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Orio's quick guide to lens apertures
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 4:27 am    Post subject: Orio's quick guide to lens apertures Reply with quote
OK, this thread is mostly a joke so don't take it seriously. Wink

Of course lens and aperture are always a singularity - every lens has it's own performance with regards to aperture steps and it's impossible to make a general statement that is always true.

However, since I want to play this game Laughing here's my own guide steps to apertures, which represent, coarsely, my lens use:

F/ 1.2, 1.4 = these are my "mood" apertures - whenever I want to make the emotional content to prevail completely over the exactness;

F/ 2 = this is my "female portrait" aperture. Works great as cat portrait aperture as well Very Happy

F/ 2.8 to F/ 4 = my "3D effect" apertures Wink ;
also good for live events when using tele lenses (slow enough to give some DOF and usually manageable with fast shooting times during most of the day)

F/ 5.6 = my "best sharpness" aperture, ideal for male portraits, old people portraits, natural objects, macro subjects that are not too deep and landscapes that are not too wide;

F/ 8 = my "standard landscape" aperture - not really sharper than F/5.6 but often more planar (centre-corners equality). it is also my "snapshot" aperture when I shoot street and events with a wide angle lens.

F/ 11 and above = my "deep object macro apertures" for objects like trunks that are deep in depth and need to be in focus in all the points. You sacrifice some sharpness (diffraction) for the sake of the depth of field.
Sometimes I also use these extreme apertures in landscape and architecture, when to have everything in focus is more important than the absolute sharpness of the images.

OK so now you know my secrets Laughing which are not really secrets Laughing Rolling Eyes but anyway Very Happy

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Last edited by Orio on Tue Feb 23, 2010 4:40 am; edited 4 times in total


PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 4:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
I like it, esp as Im a new shooter of two years going.
thanks Very Happy


PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 4:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Interesting....... sometime"female portrait" needs "3D effect" apertures. Smile
Mike


PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 4:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
I've always wondered what the ring with the small numbers were for Wink

Great stuff!! I should print it on a small card and stick it on my cameras.


PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 4:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
That also explains why my lady does not like "standard landscape" aperture when shoot her. Wink


PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 6:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Cool Orio Smile Smile


patrickh


PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 6:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Very practical and logical!

This is mine:

F1.2/1.4/max = why I bought the lens, always used.

F2-22 = used when I forget my ND filter or when I accidentally twist the aperture ring while mounting the lens.

Laughing


PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 7:03 am    Post subject: Re: Orio's quick guide to lens apertures Reply with quote
Thanks Orio, I agree to most of it.

Orio wrote:
You sacrifice some sharpness (diffraction) for the sake of the depth of field.
Sometimes I also use these extreme apertures in landscape and architecture, when to have everything in focus is more important than the absolute sharpness of the images.


Does this apply only to digital or Film as well?


PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 8:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
That's a good guide but distance from subject, focal length and the format that the image is being recorded on all affect DOF.

I seem to use 3 apertures quite a lot; F11 for large DOF on normal to wide lenses, F5.6 on longer lenses to isolate subjects and wide open on normal fast lenses for shallow DOF.


PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 9:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
martinsmith99 wrote:
That's a good guide but distance from subject, focal length and the format that the image is being recorded on all affect DOF.


Yes of course, like I wrote, don't take it seriously Smile


PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 9:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Wilson wrote:
I've always wondered what the ring with the small numbers were for

Laughing
new AF lens have fixed this problem


PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 9:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Useful Orio, thanks. I'm envious you don't need to think about lighting conditions in sunny Italy! Razz


PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 10:24 am    Post subject: Re: Orio's quick guide to lens apertures Reply with quote
Great guide Orio, exactly what I do.

Shiladitya wrote:

Orio wrote:
You sacrifice some sharpness (diffraction) for the sake of the depth of field.
Sometimes I also use these extreme apertures in landscape and architecture, when to have everything in focus is more important than the absolute sharpness of the images.


Does this apply only to digital or Film as well?


Yes, of course. It's a compromise, but sometimes it's the only way to create good near & far compositions in landscape photography.


PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
You need to copy this and display as a public service announcement.... Laughing


PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
The most infamous of all = 22 aka "must clean the sensor [next time]" ..


PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
If you use all auto mode and full auto lenses and cameras this is the way to get away from that "Lazy" way and explore photography in a new way. I very seldom go full auto as I grew up doing all manual and full auto makes me feel as if I left something out of the photo....Like maybe my physical and mental input. Thanks for the look into how you do it Orio.


PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 2:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Big Dawg wrote:
I grew up doing all manual and full auto makes me feel as if I left something out of the photo....Like maybe my physical and mental input.

Brilliant! Very Happy


PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 2:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
peterqd wrote:
Useful Orio, thanks. I'm envious you don't need to think about lighting conditions in sunny Italy! Razz


Neither do we - I'm shooting at rainy 2.8 Laughing


PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 2:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
peterqd wrote:
Useful Orio, thanks. I'm envious you don't need to think about lighting conditions in sunny Italy! Razz


We have our share of dull days too Wink like today Sad


PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 3:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I use wide open outdoors, when shooting just for fun. Maybe one click for sharpness. Studio strobes situation= f10-f20, and long lens if you want bokeh


PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I found this is an excellent guide, thank you!


PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 3:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Good guidelines, thanks.


PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Your words make sense, Orio.

Let's see, when do I use the different apertures?

f/1.2 and f/1.4: For special effects (narrow DoF) and real low light.

f/1.8 to f/2.8: Favourite settings for indoor portraits and ambient shots.

f/4 to f/5.6: Favourite settings for (general) outdoor shots.

f/8 to f/11: Settings for shots with deepest DoF. Rarely used.

higher than f/11: Hardly ever use that. (Just shows the dirt on the sensor that I don't want to see. Wink)


PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 4:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Orio,

I supposed when you are using longer lens, say 50 or 85, you will be stopping down to 5.6 or beyond to get the equivalent DOF for 3Dness? Or are these focal length too difficult to achieve that effect?


PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 4:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
aleksanderpolo wrote:
Orio,

I supposed when you are using longer lens, say 50 or 85, you will be stopping down to 5.6 or beyond to get the equivalent DOF for 3Dness? Or are these focal length too difficult to achieve that effect?


It is more difficult with a tele rightly because you have less DOF.
Not impossible, but harder.
A lot depends not only on the aperture but also on the physical distances between objects, and the lighting, composition, etc.
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