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woodrim
Joined: 14 Jan 2010 Posts: 4060 Location: Charleston
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Posted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 5:37 pm Post subject: |
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woodrim wrote:
Does yours look like this? This is mine, except now detached from the night vision part and now without the tripod collar.
_________________ Regards,
Woodrim |
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tomasg
Joined: 01 Nov 2009 Posts: 1135
Expire: 2014-04-28
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Posted: Sat Nov 13, 2010 7:22 am Post subject: |
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tomasg wrote:
Yes it s the same, how did you removed the tripod ring? Did you managed to remone the back ring, the one with the largest diameter? |
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ovim
Joined: 27 Sep 2008 Posts: 124 Location: Finland
Expire: 2015-01-28
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Posted: Sat Nov 13, 2010 8:04 am Post subject: |
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ovim wrote:
tomasg: Nice to see you're putting the lens to good use! Very nice shots! |
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blende8
Joined: 29 Sep 2007 Posts: 260 Location: Bremen, Germany
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Posted: Sat Nov 13, 2010 8:18 am Post subject: |
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blende8 wrote:
tomasg wrote: |
Yes it s the same, how did you removed the tripod ring? Did you managed to remone the back ring, the one with the largest diameter? |
Yes,
see post on page 4 by Scheimpflug:
"to remove the ring, you need to loosen or remove all three of those tiny screws. The ring is actually threaded onto the lens body with very fine threads, so you unscrew the ring to remove it. It might be a bit stiff, as the three set screws have chewed up the threads." _________________ Best wishes, Wieland
K-1, K-5IIs
Pentax, mysterium quod absconditum fuit ... |
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tomasg
Joined: 01 Nov 2009 Posts: 1135
Expire: 2014-04-28
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Posted: Sat Nov 13, 2010 10:37 am Post subject: |
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tomasg wrote:
thanx Ovim
the pictures are linked from my PC, so there is a great lost in contrast, saturation and sharpness, they look much better in "reality"
yes, it s a very challenging lens to work with, but when you nail everything it gives really unique results!
Blende8: thanx for the tip, yes it looked logical but was not so sure if i was right, i ll try to "wet" the screws a bit more, like you i think it would be much more practical to use the lens without the tripod ring
Tomas |
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woodrim
Joined: 14 Jan 2010 Posts: 4060 Location: Charleston
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Posted: Sat Nov 13, 2010 5:07 pm Post subject: |
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woodrim wrote:
You got the answer before I got to here. I couldn't use the lens on my camera until I removed that tripod ring. The three screws I was referring to are on the barrel and get either hidden or revealed by moving the focus ring. I wonder what those three screws do. These are much larger screws than what holds on the tripod ring.
Does anyone know if the rear most glass is an actual optic or just a cover? Mine is loose. _________________ Regards,
Woodrim |
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Nordentro
Joined: 24 Jun 2010 Posts: 4713 Location: Lillehammer, Norway
Expire: 2015-01-29
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Posted: Sat Nov 13, 2010 7:17 pm Post subject: |
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Nordentro wrote:
ovim wrote: |
tomasg: Nice to see you're putting the lens to good use! Very nice shots! |
+1, really awesome results tomasg
The portraits are just stunning _________________ Lars | Manuellfokus.no |
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pulatom
Joined: 01 Dec 2010 Posts: 109 Location: Wroclaw, Poland
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Posted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 1:44 pm Post subject: |
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pulatom wrote:
Hi everyone!
I bought a 85/1.5 version in mint condition for about 90$, and simply fell in love with it . Although it's even harder to focus than Jupiter 9, the photos are certainly worth it. I was wondering about 85/1.2 version. Did anyone try to adopt it for an SLR? I mean, to do something with the rear part, screw it off, cut it off, or anything else so it won't block the mirror path . I'm thinking about buying that piece of glass and tinkle with it, but there's a risk of destroying the lens so I won't be able to sell it .
Cheers from PL
Tom _________________ "Any good modern lens is corrected for maximum definition at the larger stops. Using a small stop only increases depth..." Ansel Adams
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martyn_bannister
Joined: 23 May 2010 Posts: 1151
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Posted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 6:57 pm Post subject: |
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martyn_bannister wrote:
pulatom wrote: |
Hi everyone!
I bought a 85/1.5 version in mint condition for about 90$, and simply fell in love with it . Although it's even harder to focus than Jupiter 9, the photos are certainly worth it. I was wondering about 85/1.2 version. Did anyone try to adopt it for an SLR? I mean, to do something with the rear part, screw it off, cut it off, or anything else so it won't block the mirror path . I'm thinking about buying that piece of glass and tinkle with it, but there's a risk of destroying the lens so I won't be able to sell it .
Cheers from PL
Tom |
If the 85/1.2 with the rear protruberance is anything like my experience with the "wrong" sort of 85/1.5 (see my post on page 6 of this thread) then I wouldn;t even think about it |
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pulatom
Joined: 01 Dec 2010 Posts: 109 Location: Wroclaw, Poland
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Posted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 8:30 pm Post subject: |
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pulatom wrote:
Seems like only the 85/1.5 without the rear protruding piece has an acceptable IQ for taking photos . But it'd be interesting to use 85/1.2 lens anyway. I'm fascinated with extremely shallow DOF lenses, and there aren't much of them for M42 mount (I only know 85/1.5 and a few 55/1.2). _________________ "Any good modern lens is corrected for maximum definition at the larger stops. Using a small stop only increases depth..." Ansel Adams
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woodrim
Joined: 14 Jan 2010 Posts: 4060 Location: Charleston
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Posted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 11:12 pm Post subject: |
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woodrim wrote:
pulatom: Do you have pictures to share? _________________ Regards,
Woodrim |
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TBaker
Joined: 02 Dec 2009 Posts: 344 Location: Canada
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Posted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 2:33 am Post subject: |
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TBaker wrote:
So if this lense has the yellow coating it's safe to say it doesn't have the protruding rear? I'm eyeing a couple now on da bay. |
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martyn_bannister
Joined: 23 May 2010 Posts: 1151
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Posted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 8:46 am Post subject: |
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martyn_bannister wrote:
TBaker wrote: |
So if this lense has the yellow coating it's safe to say it doesn't have the protruding rear? I'm eyeing a couple now on da bay. |
That seems to be the general consensus, yes. Certainly my "yellow" pair had no protuberence. |
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pulatom
Joined: 01 Dec 2010 Posts: 109 Location: Wroclaw, Poland
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Posted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 9:09 am Post subject: |
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pulatom wrote:
I figure the "good" 85/1.5's have the "Cyclop" or "Циклоп" inscription on the front ring, the year of production can be also a clue (something between 1991-93?).
woodrim wrote: |
pulatom: Do you have pictures to share? |
From my first roll of film ("scanned" with compact point-and-shoot, digitally processed to B&W), not the sharpest one, but look at the bokeh . Its low border resolution is sometimes quite annoying, especially on a full frame .
_________________ "Any good modern lens is corrected for maximum definition at the larger stops. Using a small stop only increases depth..." Ansel Adams
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martyn_bannister
Joined: 23 May 2010 Posts: 1151
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Posted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 9:28 am Post subject: |
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martyn_bannister wrote:
pulatom wrote: |
Its low border resolution is sometimes quite annoying, especially on a full frame . |
Or it can be quite good fun, depending on your viewpoint
IMG_9212 by MTB2011, on Flickr |
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pulatom
Joined: 01 Dec 2010 Posts: 109 Location: Wroclaw, Poland
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Posted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 9:42 am Post subject: |
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pulatom wrote:
It's great as long as you place the main subject in the center, or near the center. It acts somewhat like a permanent spot diffuser filter . But I think the borders are acceptable for normal 10x15cm prints, especially when sharpened a little. _________________ "Any good modern lens is corrected for maximum definition at the larger stops. Using a small stop only increases depth..." Ansel Adams
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DSG
Joined: 04 Mar 2007 Posts: 544 Location: London, UK.
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Posted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 1:23 pm Post subject: |
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DSG wrote:
LucisPictor wrote: |
You can make your own aperture diaphragm, just put a disc with a whole in front of the lens. |
My Helios 40's iris was damaged beyond repair when I received it from Russia so I ripped out what was left of it, therefore leaving the lens stuck wide open at f1.5. I decided to try a waterford stop in place of the iris...Fortunately, its a doddle to remove the front element. I cut a piece of card into a circlular disk and then cut a circular hole out of the middle of the disk. The diameter of this hole was guesswork...I was hoping it would give somewhere between f5.6-f8. Then I pressed the disk into place inside the iris ring inside the lens. It worked very well. I took it out in the end and just use the lens wide open now. |
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blende8
Joined: 29 Sep 2007 Posts: 260 Location: Bremen, Germany
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Posted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 1:28 pm Post subject: |
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blende8 wrote:
Btw. has it been proven beyond doubt that the Cyclop has the same optics as the Helios 40? _________________ Best wishes, Wieland
K-1, K-5IIs
Pentax, mysterium quod absconditum fuit ... |
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ManualFocus-G
Joined: 29 Dec 2008 Posts: 6622 Location: United Kingdom
Expire: 2014-11-24
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Posted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 5:35 pm Post subject: |
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ManualFocus-G wrote:
Awww, we got some snow today! So during my lunch break my lovely fiance made a snowman
Crop:
Swirlies:
More swirlies:
Snow hugging:
One more:
All have a small amount of sharpening applied, apart from the 100% crop.
Love this lens _________________ Graham - Moderator
Shooter of choice: Fujifilm X-T20 with M42, PB and C/Y lenses
See my Flickr photos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/manualfocus-g |
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Pancolart
Joined: 04 Feb 2008 Posts: 3705 Location: Slovenia, EU
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 5:46 pm Post subject: |
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Pancolart wrote:
Splendid swirls! Nice girl. Which sensor?
Blende8: sure - i have opened both. _________________ ---------------------------------
The Peculiar Apparatus Of Victorian Steampunk Photography: 100+ Genuine Steampunk Camera Designs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B92829NS |
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Nordentro
Joined: 24 Jun 2010 Posts: 4713 Location: Lillehammer, Norway
Expire: 2015-01-29
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Posted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 6:12 pm Post subject: |
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Nordentro wrote:
Super cool swirls indeed and very happy fiance! _________________ Lars | Manuellfokus.no |
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ManualFocus-G
Joined: 29 Dec 2008 Posts: 6622 Location: United Kingdom
Expire: 2014-11-24
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Posted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 6:27 pm Post subject: |
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ManualFocus-G wrote:
Thanks guys, these were taken with my Canon EOS 5D. _________________ Graham - Moderator
Shooter of choice: Fujifilm X-T20 with M42, PB and C/Y lenses
See my Flickr photos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/manualfocus-g |
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martyn_bannister
Joined: 23 May 2010 Posts: 1151
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Posted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 9:00 pm Post subject: |
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martyn_bannister wrote:
ManualFocus-G wrote: |
Thanks guys, these were taken with my Canon EOS 5D. |
Nicely done |
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handz
Joined: 24 Nov 2010 Posts: 8
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Posted: Mon Dec 06, 2010 4:27 pm Post subject: |
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handz wrote:
What a gorgeous lens,
mine arrived week ago, but it is so cold out there + no sun that I have not a good chance to test it well. But after little playing with them, ordering m42 adapter with a chip was a must:)
About a "which is the right one" debate - IMO
No rubber ring - you could easily see that some 1,5 ones have rubber sharpening ring. Those are the newer ones. Today my second one arrived - it has Blue / Yellow coating - but it is the good one also. It have russian letters on, other one I have have Latin letters and yellow only coating. Both have smooth surface. |
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Pancolart
Joined: 04 Feb 2008 Posts: 3705 Location: Slovenia, EU
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Mon Dec 06, 2010 5:32 pm Post subject: |
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Pancolart wrote:
Could you make a photo of the bluish type one? I have sen so many Cyclops but never has a blue coated been the "good" one. _________________ ---------------------------------
The Peculiar Apparatus Of Victorian Steampunk Photography: 100+ Genuine Steampunk Camera Designs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B92829NS |
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