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ffureel
Joined: 20 Jun 2008 Posts: 29
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Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 9:47 am Post subject: Old lenses only sharp in the centre? |
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ffureel wrote:
Ok now I have your attention.
I have a helios 40... Only sharp in the very centre at f/1.5, no surprise, and I like it.
How about the flektogon 35mm 2.4? I am wondering what the general performance of this lens is?
my one is only really sharp in the centre maybe 50%, at all apertures. Is this lens supposed the be sharp corner to corner? |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 10:14 am Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
I think there must be something wrong with your lens. This was taken with the Flek 2.4/35
[edit: better example] _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 10:38 am Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
Unfortunately the Flek 2.4/35 depends much from copy variations.
A good copy should have good corners, except wide open where corners are a little weak - I am speaking of full frame camera, on an APS-C camera you should not notice that.
If your copy has poor corners at all apertures, then it is an unlucky copy, I am afraid.
Would you like to post samples with 100% crops of the corners? Of course that would help us in giving an opinion. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 10:44 am Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
Yes, but even a poor copy would improve as the aperture is closed wouldn't it? Does it look like the lens may have been dismantled? (e.g. paint missing from screwslots etc) _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 10:51 am Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
peterqd wrote: |
Yes, but even a poor copy would improve as the aperture is closed wouldn't it? Does it look like the lens may have been dismantled? (e.g. paint missing from screwslots etc) |
A really poor copy would not. I had a terrible Flek 2.8/20, it was muddy in the corners even at f/8.
Corners became acceptable only at f/11 but then the centre would start to lose detail due to refraction.
Needless to say I sold it immediately.
It is really a matter of good or bad luck with Fleks, especially the most recent ones (black barrel with orange writings) have lots of copy variance.
My current copy of Flek 2.8/20 is excellent (although I still prefer the 4/20)
Older Fleks (pre-zebra) seem to be the best, I have five 4/20 (one orange, two zebras, one leatherette, one with bumps), and the best one is the oldest one (with the bumps). _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 10:55 am Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
I wanted to add, about the very subject, take a look at the corners of the Canon L wide zooms (those costing many hundreds, or even a thousand), you will see that bad corners are not exclusive "quality" of old lenses _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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ffureel
Joined: 20 Jun 2008 Posts: 29
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Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 2:17 pm Post subject: |
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ffureel wrote:
Ok here is the full image, resized so you can still see what is going on. No need for 100% crops as you can see what is going on. This is shot on 5d, flek at 2.8. Lens it self looks in good condition, may have been took apart carefully. Who knows.
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ffureel
Joined: 20 Jun 2008 Posts: 29
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Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 2:18 pm Post subject: |
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ffureel wrote:
The forum board made the file smaller than I intended. Though, it is not even the corners, if you look at the edges too. On the plane of focus, sharpness drops off really quick from the centre. |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 2:53 pm Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
Very bad copy, no doubt about it.
I'm sorry
You can resell it (but you will get little money because of the fault), or, you can give it to a lens laboratory for fixing, but with the risk that you might have to spend money and they may not be able to fix the problem satisfactorily.
Unless you know a very good and trusted lens doctor, I suggest to sell the copy and add the little money that you get from it, to another money, and buy another copy of the lens, preferably from a trusted seller like Attila. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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maddog10
Joined: 08 Apr 2008 Posts: 1072 Location: Maryland, USA
Expire: 2015-02-12
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Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 3:07 pm Post subject: |
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maddog10 wrote:
Here is a full frame version (resized for web) from the copy I got from Attila. This is stopped down a step or two.
_________________ Michael Hill |
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ffureel
Joined: 20 Jun 2008 Posts: 29
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Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 3:10 pm Post subject: |
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ffureel wrote:
Really, oh man.
I have been using it for a good while. I guess it helps that I do not shoot landscapes or anything that really requires more than just the centre in sharpness.
What would the problem be? Any chance I could take it apart and fiddle with some screws?
I mean this is from the same lens, and in this example looks good.
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 3:36 pm Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
It most probably is a glass misalignment.
If you are not sure, make more tests, set the camera on a tripod, focus to infinite and make 3-4 shots at different apertures, then focus on a near subject and make again 34 shots at the same apertures than before. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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estudleon
Joined: 15 May 2008 Posts: 3754 Location: Argentina
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Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 3:56 pm Post subject: |
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estudleon wrote:
[quote="Orio"][quote="peterqd"]Yes, but even a poor copy would improve as the aperture is closed wouldn't it? Does it look like the lens may have been dismantled? (e.g. paint missing from screwslots etc)[/quote]
A really poor copy would not. I had a terrible Flek 2.8/20, it was muddy in the corners even at f/8.
Corners became acceptable only at f/11 but then the centre would start to lose detail due to refraction.
Needless to say I sold it immediately.
It is really a matter of good or bad luck with Fleks, especially the most recent ones (black barrel with orange writings) have lots of copy variance.
My current copy of Flek 2.8/20 is excellent (although I still prefer the 4/20)
Older Fleks (pre-zebra) seem to be the best, I have five 4/20 (one orange, two zebras, one leatherette, one with bumps), and the best one is the oldest one (with the bumps).[/quote]
Orio, I agree with you.
I have an old 20/4 Flekt. (no. 6.893.021) leatherette with fungus in the interior surface of the external lens, with billions of lines in the external surface - back lenses OK., and is sharp at F/11 and 16, may be F/8 too - corners so-so at F/8.
My wife had a 20/4 too, a zebra ones, and mine match her lens. _________________ Konica 2,8/100
CZJ: 4/20, 2,4/35, 1,8/50 aus jena, 3,5/135MC, Pentacon 1,8/50
Pentax S-M-C-1,4/50
Helios 44-3
Mamiya 2,8/135
Misc. : jupiter 9
Stuff used:
A) SRL
Alpa 10 D - kern macro Switar 1,9/50 -black, Kilffit apochromat 2/100.
Asahi pentax spotmatic super takumar 1,4/50
Contaflex super B tessar 2,8/50 Pro-tessar 115
Leica R3 electronic summicron 2/50 elmarit 2,8/35
Konica Autoreflex 3 (2 black and chrome one), TC, T4. 2,8/24, 3,5/28 not MC and MC, 1,8/40, 1,4/50, 1,7/50 MC and not MC, 1,8/85, 3,2/135, 3,5/135, 4/200
Minolta XG9 2,8/35, 2/45, 3,5/135
Nikkormat FTn 1,4/50, 2,8/135
Fujica ST 801, 605, 705n. 3,5/19, 1,4/50, 1,8/55, 4/85, 3,5/135.
Praktica MTL 5 and a lot of M42 lenses.
Voigtlander. Bessamatic m, bessamatix de luxe, bessamatic cs, ultramatic and ultramatic cs.
Skoparex 3,5/35, skopagon 2/40, skopar 2,8/50, skopar X 2,8/50, super lanthar (out of catalogue) 2,8/50, dinarex 3,4/90, dinarex 4,8/100, super dinarex 4/135, super dinarex 4/200, zoomar 2,8/36-83, portrait lens 0, 1 and 2. Curtagon 4/28 and 2,8/35
Canon AV1, 1,8/50
Rolleiflex SL35 and SL35 E. 2,8/35 angulon, 2,8/35 distagon, 1,4/55 rolleinar, 1,8/50 planar, 4/135 tessar, 2,8/135 rolleinar, x2 rollei, M42 to rollei adap.
Etc.
RF
Yashica Minister III
Voightlander Vito, vitomatic I, Vito C, etc.
Leica M. M2, M3 (d.s.) and M4. Schenider 3,4/21, 2/35 summaron 2,8/35 (with eyes). Summicron 2/35 (8 elements with eyes), 2/35 chrome, 2/35 black, 1,4/35 pre asph and aspheric - old -, 2/40 summicron, 2,8/50 elmar, 2/50 7 elements, 2/50 DR, 2/50 - minolta version, 1,4/50 summilux 1966 version, 1,4/75 summilux, 2/90 large version, 2/90 reduced version of 1987, 2,8/90 elmarit large version, 4/135 elmar. |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 4:45 pm Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
ffureel wrote: |
What would the problem be? Any chance I could take it apart and fiddle with some screws? |
It's difficult to decide from your picture about the edges because they are at a different distance from the main subject, so would be out of focus anyway, especially when the aperture is wide open. Before you start fiddling with it, is it possible to see a full frame picture with the aperture closed down to f/8 or above? A picture of a flat flat surface like a wall about 4m away with some detail to focus upon would be more useful than a scene.
The reason I asked if you could see if it had been opened is because someone may have seated an element off centre or even put one back the wrong way round. Retaining rings can work loose on their own sometimes too. There aren't any other screws inside that would affect image quality but they could affect the actual focus distance compared to the distance on the lens scale. If you are not referring to the distance scale this wouldn't be relevant. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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zewrak
Joined: 12 Apr 2008 Posts: 1212
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Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 6:29 pm Post subject: |
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zewrak wrote:
ffureel wrote: |
Ok here is the full image, resized so you can still see what is going on. No need for 100% crops as you can see what is going on. This is shot on 5d, flek at 2.8. Lens it self looks in good condition, may have been took apart carefully. Who knows.
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On a sidenote, I love that picture as it is. _________________ My homepage, all manual shots |
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ChrisLilley
Joined: 01 Jan 2008 Posts: 1767 Location: Nice, France
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Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 7:06 pm Post subject: OT quote test |
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ChrisLilley wrote:
estudleon wrote: |
Orio wrote: |
peterqd wrote: |
Yes, but even a poor copy would improve as the aperture is closed wouldn't it? Does it look like the lens may have been dismantled? (e.g. paint missing from screwslots etc) |
A really poor copy would not. I had a terrible Flek 2.8/20, it was muddy in the corners even at f/8.
Corners became acceptable only at f/11 but then the centre would start to lose detail due to refraction.
Needless to say I sold it immediately.
It is really a matter of good or bad luck with Fleks, especially the most recent ones (black barrel with orange writings) have lots of copy variance.
My current copy of Flek 2.8/20 is excellent (although I still prefer the 4/20)
Older Fleks (pre-zebra) seem to be the best, I have five 4/20 (one orange, two zebras, one leatherette, one with bumps), and the best one is the oldest one (with the bumps). |
Orio, I agree with you.
I have an old 20/4 Flekt. (no. 6.893.021) leatherette with fungus in the interior surface of the external lens, with billions of lines in the external surface - back lenses OK., and is sharp at F/11 and 16, may be F/8 too - corners so-so at F/8.
My wife had a 20/4 too, a zebra ones, and mine match her lens. |
This is a test to see why, when estudleon posts, the phpbb markup shows. and when quoted, it fixes itself again. _________________ Camera (ˈkæ mə rə), n. Device for taking pictures in bright light
There are 10 kinds of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don’t. Key: Ai-P, Ai, Ai'ed, AiS
Camera: Nikon D90, D40, DK-21M eyepiece, ML-3 remote MF lenses: Nikkor 20mm f/4 K, AI'ed | N.K. Nikkor-N 24mm f/2.8 | Nikkor-N.C 24mm f/2.8 | Nikkor 28mm f/2.8 AiS late model | Арсенал (Arsenal) Мир-24Н (Mir-24N) 35mm f/2 | Cosina Voigtländer Ultron SL II 40mm f/2.0 | Micro-Nikkor 55mm f/2.8 AiS | Zoom-Nikkor 80-200 f/4.5 Ai | ЛЗОС (LZOS) Юпитер-9 (Jupiter-9) 85mm f/2 | Cosina Voigtländer APO-Lanthar 90mm f/3.5 SL | Nikkor-P 105mm f/2.5 pre-Ai, Ai'ed | Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/4 | Schneider Kreuznach Componon 105mm f/5.6 | Nikkor 135mm f/2.8, Ai'ed 1976 model | Nikkor 180mm f/2.8 ED AiS | Арсенал (Arsenal) ТЕЛЕАР-Н (Telear-n) 200mm f/3.5 | Nikkor 300 mm f/4.5 Ai (full equipment list) |
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Nesster
Joined: 24 Apr 2008 Posts: 5883 Location: NJ, USA
Expire: 2014-02-20
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Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 7:12 pm Post subject: |
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Nesster wrote:
Yes, you can always sell it as a super Lensbaby
It does seem like an element is out of its place or reversed. _________________ -Jussi
Camera photos
Print Photographica
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lauge
Joined: 14 Jun 2008 Posts: 101 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Expire: 2013-05-30
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Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 8:09 pm Post subject: |
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lauge wrote:
...or bad case of fungus? Does it look clean when you look throu it? _________________ M42:
S-M-C Takumar: 3.5/28 1.4/50 2.8/105
USSR: Industar 61L/Z
CZJ: Flektogon 2.4/35
MD:
Rokkor: 35-70/3.5
Kiron: 2.8/105 Macro
OM:
Zuiko: 50/1.8 75-150/4
Sigma: 24/2.8
Cameras:
Asahi Spotmatic F (looking for a sample with working light meter)
Olympus OM-1
Zeiss Ikon Contaflex IV
NEX 7 Sony A55 Konica Minolta Dynax 5D Minolta Dynax 7 Minolta AF 7000 |
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estudleon
Joined: 15 May 2008 Posts: 3754 Location: Argentina
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Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 10:48 pm Post subject: |
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estudleon wrote:
[quote="Nesster"]Yes, you can always sell it as a super Lensbaby
It does seem like an element is out of its place or reversed.[/quote]
I agree, but looking carefully the pics I chose the thesis that the element/s are reversed. If the element/s were out of place, not sharp focus in the center is possible. And if we name the misaligned element as "out of place", one border have to be sharp (or near it) and the other in front of the first border have to be more or minus in focus but not in the same way, depend of the + o - differences that the misaligned cause in the position of the element. _________________ Konica 2,8/100
CZJ: 4/20, 2,4/35, 1,8/50 aus jena, 3,5/135MC, Pentacon 1,8/50
Pentax S-M-C-1,4/50
Helios 44-3
Mamiya 2,8/135
Misc. : jupiter 9
Stuff used:
A) SRL
Alpa 10 D - kern macro Switar 1,9/50 -black, Kilffit apochromat 2/100.
Asahi pentax spotmatic super takumar 1,4/50
Contaflex super B tessar 2,8/50 Pro-tessar 115
Leica R3 electronic summicron 2/50 elmarit 2,8/35
Konica Autoreflex 3 (2 black and chrome one), TC, T4. 2,8/24, 3,5/28 not MC and MC, 1,8/40, 1,4/50, 1,7/50 MC and not MC, 1,8/85, 3,2/135, 3,5/135, 4/200
Minolta XG9 2,8/35, 2/45, 3,5/135
Nikkormat FTn 1,4/50, 2,8/135
Fujica ST 801, 605, 705n. 3,5/19, 1,4/50, 1,8/55, 4/85, 3,5/135.
Praktica MTL 5 and a lot of M42 lenses.
Voigtlander. Bessamatic m, bessamatix de luxe, bessamatic cs, ultramatic and ultramatic cs.
Skoparex 3,5/35, skopagon 2/40, skopar 2,8/50, skopar X 2,8/50, super lanthar (out of catalogue) 2,8/50, dinarex 3,4/90, dinarex 4,8/100, super dinarex 4/135, super dinarex 4/200, zoomar 2,8/36-83, portrait lens 0, 1 and 2. Curtagon 4/28 and 2,8/35
Canon AV1, 1,8/50
Rolleiflex SL35 and SL35 E. 2,8/35 angulon, 2,8/35 distagon, 1,4/55 rolleinar, 1,8/50 planar, 4/135 tessar, 2,8/135 rolleinar, x2 rollei, M42 to rollei adap.
Etc.
RF
Yashica Minister III
Voightlander Vito, vitomatic I, Vito C, etc.
Leica M. M2, M3 (d.s.) and M4. Schenider 3,4/21, 2/35 summaron 2,8/35 (with eyes). Summicron 2/35 (8 elements with eyes), 2/35 chrome, 2/35 black, 1,4/35 pre asph and aspheric - old -, 2/40 summicron, 2,8/50 elmar, 2/50 7 elements, 2/50 DR, 2/50 - minolta version, 1,4/50 summilux 1966 version, 1,4/75 summilux, 2/90 large version, 2/90 reduced version of 1987, 2,8/90 elmarit large version, 4/135 elmar. |
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ffureel
Joined: 20 Jun 2008 Posts: 29
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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 11:31 am Post subject: |
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ffureel wrote:
So from the analysis I will assume a reversed element? it is sharp in the centre yes and the edges are equally blurry on all sides. There is no fungus, well what does fungus look like? Though I can definitely see the internal optics are really clear.
I have a suspicion that the lens is worse than when i got it. I can not be sure though. I never noticed this before. Then again i normally never take photos where I have everything on the plane of focus from right to left. Normally have a face perhaps in the middle, the rest is normally background blur.
What is the best way to test a lens sharpness? I will do that and post the results, the brick wall should probably work.
I really take care of my stuff, so the lens never gets knocked or anything. So how has this happened?
Are there any instructions on taking apart this lens, is it easy? Will i clearly be able to see a reversed element or anything? |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 12:27 pm Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
ffureel - below is a link to a site showing how to dismantle this lens. Compared to some others this one is not too difficult, but you need to be very careful, patient and methodical. There are tiny springs, screws and ball-bearings that want to jump out and across the room unless you're careful. I can't emphasise enough how important it is to put a cloth on the worktop to stop things rolling and bouncing. And get the right tools before you start - you'll need a set of jeweller's screwdrivers, a rubber grip for the front bezel ring (if necessary) and, in your case, a lens ring spanner.
Wear a pair of tight rubber gloves while you're working, and have a P&S camera, a notepad and pencil handy for taking notes and drawing sketches so you can see how to reassemble it.
You'll also need a diagram of the lens showing the curvature on each face of the different elements, so you can check if one has been put in the wrong way round. CZJ lenses often suffer from sticky aperture blades and I wouldn't be surprised if somebody has already opened this lens to clean them.
Good luck!
CZJ Flek 2.4/35 disassembly instructions _________________ Peter - Moderator
Last edited by peterqd on Wed Jul 09, 2008 2:16 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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ffureel
Joined: 20 Jun 2008 Posts: 29
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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 2:08 pm Post subject: |
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ffureel wrote:
Thankyou, I will give it a go.
Where can I find a lens diagram for the lens? |
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Nesster
Joined: 24 Apr 2008 Posts: 5883 Location: NJ, USA
Expire: 2014-02-20
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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 2:46 pm Post subject: |
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Nesster wrote:
I'd suspect the rear element first by the way, given the sample photos.
Try shooting a flat surface, a rough wall for example, to see how badly the edges go wack. _________________ -Jussi
Camera photos
Print Photographica
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ffureel
Joined: 20 Jun 2008 Posts: 29
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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 3:00 pm Post subject: |
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ffureel wrote:
Thanks,
Got it open.
And found this.
http://www.praktica-users.com/lens/mlenses/czjflek2.4_35.html
Now, is the first piece of glass and the third one at the back. Does it matter what way round they go? They look symettrical? Or is it slightly off? |
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ffureel
Joined: 20 Jun 2008 Posts: 29
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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 6:55 pm Post subject: |
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ffureel wrote:
Took it apart, and got it all back together. Was fairly easy actually. From looking at the diagrams etc, all the elements were in the correct way round. I was not sure about the 1st and 3rdfrom the rear as they look symmetrical. Tried an experiment, flipping them over to see if any differences occured. the 3rd element could only be fitted one way around. And the very last element made very little if any difference either way around.
The only one thing I noticed is that the holder screw ring, that tightens down the 3rd element from the rear was loose. By a few turns. So am assuming that could have affected the results. I will post before and after crops.
It is shaper now, though still think it is pretty soft at the edges. Though I have little experience with these lenses, so have nothing to compare to.
Thing is, will I have to do this for every lens I buy? How will i know everything is properly aligned and tightened if I do not check? To be honest I am not going to check other lenses unless i feel something is wrong.
100% crop. Raw, no sharpening etc. Verdict?
f/2.4 before. centre
f/2.4 after. centre
f/4 before. centre
f/4 after. centre
f/2.4 before. right edge
f/2.4 after. right edge
f/4 before. right edge
f/4 after. right edge
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