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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5044 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 8:08 am Post subject: Overcast sky flare - how to prevent it? |
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kansalliskala wrote:
I'm getting flare (haze, washed image, not contrast) in situations where the sky is covered but still bright and the ground is dark. Can't get longer hood because of vignetting.
Any idea how to reduce it? _________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 8:16 am Post subject: Re: Overcast sky flare - how to prevent it? |
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Orio wrote:
kansalliskala wrote: |
I'm getting flare (haze, washed image, not contrast) in situations where the sky is covered but still bright and the ground is dark. Can't get longer hood because of vignetting.
Any idea how to reduce it? |
OK, the stupid answer is "use a better coated lens" but everyone can give it
If a properly sized lens hood can not improve the situation, then there is little that can be done,
because it means that the internal reflections in the lens happen anyway.
The only possible measure you can take is to stop down the lens as much as you can.
If you think about it, stopping down the iris does a physical function that is similar to that of a lens hood,
at least for the optical components that are placed behind the iris.
By limiting the output of the lens to the very centre of it, you will also limit the influence of the parasite rays
that enter from the sides. This will not fix the problem completely, but it should be of help. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5044 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 8:58 am Post subject: |
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kansalliskala wrote:
Must buy new lenses.
Otherwise I would have been delighted but don't have that much money these days. _________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5044 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 11:30 am Post subject: |
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kansalliskala wrote:
Anyone tried something like this?
http://www.dvinfo.net/forum/canon-vixia-series-avchd-hdv-camcorders/118069-hv30-w-v1-lens-hood.html _________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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fuzzywuzzy
Joined: 18 Dec 2010 Posts: 1258 Location: Down East, Canada, eh?
Expire: 2013-11-30
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Posted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 7:33 pm Post subject: |
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fuzzywuzzy wrote:
Not exactly, but shading my flare-prone Mir20M with a ball-cap in a similar position makes a definite improvement. _________________ I welcome C&C, editing my pics and reposting them on the forum is fine.
NEX-F3
~~~~~~~~~
CZJ Sonnar 135/4, Biotar 58/2, Pancolar 50/2, Tessar 50/2.8, Flek 35/2.8, Flek 25/4
Super Takumar 135/2.5, 135/3.5, 100/4 bellows, 50/1.4, 28/3.5
Helios 58/2, 3M-5A 500/8, Mir 20M
Vivitar Series 1 70-210 - - - - - - - - Nikkor 200/4
Rikenon 28/2.8 - - - - - - - - Zeiss 50/1.7 Planar
PB 50/2.4, 135/2.8
Yashica 50/1.9, 28/2.8, 135/2.8
Hexanon 28/3.5, 50/1.4 |
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miran
Joined: 01 Aug 2012 Posts: 1364 Location: Slovenia
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Posted: Mon Sep 23, 2013 8:34 am Post subject: |
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miran wrote:
What are you using the lens on? If you have a mirrorless camera (short flange distance) and a cheap adapter with shiny interior, it's possible the reflections are in the adapter. If it's the lens, then there's really not much you can do. _________________ my flickr stream |
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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5044 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Mon Sep 23, 2013 8:56 am Post subject: |
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kansalliskala wrote:
It's AF on FF but didn't want to make fuss out of it.
Here is my attempt. Still bit too long but better than the original ridiculoisly short.
the sun is just about off the frame
still some vignetting (red color is good for template, you can see it better in the picture .. and I didn't get black cardboard on Sunday)
here with the original hood
_________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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philslizzy
Joined: 07 Aug 2012 Posts: 4745 Location: Cheshire, England
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Posted: Mon Sep 23, 2013 11:29 am Post subject: |
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philslizzy wrote:
I usually use my hand just slightly out of view. _________________ Hero in the 'messin-with-cameras-for-the-hell-of-it department'. Official. |
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Aanything
Joined: 27 Aug 2011 Posts: 2187 Location: Piacenza, Italy
Expire: 2014-05-30
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Posted: Mon Sep 23, 2013 12:08 pm Post subject: |
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Aanything wrote:
Here http://www.lenshoods.co.uk/ i found some useful cutouts for making cardboard hoods, maybe you'll find one that suits your needs. _________________ C&C and editing of my pics are always welcome
Samples from my lenses
My gear
My Flickr |
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DR.JUAN
Joined: 08 Feb 2013 Posts: 661
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Posted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 2:48 pm Post subject: |
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DR.JUAN wrote:
If the overcast sky or the white wall are into the pic, you can do almost nothing, except change the angle of view or subexpose by one aperture. Not magic can applicate here.
Perhaps you have to ask yourself if the pic wanted really needs that point of view or can be changed.
If you can't change it, remember than a lens with less elements should suffer a less internal reflections. May be usefull. |
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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5044 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Wed Oct 23, 2013 12:57 pm Post subject: |
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kansalliskala wrote:
DR.JUAN wrote: |
Perhaps you have to ask yourself if the pic wanted really needs that point of view or can be changed. |
Sometimes one can't change the view. I'm not going there with that European Bison.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/European_bison
_________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 11059 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Sat Oct 26, 2013 11:37 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Blacken edges of lens elements & inside of lens body. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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David
Joined: 13 Apr 2011 Posts: 1869 Location: Denver, Colorado
Expire: 2013-01-25
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Posted: Sun Oct 27, 2013 6:40 am Post subject: |
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David wrote:
Can you change where you're shooting from? If you can shoot from shade (under a tree or bridge are both good options I like) then your flare issues will resolve quickly. _________________ http://www.youtube.com/user/hancockDavidM |
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