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First roll film after 20 yrs break
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2007 11:19 pm    Post subject: First roll film after 20 yrs break Reply with quote
I put to the laboratory my first roll film after 20 yrs break to shoot on film. I used my Nikon FA and some pretty good Nikkor lenses like 24mm f2.8 AIS, 85mm f2 AIS and 50mm f1.2 AIS. I am curious about how they able to scan the film if ok I will shoot again on film the wide angle shoots.


PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2007 11:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I think you will be pleasantly surprised, my Budapest slide film shot with the Bessie and the Russian lenses exceeded even my optimistic expectation about quality.
Did you shoot positive or negative film?


PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2007 11:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
negative, better to shoot on positive for scanning ?


PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2007 11:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Attila wrote:
negative, better to shoot on positive for scanning ?


Positive film is higher quality compared to negative, to start with.
About scanning I don't know, I guess it depends on the scanner, I usually have obtained better results by scanning slides than negatives colour-wise, but I am talking about home scanning, I never tried lab scanning for my films.


PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2007 11:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Let we see I talked about a professional he said the most important the scanner people who is do it. I put to the old shop where we were together,hopefully they able to make in good quality.


PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 8:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Orio wrote:
Positive film is higher quality compared to negative...


True, but also more difficult to shoot (expose). Slide film does not forgive exposure mistakes the way negative film does.

So, for the first rolls (until you really know your cam) I would recommend negative film and then move on to slides.

@Attila: I think it is great that you re-discovered film for you. It is fun. Especially today, when shooting on film is no necessity but a conscious decision. Film shooters are some kind of "elite". Very Happy Wink


PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 8:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Smile Don't know it was economical choice for wide angle territory, I worried about scanning quality, hopefully it will fine.


PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 8:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Attila wrote:
Smile Don't know it was economical choice for wide angle territory...

That and the "feeling" were my reasons as well.

Attila wrote:
... I worried about scanning quality, hopefully it will fine.

You can try other labs if you're not satisfied. I tried three labs until I found a good one.
Now, they know me and call me by my name. Wink


PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 8:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
LucisPictor wrote:
Orio wrote:
Positive film is higher quality compared to negative...


True, but also more difficult to shoot (expose). Slide film does not forgive exposure mistakes the way negative film does.


Exposure mistakes?
I never make any.

Razz Wink

Laughing


PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Orio wrote:
LucisPictor wrote:
Orio wrote:
Positive film is higher quality compared to negative...


True, but also more difficult to shoot (expose). Slide film does not forgive exposure mistakes the way negative film does.


Exposure mistakes?
I never make any.

Razz Wink

Laughing


Of course not! Wink Neither do I, never! Razz


PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 9:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
I was quite disappointed with the lab scanning of my slide film recently. I've been re-scanning at home with my cheapo scanner, and I think I'm making a better job of it. Certainly the sharpness and colour are improved, but a high end scanner would make a hugh difference of course.

I don't think there's any difference between scanning negatives and slides, the only thing is with negatives there is an extra step needed in Photoshop to correct the orange cast (which becomes blue in positive). This cast is needed to fix the dyes used for paper printing. It's really simple to correct - I can explain how to do it if you want.


PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Please explain it, thank you!


PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
OK, when you scan the negatives you see a picture which has a very strong orange colour. To get rid of this orange cast, in PS you do this:

First make a scan of part of the film leader that was completely exposed, in other words the pure orange colour. Also make one of part of the leader that wasn't exposed at all - i.e. completely black. You use these two pictures to set the white and black settings in your proper pictures. In PS you can use full Gaussian Blur on the orange and black to make sure you get an even colour, but it's not vital.

Then in PS, with the orange and black pictures visible, open your first negative. Click on Image > Adjustments > Curves and click on the white "colour dropper" tool for setting white balance. Now click this tool on your orange picture and all the oranges change to white. Then do the same with the black dropper tool on the black picture.

Now when you invert the negative to positive, the colours are basically correct (but might need a little tweaking). I think you can do this as a batch operation on many negatives, but I haven't worked out how to do that yet.


PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 11:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
I didn't know of this trick, thanks, it sounds useful, although I never shoot colour film except in emergency (when I can't find slide film) - for me it's either colour slides or B&W negative.


PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 11:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Many thanks Peter!


PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 11:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
peterqd wrote:
OK, when you scan the negatives you see a picture which has a very strong orange colour. To get rid of this orange cast, in PS you do this:

First make a scan of part of the film leader that was completely exposed, in other words the pure orange colour. Also make one of part of the leader that wasn't exposed at all - i.e. completely black. You use these two pictures to set the white and black settings in your proper pictures. In PS you can use full Gaussian Blur on the orange and black to make sure you get an even colour, but it's not vital.

Then in PS, with the orange and black pictures visible, open your first negative. Click on Image > Adjustments > Curves and click on the white "colour dropper" tool for setting white balance. Now click this tool on your orange picture and all the oranges change to white. Then do the same with the black dropper tool on the black picture.

Now when you invert the negative to positive, the colours are basically correct (but might need a little tweaking). I think you can do this as a batch operation on many negatives, but I haven't worked out how to do that yet.


That is really clever, Peter! Thanks.


PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 12:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Attila, I was thinking yesterday after I posted the stuff for Jes about changing screens, and also now after explaining this trick, would it be possible to have somewhere on the forum where it's possible to find this kind of information quickly for reference or to point someone else to? Maybe we could use the Links section in a wider way?


PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 12:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Yes, link to there. I guess that is the right place and left in original thread.


PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 10:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Just for interest, I was flicking through some old negatives this evening and came across this one of a house with a fractured wall, caused by foundation subsidence. This was taken in 1994 or 1995, using cheap 200 ASA unbranded colour neg film in the ME Super and Pentax-M 1.7/50 kit lens. I scanned it at 2400 resolution and corrected the orange cast as I explained. In comparison, the scanner software can correct the cast automatically if you tell it you are scanning a negative, but the result was highly over-saturated and dominated by red colour.



PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Scanning in the laboratory was crap, so I disappointed now...


PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 1:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Attila wrote:
Scanning in the laboratory was crap, so I disappointed now...


I think labs scan with preset settings, they do not adjust for every customer, unless you ask for (and pay for) a professional service, I think they just deliver average quality scans.


PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Orio wrote:
Attila wrote:
Scanning in the laboratory was crap, so I disappointed now...


I think labs scan with preset settings, they do not adjust for every customer, unless you ask for (and pay for) a professional service, I think they just deliver average quality scans.


Exactly my experience too. I was really disappointed with the scans of my slides recently, see this thread:
http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=1912


PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 2:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Thank you Peter, I will give it a try to scan by myself based on your instruction what you did in an other thread.
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