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indianadinos
Joined: 06 Jul 2008 Posts: 1310 Location: Toulouse, France
Expire: 2011-12-05
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Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 8:54 pm Post subject: Focusing with macro lenses ... |
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indianadinos wrote:
Hi all,
I need an advice about macro lenses ...
I have noticed that when focusing with "standard" lenses, i'm quite fast and since i mounted a Katzeye focusing screen rarely miss the focus on an image.
My issue is that this is no longer true when using macro lenses ...
It is not an issue about the barrel thread length, but i find a bit difficult to get the proper focus on a subject with a macro lens rather than with a normal lens ...
As an example, if i use my Pentax 105/2.8, i will focus and see the subject in focus in the viewfinder.
If i use my Phoenix 100 or my Kiron 105, it takes a bit longer to spot the right focus in the viewfinder ... It is quite a kind of "feeling" about the right focus (sorry, don't know how to explain this in english), but, again, not an issue with the longer focusing thread of the barrel ...
Is this the nominal behavior, or i have an issue with my eyes ? Before you ask, i have verified the diopter corrector of the viewfinder against a white wall and without a lens ...
All the advices are welcome ...
Thanks in advance for your replies (and especially for explanations, if you have some).
Cheers _________________ Please visit my blogs Shooting with a Pentax K10D / FF Visions
Takumar: 24/3.5, 28/3.5, 35/2, 35/3.5, 50/1.4, 55/1.8, 85/1.8, 105/2.8, 120/2.8, 135/3.5, 150/4, 200/4
Pentax-K: M28/2.8, K28/3.5, M50/1.4, A50/1.7, M50/4 Macro, K85/1.8, K105/2.8, K135/2.5, M200/4, M70-150/4
Zeiss: Flektogon 20/2.8, 20/4, 35/2.4, 35/2.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, Biotar 58/2, Sonnar 135/3.5, Sonnar 180/2.8
Meyer: Primagon 35/4.5, Domiplan 50/2.8, Oreston 50/1.8, Primoplan 58/1.9, Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Orestor 135/2.8
Schacht/Steinheil: Travenar 90/2.8, Travenon 135/4.5, Quinar 135/2.8, Quinar 135/3.5
Russian: MIR 37B, Industar 50/3.5, Helios 44M & 44M-2, Jupiter 37A
P6: Flektogon 50/4, Biometar 80/2.8, Orestor 300/4
Nikkor: Nikkor-O 35/2, Micro 55/3.5, Nikkor-S 50/1.4, Nikkor-Q 135/2.8
Fuji: EBC 28/3.5, EBC 55/3.5 Macro, EBC 135/2.5
Misc Lenses: Kiron 105/2.8 Macro, Tamron SP90/2.5
... and a few other Vivitar, Tamron, Sigma and Soligor lenses ...
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poilu
Joined: 26 Aug 2007 Posts: 10472 Location: Greece
Expire: 2019-08-29
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Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 9:14 pm Post subject: |
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poilu wrote:
I am not sure to understand the question but it is a fact that focusing is more easy with a better lens
With good lens, you have 1 point of focus and you know when you have it
with not so good lens you have to move barrel many times and guess the better position |
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hinnerker
Joined: 17 Aug 2009 Posts: 929 Location: Germany near Kiel
Expire: 2015-08-09
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Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 10:19 pm Post subject: Re: Focusing with macro lenses ... |
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hinnerker wrote:
indianadinos wrote: |
Hi all,
I need an advice about macro lenses ...
I have noticed that when focusing with "standard" lenses, i'm quite fast and since i mounted a Katzeye focusing screen rarely miss the focus on an image.
My issue is that this is no longer true when using macro lenses ...
It is not an issue about the barrel thread length, but i find a bit difficult to get the proper focus on a subject with a macro lens rather than with a normal lens ...
As an example, if i use my Pentax 105/2.8, i will focus and see the subject in focus in the viewfinder.
If i use my Phoenix 100 or my Kiron 105, it takes a bit longer to spot the right focus in the viewfinder ... It is quite a kind of "feeling" about the right focus (sorry, don't know how to explain this in english), but, again, not an issue with the longer focusing thread of the barrel ...
Is this the nominal behavior, or i have an issue with my eyes ? Before you ask, i have verified the diopter corrector of the viewfinder against a white wall and without a lens ...
All the advices are welcome ...
Thanks in advance for your replies (and especially for explanations, if you have some).
Cheers |
Hi,
don't know the lenses your are talking about (Phoenix 100 or my Kiron 105). Did only have the Pentax 2.8/105mm Super Takumar long time ago.
Whats exactly your problem?
Its normal that a macro lens with a ratio of 1:2 or extremly 1:1 has a very small DOF.
First of all.. use a tripod.
Freehand, each breath you take will change the "in focus" area...
Whats the problem with the Katzeye screen for you?
Its a normal behavior to get serious problems with a Split image/microprism collar focusing screen if you want to do macro's with micropsism and split image screen like the Katzeye's. The split image collapse at F/4-5.6, maybe a bit later..
Thats one of the reasons, why you should do macros better with a mate screen instead of a split image or microprism.
But the main reason for the difference is very, very small DOF Area.
Cheers
Hinnerker _________________ some light-painting lens stuff..
... and an EOS 5D MKII
www.digicamclub.de |
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patrickh
Joined: 23 Aug 2007 Posts: 8551 Location: Oregon
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 12:00 am Post subject: |
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patrickh wrote:
I think that the longer the "throw" the easier it is. When focusing takes a lot of turns it is easier to get it right when in macro. Most macro specialist lenses have this long throw
patrickh
PS the rest of the advice is very good _________________ DSLR: Nikon D300 Nikon D200 Nex 5N
MF Zooms: Kiron 28-85/3.5, 28-105/3.2, 75-150/3.5, Nikkor 50-135/3.5 AIS // MF Primes: Nikkor 20/4 AI, 24/2 AI, 28/2 AI, 28/2.8 AIS, 28/3.5 AI, 35/1.4 AIS, 35/2 AIS, 35/2.8 PC, 45/2.8 P, 50/1.4 AIS, 50/1.8 AIS, 50/2 AI, 55/2.8 AIS micro, 55/3.5 AI micro, 85/2 AI, 100/2,8 E, 105/1,8 AIS, 105/2,5 AIS, 135/2 AIS, 135/2.8 AIS, 200/4 AI, 200/4 AIS micro, 300/4.5 AI, 300/4.5 AI ED, Arsat 50/1.4, Kiron 28/2, Vivitar 28/2.5, Panagor 135/2.8, Tamron 28/2.5, Tamron 90/2.5 macro, Vivitar 90/2.5 macro (Tokina) Voigtlander 90/3.5 Vivitar 105/2.5 macro (Kiron) Kaleinar 100/2.8 AI Tamron 135/2.5, Vivitar 135/2.8CF, 200/3.5, Tokina 400/5,6
M42: Vivitar 28/2.5, Tamron 28/2.5, Formula5 28/2.8, Mamiya 28/2.8, Pentacon 29/2.8, Flektogon 35/2.4, Flektogon 35/2.8, Takumar 35/3.5, Curtagon 35/4, Takumar 50/1.4, Volna-6 50/2.8 macro, Mamiya 50/1.4, CZJ Pancolar 50/1,8, Oreston 50/1.8, Takumar 50/2, Industar 50/3.5, Sears 55/1.4, Helios 58/2, Jupiter 85/2, Helios 85/1.5, Takumar 105/2.8, Steinheil macro 105/4.5, Tamron 135/2.5, Jupiter 135/4, CZ 135/4, Steinheil Culminar 135/4,5, Jupiter 135/3.5, Takumar 135/3.5, Tair 135/2.8, Pentacon 135/2.8, CZ 135/2.8, Taika 135/3.5, Takumar 150/4, Jupiter 200/4, Takumar 200/4
Exakta: Topcon 100/2.8(M42), 35/2.8, 58/1.8, 135/2.8, 135/2.8 (M42), Kyoei Acall 135/3.5
C/Y: Yashica 28/2.8, 50/1.7, 135/2.8, Zeiss Planar 50/1.4, Distagon 25/2.8
Hexanon: 28/3.5, 35/2.8, 40/1.8, 50/1.7, 52/1.8, 135/3.2, 135/3.5, 35-70/3.5, 200/3.5
P6 : Mir 38 65/3.5, Biometar 80/2.8, Kaleinar 150/2.8, Sonnar 180/2.8
Minolta SR: 28/2.8, 28/3.5, 35/2.8, 45/2, 50/2, 58/1.4, 50/1.7, 135/2.8, 200/3.5
RF: Industar 53/2.8, Jupiter 8 50/2
Enlarg: Rodagon 50/5,6, 80/5,6, 105/5.6, Vario 44-52/4, 150/5.6 180/5.6 El Nikkor 50/2,8,63/2.8,75/4, 80/5,6, 105/5.6, 135/5.6 Schneider 60/5.6, 80/5.6, 80/4S,100/5.6S,105/5.6,135/5.6, 135/5.6S, 150/5.6S, Leica 95/4 |
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mo
Joined: 27 Aug 2009 Posts: 8979 Location: Australia
Expire: 2016-07-30
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Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 12:18 am Post subject: |
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mo wrote:
Quote: |
Freehand, each breath you take will change the "in focus" area... |
Thank you this makes sense....always learning! _________________ Moira, Moderator
Fuji XE-1,Pentax K-01,Panasonic G1,Panasonic G5,Pentax MX
Ricoh Singlex TLS,KR-5,KR-5Super,XR-10
Lenses
Auto Rikenon's 55/1.4, 1.8, 2.8... 50/1.7 Takumar 2/58 Preset Takumar 2.8/105 Auto Takumar 2.2/55, 3.5/35 Super Takumar 1.8/55...Macro Takumar F4/50... CZJ Biotar ALU M42 2/58 CZJ Tessar ALU M42 2.8/50
CZJ DDR Flektogon Zebra M42 2.8/35 CZJ Pancolar M42 2/50 CZJ Pancolar Exakta 2/50
Auto Mamiya/Sekor 1.8/55 ...Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2.8/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 200/3.5 Tamron SP500/8 Tamron SP350/5.6 Tamron SP90/2.5
Primoplan 1.9/58 Primagon 4.5/35 Telemegor 5.5/150 Angenieux 3.5/28 Angenieux 3,5/135 Y 2
Canon FL 58/1.2,Canon FL85/1.8,Canon FL 100/3.5,Canon SSC 2.8/100 ,Konica AR 100/2.8, Nikkor P 105/2.5
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 2:50 am Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
I have noticed with my macro lenses that the longer throw results in an image that doesn't "pop" into focus the way it does with a normal lens. Thus, I really have to observe closely for that maximum point of sharpness. Also, given that I'm often working at higher magnifications with macro lenses, this means the depth-of-field is next to nothing, so any backward-or-forward movement I make can affect the image. For both these reasons, I prefer not to shoot with my macro lenses wide open, and a tripod is always a good idea. I consider f/8 to be a minimum useful aperture with them. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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scsambrook
Joined: 29 Mar 2009 Posts: 2167 Location: Glasgow Scotland
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 9:11 am Post subject: |
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scsambrook wrote:
patrickh wrote: |
I think that the longer the "throw" the easier it is. When focusing takes a lot of turns it is easier to get it right when in macro. Most macro specialist lenses have this long throw
patrickh
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I find the opposite works better for me ... for all focal lengths. I wonder if an optometrist might have some explanation connected with eye defects and corrective lenses? _________________ Stephen
Equipment: Pentax DSLR for casual shooting, Lumix G1 and Fuji XE-1 for playing with old lenses, and Leica M8 because I still like the optical rangefinder system. |
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Photomac
Joined: 11 Jan 2008 Posts: 47 Location: Sutton Benger, UK
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Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 10:51 am Post subject: Re: Focusing with macro lenses ... |
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Photomac wrote:
It seems likely that the difficulty is due to a combination of several of the factors mentioned already:
- when taking macro the lens is at or near it's closest focus distance, so DoF is as small as it will ever be
- the long throw allows very fine adjustment by hand to accommodate the DoF
- since the focus adjustment is so fine (per degree of rotation of the barrel) the change from in focus to truly out of focus is gradual
- the human eye-brain function is poor at detecting absolute sharpness, and responds better to change.
This would explain why macro focusing doesn't 'snap' the way normal lenses do.
In summary, a long throw helix is very good physically for minute adjustment, and very bad perceptually for us humans to tell when it's right.
Regards
Angus |
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rick_oleson
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 386 Location: Lexington Kentucky USA
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Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 12:41 pm Post subject: |
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rick_oleson wrote:
Unless you're shooting on a tripod (which only works with VERY stationary subjects), I don't use the focus ring for focus adjustment in macro work: I set the focus ring according to the general distance/magnification that I am working at, and then move myself forward and back to get into focus on the specific point I'm after. This is faster, you can make the image snap in and out as fast or as slow as you want, and release the shutter at the instant that you see it's right.
I find fine micrometer-like focus adjustments very difficult to work with ... I had a 50mm Schneider Xenon that took over 300 degrees of barrel rotation to get to minimum focus, it was a fine lens but I felt I could never find the focus point with it. Replaced it with a Zeiss Biotar that is probably not as good a lens but it works much better for me. _________________ I don't know what I want to be when I grow up |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 12:50 pm Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
I personally think (very personal opinion) that for macro focusing, nothing beats a good bellows trail.
- _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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sichko
Joined: 20 Jun 2008 Posts: 2475 Location: South West UK
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Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 12:57 pm Post subject: |
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sichko wrote:
rick_oleson wrote: |
Unless you're shooting on a tripod (which only works with VERY stationary subjects), I don't use the focus ring for focus adjustment in macro work: I set the focus ring according to the general distance/magnification that I am working at, and then move myself forward and back to get into focus on the specific point I'm after. This is faster, you can make the image snap in and out as fast or as slow as you want, and release the shutter at the instant that you see it's right.
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I don't do real macro work but only close-ups. But this is my approach also. For most of my subjects it's simply impossible to set up a tripod. _________________ John |
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Dream Merchant
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 92 Location: Singapore
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Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 3:26 pm Post subject: |
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Dream Merchant wrote:
A lot of good info, especially about the lens focusing throw and minute movement throwing focus out at higher magnifications! I learned a lot in this thread!
OP, have you tried a rough ground focusing screen? Basically, it makes the viewfinder images 'SNAP' in and out of focus much faster than a normally ground screen. I'm not familiar with the Pentax cameras, so you might have to look around different sources a bit. In Canon DSLRs, this screen goes by the post-fix of 's' (xx-s screen). Bear in mind, the rougher the grind n the screen, the darker the VF image. I usually can easily focus using this screen and lenses up to about f/4 or so. |
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poilu
Joined: 26 Aug 2007 Posts: 10472 Location: Greece
Expire: 2019-08-29
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Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 3:41 pm Post subject: |
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poilu wrote:
you have to check for backfocus
if you focus on eyes and get a result like mine, you probably need to shim your screen
backfocus sample
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patrickh
Joined: 23 Aug 2007 Posts: 8551 Location: Oregon
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 3:57 pm Post subject: |
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patrickh wrote:
Bellows is definitely the way to go though for precision. Some also like the focusing helicoids for rigidity.
patrickh _________________ DSLR: Nikon D300 Nikon D200 Nex 5N
MF Zooms: Kiron 28-85/3.5, 28-105/3.2, 75-150/3.5, Nikkor 50-135/3.5 AIS // MF Primes: Nikkor 20/4 AI, 24/2 AI, 28/2 AI, 28/2.8 AIS, 28/3.5 AI, 35/1.4 AIS, 35/2 AIS, 35/2.8 PC, 45/2.8 P, 50/1.4 AIS, 50/1.8 AIS, 50/2 AI, 55/2.8 AIS micro, 55/3.5 AI micro, 85/2 AI, 100/2,8 E, 105/1,8 AIS, 105/2,5 AIS, 135/2 AIS, 135/2.8 AIS, 200/4 AI, 200/4 AIS micro, 300/4.5 AI, 300/4.5 AI ED, Arsat 50/1.4, Kiron 28/2, Vivitar 28/2.5, Panagor 135/2.8, Tamron 28/2.5, Tamron 90/2.5 macro, Vivitar 90/2.5 macro (Tokina) Voigtlander 90/3.5 Vivitar 105/2.5 macro (Kiron) Kaleinar 100/2.8 AI Tamron 135/2.5, Vivitar 135/2.8CF, 200/3.5, Tokina 400/5,6
M42: Vivitar 28/2.5, Tamron 28/2.5, Formula5 28/2.8, Mamiya 28/2.8, Pentacon 29/2.8, Flektogon 35/2.4, Flektogon 35/2.8, Takumar 35/3.5, Curtagon 35/4, Takumar 50/1.4, Volna-6 50/2.8 macro, Mamiya 50/1.4, CZJ Pancolar 50/1,8, Oreston 50/1.8, Takumar 50/2, Industar 50/3.5, Sears 55/1.4, Helios 58/2, Jupiter 85/2, Helios 85/1.5, Takumar 105/2.8, Steinheil macro 105/4.5, Tamron 135/2.5, Jupiter 135/4, CZ 135/4, Steinheil Culminar 135/4,5, Jupiter 135/3.5, Takumar 135/3.5, Tair 135/2.8, Pentacon 135/2.8, CZ 135/2.8, Taika 135/3.5, Takumar 150/4, Jupiter 200/4, Takumar 200/4
Exakta: Topcon 100/2.8(M42), 35/2.8, 58/1.8, 135/2.8, 135/2.8 (M42), Kyoei Acall 135/3.5
C/Y: Yashica 28/2.8, 50/1.7, 135/2.8, Zeiss Planar 50/1.4, Distagon 25/2.8
Hexanon: 28/3.5, 35/2.8, 40/1.8, 50/1.7, 52/1.8, 135/3.2, 135/3.5, 35-70/3.5, 200/3.5
P6 : Mir 38 65/3.5, Biometar 80/2.8, Kaleinar 150/2.8, Sonnar 180/2.8
Minolta SR: 28/2.8, 28/3.5, 35/2.8, 45/2, 50/2, 58/1.4, 50/1.7, 135/2.8, 200/3.5
RF: Industar 53/2.8, Jupiter 8 50/2
Enlarg: Rodagon 50/5,6, 80/5,6, 105/5.6, Vario 44-52/4, 150/5.6 180/5.6 El Nikkor 50/2,8,63/2.8,75/4, 80/5,6, 105/5.6, 135/5.6 Schneider 60/5.6, 80/5.6, 80/4S,100/5.6S,105/5.6,135/5.6, 135/5.6S, 150/5.6S, Leica 95/4 |
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Dream Merchant
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 92 Location: Singapore
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Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 4:02 pm Post subject: |
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Dream Merchant wrote:
Would a well-made macro focusing rail work as well, if higher magnifications are not needed? |
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indianadinos
Joined: 06 Jul 2008 Posts: 1310 Location: Toulouse, France
Expire: 2011-12-05
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Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 9:42 pm Post subject: |
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indianadinos wrote:
Well, a lot of really useful infos here ...
hinnerker wrote: |
Freehand, each breath you take will change the "in focus" area... |
Right, i knew that breathing could cause micro-blurring, but never thought before to associate this with focusing problems ...
hinnerker wrote: |
Its a normal behavior to get serious problems with a Split image/microprism collar focusing screen if you want to do macro's with micropsism and split image screen like the Katzeye's. The split image collapse at F/4-5.6, maybe a bit later.. |
Well, here i would really like to know what happens with my screen: when i use my Pentax 105/2.8, the split image works perfectly. When i use my Kiron 105/2.8 (same focal length, same aperture) the split image collapse as if the lens was at f/4 or f/5.6 (which is not the case, tested more than once and lens verified by a pro lab) ...
Moreover, with my Phoenix 100/3.5, i have to find the right alignment between my eye and the viewfinder, to avoid darkening of one of the halves. Wonder why this doesn't happen when i mount a Pentax 200/4 or a Pentacon 200/4, which are slower lenses than the 100/3.5 ...
hinnerker wrote: |
Thats one of the reasons, why you should do macros better with a mate screen instead of a split image or microprism. |
Don't know matte screen for Pentax cameras, do you have some references ?
patrickh wrote: |
I think that the longer the "throw" the easier it is. When focusing takes a lot of turns it is easier to get it right when in macro. Most macro specialist lenses have this long throw |
Agree on this, my Kiron is built this way ...
cooltouch wrote: |
I have noticed with my macro lenses that the longer throw results in an image that doesn't "pop" into focus the way it does with a normal lens. |
This perfectly describes my issue ...
Photomac wrote: |
It seems likely that the difficulty is due to a combination of several of the factors mentioned already:
- when taking macro the lens is at or near it's closest focus distance, so DoF is as small as it will ever be
- the long throw allows very fine adjustment by hand to accommodate the DoF
- since the focus adjustment is so fine (per degree of rotation of the barrel) the change from in focus to truly out of focus is gradual
- the human eye-brain function is poor at detecting absolute sharpness, and responds better to change.
This would explain why macro focusing doesn't 'snap' the way normal lenses do.
In summary, a long throw helix is very good physically for minute adjustment, and very bad perceptually for us humans to tell when it's right. |
I'm starting to think that the last two points, fine focus adjustment and human eye-brain function, really spotted the reason why ... After all, with a "normal" lens the focus plane changes more quickly than with a macro lens ...
rick_oleson wrote: |
Unless you're shooting on a tripod (which only works with VERY stationary subjects), I don't use the focus ring for focus adjustment in macro work: I set the focus ring according to the general distance/magnification that I am working at, and then move myself forward and back to get into focus on the specific point I'm after. This is faster, you can make the image snap in and out as fast or as slow as you want, and release the shutter at the instant that you see it's right. |
Good advice ... Have to modify the arrangements in my "home studio", will try during this week-end ...
Orio wrote: |
I personally think (very personal opinion) that for macro focusing, nothing beats a good bellows trail. |
I have only an M42 bellows, can use it only with my M42s ... But, totally agree on this, verified with a Steinheil 135 and a Jupiter-35 ...
Nevertheless, you should admit that such a setup may be used in studio or at home, not while walking outdoor ...
poilu wrote: |
you have to check for backfocus
if you focus on eyes and get a result like mine, you probably need to shim your screen |
Well, i think i will have to do this too ... Thinking of using a Post-it to cut a shim, what do you think ?
Thanks to you all for your replies, i'm starting to be a bit more confident in my eyes ...
Cheers _________________ Please visit my blogs Shooting with a Pentax K10D / FF Visions
Takumar: 24/3.5, 28/3.5, 35/2, 35/3.5, 50/1.4, 55/1.8, 85/1.8, 105/2.8, 120/2.8, 135/3.5, 150/4, 200/4
Pentax-K: M28/2.8, K28/3.5, M50/1.4, A50/1.7, M50/4 Macro, K85/1.8, K105/2.8, K135/2.5, M200/4, M70-150/4
Zeiss: Flektogon 20/2.8, 20/4, 35/2.4, 35/2.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, Biotar 58/2, Sonnar 135/3.5, Sonnar 180/2.8
Meyer: Primagon 35/4.5, Domiplan 50/2.8, Oreston 50/1.8, Primoplan 58/1.9, Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Orestor 135/2.8
Schacht/Steinheil: Travenar 90/2.8, Travenon 135/4.5, Quinar 135/2.8, Quinar 135/3.5
Russian: MIR 37B, Industar 50/3.5, Helios 44M & 44M-2, Jupiter 37A
P6: Flektogon 50/4, Biometar 80/2.8, Orestor 300/4
Nikkor: Nikkor-O 35/2, Micro 55/3.5, Nikkor-S 50/1.4, Nikkor-Q 135/2.8
Fuji: EBC 28/3.5, EBC 55/3.5 Macro, EBC 135/2.5
Misc Lenses: Kiron 105/2.8 Macro, Tamron SP90/2.5
... and a few other Vivitar, Tamron, Sigma and Soligor lenses ...
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 10:52 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
indianadinos wrote: |
rick_oleson wrote: |
Unless you're shooting on a tripod (which only works with VERY stationary subjects), I don't use the focus ring for focus adjustment in macro work: I set the focus ring according to the general distance/magnification that I am working at, and then move myself forward and back to get into focus on the specific point I'm after. This is faster, you can make the image snap in and out as fast or as slow as you want, and release the shutter at the instant that you see it's right. |
Thanks to you all for your replies, i'm starting to be a bit more confident in my eyes ...
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I've used Rick's method with very good results, for the reasons he describes. But if you're in a situation where your shutter speed is too low for handheld work, there's still a good option that involves a tripod. Get a macro focusing stage. Mount that to the tripod and the camera/lens to the stage. Good stages allow movements in both X and Y directions, so you can use the stage, not only for accurate focusing, but for framing of your subjects too. This is especially handy when shooting at high magnification levels, such as when using a bellows or macro lenses with extension tubes. _________________ Michael
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Bruce
Joined: 15 Jan 2008 Posts: 842 Location: Boston, Ma USA
Expire: 2014-11-22
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Posted: Fri Oct 16, 2009 9:40 pm Post subject: |
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Bruce wrote:
poilu wrote: |
you have to check for backfocus
if you focus on eyes and get a result like mine, you probably need to shim your screen
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_________________ Digital: Canon 40d & 5DmkII, Film: Hasselblad 203fe/Zeiss 80/2.8 cfe
Adapters for EOS: Cy; M42; Zenit39; Exakta; LeicaR; OlympusOM; PK; Nikon; Rollei35; Retina; Adaptal; P-6 |
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Screamin Scott
Joined: 13 Oct 2007 Posts: 1014 Location: Dallas, Georgia USA
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Posted: Fri Oct 16, 2009 11:43 pm Post subject: |
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Screamin Scott wrote:
[quote="cooltouch"]
indianadinos wrote: |
I've used Rick's method with very good results, for the reasons he describes. But if you're in a situation where your shutter speed is too low for handheld work, there's still a good option that involves a tripod. Get a macro focusing stage. Mount that to the tripod and the camera/lens to the stage. Good stages allow movements in both X and Y directions, so you can use the stage, not only for accurate focusing, but for framing of your subjects too. This is especially handy when shooting at high magnification levels, such as when using a bellows or macro lenses with extension tubes. |
The tripod/rail is fine for studio work, but almost useless in the field. That's because almost every day, you have wind & even the slightest breeze plays havoc with focusing/composition....As for slow shutter speeds, just use a flash for additional illumination. Make sure you use a diffuser to cut down on hot spots on shiny subjects. Many of my field macros involve the use of a speedlight... _________________ Cameras-Nikon D300, D7100,D610,FE2,FTN ,FT2,N90s, Olympus Pen EP-3 & Olympus OM-D E-M10
Nikkor AF Zooms=28-105/3.5D,28-70/3.5D,35-135/3.5, et al
Nikkor AF //50/1.8,//Nikkor MF//50/2ai,50/1.8ais 50/1.4ai,24/2.8ais,28/2.8ai,28/3.5ai,55microAis/2.8,105/2.5ai,200/4ai,300/4.5ai35-135/3.5Ais,et al
Kiron /Kino made lenses//70-210/4ai,28-105/3.2ai,30-80/3.5ai,Viv 28/2ai,35-85/2.8aiVivS1,105/2.8Ais Dine,24-48/3.8ai VivS1,50-150/3.8aiViv,28-85/2.8aiViv,100/2.8Nai Viv,70-210/3.5Nai Viv,28/2.5ai Viv Komine made Viv//24/2Ais,135/2.8aiCF,28-50/3.5ai,28-90/2.8ai Viv S1,80-200/4.5aiCosina made Viv 19/3.8 Ais...Also Sigma 24/2.8 Ais Tokina made24/2.8ai VivAF Sigma 21-35/3.5,& other lenses... A link to some of my Flickr albums...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/screaminscott/albums |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 1:35 am Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
Screamin Scott wrote: |
The tripod/rail is fine for studio work, but almost useless in the field. That's because almost every day, you have wind & even the slightest breeze plays havoc with focusing/composition... |
It's called patience. I've used tripods and macro stages with bellows in the field many times, and got good results. Maybe I just didn't know any better, I dunno. Plus there are times, if you're doing very high magnification work, like with a bellows, that the stage isn't just handy, it becomes a necessity for any sort of convenience at all when it comes to framing.
The problem I've always had with using flashes is they change the color of everything, and often introduce harsh shadows. But I agree, sometimes they are just simply necessary. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
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DSG
Joined: 04 Mar 2007 Posts: 544 Location: London, UK.
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Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 12:48 pm Post subject: |
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DSG wrote:
I often find it best not to use a tripod for my macros and I focus by moving then lens closer to or further from the subject whilst looking through the viewfinder...Here's my handheld setup:
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patrickh
Joined: 23 Aug 2007 Posts: 8551 Location: Oregon
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 7:26 pm Post subject: |
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patrickh wrote:
And you pump iron on a regular basis?
patrickh
BTW I know you get superb results with that _________________ DSLR: Nikon D300 Nikon D200 Nex 5N
MF Zooms: Kiron 28-85/3.5, 28-105/3.2, 75-150/3.5, Nikkor 50-135/3.5 AIS // MF Primes: Nikkor 20/4 AI, 24/2 AI, 28/2 AI, 28/2.8 AIS, 28/3.5 AI, 35/1.4 AIS, 35/2 AIS, 35/2.8 PC, 45/2.8 P, 50/1.4 AIS, 50/1.8 AIS, 50/2 AI, 55/2.8 AIS micro, 55/3.5 AI micro, 85/2 AI, 100/2,8 E, 105/1,8 AIS, 105/2,5 AIS, 135/2 AIS, 135/2.8 AIS, 200/4 AI, 200/4 AIS micro, 300/4.5 AI, 300/4.5 AI ED, Arsat 50/1.4, Kiron 28/2, Vivitar 28/2.5, Panagor 135/2.8, Tamron 28/2.5, Tamron 90/2.5 macro, Vivitar 90/2.5 macro (Tokina) Voigtlander 90/3.5 Vivitar 105/2.5 macro (Kiron) Kaleinar 100/2.8 AI Tamron 135/2.5, Vivitar 135/2.8CF, 200/3.5, Tokina 400/5,6
M42: Vivitar 28/2.5, Tamron 28/2.5, Formula5 28/2.8, Mamiya 28/2.8, Pentacon 29/2.8, Flektogon 35/2.4, Flektogon 35/2.8, Takumar 35/3.5, Curtagon 35/4, Takumar 50/1.4, Volna-6 50/2.8 macro, Mamiya 50/1.4, CZJ Pancolar 50/1,8, Oreston 50/1.8, Takumar 50/2, Industar 50/3.5, Sears 55/1.4, Helios 58/2, Jupiter 85/2, Helios 85/1.5, Takumar 105/2.8, Steinheil macro 105/4.5, Tamron 135/2.5, Jupiter 135/4, CZ 135/4, Steinheil Culminar 135/4,5, Jupiter 135/3.5, Takumar 135/3.5, Tair 135/2.8, Pentacon 135/2.8, CZ 135/2.8, Taika 135/3.5, Takumar 150/4, Jupiter 200/4, Takumar 200/4
Exakta: Topcon 100/2.8(M42), 35/2.8, 58/1.8, 135/2.8, 135/2.8 (M42), Kyoei Acall 135/3.5
C/Y: Yashica 28/2.8, 50/1.7, 135/2.8, Zeiss Planar 50/1.4, Distagon 25/2.8
Hexanon: 28/3.5, 35/2.8, 40/1.8, 50/1.7, 52/1.8, 135/3.2, 135/3.5, 35-70/3.5, 200/3.5
P6 : Mir 38 65/3.5, Biometar 80/2.8, Kaleinar 150/2.8, Sonnar 180/2.8
Minolta SR: 28/2.8, 28/3.5, 35/2.8, 45/2, 50/2, 58/1.4, 50/1.7, 135/2.8, 200/3.5
RF: Industar 53/2.8, Jupiter 8 50/2
Enlarg: Rodagon 50/5,6, 80/5,6, 105/5.6, Vario 44-52/4, 150/5.6 180/5.6 El Nikkor 50/2,8,63/2.8,75/4, 80/5,6, 105/5.6, 135/5.6 Schneider 60/5.6, 80/5.6, 80/4S,100/5.6S,105/5.6,135/5.6, 135/5.6S, 150/5.6S, Leica 95/4 |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 7:51 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
Sorry, but I can't help but find it a bit ironic that your "hand held setup" is mounted to what looks like a pretty stout tripod.
What is that lens combo, by the way? A long Nikkor macro with a stack of extension tubes or something?
Also, I can't tell from the photo how your Metz flash is mounted to this hand-held setup -- what sort of bracket are you using?
Cool, it looks like your Sigma has a PC connector. Wish my Canon did. I'm guessing that's an older Metz, so you're not worried about trigger voltage, eh? _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
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ChrisLilley
Joined: 01 Jan 2008 Posts: 1767 Location: Nice, France
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Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 8:30 pm Post subject: |
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ChrisLilley wrote:
cooltouch wrote: |
What is that lens combo, by the way? A long Nikkor macro with a stack of extension tubes or something? |
Exactly. It's an AI Micro-Nikkor 200mm f/4, circa 1982, with a shed load of extension tubes. _________________ Camera (ˈkæ mə rə), n. Device for taking pictures in bright light
There are 10 kinds of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don’t. Key: Ai-P, Ai, Ai'ed, AiS
Camera: Nikon D90, D40, DK-21M eyepiece, ML-3 remote MF lenses: Nikkor 20mm f/4 K, AI'ed | N.K. Nikkor-N 24mm f/2.8 | Nikkor-N.C 24mm f/2.8 | Nikkor 28mm f/2.8 AiS late model | Арсенал (Arsenal) Мир-24Н (Mir-24N) 35mm f/2 | Cosina Voigtländer Ultron SL II 40mm f/2.0 | Micro-Nikkor 55mm f/2.8 AiS | Zoom-Nikkor 80-200 f/4.5 Ai | ЛЗОС (LZOS) Юпитер-9 (Jupiter-9) 85mm f/2 | Cosina Voigtländer APO-Lanthar 90mm f/3.5 SL | Nikkor-P 105mm f/2.5 pre-Ai, Ai'ed | Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/4 | Schneider Kreuznach Componon 105mm f/5.6 | Nikkor 135mm f/2.8, Ai'ed 1976 model | Nikkor 180mm f/2.8 ED AiS | Арсенал (Arsenal) ТЕЛЕАР-Н (Telear-n) 200mm f/3.5 | Nikkor 300 mm f/4.5 Ai (full equipment list) |
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DSG
Joined: 04 Mar 2007 Posts: 544 Location: London, UK.
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Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 10:33 pm Post subject: |
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DSG wrote:
ChrisLilley wrote: |
cooltouch wrote: |
What is that lens combo, by the way? A long Nikkor macro with a stack of extension tubes or something? |
Exactly. It's an AI Micro-Nikkor 200mm f/4, circa 1982, with a shed load of extension tubes. |
Actually its a Micro Nikkor 200mm f4 IF Ai-S to be exact and in the pic its fitted to a Nikon PN-1, combined 52.5mm extension ring and rotating tripod collar, and between the PN-1 and the SD14 is a set of Chinese made Jin She Jie Quan Nikon extension rings and to mount this lot onto the camera a Roxsen Nikon-M42 adapter is used onto an M42-SA adapter. |
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