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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5029 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 10:39 am Post subject: Cheap alternative to MF scanner |
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kansalliskala wrote:
If one need just a couple of "scans" for internet or other less demanding purposes. The quality might be enhanced with getting a better lamp or just aligning the camera better. The sample photo wasn't 100% focused either ..
_________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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Nesster
Joined: 24 Apr 2008 Posts: 5883 Location: NJ, USA
Expire: 2014-02-20
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Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 12:06 pm Post subject: |
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Nesster wrote:
But what is significant here is the evidence for Inca culture in Finland.
I've shot slides off a light table hand held, they came out OK. I was thinking of some sort of structure to hold the camera steady and parallel... but eh...
Nice shot, is that an enlarger you're using? _________________ -Jussi
Camera photos
Print Photographica
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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5029 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 12:26 pm Post subject: |
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kansalliskala wrote:
Opemus IIa. First I thought that I'll take some parts off it to make a small light table, then I thought - there is a film holder and lamp there already and just turned the thing sideways.
Here is some of the artist's work:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HAZEv_x4nuM
I really don't have a clue why the blues ..
Here are some facts about the place, if you plan a trip to SW Finland next summer: http://tinyurl.com/ybsufo7 _________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9098 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 8:55 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
Seems to me that this is a cheap alternative only if one already has an enlarger laying about.
I've found a cheap, and very good, alternative to scanning 35mm slides and negatives is to use a slide duplicator. I modified mine so I can even dupe negatives with it. Because my DSLR is a 1.6x crop body, I bought a "digital" slide duplicator, which screws into the front of the lens. I paid about $50 for this duplicator new, but sometimes they can be found for less than this used on eBay. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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hinnerker
Joined: 17 Aug 2009 Posts: 929 Location: Germany near Kiel
Expire: 2015-08-09
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Posted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 9:24 pm Post subject: |
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hinnerker wrote:
IMHO this is a far better and elegant alternative if you have got a Fullframe - cam... like my EOS 5D or a Nikon FF
So i realized my kind of "high-speed-scanner". Its a NOVOFLEX M39 to M42 Bellows with a NOFLEXAR 4/60mm and a slide duplication unit.
You can insert slides in all kinds, as negativ films also.
The shown unit makes 1:1 copys from each 24x36 material.
A flash (not shown) brings enough light for each kind of film or slide and is correct in Kelvin Temperature..
So here is my first result.. from 1975 with a cheap ektachrome slide..
Instead of this, you can also buy a cheap Slide duplicator on ebay for about 25 Euros. But mostly you cant do 1:1 copys with a crop cam.
Cheers
Henry _________________ some light-painting lens stuff..
... and an EOS 5D MKII
www.digicamclub.de |
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soikka
Joined: 11 Jun 2008 Posts: 534 Location: Finland
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Posted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 9:40 pm Post subject: |
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soikka wrote:
hinnerker wrote: |
IMHO this is a far better and elegant alternative if you have got a Fullframe - cam...
So i realized my kind of "high-speed-scanner". Its a NOVOFLEX M39 to M42 Bellows with a NOFLEXAR 4/60mm and a slide duplication unit.
You can insert slides in all kinds, as negativ films also.
The shown unit makes 1:1 copys from each 24x36 material.
A flash (not shown) brings enough light for each kind of film or slide and is correct in Kelvin Temperature..
So here is my first result.. from 1975 with an cheap ektachrome slide..
Instead of this, you can also buy a cheap Slide duplicator on ebay for about 25 Euros. But mostly you cant do 1:1 copys with a crop cam.
Cheers
Henry |
I have almost similar setup for a crop camera. With my bellows (Pentax Bellows A and slide copier) it just needs exactly 75mm focal length to get the whole frame. I'm using Pentax M 75-150/4 zoom (since I cant afford the limited 77/1.8 ).
Here's some samples:
http://forum.mflenses.com/another-flower-and-more-negative-colours-t18869.html _________________ DSLR: K-5,K20d+Grip, Ist*Ds
Film: MZ-5n, LX, MX+winder, SuperA+winder, ME Super,
M-series: 28/2.8, 35/2, 40/2.8, 135/3.5, 75-150/4, A-series: 50/1.7, Super-Taks: 55/1.8, 105/2.8, S-M-C Taks: 28/3.5, 50/1.4, 85/1.8, Sigma SW2 24/2.8, Tamron SPs: 90/2.5(I), 180/2.5, 500/8, Rikenon XR 35-70/3.5, Cosinon 40/2.5, F-1.7x AF-adapter, Olympus XA |
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Nesster
Joined: 24 Apr 2008 Posts: 5883 Location: NJ, USA
Expire: 2014-02-20
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Posted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 9:45 pm Post subject: |
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Nesster wrote:
I have the same as Soikka. I used what was handy - the 55/1.8 was closest and just stretched enough to get the slide... _________________ -Jussi
Camera photos
Print Photographica
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9098 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 12:54 am Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
hinnerker wrote: |
Instead of this, you can also buy a cheap Slide duplicator on ebay for about 25 Euros. But mostly you cant do 1:1 copys with a crop cam.
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Actually you can. That was exactly why I was referring to a lens-mounted slide copier in my above message.
For my 1.6x crop body camera, a zoom lens works best for a 1:1 dupe because it requires a focal length of just a bit under 70mm.
If I had a FF camera (someday!) I would also be using a bellows with slide duplicator setup. It offers the best results with the least amount of compromise. Except for using a Bowens Illumintran or equivalent. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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hinnerker
Joined: 17 Aug 2009 Posts: 929 Location: Germany near Kiel
Expire: 2015-08-09
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Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 8:37 am Post subject: |
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hinnerker wrote:
cooltouch wrote: |
hinnerker wrote: |
Instead of this, you can also buy a cheap Slide duplicator on ebay for about 25 Euros. But mostly you cant do 1:1 copys with a crop cam.
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Actually you can. That was exactly why I was referring to a lens-mounted slide copier in my above message.
For my 1.6x crop body camera, a zoom lens works best for a 1:1 dupe because it requires a focal length of just a bit under 70mm.
If I had a FF camera (someday!) I would also be using a bellows with slide duplicator setup. It offers the best results with the least amount of compromise. Except for using a Bowens Illumintran or equivalent. |
Sorry, didnt read your post during writing and editing my own
But it seemed we both do agree the same idea.
Cheers
Henry _________________ some light-painting lens stuff..
... and an EOS 5D MKII
www.digicamclub.de |
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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5029 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 9:11 am Post subject: |
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kansalliskala wrote:
Do your setups handle 120? This was the whole idea .. should we star talking about MaF as Manual Focus and MeF as Medium Format. _________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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hinnerker
Joined: 17 Aug 2009 Posts: 929 Location: Germany near Kiel
Expire: 2015-08-09
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Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 1:55 pm Post subject: |
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hinnerker wrote:
kansalliskala wrote: |
Do your setups handle 120? This was the whole idea .. should we star talking about MaF as Manual Focus and MeF as Medium Format. |
If your enlarger can handle 120, thats a great idea. But i would do some corrections on that. Instead of a lamp try to use a mate plate and a flashlight inside of the housing, no condensor. In aditton to that it would be a nice idea to use a compendium für the lens the reduce unwanted lights..
Cheers
Henry _________________ some light-painting lens stuff..
... and an EOS 5D MKII
www.digicamclub.de |
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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5029 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 2:48 pm Post subject: |
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kansalliskala wrote:
hinnerker wrote: |
Instead of a lamp try to use a mate plate and a flashlight inside of the housing, no condensor. In aditton to that it would be a nice idea to use a compendium für the lens the reduce unwanted lights..
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Thanks for the tip. Light colour is the biggest problem, my tests had strong yellow-red tint that couldn't be removed. _________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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Nesster
Joined: 24 Apr 2008 Posts: 5883 Location: NJ, USA
Expire: 2014-02-20
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Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 2:54 pm Post subject: |
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Nesster wrote:
You might try setting the camera's white balance first... with a clear bit of film, or something translucent, I'm not sure what would work best _________________ -Jussi
Camera photos
Print Photographica
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