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ProfHankD
Joined: 30 Dec 2009 Posts: 11 Location: Lexington, KY USA
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Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 11:33 am Post subject: Re: Mirrorless sensor size headed the wrong direction |
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ProfHankD wrote:
ZoneV wrote: |
I am very happy with 14/2.8, 17/3.5, 18/4, 24/1.4, 25/2.8 mm lenses on the sensor format they are designed for - and not only a smaller part of that.
A full frame camera with short register could be interessting, but I am not sure wheter I would like the electronic viewfinder. Furthermore I probably would not like the cost of this camera, or other things about it. |
As much as I want a full frame mirrorless, I know it will show serious problems with many (but not most) old lenses.
A retrofocal wide-angle lens (i.e., wide for an SLR) is essentially a wide with an inverted telephoto to reproject the image -- this means more elements and distortions are harder to manage. Pre-digital short rangefinder lenses that take advantage of the short flange distance to not be retrofocal typically have projection angle issues that cause problems with the microlens arrays in digital cameras. The result is that modern wides generally are optically much better, especially at the edges. Better coatings, aspherics, and better computer design can really help wides. Of 100+ old lenses, I have nothing under 24mm that has IQ competitive with the Sony NEX kit zoom on APS-C... and on full frame, old wide lenses will generally be worse. Zooms have similar issues.
In summary, size isn't all that matters in lens design -- film and sensors have very different properties to optimize for and some things do get better in newer lenses. |
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kuuan
Joined: 14 Jan 2008 Posts: 4569 Location: right now: Austria
Expire: 2014-12-26
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Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 12:10 pm Post subject: |
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kuuan wrote:
nixland wrote: |
So Jeff, could you give me some advice how to use & modify Pentax-A 50/1.2 on Canon 5D without cutting the aperture lever.
I want to preserve the mount especially the lever.... |
good on you
I hope this helps: https://plus.google.com/photos/115725524945054615587/albums/5200318360689315345?banner=pwa
a photo from there, it doesn't look difficult:
arrived there through these links which don't seem to directly link any more: http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/667236/0#5974824 but one will find inspiration and encouragement, thank you Steven Lins.
a few more links given which may be worth checking out: http://photo.net/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00O7Id
be so kind _________________ my photos on flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/kuuan/collections |
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ZoneV
Joined: 09 Nov 2009 Posts: 1632 Location: Germany
Expire: 2011-12-02
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Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 1:39 pm Post subject: Re: Mirrorless sensor size headed the wrong direction |
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ZoneV wrote:
ProfHankD wrote: |
...Pre-digital short rangefinder lenses that take advantage of the short flange distance to not be retrofocal typically have projection angle issues that cause problems with the microlens arrays in digital cameras. The result is that modern wides generally are optically much better, especially at the edges..... |
Oh yes, the microlenses. I am happy, my EOS 5D classic seems to have very simple - or bad microlenses in terms of optimization.
But I am thinking about sensors without microlenses. Should be better for small DOF too
This is one reason why I think about using film. _________________ Camera modification, repair and DIY - some links to look through: http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/index-en.html
I AM A LENS NERD!
Epis, Elmaron, Emerald, Ernostar, Helioplan and Heidosmat.
Epiotar, Kameraobjektiv, Anastigmat, Epis, Meganast, Magnagon, Quinar, Culmigon, Novotrinast, Novflexar, Colorplan, Sekor, Kinon, Talon, Telemegor, Xenon, Xenar, Ultra, Ultra Star. Tessar, Janar, Visionar, Kiptar, Kipronar and Rotelar.
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nixland
Joined: 30 Jan 2011 Posts: 577
Expire: 2012-07-29
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Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 9:39 am Post subject: |
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nixland wrote:
Thanks for the info.
By the way I wonder if the FA lens construction is the same with the Pentax-A? especially the aperture & it's lever. _________________ Carl Zeiss Jena: Biotar 58/2 1Q, DDR Pancolar 80/1.8 MC, Biotar 75/1.5, Biotar 10cm/2, DDR Sonnar 135/3.5 MC
Carl Zeiss C/Y: Planar 50/1.4 T*, Planar 85/1.4 T*, Planar 100/2 T*, Sonnar 135/2.8 T*
Leica: Summicron-R 35/2 v1, Summicron-R 50/2, Summilux-R 80/1.4, Summicron-R 90/2
Pentax: A 50/1.2
Minolta: Rokkor MC 58/1.2, Rokkor MC 85/1.7, Rokkor MC 100/2, MD 200/2.8
Olympus: Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2, Zuiko 50/1.2, Zuiko MC Auto-T 85/2, Zuiko Auto-T 100/2
Nikon: Nikkor 28/2.8 Ais, Nikkor 85/1.8, Nikkor 105/1.8, 300/2.8 ED (Ais)
Canon: FD 50/1.2 L, FD 85/1.2 L
Sony: 135/2.8 STF
Jupiter: 85/2 Alu
Cyclop: 85/1.5
Meyer-Optic: Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5
Samyang: 8/3.5 FE, 14/2.8, 85/1.4, 85/1.4 UMC
FOR SALE
Carl Zeiss Jena Biotar 10cm/2 || Carl Zeiss ZE Distagon 28/2 || Minolta Rokkor MD 35/1.8 || Rokkor-X MC 85/1.7 || Rokkor MD 85/1.7 || Olympus Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2 || Olympus 100/2 || Nikon Nikkor 35/1.4 || Canon: FD 55/1.2 || Vivitar 90/2.5 Series 1 VMC || Tamron: 90/2.5 SP
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AhamB
Joined: 22 Jun 2008 Posts: 733 Location: Germany
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Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 6:58 pm Post subject: Re: Mirrorless sensor size headed the wrong direction |
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AhamB wrote:
ProfHankD wrote: |
I'm pretty sure many old lenses will look a lot worse in the corners of full frame sensors, so the benefit over APS-C might not be as big as hoped given the resolution we're now used to on APS-C... but I'd still like a full frame sensor too. |
Not really. Sharpness is weaker in the corners, usually, but for many types of images it's not that important. Having the full field of view of the lens, including the vignetting, curvature of field and such can give a very different, more interesting look compared to the results from a crop camera, where everything but the center is left out. Full frame lenses often lose a lot of their 'character' on crop cameras. |
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kuuan
Joined: 14 Jan 2008 Posts: 4569 Location: right now: Austria
Expire: 2014-12-26
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Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 9:59 pm Post subject: |
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kuuan wrote:
nixland wrote: |
Thanks for the info.
By the way I wonder if the FA lens construction is the same with the Pentax-A? especially the aperture & it's lever. |
see this Pentax A f1.7/50 lens, looks quite straight forward: http://homepage.mac.com/jpelling/50mm/1.7fix.html _________________ my photos on flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/kuuan/collections |
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nixland
Joined: 30 Jan 2011 Posts: 577
Expire: 2012-07-29
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Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2012 9:49 am Post subject: |
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nixland wrote:
kuuan wrote: |
nixland wrote: |
Thanks for the info.
By the way I wonder if the FA lens construction is the same with the Pentax-A? especially the aperture & it's lever. |
see this Pentax A f1.7/50 lens, looks quite straight forward: http://homepage.mac.com/jpelling/50mm/1.7fix.html |
Thanks for the link. The aperture lever looks as one part with the aperture (?) ... kind of bad news. _________________ Carl Zeiss Jena: Biotar 58/2 1Q, DDR Pancolar 80/1.8 MC, Biotar 75/1.5, Biotar 10cm/2, DDR Sonnar 135/3.5 MC
Carl Zeiss C/Y: Planar 50/1.4 T*, Planar 85/1.4 T*, Planar 100/2 T*, Sonnar 135/2.8 T*
Leica: Summicron-R 35/2 v1, Summicron-R 50/2, Summilux-R 80/1.4, Summicron-R 90/2
Pentax: A 50/1.2
Minolta: Rokkor MC 58/1.2, Rokkor MC 85/1.7, Rokkor MC 100/2, MD 200/2.8
Olympus: Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2, Zuiko 50/1.2, Zuiko MC Auto-T 85/2, Zuiko Auto-T 100/2
Nikon: Nikkor 28/2.8 Ais, Nikkor 85/1.8, Nikkor 105/1.8, 300/2.8 ED (Ais)
Canon: FD 50/1.2 L, FD 85/1.2 L
Sony: 135/2.8 STF
Jupiter: 85/2 Alu
Cyclop: 85/1.5
Meyer-Optic: Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5
Samyang: 8/3.5 FE, 14/2.8, 85/1.4, 85/1.4 UMC
FOR SALE
Carl Zeiss Jena Biotar 10cm/2 || Carl Zeiss ZE Distagon 28/2 || Minolta Rokkor MD 35/1.8 || Rokkor-X MC 85/1.7 || Rokkor MD 85/1.7 || Olympus Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2 || Olympus 100/2 || Nikon Nikkor 35/1.4 || Canon: FD 55/1.2 || Vivitar 90/2.5 Series 1 VMC || Tamron: 90/2.5 SP
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hoanpham
Joined: 31 Jan 2011 Posts: 2575
Expire: 2015-01-18
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Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2012 9:58 am Post subject: |
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hoanpham wrote:
You could try to contact Eric Hendrikson for info about the A50/1.2.
He is the first I contact regarding Pentax lenses.
http://pentaxs.com/ _________________ La migliore cura di LBA � imparare una nuova lingua. Le meilleur rem�de de LBA est d'apprendre une nouvelle langue. La mejor cura del LBA es aprender una nueva lengua. |
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DSG
Joined: 04 Mar 2007 Posts: 544 Location: London, UK.
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Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2012 11:34 pm Post subject: Re: Canon Full-Frame Users are Butchering Pentax MF Lenses! |
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DSG wrote:
Jeff Zen wrote: |
Yes, Canon full-frame users are butchering many, many vintage Pentax MF lenses mostly for video uses.
They are cutting off the tabs on the rear of lenses so that they clear the mirror. Many of these wounded lenses are reappearing on the market.
Some buyers have reportedly purchased lenses where the tabs have been cleverly glued back on, only to have them break off inside their cameras.
This is not only dishonest but can ruin your camera. Please beware! |
Sigma DSLR users also remove the "tabs", after which they fit straight onto the SA mount. The "tabs" of course being the metal AA lever and its plastic or Aluminium protector outcrop. I've only done it to a couple of PK mount lenses and only one of them was an actual Pentax lens...The SMC-M 50mm f1.7...A lens with such poor build quality it literally fell apart in my hands!...Have'nt touched a Pentax lens since!!
I use my MTO 1000A 1100mm f10.5 on the SA mount via a T2-PK adapter, but T2 adapters dont have any "tabs" to remove so it probably does'nt count. I also converted my Carl Zeiss 50mm f1.7 Planar T* to PK mount. |
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nixland
Joined: 30 Jan 2011 Posts: 577
Expire: 2012-07-29
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Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 9:34 am Post subject: |
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nixland wrote:
hoanpham wrote: |
You could try to contact Eric Hendrikson for info about the A50/1.2.
He is the first I contact regarding Pentax lenses.
http://pentaxs.com/ |
Thanks for the info. I have contacted him, explaining the problem.
I've just read his reply and unfortunately he only said "The lever can be removed" with no further explanation or information.
Based on his short reply I think he himself doesn't care about cutting the lever _________________ Carl Zeiss Jena: Biotar 58/2 1Q, DDR Pancolar 80/1.8 MC, Biotar 75/1.5, Biotar 10cm/2, DDR Sonnar 135/3.5 MC
Carl Zeiss C/Y: Planar 50/1.4 T*, Planar 85/1.4 T*, Planar 100/2 T*, Sonnar 135/2.8 T*
Leica: Summicron-R 35/2 v1, Summicron-R 50/2, Summilux-R 80/1.4, Summicron-R 90/2
Pentax: A 50/1.2
Minolta: Rokkor MC 58/1.2, Rokkor MC 85/1.7, Rokkor MC 100/2, MD 200/2.8
Olympus: Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2, Zuiko 50/1.2, Zuiko MC Auto-T 85/2, Zuiko Auto-T 100/2
Nikon: Nikkor 28/2.8 Ais, Nikkor 85/1.8, Nikkor 105/1.8, 300/2.8 ED (Ais)
Canon: FD 50/1.2 L, FD 85/1.2 L
Sony: 135/2.8 STF
Jupiter: 85/2 Alu
Cyclop: 85/1.5
Meyer-Optic: Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5
Samyang: 8/3.5 FE, 14/2.8, 85/1.4, 85/1.4 UMC
FOR SALE
Carl Zeiss Jena Biotar 10cm/2 || Carl Zeiss ZE Distagon 28/2 || Minolta Rokkor MD 35/1.8 || Rokkor-X MC 85/1.7 || Rokkor MD 85/1.7 || Olympus Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2 || Olympus 100/2 || Nikon Nikkor 35/1.4 || Canon: FD 55/1.2 || Vivitar 90/2.5 Series 1 VMC || Tamron: 90/2.5 SP
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hoanpham
Joined: 31 Jan 2011 Posts: 2575
Expire: 2015-01-18
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Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 9:42 am Post subject: |
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hoanpham wrote:
He is retired pentax repair in us. Super busy with all old lenses from pentax forums member.
Why dont you contact Charles, repair man of Attila? _________________ La migliore cura di LBA � imparare una nuova lingua. Le meilleur rem�de de LBA est d'apprendre une nouvelle langue. La mejor cura del LBA es aprender una nueva lengua. |
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8310
Joined: 05 Jun 2010 Posts: 123
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Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 7:02 pm Post subject: |
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8310 wrote:
Pentax MF Lens Users are Butchering Full-Frame Canons!
http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-dslr-discussion/130552-pentax-full-frame-digital-slr-camera-well-sort.html
nixland wrote: |
Thanks for the link. The aperture lever looks as one part with the aperture (?) ... kind of bad news. |
I have not yet disassembled many Pentax lenses (simply because it was not necessary) but afaik the lever construction as seen on the FA limiteds is limited to those.
My advice:
- Butcher your camera, see link above.
- Exchange the A50/1.2 for a cheaper K50/1.2 if you have to butcher the lens. Same optics and is better built. Leave the A lenses to Pentax users who can make use of the A-feature.
- Bend the aperture lever. Maybe you will also have to remove the plastic shield, I think that depends on the adapter you are using.
I never tried that, but I can imagine that whether that works or not does also depend on the adapter you are using. |
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hoanpham
Joined: 31 Jan 2011 Posts: 2575
Expire: 2015-01-18
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Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 8:04 pm Post subject: |
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hoanpham wrote:
The problem is that he has already the K50/1.2! _________________ La migliore cura di LBA � imparare una nuova lingua. Le meilleur rem�de de LBA est d'apprendre une nouvelle langue. La mejor cura del LBA es aprender una nueva lengua. |
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nixland
Joined: 30 Jan 2011 Posts: 577
Expire: 2012-07-29
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Posted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 10:13 am Post subject: |
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nixland wrote:
Yeahh! Finally I got my A 50/1.2!
I've asked the local lens repairman week ago and it's a good news that he said the lever could be removed and no need to cut it. So it's a reversible modification.
Tomorrow I'll bring the lens to him.
Meanwhile I'll use it on my Canon 60D (below). Sorry for bad lighting and white balance
_________________ Carl Zeiss Jena: Biotar 58/2 1Q, DDR Pancolar 80/1.8 MC, Biotar 75/1.5, Biotar 10cm/2, DDR Sonnar 135/3.5 MC
Carl Zeiss C/Y: Planar 50/1.4 T*, Planar 85/1.4 T*, Planar 100/2 T*, Sonnar 135/2.8 T*
Leica: Summicron-R 35/2 v1, Summicron-R 50/2, Summilux-R 80/1.4, Summicron-R 90/2
Pentax: A 50/1.2
Minolta: Rokkor MC 58/1.2, Rokkor MC 85/1.7, Rokkor MC 100/2, MD 200/2.8
Olympus: Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2, Zuiko 50/1.2, Zuiko MC Auto-T 85/2, Zuiko Auto-T 100/2
Nikon: Nikkor 28/2.8 Ais, Nikkor 85/1.8, Nikkor 105/1.8, 300/2.8 ED (Ais)
Canon: FD 50/1.2 L, FD 85/1.2 L
Sony: 135/2.8 STF
Jupiter: 85/2 Alu
Cyclop: 85/1.5
Meyer-Optic: Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5
Samyang: 8/3.5 FE, 14/2.8, 85/1.4, 85/1.4 UMC
FOR SALE
Carl Zeiss Jena Biotar 10cm/2 || Carl Zeiss ZE Distagon 28/2 || Minolta Rokkor MD 35/1.8 || Rokkor-X MC 85/1.7 || Rokkor MD 85/1.7 || Olympus Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2 || Olympus 100/2 || Nikon Nikkor 35/1.4 || Canon: FD 55/1.2 || Vivitar 90/2.5 Series 1 VMC || Tamron: 90/2.5 SP
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hoanpham
Joined: 31 Jan 2011 Posts: 2575
Expire: 2015-01-18
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Posted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 10:18 am Post subject: |
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hoanpham wrote:
could you ask him how easy the pin can be removed?
if pentax is waiting too long for a FF, i might get a cheap 5d.
seems like you mis focus a bit in the photo.
dof is razor thin at f1.2 _________________ La migliore cura di LBA � imparare una nuova lingua. Le meilleur rem�de de LBA est d'apprendre une nouvelle langue. La mejor cura del LBA es aprender una nueva lengua. |
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nixland
Joined: 30 Jan 2011 Posts: 577
Expire: 2012-07-29
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Posted: Fri Feb 03, 2012 10:34 am Post subject: |
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nixland wrote:
hoanpham wrote: |
could you ask him how easy the pin can be removed?
if pentax is waiting too long for a FF, i might get a cheap 5d.
seems like you mis focus a bit in the photo.
dof is razor thin at f1.2 |
I think it's a bit more complex but let's wait till tomorrow.
The important thing is that the repairman said the lever removal without cutting is "no problem" with full confidence _________________ Carl Zeiss Jena: Biotar 58/2 1Q, DDR Pancolar 80/1.8 MC, Biotar 75/1.5, Biotar 10cm/2, DDR Sonnar 135/3.5 MC
Carl Zeiss C/Y: Planar 50/1.4 T*, Planar 85/1.4 T*, Planar 100/2 T*, Sonnar 135/2.8 T*
Leica: Summicron-R 35/2 v1, Summicron-R 50/2, Summilux-R 80/1.4, Summicron-R 90/2
Pentax: A 50/1.2
Minolta: Rokkor MC 58/1.2, Rokkor MC 85/1.7, Rokkor MC 100/2, MD 200/2.8
Olympus: Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2, Zuiko 50/1.2, Zuiko MC Auto-T 85/2, Zuiko Auto-T 100/2
Nikon: Nikkor 28/2.8 Ais, Nikkor 85/1.8, Nikkor 105/1.8, 300/2.8 ED (Ais)
Canon: FD 50/1.2 L, FD 85/1.2 L
Sony: 135/2.8 STF
Jupiter: 85/2 Alu
Cyclop: 85/1.5
Meyer-Optic: Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5
Samyang: 8/3.5 FE, 14/2.8, 85/1.4, 85/1.4 UMC
FOR SALE
Carl Zeiss Jena Biotar 10cm/2 || Carl Zeiss ZE Distagon 28/2 || Minolta Rokkor MD 35/1.8 || Rokkor-X MC 85/1.7 || Rokkor MD 85/1.7 || Olympus Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2 || Olympus 100/2 || Nikon Nikkor 35/1.4 || Canon: FD 55/1.2 || Vivitar 90/2.5 Series 1 VMC || Tamron: 90/2.5 SP
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nixland
Joined: 30 Jan 2011 Posts: 577
Expire: 2012-07-29
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Posted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 11:37 am Post subject: |
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nixland wrote:
Not a good news
The repairman gave up. He tought it would be easy like other lens but after he opened the aperture guide fin ring he had no idea how to open it further. He never open a pentax-A lens before.
I will bring my beat up A 50/1.4 (super cheap, cheaper than takumar 50, has separation marks) to the repairman to study the pentax-A lens structure first
Meanwhile I will do lens test between the A 50/1.2 versus my other 50-55/1.2 lens using Canon 60D (no problem with lever). _________________ Carl Zeiss Jena: Biotar 58/2 1Q, DDR Pancolar 80/1.8 MC, Biotar 75/1.5, Biotar 10cm/2, DDR Sonnar 135/3.5 MC
Carl Zeiss C/Y: Planar 50/1.4 T*, Planar 85/1.4 T*, Planar 100/2 T*, Sonnar 135/2.8 T*
Leica: Summicron-R 35/2 v1, Summicron-R 50/2, Summilux-R 80/1.4, Summicron-R 90/2
Pentax: A 50/1.2
Minolta: Rokkor MC 58/1.2, Rokkor MC 85/1.7, Rokkor MC 100/2, MD 200/2.8
Olympus: Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2, Zuiko 50/1.2, Zuiko MC Auto-T 85/2, Zuiko Auto-T 100/2
Nikon: Nikkor 28/2.8 Ais, Nikkor 85/1.8, Nikkor 105/1.8, 300/2.8 ED (Ais)
Canon: FD 50/1.2 L, FD 85/1.2 L
Sony: 135/2.8 STF
Jupiter: 85/2 Alu
Cyclop: 85/1.5
Meyer-Optic: Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5
Samyang: 8/3.5 FE, 14/2.8, 85/1.4, 85/1.4 UMC
FOR SALE
Carl Zeiss Jena Biotar 10cm/2 || Carl Zeiss ZE Distagon 28/2 || Minolta Rokkor MD 35/1.8 || Rokkor-X MC 85/1.7 || Rokkor MD 85/1.7 || Olympus Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2 || Olympus 100/2 || Nikon Nikkor 35/1.4 || Canon: FD 55/1.2 || Vivitar 90/2.5 Series 1 VMC || Tamron: 90/2.5 SP
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pst
Joined: 25 Aug 2010 Posts: 108 Location: Austria
Expire: 2013-08-17
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Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 8:48 am Post subject: |
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pst wrote:
As already mentioned in this thread, why not BEND the aperture lever?
Did this to a smc-a 50/1.7; Removed the tab and simply bent over the aperture lever to 180°.
I later wanted to sell the lens, so I bent the lever back and tested it. It doesn't look perfect, but works 100%. The buyer was very happy with the lens. _________________ Regards, Patrick. |
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nixland
Joined: 30 Jan 2011 Posts: 577
Expire: 2012-07-29
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Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 9:50 am Post subject: |
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nixland wrote:
pst wrote: |
As already mentioned in this thread, why not BEND the aperture lever?
Did this to a smc-a 50/1.7; Removed the tab and simply bent over the aperture lever to 180°.
I later wanted to sell the lens, so I bent the lever back and tested it. It doesn't look perfect, but works 100%. The buyer was very happy with the lens. |
Sorry I forgot to mention before. The repairman has tried to bend the lever too (only 45 degree) but it still interfere with the mirror.
Ok then, I'll try to bend 180 degree. Or it came up in my mind to bend it twice (forming L shape). Wish me luck _________________ Carl Zeiss Jena: Biotar 58/2 1Q, DDR Pancolar 80/1.8 MC, Biotar 75/1.5, Biotar 10cm/2, DDR Sonnar 135/3.5 MC
Carl Zeiss C/Y: Planar 50/1.4 T*, Planar 85/1.4 T*, Planar 100/2 T*, Sonnar 135/2.8 T*
Leica: Summicron-R 35/2 v1, Summicron-R 50/2, Summilux-R 80/1.4, Summicron-R 90/2
Pentax: A 50/1.2
Minolta: Rokkor MC 58/1.2, Rokkor MC 85/1.7, Rokkor MC 100/2, MD 200/2.8
Olympus: Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2, Zuiko 50/1.2, Zuiko MC Auto-T 85/2, Zuiko Auto-T 100/2
Nikon: Nikkor 28/2.8 Ais, Nikkor 85/1.8, Nikkor 105/1.8, 300/2.8 ED (Ais)
Canon: FD 50/1.2 L, FD 85/1.2 L
Sony: 135/2.8 STF
Jupiter: 85/2 Alu
Cyclop: 85/1.5
Meyer-Optic: Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5
Samyang: 8/3.5 FE, 14/2.8, 85/1.4, 85/1.4 UMC
FOR SALE
Carl Zeiss Jena Biotar 10cm/2 || Carl Zeiss ZE Distagon 28/2 || Minolta Rokkor MD 35/1.8 || Rokkor-X MC 85/1.7 || Rokkor MD 85/1.7 || Olympus Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2 || Olympus 100/2 || Nikon Nikkor 35/1.4 || Canon: FD 55/1.2 || Vivitar 90/2.5 Series 1 VMC || Tamron: 90/2.5 SP
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nixland
Joined: 30 Jan 2011 Posts: 577
Expire: 2012-07-29
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Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 9:53 am Post subject: |
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nixland wrote:
By the way I am about to battle the A vs the K using 60D. If the A is not significantly better than K then I am thinking to sell the A. _________________ Carl Zeiss Jena: Biotar 58/2 1Q, DDR Pancolar 80/1.8 MC, Biotar 75/1.5, Biotar 10cm/2, DDR Sonnar 135/3.5 MC
Carl Zeiss C/Y: Planar 50/1.4 T*, Planar 85/1.4 T*, Planar 100/2 T*, Sonnar 135/2.8 T*
Leica: Summicron-R 35/2 v1, Summicron-R 50/2, Summilux-R 80/1.4, Summicron-R 90/2
Pentax: A 50/1.2
Minolta: Rokkor MC 58/1.2, Rokkor MC 85/1.7, Rokkor MC 100/2, MD 200/2.8
Olympus: Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2, Zuiko 50/1.2, Zuiko MC Auto-T 85/2, Zuiko Auto-T 100/2
Nikon: Nikkor 28/2.8 Ais, Nikkor 85/1.8, Nikkor 105/1.8, 300/2.8 ED (Ais)
Canon: FD 50/1.2 L, FD 85/1.2 L
Sony: 135/2.8 STF
Jupiter: 85/2 Alu
Cyclop: 85/1.5
Meyer-Optic: Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5
Samyang: 8/3.5 FE, 14/2.8, 85/1.4, 85/1.4 UMC
FOR SALE
Carl Zeiss Jena Biotar 10cm/2 || Carl Zeiss ZE Distagon 28/2 || Minolta Rokkor MD 35/1.8 || Rokkor-X MC 85/1.7 || Rokkor MD 85/1.7 || Olympus Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2 || Olympus 100/2 || Nikon Nikkor 35/1.4 || Canon: FD 55/1.2 || Vivitar 90/2.5 Series 1 VMC || Tamron: 90/2.5 SP
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Hood
Joined: 26 Jan 2012 Posts: 469 Location: Perth, Australia
Expire: 2013-09-16
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Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 10:50 am Post subject: |
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Hood wrote:
casualcollector wrote: |
And just about all kinds of DSLR users are grinding, hacking, whacking and destroying Canon FL/FD manual focus lenses to achieve infinity focus. Far worse than what's being done to PK lenses.
Before you grind, change your mind. Send your FL/FD mount (and other) lenses to The Casual Collector's Home for Aging Optics. Here, your experienced lenses will lead an active retirement, creating colorful images in the Florida sunshine. They will be cared for and excercised and there will be no fear of dismemberment, disembowlment or organ harvesting.
PM for shipping details. |
Bahaha, gold! _________________
-Josh
Currently shooting:
Digital:Sony Nex-5, Nex-5n, Pentax KX, Pentax K30 and Fuji JZ100
Film: Minolta x700, Contax 137MD, Chinon Memotron, Minolta 500si, Minolta 700si, Canon Ex-auto, Minolta 35DL weathermatic, Pentax espio 738, Minolta Himatic-G, Olympus Trip 35, Elixa Reflex-B, Pentax MZ-60
Lens Collection:Slr Magic 28/2.8, Slr Magic 35/1.7, Minolta Rokkor 45/2, Minolta Rokkor 50/1.4, Minolta W-Rokkor-sg 28/3.5, Minolta 35-70/3.5, Minolta Rokkor-PF 55/1.9, Minolta W.Rokkor 28/3.5, Monolta MD 50/2*2, Minolta 50/1.7, Minolta zealox bellows, Minolta e.Rokkor 75/4.5, Sony 18-55 3.5/5.6, Sony 16/2.8, Asahi Smc Takumar 55/1.8, Asahi Smc Takumar 50/1.5, Meyer Gerlitz Dimoplan 50/2.8,Meyer Gerlitz Orestegon 50/1.8, Tamron 35/2.8, Tamron 70-220/4, Tamron aspherical 28-200 3.8-5.6, Seimar 28/2.8, Aus Jena Tessar 50/2.8, Industar 50/3.5, Industar 26m 50/2.8, Industar 61 55/2.8, Industar 69 28/2.8, Carenar 45/2.8, Pentacon electric 50/1.8, Pentacon 30/3.5, Pentacon 29/2.8, Helios 44m 58/2, Miida 35/2.8, Miida 75-205/3.8, Cosina 28/2.8, Kenlock 135/2.8, Kenlock 35/2.8, Kenlock Mc-tor 28/2.8, Jupiter 8 50/2, Vivitar 28-85 3.5-4.5 macro, Vivitar 28-80 3.5-5.6 macro, Exacta 35-70 3.5-4.8 macro, Sigma 35-70 2.8-4, Sigma 100-200 4.5, SamYong 18-28 4-4.5, Photax-Pharagon 35/2.8, Travenar 35/2.8, Travenar 50/1.8, Tokina 70-210 4-5.6, Tokina 28/2.8, Promura 200/3.5, Sirius 20-200 3.9, Soligor 200/3.5, Canon FL 50/1.8, Canon FD 35-70 3.5-4.5, Auto Focal 75-200/4.5, Zenit Zenitar 50/2,Tokina353 35-300mm(KX), Pentax 18-55(KX), Pentax 35-80(KX), Sigma 14mm F2.8(KX), Sigma 70-200mm(KX), Sigma 24-70mm(KX), Pentax 35-135 macro(KX), plus I have a few in for service right now and I'm always collecting more...
It's been a few years now, I need to sit down and update this list...it has grown considerably! haha
My Blog:
http://www.joshpereraphoto.com/
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hoanpham
Joined: 31 Jan 2011 Posts: 2575
Expire: 2015-01-18
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Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 2:09 pm Post subject: |
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hoanpham wrote:
Theoretically, the A has slightly better coating. Be careful when you straight the pin back. The position of the pin is direct couple of the aperture. I have one lens that had been bend and had to open up to fix it. Both versions is so little different that you have to look hard to find. My A50/1.2 might be a bit more contrast than K50/1.2, but also depends on light condition... _________________ La migliore cura di LBA � imparare una nuova lingua. Le meilleur rem�de de LBA est d'apprendre une nouvelle langue. La mejor cura del LBA es aprender una nueva lengua. |
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nixland
Joined: 30 Jan 2011 Posts: 577
Expire: 2012-07-29
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Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 3:30 pm Post subject: |
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nixland wrote:
hoanpham wrote: |
Be careful when you straight the pin back. The position of the pin is direct couple of the aperture. I have one lens that had been bend and had to open up to fix it. |
Uh oh ... I hope the repairman didn't straighten up wrongly yesterday.
hoanpham wrote: |
Theoretically, the A has slightly better coating. Both versions is so little different that you have to look hard to find. My A50/1.2 might be a bit more contrast than K50/1.2, but also depends on light condition... |
Just did a quick test. Just 3 shots, outdoor. The A is significantly sharper or more contrasty, but the bokeh looks harsher than the K. I think it's the consequence of the lens over correction (?) ... the sharper the lens the harsher the bokeh (has pronounced ring).
It's dilemmatic I'll do more tests
Thanks a lot for the helpful tips hoanpham. _________________ Carl Zeiss Jena: Biotar 58/2 1Q, DDR Pancolar 80/1.8 MC, Biotar 75/1.5, Biotar 10cm/2, DDR Sonnar 135/3.5 MC
Carl Zeiss C/Y: Planar 50/1.4 T*, Planar 85/1.4 T*, Planar 100/2 T*, Sonnar 135/2.8 T*
Leica: Summicron-R 35/2 v1, Summicron-R 50/2, Summilux-R 80/1.4, Summicron-R 90/2
Pentax: A 50/1.2
Minolta: Rokkor MC 58/1.2, Rokkor MC 85/1.7, Rokkor MC 100/2, MD 200/2.8
Olympus: Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2, Zuiko 50/1.2, Zuiko MC Auto-T 85/2, Zuiko Auto-T 100/2
Nikon: Nikkor 28/2.8 Ais, Nikkor 85/1.8, Nikkor 105/1.8, 300/2.8 ED (Ais)
Canon: FD 50/1.2 L, FD 85/1.2 L
Sony: 135/2.8 STF
Jupiter: 85/2 Alu
Cyclop: 85/1.5
Meyer-Optic: Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5
Samyang: 8/3.5 FE, 14/2.8, 85/1.4, 85/1.4 UMC
FOR SALE
Carl Zeiss Jena Biotar 10cm/2 || Carl Zeiss ZE Distagon 28/2 || Minolta Rokkor MD 35/1.8 || Rokkor-X MC 85/1.7 || Rokkor MD 85/1.7 || Olympus Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2 || Olympus 100/2 || Nikon Nikkor 35/1.4 || Canon: FD 55/1.2 || Vivitar 90/2.5 Series 1 VMC || Tamron: 90/2.5 SP
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BRunner
Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Posts: 705 Location: Czech Republic
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Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 3:37 pm Post subject: |
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BRunner wrote:
nixland wrote: |
Not a good news
The repairman gave up. He tought it would be easy like other lens but after he opened the aperture guide fin ring he had no idea how to open it further. He never open a pentax-A lens before.
I will bring my beat up A 50/1.4 (super cheap, cheaper than takumar 50, has separation marks) to the repairman to study the pentax-A lens structure first
Meanwhile I will do lens test between the A 50/1.2 versus my other 50-55/1.2 lens using Canon 60D (no problem with lever). |
It's not hard to open Pentax M or A lens. The problem is, that aperture leveler is part of aperture control ring or is riveted to it. Only Pentax lenses, where the leveler is non destructively removable are F/FA/DA lenses, where the leveler is fixed with two screws.
My opinion is, that it's not worth to butcher Pentax K mount lenses. You can always sell it and get comparable or better lens at same price from different manufacturer. _________________ .: APO-Maniac :. |
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nixland
Joined: 30 Jan 2011 Posts: 577
Expire: 2012-07-29
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Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 3:56 pm Post subject: |
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nixland wrote:
BRunner wrote: |
nixland wrote: |
Not a good news
The repairman gave up. He tought it would be easy like other lens but after he opened the aperture guide fin ring he had no idea how to open it further. He never open a pentax-A lens before.
I will bring my beat up A 50/1.4 (super cheap, cheaper than takumar 50, has separation marks) to the repairman to study the pentax-A lens structure first
Meanwhile I will do lens test between the A 50/1.2 versus my other 50-55/1.2 lens using Canon 60D (no problem with lever). |
It's not hard to open Pentax M or A lens. The problem is, that aperture leveler is part of aperture control ring or is riveted to it. Only Pentax lenses, where the leveler is non destructively removable are F/FA/DA lenses, where the leveler is fixed with two screws.
My opinion is, that it's not worth to butcher Pentax K mount lenses. You can always sell it and get comparable or better lens at same price from different manufacturer. |
@BRunner: Thanks for the info about the lever is part of aperture control. So, it's not removable then. Bending is the only option.
And I'll think about your opinion too.
So, my case is closed _________________ Carl Zeiss Jena: Biotar 58/2 1Q, DDR Pancolar 80/1.8 MC, Biotar 75/1.5, Biotar 10cm/2, DDR Sonnar 135/3.5 MC
Carl Zeiss C/Y: Planar 50/1.4 T*, Planar 85/1.4 T*, Planar 100/2 T*, Sonnar 135/2.8 T*
Leica: Summicron-R 35/2 v1, Summicron-R 50/2, Summilux-R 80/1.4, Summicron-R 90/2
Pentax: A 50/1.2
Minolta: Rokkor MC 58/1.2, Rokkor MC 85/1.7, Rokkor MC 100/2, MD 200/2.8
Olympus: Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2, Zuiko 50/1.2, Zuiko MC Auto-T 85/2, Zuiko Auto-T 100/2
Nikon: Nikkor 28/2.8 Ais, Nikkor 85/1.8, Nikkor 105/1.8, 300/2.8 ED (Ais)
Canon: FD 50/1.2 L, FD 85/1.2 L
Sony: 135/2.8 STF
Jupiter: 85/2 Alu
Cyclop: 85/1.5
Meyer-Optic: Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5
Samyang: 8/3.5 FE, 14/2.8, 85/1.4, 85/1.4 UMC
FOR SALE
Carl Zeiss Jena Biotar 10cm/2 || Carl Zeiss ZE Distagon 28/2 || Minolta Rokkor MD 35/1.8 || Rokkor-X MC 85/1.7 || Rokkor MD 85/1.7 || Olympus Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2 || Olympus 100/2 || Nikon Nikkor 35/1.4 || Canon: FD 55/1.2 || Vivitar 90/2.5 Series 1 VMC || Tamron: 90/2.5 SP
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