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MANUAL MACRO LENS
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2021 6:16 am    Post subject: Re: MANUAL MACRO LENS Reply with quote

Blazer0ne wrote:
Kebuldaj,

This is what you want for 35mm film. Slides might need an IT8 calibration target.

https://www.adorama.com/ipiprmflmxas.html?origterm=primfilm+xas&searchredirect=true


Yes, I was thinking about it, but recently came to conclusion to do slide copying with camera. As I have different slides 35mm and 6x6 medium.

And making this kind of setup has more experimental field, and some new things to learn.

Thanks fo the idea!


PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2021 6:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

e6filmuser wrote:
What you are trying to do is nothing to do with scanning. it is straightforward copying.

Scanning is akin to photocopying, where a document, or image, is copied via a moving lens.


Sorry, it's my mistake, I meant slide copying. English is not my native language, so could be I took wrong term Smile


PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2021 6:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

michelb wrote:
See
https://www.dyxum.com/dforum/finally-did-it-all-my-slides_topic80146_post926073.html?KW=slides#926073

That was my set-up


Nice one!

I also at one moment was thinking about bellows, but now not sure how complicated it is to setup, and maybe it's more usefull if one wants to go far deeper than 1:1 macro, right?


PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2021 6:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jamaeolus wrote:
I can say that the APO rodagon 75mm f4 1:1 will do marvellously well for this as, well, it is designed for it. They can be had for midrange in your budget pretty easily. I think I paid just under 200 for mine but that was after waiting a long time for an auction and apparently not many other folk were on the site at the time.


Enlarging lens is completely new area for me, has no experience with it.. Now recalled that I have somewhere my father's old enlarger lens PZO Janpol Color 55mm or 80mm don't remember exactly, have to check it out..

How easy is to use them on mirrorless camera? Do they need some complicated adapters, bellows and etc. As I see for example some of them have to be reversed as El-Nikkor, some I see as Rodenstock don't have to be reversed..

As they are made for copying task, seems it's best fitting dedicated solution for film copying.. but it's interesting how versatile they are, let's for general macro work?

APO rodagon 75mm f4 sounds interesting.. but somewhere I read they are optimised for 1:1 macro work, if we change the ratio it can degrade quality a bit.. is it true?


PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2021 6:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yoyomaoz wrote:
This page which I recently stumbled upon gives a useful over view of the resolving power of various macro lenses.

http://www.coinimaging.com/Lens_tests.html

Though I seldom shoot macro subjects I do own a few macro lenses of various brands and focal lengths - mainly because they tend to be sharp (by definition) and provide quite good bokeh even when shot at normal ranges.

One that I especially like (and own) is the Micro Nikkor AIS 55mm f2.8. I own this lens and have always thought it to be good. Now that I look at its MTF curves I see why. All I can say is WOW.

http://www.coinimaging.com/nikon_55microais.html


A lens which has a superb performance only at a wide aperture is fine for coin photography but not optimal for general macro.


PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2021 6:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some of the Tamron SP lenses (e.g. 90mm f2.5) were flat field, designed for copying, imaging stamps. etc. A good performance across the frame is what you need.


PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2021 7:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

xaprb wrote:
Again, they can be super nice... but none of them matches my Fujifilm 80mm macro's sharpness. For that matter, I have the Fujifilm-mount version of the Laowa 65mm 2x macro and it also beats every single vintage macro I've used, by an obvious margin. (I think Laowa makes outstanding optics for a very good price. I also love the focusing mechanics of this lens. Genius.)

Here's the list of macros I own. I hope you're sitting down to read this so you don't fall over in surprise Wink Also, if I bid against you in any of these auctions, my apologies...

* Vivitar 90mm f2.8
* Kiron 105mm f2.8
* Zeiss Makro-Planar 100mm f2
* Laowa 65mm f2.8
* Fujifilm 80mm f2.8
* Tamron SP 90mm f2.8, model 72B
* Soligor 100mm f2.8
* Vivitar Series 1 90-180mm f4.5
* Vivitar Series 1 28-90mm f2.8-3.5
* Cosina AF 100mm f3.5 ("plastic fantastic")
* Tokina 100mm f2.8, model M100 Pro D
* SMC Pentax-M 100mm f4
* Vivitar Series 1 105mm f2.5
* Vivitar 135mm f2.8 Close Focusing
* Tokina 90mm f2.5 "Bokina"
* Tamron SP 90mm f2.5, model 52B
* SMC Pentax-M 50mm f4
* Vivitar 55mm f2.8
* Nikon 55mm f2.8 AI-S

My top-list from that list would be the Fuji 80mm, the Laowa 65mm, the Bokina, the Zeiss, and the Nikon -- for different reasons (e.g. some are more versatile for general use like portraiture, some are small, some are gorgeously sharp, some are cheap...) and then I think the rest are honestly pretty similar: not optically astonishing in any particular way, very nice lenses, some not-that-great like the Vivitar 135 close-focus which is notably less sharp... but hard to pick favorites and all worth owning. I suspect most vintage macros are like that.


WOW ! Seems a long list Smile I did not bid on these, so no offence Smile

Yes, I'm sure Fuji 80mm would be fantastic and quite versatile for other subjects, not only slide copying, as it also has stabilisation, longer working distance and etc.. But the thing is price point.. it's about 1100 EUR here.. not sure it's on my budget..

And here I see my thoughts are again back on Laowa 65mm, would not work for fullframe setup, but for current seems perfect.. But Venuslens also has Laowa 100mm f/2.8 2x Ultra Macro APO, how good it can be adapted to current APSC setup? I know, working distance this way will be larger, but could have future-proof version for fullframe use..

Zeiss Makro-Planar 100mm f2 would be also out of budget I think... but interesting how different are Contax/Yashica versions of Makro Planar 60mm 2.8 / S-Planar 60mm 2.8 ? The seem 1:1 macros.

Voigtlander APO-LANTHAR 50mm f/2 Aspherical also seems legenday, but out of the budget unfortunately...

It would be interesting to hear more thoughts on Tokina 90mm f2.5 "Bokina", Nikon 55mm f2.8 AI-S and Kiron 105mm f2.8. What you like/dislike about them? In which scenarios you like to use particular lens and etc.

Thanks!


PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2021 7:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another thing to consider is where you are going to do the copying. It needs to be as dust-free as possible.


PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2021 11:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would someone with macro experience like to hazard an opinion on the Olympus OM 50mm 3.5? I am curious what the general opinion is on it.

Regards, C.


PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2021 12:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

connloyalist wrote:
Would someone with macro experience like to hazard an opinion on the Olympus OM 50mm 3.5? I am curious what the general opinion is on it.

Regards, C.


It was very good in its day for film. I own one but have not used it for many years. I have found a succession of legacy lenses to be incrementally better: Tarmron SP 90mm f2.5, Leitz Elmarit 60mm, Kiron 105mm.


PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2021 12:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One thing that the MTF curves don't show is LoCA. I've often gone with one of my 55 Micro Nikkors only to find the CAs unacceptable. You may say that with slide copying, CA is not so important since the subject is a perfectly flat slide, and if that were the case it would be true, but in fact a slide while copying will have some tilt due to fixturing, or mounting, and the result is that one area of the slide will have a magenta hue, while another has a cyan hue. You can see this effect in Mark Goodman's review on coinimaging.com that was linked above, in the face detail photo of the silver coin. Silver is close to true grey, and yet you can see the area in front of Liberty's face has a magenta hue, while her cheek has a cyan hue. You don't want your slides to have these hues, and hence a lens with less LoCA is preferred.

The 75ARD1 I recommended above is indeed a good lens, with low LoCA, but it's not necessarily the "best" lens for this purpose. The best lens for 1:1 is the 105mm Printing-Nikkor, but unfortunately it won't fit in the stated budget. However, there is another lens that will "just fit" the budget...the Nikon 8000/9000ED. The Nikon 8000ED and 9000ED scanners are excellent and would do the job for you, but are of course much more expensive than the stated budget and outside the scope of your request. However, folks have been removing these superb lenses from defunct scanners for macro use, and they are available on used market. For a long time you could get them for ~$100, but now they are more in the $400 range. They are "nearly" as good as the 105PN, so are actually quite a bargain. Superb sharpness and apochromatic correction make these a perfect choice for the application. Nikon thought so as well since they put them in their flagship scanners.


PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2021 1:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ray Parkhurst wrote:
The best lens for 1:1 is the 105mm Printing-Nikkor, but unfortunately it won't fit in the stated budget.


Nor will it do the 6x6s.


PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2021 2:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

e6filmuser wrote:
Ray Parkhurst wrote:
The best lens for 1:1 is the 105mm Printing-Nikkor, but unfortunately it won't fit in the stated budget.


Nor will it do the 6x6s.


It has a 62mm image circle, so the corners will be soft. Which lenses in the list above will do 6x6? I didn't know 6x6 was a requirement for the OP. I only saw reference to 35mm as a max.


PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2021 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ray Parkhurst wrote:
e6filmuser wrote:
Ray Parkhurst wrote:
The best lens for 1:1 is the 105mm Printing-Nikkor, but unfortunately it won't fit in the stated budget.


Nor will it do the 6x6s.


It has a 62mm image circle, so the corners will be soft. Which lenses in the list above will do 6x6? I didn't know 6x6 was a requirement for the OP. I only saw reference to 35mm as a max.


This was mentioned further up this page:

"As I have different slides 35mm and 6x6 medium".

I missed it at first.


PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2021 2:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

e6filmuser wrote:
Ray Parkhurst wrote:
e6filmuser wrote:
Ray Parkhurst wrote:
The best lens for 1:1 is the 105mm Printing-Nikkor, but unfortunately it won't fit in the stated budget.


Nor will it do the 6x6s.


It has a 62mm image circle, so the corners will be soft. Which lenses in the list above will do 6x6? I didn't know 6x6 was a requirement for the OP. I only saw reference to 35mm as a max.


This was mentioned further up this page:

"As I have different slides 35mm and 6x6 medium".

I missed it at first.


Well, for 6x6 you for sure don't need a 1:1 lens. The CA issues for the 55mm are still a problem, though, and many others on the list have the same problem. In that case I'd probably recommend the 75ARD2 rather than the 75ARD1.


PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2021 2:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

e6filmuser wrote:
Ray Parkhurst wrote:
The best lens for 1:1 is the 105mm Printing-Nikkor, but unfortunately it won't fit in the stated budget.


Nor will it do the 6x6s.


Actually, it will, but that is approaching the limit of its excellent performance and will not be its best.


PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2021 5:05 pm    Post subject: Re: MANUAL MACRO LENS Reply with quote

...

Last edited by Blazer0ne on Tue Feb 22, 2022 5:48 pm; edited 1 time in total


PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2021 5:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As far as I know the Laowa 100mm f2.8 is designed for DSLRs with a longer flange focal distance. It will probably be fine, BUT if you want to be optimally future-proof for a future full-frame camera, I assume you will probably use a mirrorless, and there are macros designed to work better with that shorter flange focal distance. How much image quality difference it will make, is a question for someone smarter than me, but I'm sure it makes a difference to the size and weight of the macro lens, if nothing else.


PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2021 6:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

e6filmuser wrote:
e6filmuser wrote:
Ray Parkhurst wrote:
The best lens for 1:1 is the 105mm Printing-Nikkor, but unfortunately it won't fit in the stated budget.


Nor will it do the 6x6s.


Actually, it will, but that is approaching the limit of its excellent performance and will not be its best.


Unfortunately it is well beyond the limits if doing 6x6 on FF. Both coverage and magnification are outside the design windows.


Last edited by Ray Parkhurst on Mon Aug 23, 2021 9:32 pm; edited 1 time in total


PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2021 6:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kebuldaj wrote:
michelb wrote:
See
https://www.dyxum.com/dforum/finally-did-it-all-my-slides_topic80146_post926073.html?KW=slides#926073

That was my set-up


Nice one!

I also at one moment was thinking about bellows, but now not sure how complicated it is to setup, and maybe it's more usefull if one wants to go far deeper than 1:1 macro, right?


Not complicated to set-up and since i was looking at 1:1 magnification, the bellows is at almost minimum extension ( i could actually see the slide mounts in the viewfinder). This set-up would allow up to about 3X magnification should i want to crop the images.
The biggest issue was getting a glassless adapter since the body is A-Mount (Sony A900) and the bellows is from another era ( Auto Bellows III from circa 1981-1985 in Minolta SR mount that i already had on hand with the necessary accessories).

If your read my post from Dyxum, it took me a couple of days to set-up properly mainly for lighting since with direct flash there was a lot of unneccessary contrast and some glow at the edges of the slides. I had chosen to use the Minolta AF4000 flash since it was the last one that could operate on AC current (with AC-1000 AC adapter) so i used no batteries to take all my around 2600 slides). I was also able to use the original Minolta Bounce Reflector II to soften the light somewhat.


PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2021 2:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just to add to the full frame vs crop sensor discussion, the way I see it, what is most important is sensor resolution. Okay, some may argue that full frame sensor resolution is superior because the sensor is bigger, but I suspect the difference between full frame and APSC is small. So anyway, sensor resolution is very important. Take, for example, a couple of Sonys -- the aII is it? the one with a 24mp resolution sensor? And the NEX 7 (and one or two other APSC unitis) with a 24mp sensor. When exposing the image to the entire frame, this is providing 6000 x 4000 pixels of resolution, which rivals the expensive Nikon Coolscans.

Assuming a lens such as the 55mm f/2..8 Micro Nikkor (my favorite), when using a crop body camera, one will need to add a 1.4x teleconverter somewhere in the light path to boost the image size up to 1:1. When using a full frame camera with this lens, a bellows (or extension tubes) will provide the necessary magnification. Nice thing about a bellows though is many have accessory slide stages that make duping slides simple.

Finally, I think it is important to show just what sort of results one can get with the rig I use, which is the 55mm f/2.8 Micro Nikkor with my NEX 7. Here are a few examples, some of which I've posted here at the forum before.

All slides are Kodachromes. My NEX 7 was set to ISO 100. The 55/2.8 was set to f/8 for the dupes. I used a Nikon SB-24 flash to provide the light for the exposures. Images were reduced to 1600x1000 for posting here.

Beach Rocks, Ventura, California. Canon F-1, Vivitar S1 28-90


Camelia, Canon F-1 and Canon 50mm macro on Kodachrome 25 with Canon Autobellows


Sentimental Jourrney B-17G, Canon F-1, Vivitar S1 28-90


Hollywood Camera Crew, Canon F-1, Vivitar S1 28-90


PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2021 10:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Perhaps off-topic, and I hope it’s OK to mention this, but I just happened to notice a copy of the Vivitar 135mm f/2.8 Close Focus lens on Shop Goodwill. This is one of the “cult classic” Vivitars that is moderately scarce (but not exactly rare) and coveted. I paid $150 for mine. This one’s likely to go for a lot less because nobody seems to have noticed it, and/or a previous owner engraved something on the barrel, but if the lens is in good condition that shouldn’t matter to the photos. It’s being sold by the Seattle arm of Goodwill, and from previous experience I believe their staff know photography equipment pretty well and would mention if there’s an actual problem with the lens.


PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2021 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

xaprb wrote:
Perhaps off-topic, and I hope it’s OK to mention this, but I just happened to notice a copy of the Vivitar 135mm f/2.8 Close Focus lens on Shop Goodwill. This is one of the “cult classic” Vivitars that is moderately scarce (but not exactly rare) and coveted. I paid $150 for mine. This one’s likely to go for a lot less because nobody seems to have noticed it, and/or a previous owner engraved something on the barrel, but if the lens is in good condition that shouldn’t matter to the photos. It’s being sold by the Seattle arm of Goodwill, and from previous experience I believe their staff know photography equipment pretty well and would mention if there’s an actual problem with the lens.


I think that lens doesn't have a flat focal field, like a real macro.


PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2021 12:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

caspert79 wrote:
xaprb wrote:
Perhaps off-topic, and I hope it’s OK to mention this, but I just happened to notice a copy of the Vivitar 135mm f/2.8 Close Focus lens on Shop Goodwill.


I think that lens doesn't have a flat focal field, like a real macro.


I think you’re right. It also only focuses to half life size. Definitely not a real macro, just a close focusing telephoto.


PostPosted: Sat Aug 21, 2021 11:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a copy of the Vivitar CF 135. It may not have a flat field, but honestly I've seen that feature important primarily when shooting flat objects, like photos or documents. Real life is 3D, so if taking pics of items in the real world, not having a flat field isn't gonna matter. As for its 1:2 focusing ability, this doesn't disqualify it from being a macro either. I own at least 8 macro lenses and only one focuses to 1:1. But Vivitar must certainly have been cognisant enough of things, since they're the owns who called it a CF lens.