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Katastrofo
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 10405 Location: USA
Expire: 2013-11-19
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Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 8:12 am Post subject: 3 things went wrong... |
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Katastrofo wrote:
I decided to do some night shots with Delta 400 and the Ricohflex Dia L,
but fate wasn't on my side.
1. I need to meter better for night shots as 5-6 were underexposed out
of the roll.
2. My fixer finally gave up the ghost, so this roll has some cloudiness or
fogging.
3. I dropped the roll when trying to load the reel. Guess which one of these pics was on the outside of the roll:
pushed to 1600, HC-110B for 13.5 minutes, 20C
Tonight was 24F with wind chill that brought it down to 11F and 60%
humidity. That might have been part of my problem. |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 9:10 am Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
Well congrats on your enthusiasm for pushing film, but can't you settle for a slow film, D76/IDII, a tripod and bracket your shots.
I've forgotten if I ever was any good at night shots, but about 8 months ago did a few and just bracketed around 1/2 to 2sec and the results weren't too bad.
Superia 200 ftb canon 28mm
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn172/chakrata/IMG073-1.jpg _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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mo
Joined: 27 Aug 2009 Posts: 8979 Location: Australia
Expire: 2016-07-30
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Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 9:38 am Post subject: |
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mo wrote:
That last one would have been very atmospheric,maybe closer to the chairs?I take my hat off to you you are not afraid to get in there and work it out!! _________________ Moira, Moderator
Fuji XE-1,Pentax K-01,Panasonic G1,Panasonic G5,Pentax MX
Ricoh Singlex TLS,KR-5,KR-5Super,XR-10
Lenses
Auto Rikenon's 55/1.4, 1.8, 2.8... 50/1.7 Takumar 2/58 Preset Takumar 2.8/105 Auto Takumar 2.2/55, 3.5/35 Super Takumar 1.8/55...Macro Takumar F4/50... CZJ Biotar ALU M42 2/58 CZJ Tessar ALU M42 2.8/50
CZJ DDR Flektogon Zebra M42 2.8/35 CZJ Pancolar M42 2/50 CZJ Pancolar Exakta 2/50
Auto Mamiya/Sekor 1.8/55 ...Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2.8/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 200/3.5 Tamron SP500/8 Tamron SP350/5.6 Tamron SP90/2.5
Primoplan 1.9/58 Primagon 4.5/35 Telemegor 5.5/150 Angenieux 3.5/28 Angenieux 3,5/135 Y 2
Canon FL 58/1.2,Canon FL85/1.8,Canon FL 100/3.5,Canon SSC 2.8/100 ,Konica AR 100/2.8, Nikkor P 105/2.5
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
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Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 9:39 am Post subject: Re: 3 things went wrong... |
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LucisPictor wrote:
Katastrofo wrote: |
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Hey, you have started with "ghost photography"? Cool!
Never mind, Bill. Your results are much better than my ones would be. _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
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marty
Joined: 09 Apr 2009 Posts: 767 Location: Italy
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Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 9:52 am Post subject: |
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marty wrote:
Hi there. When it comes to night shots I'm not good too I'm afraid. That said #2 looks good under every respect, I like very much the low point of view, here the waist level finder helps a lot. Now some thoughts about exposure. 1. I've found very bright highlights often foul the meter in this kind of shots, so trying to meter away from them should help a great deal. 2. Using a spot meter if available, meter the brightest h/l and put them in zone VIII (if you're familiar with Zone System). 3. Remember to take in account the reciprocity failure for speeds slower then 1/2". 4. Wind and freezing cold don't help for sure, seem to freeze even the thoughts . 5. Excalibur also makes a good point:
Quote: |
but can't you settle for a slow film, D76/IDII, a tripod and bracket your shots |
This is an option too. 6. Experimenting with developers, and here looks like you enjoy to do that. Microphen seems IMO to work well. For what is concerning the fixer try refixing in fresh solution, maybe could help and then just to be sure it won't worsen over the time.
@Excalibur: your pic looks good. You surely captured the atmosphere.
Cheers, Marty. _________________ Canon FD
Bodies: AT-1, A-1, T-90
Lenses: nFD 20mm f2.8, 24 f2.8, 28 f2.8, 35 f2, FD 50 f1.8 S.C., 85 f1.8, 100 f2.8, 135 f2.8, 200 f4, 300 f4
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 10:16 am Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
marty wrote: |
For what is concerning the fixer try refixing in fresh solution, maybe could help and then just to be sure it won't worsen over the time. |
I suggest to first rewash, then refix and rewash. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 10:19 am Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
Bill, the images look good enough to me (although one should really see the negative)
For pushing film, I suggest the Tmax developer. I've got nearly undistinguisheable (from nominal) results by pushing a T-Max 400 to 1600 ISO. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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marty
Joined: 09 Apr 2009 Posts: 767 Location: Italy
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Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 10:26 am Post subject: |
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marty wrote:
Orio wrote: |
marty wrote:
For what is concerning the fixer try refixing in fresh solution, maybe could help and then just to be sure it won't worsen over the time.
I suggest to first rewash, then refix and rewash. |
Thanks Orio, sounds good, I didn't think about that.
Cheers, Marty. _________________ Canon FD
Bodies: AT-1, A-1, T-90
Lenses: nFD 20mm f2.8, 24 f2.8, 28 f2.8, 35 f2, FD 50 f1.8 S.C., 85 f1.8, 100 f2.8, 135 f2.8, 200 f4, 300 f4
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Carlsson
Joined: 26 Jul 2008 Posts: 793 Location: Portugal
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Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 11:20 am Post subject: Re: 3 things went wrong... |
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Carlsson wrote:
Very nice Bill!
Katastrofo wrote: |
3. I dropped the roll when trying to load the reel. Guess which one of these pics was on the outside of the roll |
Since this happened to me, I load the reels while sitting on the floor, not comfortable but safer _________________
Contax III, Zeiss Ikon ZM, Contax AX, EOS 5D, R-D1
https://mariaeero.com/contax/ |
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Katastrofo
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 10405 Location: USA
Expire: 2013-11-19
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Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 2:28 pm Post subject: |
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Katastrofo wrote:
Thanks, guys, for your comments!
Excalibur, maybe I should try the ID-10T developer, do you think that
would be more suitable for me? Agree with Marty, very nice pic!
Orio, will have to try the TMAX developer, but my next thing is trying
PMK Pyro, but I don't think it is suitable for pushing.
Carsten, I'm sure your night shots come out better than this.
Carlsson, great idea, sitting on the floor to load the reels.
Marty, thanks for the metering pointers, will try it. I'm not familiar
with Adams' zone system, but will see if it is in The Negative.
As to wash, fix, wash, these are now cut into strips so doing this would
be a tedious affair, much more fun to load another film and go at it again!
Thanks, Mo-Fo.
Thanks again, fellas. |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 4:23 pm Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
***Excalibur, maybe I should try the ID-10T developer, do you think that
would be more suitable for me?***
Well if you are just taking shots of static buildings, it would seem a good idea to use slow film (for better quality), and leave film pushing for when you need it.
IMHO.......Pushing film is for 35mm guys for things like rock concerts. _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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Katastrofo
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 10405 Location: USA
Expire: 2013-11-19
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Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 4:51 pm Post subject: |
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Katastrofo wrote:
I've always disliked borders/boundaries...it may be the realm of 35mm
guys and rock concerts, but if executed properly, I think pushing fits
other applications. |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 5:34 pm Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
Katastrofo wrote: |
I've always disliked borders/boundaries...it may be the realm of 35mm
guys and rock concerts, but if executed properly, I think pushing fits
other applications. |
Indeed.
Besides, usually rock concerts have strong stage lights. I rarely found myself needing 1600 ISO. Most of the times I could do it with either 400 or 800 ISO. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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