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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 29545
Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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 Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 5:52 am Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
| Bruce wrote: |
So, Orio, do I shave the same as you have with your first 5d? |
I can't answer, I have not shaved my 5DMkII
In theory it should work the same, but in practice, I don't know.
You really have guts to shave the 5DMkII while it's still under guarantee, I'm not so brave.
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Bruce
Joined: 15 Jan 2008
Posts: 842
Location: Boston, Ma USA
Expire: 2014-11-22
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| Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 2:55 pm Post subject: |
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Bruce wrote:
Hmmmmm, Maybe I shoot my Biotar, and others, with the mirror-up position for the time being. It may not be guts but stupidity to shave the mirror so quickly. 
It does look a relatively easy procedure to do the shaving the way you did it. 
_________________
Digital: Canon 40d & 5DmkII, Film: Hasselblad 203fe/Zeiss 80/2.8 cfe
Adapters for EOS: Cy; M42; Zenit39; Exakta; LeicaR; OlympusOM; PK; Nikon; Rollei35; Retina; Adaptal; P-6 |
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F16SUNSHINE
Joined: 20 Aug 2007
Posts: 5486
Location: Left Coast
Expire: 2011-11-18
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| Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 4:34 pm Post subject: |
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F16SUNSHINE wrote:
| Bruce wrote: |
Hmmmmm, Maybe I shoot my Biotar, and others, with the mirror-up position for the time being. It may not be guts but stupidity to shave the mirror so quickly.
It does look a relatively easy procedure to do the shaving the way you did it. |
You know it should depend on your primary subjects.
If you shoot mostly environmental portraits and such the vf is a must so shave away.
If more macro, landscapes and static subjects use the live view.
I know for me I shaved my 5D (v1) after a few months.
It was still under warranty but, I feel any warranty covered problems surface in the first few months. In other words..... I felt in the clear.
Portait and events are impossibly clumbsy with live view.
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hexi
Joined: 01 Jul 2009
Posts: 1631
Location: France
Expire: 2011-11-18
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| Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 5:26 pm Post subject: |
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hexi wrote:
I thought it was a new post until i saw the OP 
ok congrats and all , but why for have you done this ? ( silly question )
_________________
Happy owner and user of :
SLR's > Contax Aria - RX
DSLR > Canon 5D
Lenses : C/Y Planar 1.4/50 - Distagon 2.8/35 - Planar 1.4/85
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sonnar85 |
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Bruce
Joined: 15 Jan 2008
Posts: 842
Location: Boston, Ma USA
Expire: 2014-11-22
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| Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 7:14 pm Post subject: |
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Bruce wrote:
| F16SUNSHINE wrote: |
I know for me I shaved my 5D (v1) after a few months.
It was still under warranty but, I feel any warranty covered problems surface in the first few months. In other words..... I felt in the clear.
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Yeps, I will be doing the same, wait out a few months for the unexpected, then when I "feel in the clear", I will sand away.
_________________
Digital: Canon 40d & 5DmkII, Film: Hasselblad 203fe/Zeiss 80/2.8 cfe
Adapters for EOS: Cy; M42; Zenit39; Exakta; LeicaR; OlympusOM; PK; Nikon; Rollei35; Retina; Adaptal; P-6 |
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WallyJr74
Joined: 12 Mar 2009
Posts: 146
Location: Canada
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| Posted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 11:19 pm Post subject: |
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WallyJr74 wrote:
I don't have the gut to do it.
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ManualFocus-G
Joined: 29 Dec 2008
Posts: 6622
Location: United Kingdom
Expire: 2014-11-24
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| Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 10:08 am Post subject: |
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ManualFocus-G wrote:
Wow, shaving a 5D mkII? Fair play!
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Shooter of choice: Fujifilm X-T20 with M42, PB and C/Y lenses
See my Flickr photos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/manualfocus-g |
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egidio
Joined: 02 Sep 2009
Posts: 222
Location: slovenia
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| Posted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 2:28 pm Post subject: |
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egidio wrote:
is there any way of shaving 5d mirror without canceling warranty?
For instance is it possible to buy additional mirror and shave it, and than just switch mirrors, an If something goes wrong with the camera you switch back?
_________________
I use: Flektogon 2.8/20, Flektogon 2.8/35, planar 50mm/1.4, Takumar 1.4/50mm, Takumar 1.9/85, MIR 24H, Mir1v, Industar-50-2, Helios-44-2, Pentacon 2.8/135, cyclop 85 1.5 |
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Mal1905
Joined: 30 Oct 2008
Posts: 1705
Location: Dublin, Ireland
Expire: 2011-11-18
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 10:27 am Post subject: |
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Mal1905 wrote:
I started the 5D shaving process on Saturday afternoon - all went really well and things were looking really good until the secondary mirror collapsed 
Followed all the guidelines and was working really carefully and slowly...
Camera still works - the half-photos are no fun though (the bottom part of every image is now black) 
_________________
Canon EOS 5D / EOS 40D
Carl Zeiss Jena: Flektogon 2.8/20, 2.4/35, 2.8/35, Pancolar 2/50, MC 1.8/50, MC 1.8/80, Triotar 4/135, Tessar 2.8/50, S 4/135 1Q, S 3.5/135, Sonnar 3.5/135 MC, 2.8/180, Biotar 2/5,8cm, 2/58, 1.5/75
Carl Zeiss: Distagon 2/28 T*, 1.4/35 T*, Ultron 1.8/50, Tessar 2.8/50, Planar 1.4/50 T* MM, 1.7/50 T* MM, 1.4/85 T* AEG, Sonnar 2.8/135 T*
Asahi Optical Co.: Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 4.5/20, 3.5/24, 3.5/28, 2/35, 3.5/35, 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 1.8/85, 2.8/105, 2.8/120, 2.5/135 I & II, 3.5/135, 4/150, 4/200, 4/300, 5.6/400, 4/45-125, 4.5/85-210, Super-Takumar 4.5/20, 3.5/24, 3.5/28, 2/35, 3.5/35, 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 2/55, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, 4/150, 4/200, 4.5/70-150, Fish-Eye-Takumar 4/17, Macro-Takumar 4/50, Super-Macro Takumar 4/50, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-Takumar 4/50, 4/100, Bellows-Takumar 4/100, Asahi-Kogaku Takumar 3.5/50, 2.4/58, 3.5/100, Asahi-Kogaku Tele-Takumar 3.5/135, Auto-Takumar 2.3/35, 3.5/35, 1.8/55, 1.8/55 (Zebra), 2/55, 2.2/55, 1.8/85, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, Takumar 4/35, 2.2/55, 2/58, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, 3.5/200, 5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 5.6/200, 6.3/300, SMC Takumar 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 2/55, SMC-M 1.4/50, 1.7/50, 2/50
Tomioka: Tominon 2/5cm, Auto-Chinon 3.5/21, 1.4/55, Auto-Yashinon DS-M 1.2/55 |
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Spotmatic
Joined: 18 Aug 2008
Posts: 4045
Location: Netherlands
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 11:12 am Post subject: |
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Spotmatic wrote:
Ouch Mal, that's not fun!
Things like this really make me want a FF camera from Pentax, because there will then be no mirror clearance problems anymore...
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Peter - Moderator
Pentax K-5 + Pentax 645 + Canon 5D + Bessa RF 10,5cm Heliar, and a 'little' bag full of MF lenses. The lens list is * here *.
My fast 80s: Asahi-Kogaku Takumar 83mm f/1.9 - Super-Takumar 85mm f/1.9 - FA 77mm f/1.8 Limited - Cyclop 85/1.5 (Helios-40 innards) - Komura 80mm f/1.8 - Meyer Görlitz Primoplan 7,5cm 1:1.9 - Carl Zeiss Jena 80mm f/1.8 Pancolar - Canon 85mm f/1.8 S.S.C. - Canon 85mm f/1.2 S.S.C. Aspherical |
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Mal1905
Joined: 30 Oct 2008
Posts: 1705
Location: Dublin, Ireland
Expire: 2011-11-18
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 11:25 am Post subject: |
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Mal1905 wrote:
| Spotmatic wrote: |
Ouch Mal, that's not fun!
Things like this really make me want a FF camera from Pentax, because there will then be no mirror clearance problems anymore... |
I hear you 
It's off to the repair-shop today and the guy has agreed to complete the mirror-shave when he's got the body apart which saves me the hassle. I've managed to get a 5D MkII loaner from the Canon distributor as I have some work-related shooting this week, so my panic is over 
Still confused as to how and why it happened though - if anything, I was over-careful when doing the job...
_________________
Canon EOS 5D / EOS 40D
Carl Zeiss Jena: Flektogon 2.8/20, 2.4/35, 2.8/35, Pancolar 2/50, MC 1.8/50, MC 1.8/80, Triotar 4/135, Tessar 2.8/50, S 4/135 1Q, S 3.5/135, Sonnar 3.5/135 MC, 2.8/180, Biotar 2/5,8cm, 2/58, 1.5/75
Carl Zeiss: Distagon 2/28 T*, 1.4/35 T*, Ultron 1.8/50, Tessar 2.8/50, Planar 1.4/50 T* MM, 1.7/50 T* MM, 1.4/85 T* AEG, Sonnar 2.8/135 T*
Asahi Optical Co.: Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 4.5/20, 3.5/24, 3.5/28, 2/35, 3.5/35, 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 1.8/85, 2.8/105, 2.8/120, 2.5/135 I & II, 3.5/135, 4/150, 4/200, 4/300, 5.6/400, 4/45-125, 4.5/85-210, Super-Takumar 4.5/20, 3.5/24, 3.5/28, 2/35, 3.5/35, 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 2/55, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, 4/150, 4/200, 4.5/70-150, Fish-Eye-Takumar 4/17, Macro-Takumar 4/50, Super-Macro Takumar 4/50, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-Takumar 4/50, 4/100, Bellows-Takumar 4/100, Asahi-Kogaku Takumar 3.5/50, 2.4/58, 3.5/100, Asahi-Kogaku Tele-Takumar 3.5/135, Auto-Takumar 2.3/35, 3.5/35, 1.8/55, 1.8/55 (Zebra), 2/55, 2.2/55, 1.8/85, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, Takumar 4/35, 2.2/55, 2/58, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, 3.5/200, 5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 5.6/200, 6.3/300, SMC Takumar 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 2/55, SMC-M 1.4/50, 1.7/50, 2/50
Tomioka: Tominon 2/5cm, Auto-Chinon 3.5/21, 1.4/55, Auto-Yashinon DS-M 1.2/55 |
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poilu
Joined: 26 Aug 2007
Posts: 10472
Location: Greece
Expire: 2019-08-29
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 11:28 am Post subject: |
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poilu wrote:
ouch! I hope your mirror will be reglued promptly to back the whole frame |
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hinnerker
Joined: 17 Aug 2009
Posts: 929
Location: Germany near Kiel
Expire: 2015-08-09
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 1:46 pm Post subject: |
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hinnerker wrote:
| egidio wrote: |
is there any way of shaving 5d mirror without canceling warranty?
For instance is it possible to buy additional mirror and shave it, and than just switch mirrors, an If something goes wrong with the camera you switch back? |
No, not possible,
as reported by Mal1905 there is always a risk in shaving the mirror.
Mostly the submirror hinges are that problem. The hinges break if the pressure on the main mirror is to strong.
What Mal1905 did report sounds like exactly this.
I got the same problem after having a mirror hang with my Carl Zeiss HFT Planar 1.4/50mm. I did take of the lens during the mirror was hanging.
This causes the hinges for the submirror to crash inside the Body.
If you file down the mirror, he must absolutely fixed in one position. If not that could happen as described.
The hanging submirror, which not jumped up with the mirror, makes a part of the picture unexposured.
For two days i decided to shoot with a fixed Submirror (did use Tesa Film for fixing the submirror to the main mirror).
But somedays later i decided to bring the 5D to a Canon Servicepoint for repair. Costs me 200 Euro...
To file down only the mirror and change him, is not possible, because you have to file down a small amoung of the plastic, which is holding the mirror.
Cheers
Henry
_________________
some light-painting lens stuff..
... and an EOS 5D MKII
www.digicamclub.de |
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Mal1905
Joined: 30 Oct 2008
Posts: 1705
Location: Dublin, Ireland
Expire: 2011-11-18
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 2:53 pm Post subject: |
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Mal1905 wrote:
Hi Henry,
The hinges didn't break - the sub-mirror is still attached to the main mirror.
The problem is that the sub-mirror no longer rises when the main one does - which is a bit odd seeing as how the spring for the sub-mirror is still there and is functional - giving me the same problem as you've just described below. I like the idea of fixing it to the main mirror!
Of course, to add insult to injury, when I went to the camera repair shop at lunchtime, I realised that I forgot to put the camera in my backpack!!!
AAAAAHHHHHHHH - another day without the camera - okay, got the Mk II on loan from this evening, but it's not mine 
| hinnerker wrote: |
as reported by Mal1905 there is always a risk in shaving the mirror.
Mostly the submirror hinges are that problem. The hinges break if the pressure on the main mirror is to strong.
What Mal1905 did report sounds like exactly this.
I got the same problem after having a mirror hang with my Carl Zeiss HFT Planar 1.4/50mm. I did take of the lens during the mirror was hanging.
This causes the hinges for the submirror to crash inside the Body.
If you file down the mirror, he must absolutely fixed in one position. If not that could happen as described.
The hanging submirror, which not jumped up with the mirror, makes a part of the picture unexposured.
For two days i decided to shoot with a fixed Submirror (did use Tesa Film for fixing the submirror to the main mirror).
But somedays later i decided to bring the 5D to a Canon Servicepoint for repair. Costs me 200 Euro...
To file down only the mirror and change him, is not possible, because you have to file down a small amoung of the plastic, which is holding the mirror.
Cheers
Henry |
_________________
Canon EOS 5D / EOS 40D
Carl Zeiss Jena: Flektogon 2.8/20, 2.4/35, 2.8/35, Pancolar 2/50, MC 1.8/50, MC 1.8/80, Triotar 4/135, Tessar 2.8/50, S 4/135 1Q, S 3.5/135, Sonnar 3.5/135 MC, 2.8/180, Biotar 2/5,8cm, 2/58, 1.5/75
Carl Zeiss: Distagon 2/28 T*, 1.4/35 T*, Ultron 1.8/50, Tessar 2.8/50, Planar 1.4/50 T* MM, 1.7/50 T* MM, 1.4/85 T* AEG, Sonnar 2.8/135 T*
Asahi Optical Co.: Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 4.5/20, 3.5/24, 3.5/28, 2/35, 3.5/35, 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 1.8/85, 2.8/105, 2.8/120, 2.5/135 I & II, 3.5/135, 4/150, 4/200, 4/300, 5.6/400, 4/45-125, 4.5/85-210, Super-Takumar 4.5/20, 3.5/24, 3.5/28, 2/35, 3.5/35, 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 2/55, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, 4/150, 4/200, 4.5/70-150, Fish-Eye-Takumar 4/17, Macro-Takumar 4/50, Super-Macro Takumar 4/50, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-Takumar 4/50, 4/100, Bellows-Takumar 4/100, Asahi-Kogaku Takumar 3.5/50, 2.4/58, 3.5/100, Asahi-Kogaku Tele-Takumar 3.5/135, Auto-Takumar 2.3/35, 3.5/35, 1.8/55, 1.8/55 (Zebra), 2/55, 2.2/55, 1.8/85, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, Takumar 4/35, 2.2/55, 2/58, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, 3.5/200, 5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 5.6/200, 6.3/300, SMC Takumar 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 2/55, SMC-M 1.4/50, 1.7/50, 2/50
Tomioka: Tominon 2/5cm, Auto-Chinon 3.5/21, 1.4/55, Auto-Yashinon DS-M 1.2/55 |
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hinnerker
Joined: 17 Aug 2009
Posts: 929
Location: Germany near Kiel
Expire: 2015-08-09
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 3:22 pm Post subject: |
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hinnerker wrote:
| Mal1905 wrote: |
Hi Henry,
The hinges didn't break - the sub-mirror is still attached to the main mirror.
The problem is that the sub-mirror no longer rises when the main one does - which is a bit odd seeing as how the spring for the sub-mirror is still there and is functional - giving me the same problem as you've just described below. I like the idea of fixing it to the main mirror!
Of course, to add insult to injury, when I went to the camera repair shop at lunchtime, I realised that I forgot to put the camera in my backpack!!!
AAAAAHHHHHHHH - another day without the camera - okay, got the Mk II on loan from this evening, but it's not mine
| hinnerker wrote: |
as reported by Mal1905 there is always a risk in shaving the mirror.
Mostly the submirror hinges are that problem. The hinges break if the pressure on the main mirror is to strong.
What Mal1905 did report sounds like exactly this.
I got the same problem after having a mirror hang with my Carl Zeiss HFT Planar 1.4/50mm. I did take of the lens during the mirror was hanging.
This causes the hinges for the submirror to crash inside the Body.
If you file down the mirror, he must absolutely fixed in one position. If not that could happen as described.
The hanging submirror, which not jumped up with the mirror, makes a part of the picture unexposured.
For two days i decided to shoot with a fixed Submirror (did use Tesa Film for fixing the submirror to the main mirror).
But somedays later i decided to bring the 5D to a Canon Servicepoint for repair. Costs me 200 Euro...
To file down only the mirror and change him, is not possible, because you have to file down a small amoung of the plastic, which is holding the mirror.
Cheers
Henry |
|
Hi Mal,
i know, the submirror of my cam was also still attached on their hinges on the main mirror. A little leading plastic which goes into the Body was broken.. thats what i did mean with hinges.. dont know the exact english expression for that little piece of plastik. Its located on right side of the mirror housing. Not the hinges of the submirrors itself.. the side guidance.. which brings up the submirror in relation to the main mirror movement.
There is a small nose in the right sidewall, which flips the submirror up.. this little plastic was broken..
To fix the submirror on the main mirror with tape, disables the complete autofocus-section so you can use the cam only in REAL - MF Mode with only the focus screen and without any confirmation..
Cheers
_________________
some light-painting lens stuff..
... and an EOS 5D MKII
www.digicamclub.de
Last edited by hinnerker on Mon Nov 30, 2009 3:29 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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Mal1905
Joined: 30 Oct 2008
Posts: 1705
Location: Dublin, Ireland
Expire: 2011-11-18
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 3:28 pm Post subject: |
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Mal1905 wrote:
Thanks for clearing up my confusion Henry - I genuinely thought I was going mad!!! I looked into the mirror-box but nothing seemed to have broken or snapped, but what you say now makes total sense to me. I can picture the sidewall you mentioned, and from memory, can see how there had to have been something there to guide the sub-mirror as required.
Now you've got me thinking about whether or not I'll get the repair done at all - I only ever use manual focus (even with my EF 24-70 L lens), and it's rarely on the camera these days (which is exactly why I sold off all my other EF glass...), so do I really need to drop €200.00 +/_ at this stage???
Again, my thanks for this invaluable tip
| hinnerker wrote: |
Hi Mal,
i know, the submirror was also still attached in their hinges on the main mirror. A little leading plastic which goes into the Body was broken.. thats what i did mean with hinges.. dont know the exact english expression for that little piece of plastik. Its located on right side of the mirror housing. Not the hinges of the submirrors itself.. the side guidance.. which brings up the submirror in relation to the main mirror movement.
There is a small nose in the right sidewall, which flips the submirror up.. this little plastic was broken..
To fix the submirror on the main mirror with tape, disables the complete autofocus-section so you can use the cam only in REAL - MF Mode with only the focus screnn an without confirmation..
Cheers |
_________________
Canon EOS 5D / EOS 40D
Carl Zeiss Jena: Flektogon 2.8/20, 2.4/35, 2.8/35, Pancolar 2/50, MC 1.8/50, MC 1.8/80, Triotar 4/135, Tessar 2.8/50, S 4/135 1Q, S 3.5/135, Sonnar 3.5/135 MC, 2.8/180, Biotar 2/5,8cm, 2/58, 1.5/75
Carl Zeiss: Distagon 2/28 T*, 1.4/35 T*, Ultron 1.8/50, Tessar 2.8/50, Planar 1.4/50 T* MM, 1.7/50 T* MM, 1.4/85 T* AEG, Sonnar 2.8/135 T*
Asahi Optical Co.: Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 4.5/20, 3.5/24, 3.5/28, 2/35, 3.5/35, 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 1.8/85, 2.8/105, 2.8/120, 2.5/135 I & II, 3.5/135, 4/150, 4/200, 4/300, 5.6/400, 4/45-125, 4.5/85-210, Super-Takumar 4.5/20, 3.5/24, 3.5/28, 2/35, 3.5/35, 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 2/55, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, 4/150, 4/200, 4.5/70-150, Fish-Eye-Takumar 4/17, Macro-Takumar 4/50, Super-Macro Takumar 4/50, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-Takumar 4/50, 4/100, Bellows-Takumar 4/100, Asahi-Kogaku Takumar 3.5/50, 2.4/58, 3.5/100, Asahi-Kogaku Tele-Takumar 3.5/135, Auto-Takumar 2.3/35, 3.5/35, 1.8/55, 1.8/55 (Zebra), 2/55, 2.2/55, 1.8/85, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, Takumar 4/35, 2.2/55, 2/58, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, 3.5/200, 5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 5.6/200, 6.3/300, SMC Takumar 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 2/55, SMC-M 1.4/50, 1.7/50, 2/50
Tomioka: Tominon 2/5cm, Auto-Chinon 3.5/21, 1.4/55, Auto-Yashinon DS-M 1.2/55 |
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hinnerker
Joined: 17 Aug 2009
Posts: 929
Location: Germany near Kiel
Expire: 2015-08-09
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 4:10 pm Post subject: |
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hinnerker wrote:
I did find an image of the problem some month ago..
there is a little fork on the right side as Rainer Höhnle told, a guy from another forum, who is specialist in repairing Canon cams.., the fork is the side guidance... but it could also be the axis of the guidance fork.
The same happens with some old 300D cams often.
To repair this, you have to open the whole body.. !!
Thats, why its so expensive to repair.
Cheers
Henry
_________________
some light-painting lens stuff..
... and an EOS 5D MKII
www.digicamclub.de |
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Mal1905
Joined: 30 Oct 2008
Posts: 1705
Location: Dublin, Ireland
Expire: 2011-11-18
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 4:38 pm Post subject: |
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Mal1905 wrote:
Thanks yet again Henry - I'm now much happier and may have even saved some money too - my wife may be getting a Christmas present after all
Will finish off the mirror-shave tonight and tape up the sub-mirror.
And, of course, will report back on any significant findings along the way!
| hinnerker wrote: |
| I did find an image of the problem some month ago.. |
_________________
Canon EOS 5D / EOS 40D
Carl Zeiss Jena: Flektogon 2.8/20, 2.4/35, 2.8/35, Pancolar 2/50, MC 1.8/50, MC 1.8/80, Triotar 4/135, Tessar 2.8/50, S 4/135 1Q, S 3.5/135, Sonnar 3.5/135 MC, 2.8/180, Biotar 2/5,8cm, 2/58, 1.5/75
Carl Zeiss: Distagon 2/28 T*, 1.4/35 T*, Ultron 1.8/50, Tessar 2.8/50, Planar 1.4/50 T* MM, 1.7/50 T* MM, 1.4/85 T* AEG, Sonnar 2.8/135 T*
Asahi Optical Co.: Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 4.5/20, 3.5/24, 3.5/28, 2/35, 3.5/35, 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 1.8/85, 2.8/105, 2.8/120, 2.5/135 I & II, 3.5/135, 4/150, 4/200, 4/300, 5.6/400, 4/45-125, 4.5/85-210, Super-Takumar 4.5/20, 3.5/24, 3.5/28, 2/35, 3.5/35, 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 2/55, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, 4/150, 4/200, 4.5/70-150, Fish-Eye-Takumar 4/17, Macro-Takumar 4/50, Super-Macro Takumar 4/50, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-Takumar 4/50, 4/100, Bellows-Takumar 4/100, Asahi-Kogaku Takumar 3.5/50, 2.4/58, 3.5/100, Asahi-Kogaku Tele-Takumar 3.5/135, Auto-Takumar 2.3/35, 3.5/35, 1.8/55, 1.8/55 (Zebra), 2/55, 2.2/55, 1.8/85, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, Takumar 4/35, 2.2/55, 2/58, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, 3.5/200, 5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 5.6/200, 6.3/300, SMC Takumar 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 2/55, SMC-M 1.4/50, 1.7/50, 2/50
Tomioka: Tominon 2/5cm, Auto-Chinon 3.5/21, 1.4/55, Auto-Yashinon DS-M 1.2/55 |
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Bruce
Joined: 15 Jan 2008
Posts: 842
Location: Boston, Ma USA
Expire: 2014-11-22
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 5:15 pm Post subject: |
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Bruce wrote:
thanks for the heads up Mal and Henry. From your experience whats the best way to shave? Im thinking of buying an expensive mini-dremel to grind my mirror away with a super cutter stone, one small pass at a time.
_________________
Digital: Canon 40d & 5DmkII, Film: Hasselblad 203fe/Zeiss 80/2.8 cfe
Adapters for EOS: Cy; M42; Zenit39; Exakta; LeicaR; OlympusOM; PK; Nikon; Rollei35; Retina; Adaptal; P-6 |
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Carlsson
Joined: 26 Jul 2008
Posts: 793
Location: Portugal
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 5:40 pm Post subject: |
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Carlsson wrote:
Bruce, mini-dremel did work for me, I bought it for this purpose. Try different cutter stones and rpm, to avoid vibrations from the dremel.
Good luck!
_________________
Contax III, Zeiss Ikon ZM, Contax AX, EOS 5D, R-D1
https://mariaeero.com/contax/ |
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Mal1905
Joined: 30 Oct 2008
Posts: 1705
Location: Dublin, Ireland
Expire: 2011-11-18
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 7:04 pm Post subject: |
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Mal1905 wrote:
I'm using a miniature file and sandpaper (emery board), and things seem to be going okay - taking it very slowly is the key thing to remember
| Bruce wrote: |
| thanks for the heads up Mal and Henry. From your experience whats the best way to shave? Im thinking of buying an expensive mini-dremel to grind my mirror away with a super cutter stone, one small pass at a time. |
_________________
Canon EOS 5D / EOS 40D
Carl Zeiss Jena: Flektogon 2.8/20, 2.4/35, 2.8/35, Pancolar 2/50, MC 1.8/50, MC 1.8/80, Triotar 4/135, Tessar 2.8/50, S 4/135 1Q, S 3.5/135, Sonnar 3.5/135 MC, 2.8/180, Biotar 2/5,8cm, 2/58, 1.5/75
Carl Zeiss: Distagon 2/28 T*, 1.4/35 T*, Ultron 1.8/50, Tessar 2.8/50, Planar 1.4/50 T* MM, 1.7/50 T* MM, 1.4/85 T* AEG, Sonnar 2.8/135 T*
Asahi Optical Co.: Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 4.5/20, 3.5/24, 3.5/28, 2/35, 3.5/35, 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 1.8/85, 2.8/105, 2.8/120, 2.5/135 I & II, 3.5/135, 4/150, 4/200, 4/300, 5.6/400, 4/45-125, 4.5/85-210, Super-Takumar 4.5/20, 3.5/24, 3.5/28, 2/35, 3.5/35, 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 2/55, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, 4/150, 4/200, 4.5/70-150, Fish-Eye-Takumar 4/17, Macro-Takumar 4/50, Super-Macro Takumar 4/50, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-Takumar 4/50, 4/100, Bellows-Takumar 4/100, Asahi-Kogaku Takumar 3.5/50, 2.4/58, 3.5/100, Asahi-Kogaku Tele-Takumar 3.5/135, Auto-Takumar 2.3/35, 3.5/35, 1.8/55, 1.8/55 (Zebra), 2/55, 2.2/55, 1.8/85, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, Takumar 4/35, 2.2/55, 2/58, 2.8/105, 3.5/135, 3.5/200, 5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 5.6/200, 6.3/300, SMC Takumar 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 2/55, SMC-M 1.4/50, 1.7/50, 2/50
Tomioka: Tominon 2/5cm, Auto-Chinon 3.5/21, 1.4/55, Auto-Yashinon DS-M 1.2/55 |
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trifox
Joined: 14 May 2008
Posts: 3614
Location: UK
Expire: 2014-05-29
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 7:20 pm Post subject: |
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trifox wrote:
| Mal1905 wrote: |
I'm using a miniature file and sandpaper (emery board), and things seem to be going okay - taking it very slowly is the key thing to remember
| Bruce wrote: |
| thanks for the heads up Mal and Henry. From your experience whats the best way to shave? Im thinking of buying an expensive mini-dremel to grind my mirror away with a super cutter stone, one small pass at a time. |
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guys, you need only one thing -- nail-file  and do shaving as traverse grinding (?) ...
tf
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hinnerker
Joined: 17 Aug 2009
Posts: 929
Location: Germany near Kiel
Expire: 2015-08-09
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 7:31 pm Post subject: |
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hinnerker wrote:
| trifox wrote: |
| Mal1905 wrote: |
I'm using a miniature file and sandpaper (emery board), and things seem to be going okay - taking it very slowly is the key thing to remember
| Bruce wrote: |
| thanks for the heads up Mal and Henry. From your experience whats the best way to shave? Im thinking of buying an expensive mini-dremel to grind my mirror away with a super cutter stone, one small pass at a time. |
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guys, you need only one thing -- nail-file and do shaving as traverse grinding (?) ...
tf |
Hi Trifox,
thats correct +1
After repairing the mirror box of my 5D, i ask the repair guy to give me the broken old mirror system in my hands for researching the way, which is best for mirror shaving.
I must say, the best way was to file down with.... a nail-file.. It make less trouble on the edges of the mirror. Only decent scratches on them..
dont know how to describe it in english.. normally you have sharp edges, but if you file down, some small pieces of the the mirror chip of..
But during my tests i realized, that the mirror lost contact to the plastic holder.. in terms of warming/heating up the mirror glas.
So pay attention. That could happen with the mirrorglas.
Some months ago, Canon ordered back some of the 5Ds because the used glue for the mirrors of the 5D was not so good. Some Cams did have the problem and my Cam seemed to be one of them, which will be meet this point, sooner or later..
So be carefull, not to "overheat" the glass during file down the mirror.
So it would be intelligent to think some minutes about cooling down the mirror by something acting as a heat sink.
Cheers
Henry
_________________
some light-painting lens stuff..
... and an EOS 5D MKII
www.digicamclub.de |
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hinnerker
Joined: 17 Aug 2009
Posts: 929
Location: Germany near Kiel
Expire: 2015-08-09
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| Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 7:55 pm Post subject: |
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hinnerker wrote:
Ok, here are some images from the old mirror, after repairing the mirror box.
The images shows, what could also happen...
First the mirror, submirror unit .. the whole in the mirror comes from the crash with the HFT Planar 1.4/50mm in QBM Mount.. that was the big bang...
This happend after a bit of "filework"...
As you can see, there are 4 points, on which the mirror was glued to the
plastic holder..
If this would happen to you, you can try to reglue the mirror on this 4 points.. with super glue.
Cheers
Henry
_________________
some light-painting lens stuff..
... and an EOS 5D MKII
www.digicamclub.de |
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egidio
Joined: 02 Sep 2009
Posts: 222
Location: slovenia
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| Posted: Sat Dec 05, 2009 9:36 pm Post subject: |
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egidio wrote:
ok, so shaving brand new 5d mark2 would probably be a bad idea.
What's the workflow using live view with mirror-problematic lenses? Is it possible that you accidently exit live view mode while shooting? You have to unscrew lens after every shooting or after every shot? How is it while shooting video with such lenses? Does mirror close after you stop recording video.
Is the live view workflow easy and safe enough or its better to wait for a while and than shave mirror
thanks
_________________
I use: Flektogon 2.8/20, Flektogon 2.8/35, planar 50mm/1.4, Takumar 1.4/50mm, Takumar 1.9/85, MIR 24H, Mir1v, Industar-50-2, Helios-44-2, Pentacon 2.8/135, cyclop 85 1.5 |
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