Home

Please support mflenses.com if you need any graphic related work order it from us, click on above banner to order!
SearchSearch MemberlistMemberlist RegisterRegister ProfileProfile Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages Log inLog in

shooting at nght /white balance settings
Post new topic   Reply to topic
Home   Techniques
View previous topic :: View next topic  


PostPosted: Fri Oct 18, 2013 11:35 pm    Post subject: shooting at nght /white balance settings Reply with quote
Hello everyone I'm new to MF and wanted some advice about white balance setting for night shots I shot a test shot with my olmpus mz 50mm and it looks a liitle bit orange ISO set 200 and auto white balance , then shot again using a Helios 44m f/2 set at f8 100 ISO I took it down to 100 as it lets more light in than the lovely olympus and looks less warm can post the piccys if anyone wants to peek and give me more advice maybe I should have set the oly to 100 as well, oh and the oly was set at f16. Thank you nice people .


PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 12:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
I'm not sure If understand your problem correctly due orthographical problems but you can shoot in RAW instead of JPEG and adjust WB on your computer in a software like Adobe Lightroom afterwards..


PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 2:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
1) welcome to the group. It would be nice if you could shortly introduce yourself;

2) please write in a more conventional manner, it is very difficult to read your text;

3) when you ask for advice, please provide all the relevant information that makes it possible
for us to answer. In this specific case: what camera are you using???

4) as a general statement, the correct temperature for a scene is the one of the main light source.
So evaluate your main light source (tungsten? fluorescent? led?) and apply the WB value accordingly.
if you are using only the moon light as source, WB as daylight (moon reflects the sun light).


PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 7:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Hi welcome to the group. I find when shooting outdoors at night, the light is very orange due to tungsten and sodium lights' colour temperature. Try the incandecent (light bulb) setting on your camera, everything will 'blue up' a bit.

I always do 'autocolor balance' in Photoshop, it makes it much more acceptable. Where in Manchester you from? (postcode area is fine e.g M21) I'm not too far.


PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Thanks for the help Im from M25 area of manchester /PRESTWICH .Sorry I have a olmypus micro 4/3rds epl1 camera , I mostly shoot objects of interest such as Landscapes ,Skyscapes and rural country and I do like night shooting .My camera was a gift from my brother and someone mentioned I could get better results from manual focus lenses than the supplied kit lens. The kit lens was not great as the rear lens was scratched and I think they are plastic not glass elements .So the kit lens was sold and I bought a small selection of lenses.
These were what I chose for my just new to photography manual lenses . a 24mm Miranda , 28mm tokina , 50mm olympus zuiko and a 58mm 44 helios f/2 I bought a 70-210 mm prakticar zoom lens so thats the only zoom I own ,the lenses I chose are from others who own them and seem happy, the zoom was a really cheap 99p ebay buy but I have not heard of this lens before so dont know a lot .

WHITE BALANCE.a friend suggested to use my live view and adjust wb setting via this method , seems like agood idea so give that a try .
why does my photos look like daylight if I leave the exposure on too long .
Thank you all for your input .

Philslizzy is that a referece to phil from thin lizzy then Cool


PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 2:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
pastychops wrote:

WHITE BALANCE.a friend suggested to use my live view and adjust wb setting via this method , seems like agood idea so give that a try .


Most folks here shoot RAW format images and use software to process them. It's extra work, but will give you complete control of WB after the shot.

pastychops wrote:

why does my photos look like daylight if I leave the exposure on too long .


I was very disappointed to learn that when I tried long exposure night photos. Sometimes the camera sees much differently then the eye!

As I understand it moonlight is reflected sunlight, so a long exposure gathers lots of that reflected sunlight and makes it look like daytime.


PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 2:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I can shoot RAW and 16 bit channel and use post production after tiffs are good I have tried the format but computer does not always display them I had a trip last year with the other half and shot raw and converted to tiff took ages as over 400 images but computer crashed when veiwing on windows photo gallery maybe should convert to jpeg .could use raw + jpeg I guess . What is the best option RAW or RAW + jpeg please help in this area is crucial to my photo's .Tahnk you all.


PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 7:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
pastychops wrote:

...Philslizzy is that a referece to phil from thin lizzy then Cool


It certainly is and he lived in Manchester too once, as did I.


PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 8:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I shoot raw and use Lightroom. With Lightroom you wouldn't convert all 400 to tiff, you'd work on them in raw. Making your selection of the keepers, working on those and then exporting to jpg for printing/sharing.

Night shots are awkward when there's artificial light in the scene. You can easily have three or four different typed of artificial light and you're choice of white balance becomes an artistic compromise.


PostPosted: Wed Dec 04, 2013 11:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
pastychops wrote:
Quote:
Hello everyone I'm new to MF and wanted some advice about white balance setting for night shots I shot a test shot with my olmpus mz 50mm and it looks a liitle bit orange


When taking pictures at night with sodium lamps as a light source one has to keep in mind that the colour of sodium street lamps is produced by almost monochromatic sodium spectral yellow D-line (that is why they are so efficient - they emit the colour of light the human eye is very sensitive to). The consequence is such that no RAW colour balance applied will restitute something that was almost nonexistent - the spectrum of white light.
It is like B&W photography but in the yellow.

Macheck


PostPosted: Thu Dec 05, 2013 8:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Thankfully, in the UK at least, sodium street lamps are being phased out in a lot of urban areas. If all you've got are sodium lights in the shot, you will struggle. But LED, halide, etc.are much more interesting for night photography.


PostPosted: Thu Dec 05, 2013 11:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
But it might have some usefulness:

"The street fire"


Macheck
Post new topic   Reply to topic
Home   Techniques
Page 1 of 1