips:
- work on a soft surface; sometimes little parts (especially ball-bearings) fall out and you don't want them to roll away
- sometimes you have to disassemble more before you can reassemble
- if some step seems to require impossible amounts of skill or dexterity, it's probably not the right thing to do—there must be some trick how the assembly workers could put the lens together; it's highly unlikely that they all had superhuman dexterity
- take pictures as you go along, e.g. with a point and shoot digital
- if something comes off, mark the position (e.g. take a picture if possible, otherwise draw a line with a pencil or put some sticky tape on)—many pieces look rotationally symmetric but aren't |
|
Back to top |
|
|
youngcoby
Joined: 02 Oct 2009 Posts: 43 Location: Antwerp, Belgium
Expire: 2013-12-18
|
Posted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:43 pm Post subject: |
|
|
youngcoby wrote:
Thanks Arkku for the tips.
I have found a topic where I got redirected to the instructions how you changed the mount of a Minolta. I only took a quick look, but undoubtedly will frequent the pages some more times. _________________
Digital cams: Pentax K5, Pentax K200D, Canon 10D (mf), Nikon D80 (af), Olympus SP570UZ, Olympus C70 (C7000)
Takumar: 24/3.5 - 28/3.5 - 35/3.5 - 50/1.4 - 55/1.8 - 85/1.9 - 105/2.8 - 135/2.5 - 135/3.5 - 200/4.0
Carl Zeiss T*: Distagon 28/2.8 MM - Tessar 45/2.8 MM - Planar 100/2 MM - Sonnar 40-80/3.5 AE
Jupiter: 37A - Meyer Orestegor 200/4.0
Coming up for sale:
Leica R: Summicron 35/2 - Summicron 50/2 - Elmarit 135/2.8 - Elmarit 180/2.8
C/Y Carl Zeiss T*: Distagon 35/2.8 AE - Planar 50/1.4 AE - Planar 50/1.7 MM - Sonnar 135/2.8 MM - Sonnar 180/2.8 AE
C/Y Yashica ML: 24/2.8 - 28/2.8 - 35/2.8 - 50/1.4 - 50/1.7 - 50/1.9 - 50/2.0 - 55/2.8 (macro) - 55/4.0 (macro) - 135/2.8 - 200/4.0 - 300/5.6 - 80-200/4.0
C/Y Kiron: 105/2.8 (macro) - 28-210/4-5.6 zoom; Tokina: 80-200/4.0
M42: Jupiter: 9 - 11A - 21M; Helios: 44-4; Mir: 1b; Mamiya SX: 35/2.8 - 50/2.0 - 55/1.8 - 135/2.8; Petri: 28/2.8
Nikon: 24/2.8 - 28/3.5 - 105/2.5 - Vivitar: 100/3.5 macro
QBM Rollei: 50/1.8 - Sonnar 85/2.8;
Minolta: 50/1.7 - Vivitar: 28/2.8 Close focus
Tamron Adaptall: 300/5.6;
P6: Volna 3 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
indianadinos
Joined: 06 Jul 2008 Posts: 1310 Location: Toulouse, France
Expire: 2011-12-05
|
Posted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:47 pm Post subject: |
|
|
indianadinos wrote:
Hi,
Don't forget a pair of gloves, some pliers with small heads (typically you can find them in a model shop), some small boxes (eventually with a cap) for the screws and the ball bearings, some microfiber cloths, to store the elements of the lens (just in case, if you cannot finish the same day).
Moreover, i would also add some white lithium grease, for lubricating the focusing barrel (if required), some Zippo fluid (great for removing excess of grease and finger traces), some Cold Cream, for removing eventual fungus molds, some Q-tips, to clean sticky diaphragm blades ...
And i'm pretty sure i'm still forgetting something ...
Best wishes for your cold evenings activities ...
Cheers _________________ Please visit my blogs Shooting with a Pentax K10D / FF Visions
Takumar: 24/3.5, 28/3.5, 35/2, 35/3.5, 50/1.4, 55/1.8, 85/1.8, 105/2.8, 120/2.8, 135/3.5, 150/4, 200/4
Pentax-K: M28/2.8, K28/3.5, M50/1.4, A50/1.7, M50/4 Macro, K85/1.8, K105/2.8, K135/2.5, M200/4, M70-150/4
Zeiss: Flektogon 20/2.8, 20/4, 35/2.4, 35/2.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, Biotar 58/2, Sonnar 135/3.5, Sonnar 180/2.8
Meyer: Primagon 35/4.5, Domiplan 50/2.8, Oreston 50/1.8, Primoplan 58/1.9, Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Orestor 135/2.8
Schacht/Steinheil: Travenar 90/2.8, Travenon 135/4.5, Quinar 135/2.8, Quinar 135/3.5
Russian: MIR 37B, Industar 50/3.5, Helios 44M & 44M-2, Jupiter 37A
P6: Flektogon 50/4, Biometar 80/2.8, Orestor 300/4
Nikkor: Nikkor-O 35/2, Micro 55/3.5, Nikkor-S 50/1.4, Nikkor-Q 135/2.8
Fuji: EBC 28/3.5, EBC 55/3.5 Macro, EBC 135/2.5
Misc Lenses: Kiron 105/2.8 Macro, Tamron SP90/2.5
... and a few other Vivitar, Tamron, Sigma and Soligor lenses ...
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
larsr
Joined: 25 Jun 2009 Posts: 272 Location: Helsinki, Finland
|
Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 12:53 am Post subject: |
|
|
larsr wrote:
a magnifying glass isn't a bad idea either, even if you have perfect eyesight. lots of light and a magnifyer will help you look for tiny parts and possibly better determine the exact location of the problem, without having to push your eye into the lens
ie. something like this:
_________________ Lars
Bodies:
DSLR: Nikon D200
SLR: Nikon FA, Pentax Spotmatic SPII, Zeiss Ikon Icarex 35TM
35mm: Voigtl�nder Vitoret
Nikkor MF
24/2.8K AI'd, 28/2.8 AIS, 35/2 AIS, 50/1.4 AIS, 50/1.8 AIS, 50/2 AI, 55/2.8 Micro, 35-70/3.5 AIS, 85/1.8K AI'd, 100/2.8 Series E, 105/2.5 AI, 105/2.5 AIS, 135/3.5 AI, Nikkor 180/2.8 ED AIS, 200/4-Q AI'd, 300/4.5-H AI'd
M42
Misc: Vivitar 28/2.5, Chinon 28/2.8, Cosina Auto Cosinon 50/1.8, Revue Auto Revuenon 50/1.8, Mamiya 50/2, Auto Flex 55/1.7, Cosina Cosinon 135/2.8 MC, Vivitar 135/2.8, Petri 200/3.5 CC Auto
Zeiss: Carl Zeiss (Ikon) Tessar 50/2.8, CZJ Tessar 50/2.8, CZJ Pancolar Electric 50/1.8 MC, CZJ Biotar 58/2 T, CZJ Sonnar MC S 135/3.5
Asahi-Pentax: SMC-Takumar 55/1.8, Super-Takumar 105/2.8, SMC-Takumar 135/3.5
USSR: Mir-1 37/2.8 (1958 GP), Helios 44-2 58/2
Pentacon/Meyer: Pentacon 29/2.8 MC, Pentacon 50/1.8 MC Electric, Meyer G�rlitz Oreston 50/1.8, Meyer G�rlitz Orestor 135/2.8, Pentacon 200/4
Nikkor AF
50/1.8 D, 60/2.8 Micro, 55-200/4-5.6 G VR, 70-300/4-5.6 ED, 18-70/3.5-4.5 G
Wantlist
Nikkor 105/1.8, Nikkor 135/2
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Anu
Joined: 14 Apr 2009 Posts: 879
|
Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 8:31 am Post subject: |
|
|
Anu wrote:
Arkku wrote: |
- if some step seems to require impossible amounts of skill or dexterity, it's probably not the right thing to do—there must be some trick how the assembly workers could put the lens together; it's highly unlikely that they all had superhuman dexterity
|
I have also figured that out. However, at the moment I've not managed to figure out what the trick is with CZJ 180 and 300 aperture construction. A long time ago I managed to rebuilt the aperture mechanism of 300 about once in hour (many failures and one success in that time). With 180 I had to give up yesterday as I could not rebuild it once after several hours of trying.
Any ideas on what the trick might be? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
|
Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 8:40 am Post subject: |
|
|
cooltouch wrote:
indianadinos wrote: |
Don't forget a pair of gloves, some pliers with small heads (typically you can find them in a model shop), some small boxes (eventually with a cap) for the screws and the ball bearings, some microfiber cloths, to store the elements of the lens (just in case, if you cannot finish the same day). |
For those "small boxes," I've often used empty 35mm film canisters. I like the translucent ones because I can see what's inside of them easier.
+1 to a good selection of good quality screwdrivers.
Also the tweezers that taper to a needle point I've found to be indispensable. Great for holding those really tiny grub screws.
I've run into a situation on one lens where I needed two different sizes of very small allen wrenches to loosen some tiny allen screws before I could disassemble it.
It's quite common to break the tip of a very small screwdriver. Rather than toss it, I will grind it down until it's a flat blade again. The result usually won't be quite as narrow, but will still work for less narrow applications. A sharpening stone can be used for the grinding.
In my toolkit, I have a small set of stubby needle-nose pliers where I ground down the tips into posts with a narrow enough diameter where they would fit into the double round holes often found on various items like the cap securing the film wind lever. Often more convenient than spanners, and they work just as well.
A tip I picked up from a guy who had been repairing cameras for many years -- he kept a large magnet tied to a string by his work bench. If something tiny managed to fall off his bench onto the floor, he'd get out the magnet and drag it around the place to find the escapee. I have found that it's a good idea to have carpet both on and under my bench. Carpet on the bench makes it less likely that a small part will bounce or roll off, but if it does and hits the carpet instead of a hard floor, it won't bounce or roll off into a corner of an alternate universe, never to be seen again in this space-time continuum.
I have noticed in recent years that there are available many repair manuals for sale on eBay (and perhaps online as pdf's somewhere?), which might be worth the investment. I haven't purchased any yet. But that day will likely come when I'll invest in one or more. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Arkku
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 1416 Location: Helsinki, Finland
|
Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 8:55 am Post subject: |
|
|
Arkku wrote:
Anu wrote: |
I have also figured that out. However, at the moment I've not managed to figure out what the trick is with CZJ 180 and 300 aperture construction. A long time ago I managed to rebuilt the aperture mechanism of 300 about once in hour (many failures and one success in that time). With 180 I had to give up yesterday as I could not rebuild it once after several hours of trying.
Any ideas on what the trick might be? |
Unfortunately no. In fact I make it a point not to disassemble apertures unless absolutely necessary, after spending four hours reassembling a 16-blade aperture in an old Compur shutter. But one possibility is that the aperture blades need to be assembled in a certain position, e.g. open, closed, half-way in between, … |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Anu
Joined: 14 Apr 2009 Posts: 879
|
Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 1:18 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Anu wrote:
Arkku wrote: |
Anu wrote: |
I have also figured that out. However, at the moment I've not managed to figure out what the trick is with CZJ 180 and 300 aperture construction. A long time ago I managed to rebuilt the aperture mechanism of 300 about once in hour (many failures and one success in that time). With 180 I had to give up yesterday as I could not rebuild it once after several hours of trying.
Any ideas on what the trick might be? |
Unfortunately no. In fact I make it a point not to disassemble apertures unless absolutely necessary, after spending four hours reassembling a 16-blade aperture in an old Compur shutter. But one possibility is that the aperture blades need to be assembled in a certain position, e.g. open, closed, half-way in between, … |
I agree - unfortunately the 300 had a self-dissassembled aperture blade mess and the 180 decided to disassemble it's blades too when I tried to remove the whole aperture "cup". Well, I'll reserve a few hours one of these days to try to fix it... |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Farside
Joined: 01 Sep 2007 Posts: 6557 Location: Ireland
Expire: 2013-12-27
|
Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 12:58 am Post subject: |
|
|
Farside wrote:
The factory assemblers probably had a jig to do it with. I don't mean a dance. _________________ Dave - Moderator
Camera Fiend and Biograph Operator
If I wanted soot and whitewash I'd be a chimney sweep and house painter.
The Lenses of Farside (click)
BUY FRESH FOMAPAN TO HELP KEEP THE FACTORY ALIVE ---
Foma Campaign topic -
http://forum.mflenses.com/foma-campaign-t55443.html
FOMAPAN on forum -
http://www.mflenses.com/fs.php?sw=Fomapan
Webshop Norway
http://www.fomafoto.com/
Webshop Czech
https://fomaobchod.cz/inshop/scripts/shop.aspx?action=DoChangeLanguage&LangID=4 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
|
Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 1:06 am Post subject: |
|
|
Attila wrote:
You can buy all tools what you need from me in my Ebay shop or directly from our members hk300. I did start to fix lenses without special tools. It was inconvenience and I did scratch elements. Right after I bought cheap spanner wrench result wasn't much better. Need to get right tools for quality works like at every area of life. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
xjjohnno
Joined: 07 Apr 2009 Posts: 1270 Location: Melbourne Australia
Expire: 2011-11-18
|
Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 5:54 am Post subject: |
|
|
xjjohnno wrote:
The best workbench for the job is those plastic cat litter trays, not worries about loosing all those tiny screws and a soft surface that won't scratch the glass. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
mo
Joined: 27 Aug 2009 Posts: 8979 Location: Australia
Expire: 2016-07-30
|
Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 5:59 am Post subject: |
|
|
mo wrote:
Quote: |
The best workbench for the job is those plastic cat litter trays |
Won't you have to fight the cats from it???? _________________ Moira, Moderator
Fuji XE-1,Pentax K-01,Panasonic G1,Panasonic G5,Pentax MX
Ricoh Singlex TLS,KR-5,KR-5Super,XR-10
Lenses
Auto Rikenon's 55/1.4, 1.8, 2.8... 50/1.7 Takumar 2/58 Preset Takumar 2.8/105 Auto Takumar 2.2/55, 3.5/35 Super Takumar 1.8/55...Macro Takumar F4/50... CZJ Biotar ALU M42 2/58 CZJ Tessar ALU M42 2.8/50
CZJ DDR Flektogon Zebra M42 2.8/35 CZJ Pancolar M42 2/50 CZJ Pancolar Exakta 2/50
Auto Mamiya/Sekor 1.8/55 ...Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2.8/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 200/3.5 Tamron SP500/8 Tamron SP350/5.6 Tamron SP90/2.5
Primoplan 1.9/58 Primagon 4.5/35 Telemegor 5.5/150 Angenieux 3.5/28 Angenieux 3,5/135 Y 2
Canon FL 58/1.2,Canon FL85/1.8,Canon FL 100/3.5,Canon SSC 2.8/100 ,Konica AR 100/2.8, Nikkor P 105/2.5
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
youngcoby
Joined: 02 Oct 2009 Posts: 43 Location: Antwerp, Belgium
Expire: 2013-12-18
|
Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 11:00 am Post subject: |
|
|
youngcoby wrote:
Thanks all of you for your replies.
Are there any websites you think of to visit before repairing (or in my case most often "ruin") lenses?
I'll send a PM to HK300.
Maybe an idea to make a sticky with all things for sale directly for members, instead of looking them up in several topics? _________________
Digital cams: Pentax K5, Pentax K200D, Canon 10D (mf), Nikon D80 (af), Olympus SP570UZ, Olympus C70 (C7000)
Takumar: 24/3.5 - 28/3.5 - 35/3.5 - 50/1.4 - 55/1.8 - 85/1.9 - 105/2.8 - 135/2.5 - 135/3.5 - 200/4.0
Carl Zeiss T*: Distagon 28/2.8 MM - Tessar 45/2.8 MM - Planar 100/2 MM - Sonnar 40-80/3.5 AE
Jupiter: 37A - Meyer Orestegor 200/4.0
Coming up for sale:
Leica R: Summicron 35/2 - Summicron 50/2 - Elmarit 135/2.8 - Elmarit 180/2.8
C/Y Carl Zeiss T*: Distagon 35/2.8 AE - Planar 50/1.4 AE - Planar 50/1.7 MM - Sonnar 135/2.8 MM - Sonnar 180/2.8 AE
C/Y Yashica ML: 24/2.8 - 28/2.8 - 35/2.8 - 50/1.4 - 50/1.7 - 50/1.9 - 50/2.0 - 55/2.8 (macro) - 55/4.0 (macro) - 135/2.8 - 200/4.0 - 300/5.6 - 80-200/4.0
C/Y Kiron: 105/2.8 (macro) - 28-210/4-5.6 zoom; Tokina: 80-200/4.0
M42: Jupiter: 9 - 11A - 21M; Helios: 44-4; Mir: 1b; Mamiya SX: 35/2.8 - 50/2.0 - 55/1.8 - 135/2.8; Petri: 28/2.8
Nikon: 24/2.8 - 28/3.5 - 105/2.5 - Vivitar: 100/3.5 macro
QBM Rollei: 50/1.8 - Sonnar 85/2.8;
Minolta: 50/1.7 - Vivitar: 28/2.8 Close focus
Tamron Adaptall: 300/5.6;
P6: Volna 3 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
|
Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 2:54 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Attila wrote:
We have sticky thread already.
http://forum.mflenses.com/mflenses-tools-on-sale-t13186.html _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
youngcoby
Joined: 02 Oct 2009 Posts: 43 Location: Antwerp, Belgium
Expire: 2013-12-18
|
Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 3:09 pm Post subject: |
|
|
youngcoby wrote:
Attila,
I saw that one, but there are some posts in it with questions, feedback and so on.
My suggestion was about just a sticky, with one post, naming the different items along with their prices.
That's all.
In fact, based on the sticky you mentioned, I posted my question about things I need to start repairing lenses.
Filip _________________
Digital cams: Pentax K5, Pentax K200D, Canon 10D (mf), Nikon D80 (af), Olympus SP570UZ, Olympus C70 (C7000)
Takumar: 24/3.5 - 28/3.5 - 35/3.5 - 50/1.4 - 55/1.8 - 85/1.9 - 105/2.8 - 135/2.5 - 135/3.5 - 200/4.0
Carl Zeiss T*: Distagon 28/2.8 MM - Tessar 45/2.8 MM - Planar 100/2 MM - Sonnar 40-80/3.5 AE
Jupiter: 37A - Meyer Orestegor 200/4.0
Coming up for sale:
Leica R: Summicron 35/2 - Summicron 50/2 - Elmarit 135/2.8 - Elmarit 180/2.8
C/Y Carl Zeiss T*: Distagon 35/2.8 AE - Planar 50/1.4 AE - Planar 50/1.7 MM - Sonnar 135/2.8 MM - Sonnar 180/2.8 AE
C/Y Yashica ML: 24/2.8 - 28/2.8 - 35/2.8 - 50/1.4 - 50/1.7 - 50/1.9 - 50/2.0 - 55/2.8 (macro) - 55/4.0 (macro) - 135/2.8 - 200/4.0 - 300/5.6 - 80-200/4.0
C/Y Kiron: 105/2.8 (macro) - 28-210/4-5.6 zoom; Tokina: 80-200/4.0
M42: Jupiter: 9 - 11A - 21M; Helios: 44-4; Mir: 1b; Mamiya SX: 35/2.8 - 50/2.0 - 55/1.8 - 135/2.8; Petri: 28/2.8
Nikon: 24/2.8 - 28/3.5 - 105/2.5 - Vivitar: 100/3.5 macro
QBM Rollei: 50/1.8 - Sonnar 85/2.8;
Minolta: 50/1.7 - Vivitar: 28/2.8 Close focus
Tamron Adaptall: 300/5.6;
P6: Volna 3 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|