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vilva
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 04 Mar 2007 Posts: 785 Location: Porvoo/Borgå, Finland
Expire: 2015-05-27
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Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 3:51 am Post subject: |
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vilva wrote:
For a rather thorough explanation of chromatic aberration, see http://www.vanwalree.com/optics/chromatic.html.
Veijo _________________ Mainly Schneider-Kreuznach Radionar (1938), VPK Meniscus Achromat (1915), TTH Cooke Anastigmat (1917), TTH Cooke Aviar (1937), Goerz Dopp-Anastigmat III Dagor (1912), Voigländer Heliar (1928) or Aldis Uno Series III (1903 design) mounted on EOS 5D or EOS 350D |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 5:31 am Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
What is your opinion about the posted samples, Veijo? _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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Wormhandler
![Level 1 Level 1](rating1.gif) Joined: 19 May 2008 Posts: 106 Location: Sweden
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Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 1:02 pm Post subject: |
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Wormhandler wrote:
In the review of the zeiss 85 1.4 (sony mount) at photozone.de one can read.
"LoCAs (non-coinciding focal planes of the various colors), sometimes called "bokeh CAs", can be a problem in the field. Similar the Canon 85mm f/1.2 USM L and Nikkor 85mm f/1.4 the Zeiss does also suffer from this optical defect. As you can notice below the halos have different colors - magenta (red + blue) in front the focus point and green beyond. The problem is rather pronounced at f/1.4. It decreases slowly the further you stop down but it is still visible at f/4. The Zeiss ZA 135mm f/1.8 is probably a little better here thanks to its 2 ED elements - the ZA 85mm f/1.4 is a more conventional design. "
Look at the review here with detailed pictures.
http://www.photozone.de/sony-alpha-aps-c-lens-tests/374-zeiss_za_85_14?start=1
It seems to be the exact same thing that you experience.
According to this page at least, it is an optical problem and not a sensor problem. (A problem shared by many exspensive optics, it seems.)
/Jan _________________
Those which I use:
Carl Zeiss Jena:Tessar 5cm 3,5 Tessar 2,8 50mm (3 versions), Sonnar 135mm 3,5, Tessar 135mm 4,5 (Compur), Flektogon 35mm 2,4, Sonnar 180mm 2,8, Sonnar 300mm 4
Cosina Voigtländer:125mm 2,5 Macro APO Lanthar.
Enna Werk Munchen:Tele-zoom 85-250mm
Ernst Leitz Wetzlar:Voort 90mm 4, Hektor 135mm 4,5
Helios:Helios 44-4 (& 44-2) 58mm 2
Industar:Industar 5cm 3,5, Industar-22 5cm 3,5-rangefinder
Isco Göttingen:Tele Westanar 180mm 4
Meyer Optik Görlitz:Lydith 30mm 3,5, Domiplan 50mm 2,8, Primotar 50 3,5, Orestor 135mm 2,8, Telemegor 150 5,5, Telemegor 180mm 5,5, Orestegor 200mm 4 Telemegor 400mm 5,6.
Mir:Mir 1B 37mm 2,8
Nikon:
Nikkor 35 1.4, Nikkor 85 2, Series E 35mm 2,5, Nikkor 35mm 2, Micro Nikkor 55mm 2,8, Series E 100mm 2,8, Nikkor 135m 2,8, Zoom-Nikkor 35-105mm.
Olympus:F-Zuiko Auto-S 50mm 1.8 (m42), E-zuiko Auto-T 135mm 2,5 (m42), Zuiko 85mm 2 MC (OM)
Panagor (Same as vivitar i Guess):28mm 2,5, 200mm 3,5
Pentacon29mm 2,8, 50mm 1,8, 135mm 2,8
Pentax:Auto takumar 35mm 3.5
SMC-takumar 28 3.5, SMC-Takumar 50mm 1.4, SMC-takumar 135mm 3.5, Takumar (bayonet) 135mm 2.5,Takumar 500mm 4
SMC M 35mm 3.5, SMC M 40 2.8, SMC M 50mm 2, SMC M 50mm 1.7, SMC A 50mm 2, SMC M 100 2.8, SMC M 100mm 4 Macro, SMC M 135mm 3,5 SMC M 200mm 4, SMC M 80-200mm 4,5
Shacht af Ulm:Edixa travenar 50mm 2,8, Edixa Travenar 135mm 3,5
Schneider KreuznachXenar 50mm 3,5, Xenar 50mm 2,8, Radionar 80mm 2,9 (Folder), Radionar 10,5cm 4,5 (Folder), Tele-Xenar 135mm 3,5, Symmar 150mm 5,6, Tele-Xenar 200mm 5,5.
Soligor:100-300mm 5 C/D.
Steinheil:Actinar 10,5cm 4,5 (Prontor)
Tamron:Adaptall2 28mm 2.5, Adaptall2 35-70 3.5, Auto Tamron 28 2.8, Auto.tamron 105 2.5, Auto-tamron 135 2.8, Auto Tamron 200 3.5, Auto Tamron 300 5.6 Tamron SP 70-210 3.5-4
Tokyo Koki:Tele-Tokina 135mm 2.8, Tele-Tokina 135mm 3.5 (brand kennex), Tele-Tokina 300 5.5.
Vivitar:Series 1 70-210 (Kiron)
Yashica:
Auto Yashinon-DX 50mm 1.7, Auto Yashinon-DX 50mm 2, Yashica ML 50mm 1.7, Yashica ML 50mm 2 |
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wariag
![Level 1 Level 1](rating1.gif) Joined: 08 Dec 2008 Posts: 59 Location: Lodz, Poland
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Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 6:09 pm Post subject: |
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wariag wrote:
lulalake wrote: |
Hi, Wariag,
I respectfully disagree with parts of your statement. (and agree wholeheartedly with others)
First, "bloom" can be considered a "chromatic aberration" as it involves color and color errors however the "chromatic aberration" of which you and I are speaking is that which you accurately described; the inability of a lens or lens system to focus different colors of light at the same point.
The problem here is that the sensor bloom is not that at all . .but the result of a miscommunication, overloading, and inability do handle high contrast of signal in and between individual photosensors, not completely unlike noise in a sensors.
A great lens on a digital camera will cause no less blooming than a poor lens under the same circumstances. You are correct, all digital systems have some bloom, from the best Canon L Glass, to the best Leica glass, to adapting ones camera to a great Cassagrain telescope.
Again, there is NO bloom using film, only the type of chromatic aberration that comes with no achromatic adjustments.
Cheers
Jules
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I understand what the "bloom" is, and AFAIK that it's the main cause of magnification (or amplification) of CA effects on dSLR comparing to film film SLR.
As the i.e. "blue fringe" CA can be described as not wanted peaks of the light intensity in the blue channel, sensors responsible for this channel gets easily overloaded - thus the range of the CA disturbed area in digital image can spread more than on film -of course green and red channels can be affected too with result of different tint of the aberrated area.
I think, that it's just enough to know that dSLR sensor is just much more sensitive for such not desired special effects as chromatic aberration, and that 35mm film is far more forgiving.
From the other hand, digital post processing software provides tools to nicely correct any kind of "fringing" - usually the stronger is CA - the easier is to correct it , |
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ChrisLilley
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 01 Jan 2008 Posts: 1767 Location: Nice, France
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Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 7:37 pm Post subject: |
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ChrisLilley wrote:
lulalake wrote: |
The color green should be a clue in this issue. Chromatic Aberration, which I studied in optical theory (way back in the day) involves red and blue light not focusing on the same point. There is no green involved.
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Well, no: if red and blue are focusing together in one place, then clearly that will produce magenta, while green will be on the other side.
edited to be a bit more polite _________________ Camera (ˈkæ mə rə), n. Device for taking pictures in bright light
There are 10 kinds of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don’t. Key: Ai-P, Ai, Ai'ed, AiS
Camera: Nikon D90, D40, DK-21M eyepiece, ML-3 remote MF lenses: Nikkor 20mm f/4 K, AI'ed | N.K. Nikkor-N 24mm f/2.8 | Nikkor-N.C 24mm f/2.8 | Nikkor 28mm f/2.8 AiS late model | Арсенал (Arsenal) Мир-24Н (Mir-24N) 35mm f/2 | Cosina Voigtländer Ultron SL II 40mm f/2.0 | Micro-Nikkor 55mm f/2.8 AiS | Zoom-Nikkor 80-200 f/4.5 Ai | ЛЗОС (LZOS) Юпитер-9 (Jupiter-9) 85mm f/2 | Cosina Voigtländer APO-Lanthar 90mm f/3.5 SL | Nikkor-P 105mm f/2.5 pre-Ai, Ai'ed | Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/4 | Schneider Kreuznach Componon 105mm f/5.6 | Nikkor 135mm f/2.8, Ai'ed 1976 model | Nikkor 180mm f/2.8 ED AiS | Арсенал (Arsenal) ТЕЛЕАР-Н (Telear-n) 200mm f/3.5 | Nikkor 300 mm f/4.5 Ai (full equipment list)
Last edited by ChrisLilley on Sat Jan 24, 2009 2:16 am; edited 1 time in total |
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kds315*
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 12 Mar 2008 Posts: 16593 Location: Weinheim, Germany
Expire: 2021-03-09
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Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 7:41 pm Post subject: |
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kds315* wrote:
uuhh, that's a cold one Chris.... _________________ Klaus - Admin
"S'il vient a point, me souviendra" [Thomas Bohier (1460-1523)]
http://www.macrolenses.de for macro and special lens info
http://www.pbase.com/kds315/uv_photos for UV Images and lens/filter info
https://www.flickr.com/photos/kds315/albums my albums using various lenses
http://photographyoftheinvisibleworld.blogspot.com/ my UV BLOG
http://www.travelmeetsfood.com/blog Food + Travel BLOG
https://galeriafotografia.com Architecture + Drone photography
Currently most FAV lens(es):
X80QF f3.2/80mm
Hypergon f11/26mm
ELCAN UV f5.6/52mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f4/60mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f2/62mm
Lomo Уфар-12 f2.5/41mm
Lomo Зуфар-2 f4.0/350mm
Lomo ZIKAR-1A f1.2/100mm
Nikon UV Nikkor f4.5/105mm
Zeiss UV-Sonnar f4.3/105mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f1.8/45mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f4.1/94mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f2.8/100mm
Steinheil Quarzobjektiv f1.8/50mm
Pentax Quartz Takumar f3.5/85mm
Carl Zeiss Jena UV-Objektiv f4/60mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha II f1.1/90mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha I f2.8/200mm
COASTAL OPTICS f4/60mm UV-VIS-IR Apo
COASTAL OPTICS f4.5/105mm UV-Micro-Apo
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f4.5/85mm
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f5.6/300mm
Rodenstock UV-Rodagon f5.6/60mm + 105mm + 150mm
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PaulC
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 23 Dec 2008 Posts: 2318
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Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 9:38 pm Post subject: |
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PaulC wrote:
The Sonnars are known to show what I've seen called "secondary" CA, in green/magenta, and if you want to demonstrate it for yourself then just open your Sonnar wide and shoot something with nice bright edges in front and behind. Like I did with my 4/300 just now to get this:
That is a daylight-balanced flourescent bulb at 100% from a 5D and the CA is obvious. However, this is a very, very good lens. I just have to be careful with difficult lighting.
The original examples look very extreme so maybe the lens is a poor copy. I don't know if the degree of CA varies from lens to lens or not.
It is certainly not true to say that modern lenses do not suffer from CA. It is generally better corrected than in the old Sonnars but it is still troublesome on the Canon L zooms, including the 24-70 f2.8 and the 17-40 f4, and under some conditions can be quite horrible. If you have modern lenses and you don't see it, then you are probably not studying every pixel in your pictures at 100%.
I think the owner of this lens should try it out under different conditions before deciding whether to ditch it or not. Backlit bare tree branches are a challenge for any lens. _________________ View or buy my photos at:
http://shutterstock.com/g/paulcowan
Last edited by PaulC on Sat Jan 24, 2009 12:49 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Abbazz
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 23 Jun 2007 Posts: 1098 Location: Jakarta
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Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 11:42 pm Post subject: |
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Abbazz wrote:
Yes, all these samples are definitely bad cases of longitudinal chromatic aberration (LCA) and have nothing to do with sensor bloom. LCA is also called axial CA or bokeh CA, because it is mostly visible as green fringes in out of focus background. LCA affects many lenses that enjoy a very good reputation, like the Zeiss Sonnar 135/2.8, the Takumar 135/3.5 or the modern Pentax FA 35/2 for example. "Ugly green bokeh" bothers me a lot, that's why I don't like the three aforementioned lenses
If you want a lens free from this aberration, look for a good APO lens. For example, the Voigtländer APO Lanthar 125/2.5 and 180/4 lenses are known to be free from these aberrations.
Cheers!
Abbazz _________________ Il n'y a rien dans le monde qui n'ait son moment decisif, et le chef-d'oeuvre de la bonne conduite est de connaitre et de prendre ce moment. - Cardinal de Retz
The 6x9 Photography Online Resource:
http://artbig.com/ |
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ChrisLilley
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 01 Jan 2008 Posts: 1767 Location: Nice, France
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Posted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 2:11 am Post subject: |
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ChrisLilley wrote:
kds315* wrote: |
uuhh, that's a cold one Chris.... |
You are right. Sorry to be snippy. _________________ Camera (ˈkæ mə rə), n. Device for taking pictures in bright light
There are 10 kinds of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don’t. Key: Ai-P, Ai, Ai'ed, AiS
Camera: Nikon D90, D40, DK-21M eyepiece, ML-3 remote MF lenses: Nikkor 20mm f/4 K, AI'ed | N.K. Nikkor-N 24mm f/2.8 | Nikkor-N.C 24mm f/2.8 | Nikkor 28mm f/2.8 AiS late model | Арсенал (Arsenal) Мир-24Н (Mir-24N) 35mm f/2 | Cosina Voigtländer Ultron SL II 40mm f/2.0 | Micro-Nikkor 55mm f/2.8 AiS | Zoom-Nikkor 80-200 f/4.5 Ai | ЛЗОС (LZOS) Юпитер-9 (Jupiter-9) 85mm f/2 | Cosina Voigtländer APO-Lanthar 90mm f/3.5 SL | Nikkor-P 105mm f/2.5 pre-Ai, Ai'ed | Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/4 | Schneider Kreuznach Componon 105mm f/5.6 | Nikkor 135mm f/2.8, Ai'ed 1976 model | Nikkor 180mm f/2.8 ED AiS | Арсенал (Arsenal) ТЕЛЕАР-Н (Telear-n) 200mm f/3.5 | Nikkor 300 mm f/4.5 Ai (full equipment list) |
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sichko
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 20 Jun 2008 Posts: 2475 Location: South West UK
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Posted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 2:29 am Post subject: |
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sichko wrote:
Thanks for the link - and the references contained within it. _________________ John |
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sir_c
![Level 1 Level 1](rating1.gif) Joined: 07 Dec 2008 Posts: 67 Location: Netherlands
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Posted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 12:00 pm Post subject: |
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sir_c wrote:
PaulC wrote: |
The Sonnars are known to show what I've seen called "secondary" CA, in green/magenta, and if you want to demonstrate it for yourself then just open your Sonnar wide and shoot something with nice bright edges in front and behind. Like I did with my 4/300 just now to get this:
(...)
It is certainly not true to say that modern lenses do not suffer from CA. It is generally better corrected than in the old Sonnars but it is still troublesome on the Canon L zooms, including the 24-70 f2.8 and the 17-40 f4, and under some conditions can be quite horrible.
(...)
Backlit bare tree branches are a challenge for any lens. |
The example you have is indeed exactly what my experience is, I was just surprised to see it this pronounced in a lens with such a reputation. Doesn't mean I don't like it for the Zeissness of less difficult subjects though
I also own some L-glass, like the aforementioned 24-70/2.8 and this one does suffer from CA, but not so much the green/magenta type. Most of its CA is quite correctable with Lightroom's defringe option.
Thanks for all the info to all, quite informative thread methinks.
Crispian _________________
Fujifilm: X-T1 Graphite Silver
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Asahi Pentax (M42): - Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 24mm f/3.5, Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 28mm f/3.5, Super-Takumar 35mm f/3.5, Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 35mm f/3.5, Super-Takumar 50mm f/1.4, SMC Takumar 50mm f/1.4, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-Takumar 50mm f/4, Super-Takumar 55mm f/1.8, SMC Takumar 55mm f/1.8, SMC Takumar 55mm f/2, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-Takumar 100mm f/4, Auto-Takumar 105mm f/2.8, Super-Takumar 135mm f/3.5
Asahi Pentax (P/K): - SMC Pentax-M 50mm f/2, Takumar (bayonet) 135mm f/2.5
Carl Zeiss (C/Y): - Planar 50mm f/1.7, Planar 50mm f/1.4, Sonnar 135mm f/2.8, Planar 85mm f/1.4
Carl Zeiss Jena: - Aus Jena T 50mm f/2.8, Flektogon 35mm f/2.8, Flektogon 35mm f/2.4
Leica: - Elmarit-R 35mm f/2.8, Elmarit-R 90mm f/2.8, Elmarit-R 135mm f/2.8, Summicron-R 50mm f/2, Summilux-R 50mm f/1.4
Mamiya/Sekor: - Auto 50mm f/2, SX 55mm f/1.8, Macro Sekor 60mm f/2.8, SX 135mm f/2.8
Pentacon: - Auto 29mm f/2.8, Auto MC 50mm f/1.8, Auto 135mm f/2.8
Misc: - Meyer-Optik Görlitz Orestegor 200mm f/4, Petri Auto CC 55mm f/1.8, Soligor Tele Auto 300mm f/5.5
Russian: - Helios 44M-6 58mm f/2, Jupiter-9 85mm f/2, Tair 11A 135mm f/2.8
Tokina: - (P/K) RMC EMZ 70-210mm f/4.5
Yashica: - Auto 50mm f/2 (preset), DX 50mm f/1.7
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estudleon
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 15 May 2008 Posts: 3754 Location: Argentina
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Posted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 1:18 pm Post subject: |
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estudleon wrote:
Doubtlessly you already know the page, but coincidently with the problem that is analyzed here, the question of CA in zeiss 135mm len appears in
http://www.lupomesky.cz/czj_vs_cz/comp135.html
I am conscientious of the relativity of its data, and that the base is not scientist, but the images are clear.
I believe that the question would be to ask if the CA is a bloom question, why only the Zeiss shows it and not the CZJ.
Rino _________________ Konica 2,8/100
CZJ: 4/20, 2,4/35, 1,8/50 aus jena, 3,5/135MC, Pentacon 1,8/50
Pentax S-M-C-1,4/50
Helios 44-3
Mamiya 2,8/135
Misc. : jupiter 9
Stuff used:
A) SRL
Alpa 10 D - kern macro Switar 1,9/50 -black, Kilffit apochromat 2/100.
Asahi pentax spotmatic super takumar 1,4/50
Contaflex super B tessar 2,8/50 Pro-tessar 115
Leica R3 electronic summicron 2/50 elmarit 2,8/35
Konica Autoreflex 3 (2 black and chrome one), TC, T4. 2,8/24, 3,5/28 not MC and MC, 1,8/40, 1,4/50, 1,7/50 MC and not MC, 1,8/85, 3,2/135, 3,5/135, 4/200
Minolta XG9 2,8/35, 2/45, 3,5/135
Nikkormat FTn 1,4/50, 2,8/135
Fujica ST 801, 605, 705n. 3,5/19, 1,4/50, 1,8/55, 4/85, 3,5/135.
Praktica MTL 5 and a lot of M42 lenses.
Voigtlander. Bessamatic m, bessamatix de luxe, bessamatic cs, ultramatic and ultramatic cs.
Skoparex 3,5/35, skopagon 2/40, skopar 2,8/50, skopar X 2,8/50, super lanthar (out of catalogue) 2,8/50, dinarex 3,4/90, dinarex 4,8/100, super dinarex 4/135, super dinarex 4/200, zoomar 2,8/36-83, portrait lens 0, 1 and 2. Curtagon 4/28 and 2,8/35
Canon AV1, 1,8/50
Rolleiflex SL35 and SL35 E. 2,8/35 angulon, 2,8/35 distagon, 1,4/55 rolleinar, 1,8/50 planar, 4/135 tessar, 2,8/135 rolleinar, x2 rollei, M42 to rollei adap.
Etc.
RF
Yashica Minister III
Voightlander Vito, vitomatic I, Vito C, etc.
Leica M. M2, M3 (d.s.) and M4. Schenider 3,4/21, 2/35 summaron 2,8/35 (with eyes). Summicron 2/35 (8 elements with eyes), 2/35 chrome, 2/35 black, 1,4/35 pre asph and aspheric - old -, 2/40 summicron, 2,8/50 elmar, 2/50 7 elements, 2/50 DR, 2/50 - minolta version, 1,4/50 summilux 1966 version, 1,4/75 summilux, 2/90 large version, 2/90 reduced version of 1987, 2,8/90 elmarit large version, 4/135 elmar. |
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sir_c
![Level 1 Level 1](rating1.gif) Joined: 07 Dec 2008 Posts: 67 Location: Netherlands
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Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 10:15 pm Post subject: |
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sir_c wrote:
Hi,
The effect seen on my example pictures is definitely not sensor blooming, as it does not appear as much on other lenses as much as here.
Even though I was quite disappointed with this lens at first, I think I will keep it now, because if you use it under better circumstances, its rendering is as fabulous as my Planars.
Just took some lucky mugshots of my youngest daughter and the Zeissness is really there in the Sonnar, especially if you magnify to 100%.
http://picasaweb.google.com/c.a.stones/IsabellaPhotoshoot#5299644536789472850
Regards,
Crispian _________________
Fujifilm: X-T1 Graphite Silver
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Asahi Pentax (M42): - Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 24mm f/3.5, Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 28mm f/3.5, Super-Takumar 35mm f/3.5, Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 35mm f/3.5, Super-Takumar 50mm f/1.4, SMC Takumar 50mm f/1.4, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-Takumar 50mm f/4, Super-Takumar 55mm f/1.8, SMC Takumar 55mm f/1.8, SMC Takumar 55mm f/2, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-Takumar 100mm f/4, Auto-Takumar 105mm f/2.8, Super-Takumar 135mm f/3.5
Asahi Pentax (P/K): - SMC Pentax-M 50mm f/2, Takumar (bayonet) 135mm f/2.5
Carl Zeiss (C/Y): - Planar 50mm f/1.7, Planar 50mm f/1.4, Sonnar 135mm f/2.8, Planar 85mm f/1.4
Carl Zeiss Jena: - Aus Jena T 50mm f/2.8, Flektogon 35mm f/2.8, Flektogon 35mm f/2.4
Leica: - Elmarit-R 35mm f/2.8, Elmarit-R 90mm f/2.8, Elmarit-R 135mm f/2.8, Summicron-R 50mm f/2, Summilux-R 50mm f/1.4
Mamiya/Sekor: - Auto 50mm f/2, SX 55mm f/1.8, Macro Sekor 60mm f/2.8, SX 135mm f/2.8
Pentacon: - Auto 29mm f/2.8, Auto MC 50mm f/1.8, Auto 135mm f/2.8
Misc: - Meyer-Optik Görlitz Orestegor 200mm f/4, Petri Auto CC 55mm f/1.8, Soligor Tele Auto 300mm f/5.5
Russian: - Helios 44M-6 58mm f/2, Jupiter-9 85mm f/2, Tair 11A 135mm f/2.8
Tokina: - (P/K) RMC EMZ 70-210mm f/4.5
Yashica: - Auto 50mm f/2 (preset), DX 50mm f/1.7
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PaulC
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 23 Dec 2008 Posts: 2318
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Posted: Sat Feb 07, 2009 8:16 am Post subject: |
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PaulC wrote:
I'm glad to hear it has won you over. As I understand it, Zeiss were able to get the Sonnar sharpness only at the expense of allowing the secondary CA, though they did manage to eliminate first-order CA. In the Tessar, they were able to get a sharp central region (wide open) and no CA, but the price for that was softness at the edges. The Sonnar bokeh was very good, with only slight brightening of the bright circle edges, the Tessar bokeh has a pronounced central bright spot and creates "clumpy" backgrounds (that some people like), so it's all swings and roundabouts. _________________ View or buy my photos at:
http://shutterstock.com/g/paulcowan |
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metallaro1980
![Level 2 Level 2](rating2.gif) Joined: 10 Sep 2009 Posts: 385 Location: West Emilia - Fidenza (PR) 43036 - Italy
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Posted: Fri Apr 30, 2010 1:11 pm Post subject: |
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metallaro1980 wrote:
Commonly advocated methods of avoiding purple fringing include:
1)Avoid shooting with a wide-open lens in high contrast scenes.
2)Avoid overexposing highlights (e.g. specular reflections and bright sky behind dark objects).
3)Shoot with a Haze-2A or other strong UV-cut filter.
4)Post-processing to remove purple fringing (or chromatic aberration in general) usually involves scaling the fringed colour channel, or subtracting some of a scaled version of the blue channel. _________________
Olympus OM: 28 2.8, 35 2.8, 50 1.8 Made in Japan
Contax: 50 1.4, 85 1.4
Zeiss: 135 2.0 Apo-Sonnar ZE
Leica-R: 180 3.4 Apo-Telyt-R (Leitax)
Rollei QBM: 135 2.8 Rolleinar (Leitax), 50 1.4 HFT
Canon: 50 1.8, 40 2.8
M42: Helios 50 2.0, Jupiter-37A, Jupiter-21 200 4.0
Binocular: Hensoldt & Wetzlar DF 8x30
http://andreaverdi.altervista.org/ Vivaldi lives in my lenses.... |
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metallaro1980
![Level 2 Level 2](rating2.gif) Joined: 10 Sep 2009 Posts: 385 Location: West Emilia - Fidenza (PR) 43036 - Italy
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Posted: Wed May 12, 2010 7:51 pm Post subject: |
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metallaro1980 wrote:
in photoshop it easy to remove the ca...
you must do the following steps:
1) Duplicate the principal layer
2) Set to Colour the option of fusion (of this new layer)
3) Apply the Gaussian Blur filter with 2 or 3 pixel of radius. (3 is a good value) You must use a radius in order to delete the more big level of CA.
4) In the new layer, create a new Level Mask.
5) Use the Paint Bucket Tool (with black colour) on the Level Mask.
It is important that the filling colour of this Level Mask must become Black!
6) Use the Brush Tool (with white colour) on the CA to remove.
These steps are useful for the sensor bloom (purple fringing) artifacts...like those in the guinea fowl image.
I tried with 3 pixels of radius...and It works ! _________________
Olympus OM: 28 2.8, 35 2.8, 50 1.8 Made in Japan
Contax: 50 1.4, 85 1.4
Zeiss: 135 2.0 Apo-Sonnar ZE
Leica-R: 180 3.4 Apo-Telyt-R (Leitax)
Rollei QBM: 135 2.8 Rolleinar (Leitax), 50 1.4 HFT
Canon: 50 1.8, 40 2.8
M42: Helios 50 2.0, Jupiter-37A, Jupiter-21 200 4.0
Binocular: Hensoldt & Wetzlar DF 8x30
http://andreaverdi.altervista.org/ Vivaldi lives in my lenses.... |
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Carlsson
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 26 Jul 2008 Posts: 793 Location: Portugal
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Posted: Thu May 13, 2010 2:34 pm Post subject: |
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Carlsson wrote:
Orio wrote: |
If this is the case, then the lens is innocent, and the sensor is the culprit.
If you still see the problem, it's CA, else, it's sensor bloom.
Another test you can make is to shoot a roll of slide film and compare. |
Exactly Orio!
I have accused some of my lenses for showing CA (under nearly the same conditions), later on, when I switched to slides, I've never seen this "CA" again, so I guess it was sensor blooming.
I think it's to easy to say "CA", you have to compare it film, as Orio suggested. _________________
Contax III, Zeiss Ikon ZM, Contax AX, EOS 5D, R-D1
https://mariaeero.com/contax/ |
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no-X
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 19 Jul 2008 Posts: 2495 Location: Budejky, Czech Republic
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Posted: Thu May 13, 2010 2:41 pm Post subject: |
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no-X wrote:
Sensor blooming is always neutral in color. It can make the CA more visible, but it doesn't cause it. The secondary red/purple fringe is caused by sensor microlenses.
Different behaviour of film is caused by lack of microlenses and the fact, that common films aren't as sensitive to some wavelengths as digital sensors. _________________ (almost) complete list of Helios lenses |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Thu May 13, 2010 3:14 pm Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
no-X wrote: |
Sensor blooming is always neutral in color. It can make the CA more visible, but it doesn't cause it. The secondary red/purple fringe is caused by sensor microlenses.
Different behaviour of film is caused by lack of microlenses and the fact, that common films aren't as sensitive to some wavelengths as digital sensors. |
I quite agree and I have to say, I verified personally, that in my 5D Mark II, lenses show more purple fringing than in the 5D.
One of the things that I always wanted to test, is to compare the same lens on 5D, 5DII, and film, for purple fringing.
I never found the time, and by the way, it would change nothing in the end, because I'd still be using these cameras and lenses... but it would satisfy a curiosity.
I am inclined to think that density of cells in a sensor may be directly related to how much purple fringing. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
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