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luisalegria
Joined: 07 Mar 2008 Posts: 6627 Location: San Francisco, USA
Expire: 2018-01-18
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Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 2:30 am Post subject: Sigma Mini-Wide 28/2.8 M42 - Repaired ! |
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luisalegria wrote:
I bought this lens almost exactly 30 years ago. When I pulled it out of the old camera bag two years ago, I found that an inner element had developed a bad haze, and it was unusable. I though that was the end of it, but last week I resolved to open it and see what could be done.
Internally it is a lightly-built thing, rather cheaply made of thin aluminum. Certainly this thing is no Takumar. However, it was quite easy to disassemble from the front, except that I had to drill holes in the name ring for a lens spanner. Once the name ring was off everything in front of the aperture just fell out.
The inner, highly curved second element had the haze, which proved difficult to clean. I used alcohol, acetone and lighter fluid, and I eventually got almost all of it off, save for a bit that may actually be damaged coating.
One warning if you want to try this on another Mini-Wide - the third element, just in front of the aperture, is very small and is convex on both sides, so its not easy to tell how it goes.
Anyway, now it is fully functional, but not so nice looking as besides the holes, it has lost some paint on the side of the second element.
The Sigma Mini-Wide was a quite popular product back in the late 1970's-early 1980's. It was cheap, it worked well, and it focused very close, which was Sigma's claim to uniqueness in those days. Its still quite good as a close-focusing wide angle even now I think, and I have seen several excellent pictures in this forum taken with them.
The M42 version I have has a stop-down button, not an A/M switch, which I thought was a disadvantage. However, this feature is growing on me, it is even better than a good preset mechanism, focus wide-open and press to stop down just before shooting. The only remaining problem is that pressing the button adds tension to my grip and risks shaking the camera.
Performance is quite good by my standards. Its almost, but not quite as sharp in the center as the S-M-C Takumar 28/3.5 at usual shooting apertures - well thats my subjective opinion anyway. Little to no risk of flare - in spite of the haze and cleaning. It does indeed focus very close, and there is a possibility of getting a nice "3D" effect. There is some barrel distortion that would probably get worse in a full frame camera.
_________________ I like Pentax DSLR's, Exaktas, M42 bodies of all kinds, strange and cheap Japanese lenses, and am dabbling in medium format/Speed Graphic work. |
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Nesster
Joined: 24 Apr 2008 Posts: 5883 Location: NJ, USA
Expire: 2014-02-20
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Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 10:59 am Post subject: |
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Nesster wrote:
Super presentation, as always, and the pics look really good.
Re. haze and lens cleaning (I hear this works on fungus too): Ponds cold cream. Let the lens sit in some for a while... supposedly an old camera repair trick. I haven't had the opportunity yet to try this, as the cloudy bits cleaned up without it... which was a good thing, except I really wanted to try out the Ponds
_________________ -Jussi
Camera photos
Print Photographica
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Jesito
Joined: 24 Aug 2007 Posts: 5745 Location: Olivella, Catalonia, (Spain)
Expire: 2015-01-07
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Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 11:22 am Post subject: |
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Jesito wrote:
Great job, Luis!
The miniwide is not commonly very apprecitated, but I like it. It's a very capable lens, and renders nice colours.
Regards,
Jes. _________________ Jesito, Moderator
Jesito's backsack:
Zooms Sigma 70-300, Tamron 35-135 and 70-210 short, 70-210 long, 28-70 CF Macro, 35-70, 35-80, Vivitar 70-210 KA, Tamron 70-250.
Fixed Industar-50, , Tamron 24mm, Tamron 135mm, Sands Hunter 135mm, Pancolar 50mm, Volna-3, many Exakta lenses
DSLR SIGMA SD9 & SD14, EOS 5D, Sony A700 and NEXF3, Oly E-330, E-400, E-450, E-1
TLR/6x6/645 YashicaMat, Petri 6x45, Nettar, Franka Solida, Brilliant
SLR Minolta X300, Fuji STX II, Praktica VLC3, Pentax P30t, EXA500, EXA 1A, Spotmatic(2), Chinon CM-4S, Ricoh, Contax, Konica TC-X , Minolta 5000, 7000i, 3Sxi, EOS 500 and CX
Rangefinders Chinon 35EE, Konica C35 auto, Canonet 28, Yashica Lynx, FED-2, Yashica electro 35, Argus C3 & C4, Regula Cita III, Voigtlander Vitoret (many), Welta Welti-I, Kodak Signette 35, Zorki-4, Bessa-R & L, Minolta Weathermatic, olympus XA2
Compact Film Konica C35V, Voigtlander Vitorets, Canon Prima Super 105, Olympus XA2 and XA3
Compact Digital Olympus C-5050, Aiptek Slim 3000, Canon Powershot A540, Nikon 5200, SIGMA DP1s, Polaroid X530, IXUS55, Kodak 6490, Powershot G9 and G10
CSCCanon EOS-M, Samsung NX100 and NX210, Lumix G5, NEX-F3 |
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themoleman342
Joined: 21 Oct 2007 Posts: 2190 Location: East Coast (CT), U.S.A.
Expire: 2013-01-24
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Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 1:39 pm Post subject: |
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themoleman342 wrote:
The pond's 'trick' works like a charm. Buy a big jar from store and you'll have it for life. I've cleaned probably 15 or so lenses now and the fungus wipes right off without any coating damage. Have a good secondary optical cleaner though as the Pond's gets wickedly greasy.
Nice pictures. I like the dog the best for colors. Did you up the saturation any? Or was this natural? |
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luisalegria
Joined: 07 Mar 2008 Posts: 6627 Location: San Francisco, USA
Expire: 2018-01-18
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Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 6:39 pm Post subject: |
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luisalegria wrote:
Thank you Nesster !
Very cool. What year was this ad from ?
Unfortunately, though I bought this thing new in 1979, with case, caps and papers, it did not come with the allegedly superior hood. Maybe that was a US promotion. I got mine in Manila. _________________ I like Pentax DSLR's, Exaktas, M42 bodies of all kinds, strange and cheap Japanese lenses, and am dabbling in medium format/Speed Graphic work. |
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luisalegria
Joined: 07 Mar 2008 Posts: 6627 Location: San Francisco, USA
Expire: 2018-01-18
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Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 6:45 pm Post subject: |
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luisalegria wrote:
The dog needed a bit of extra contrast, but I didn't change the colors.
I usually have a "medium" setting for saturation on the Pentax K100D. _________________ I like Pentax DSLR's, Exaktas, M42 bodies of all kinds, strange and cheap Japanese lenses, and am dabbling in medium format/Speed Graphic work. |
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Nesster
Joined: 24 Apr 2008 Posts: 5883 Location: NJ, USA
Expire: 2014-02-20
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Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 7:52 pm Post subject: |
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Nesster wrote:
That ad's from '78 _________________ -Jussi
Camera photos
Print Photographica
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kestersonn
Joined: 22 Sep 2009 Posts: 1 Location: Lexington, KY
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Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2009 12:07 pm Post subject: Sigma Mini-wide 28mm reair |
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kestersonn wrote:
I too got a Sigma 28mm just like yours with a milky inner element. You didn't have to go the route of drilling the front nameplate. For those about to take this lens on, just approach it from the back. First, extend the focus out as far as it will go. Take out the small set screw on the lens barrel (there's only one). Take out the screws holding the lens mount on the back. There are only three that hold it, but there are several screws there. If you loosen all of them and carefully lift off the back assembly, parts should not go flying. After this is off, remove the aperture adjustment ring, taking note of its position and the ball bearing on top. It has a long flange that guides the aperture blades. Looking down in the lens barrel, you'll see three screws in the back of the name plate ring. Back these out. Carefully lift out the lens tube assembly. Do this slowly and precisely, as the lens elements are loosely held in place by friction. Once out, carefully place the lens assembly on tissue paper. Be careful at this point, all of the lenses will fall out and it will take many hours to figure out which direction they go back in! I laid the lens assembly on its side and began slowly removing each lens. My lens only required some light cleaning with Windex and lighter fluid, I was lucky.
For reassembly, I found it easier to put the lenses back in their tube in reverse, by putting the tube on its back, and using tweezers, putting the lenses back in facing up. I then put the lens barrel over the tube, held the front, and reversed direction so the lens barrel and lenses were now facing down (on tissue paper of course). Now, put your three screws back in and reassemble the lens. Be careful not to lose the ball bearing on the aperture ring.
Also, be careful of grease inside the barrel housing and aperture ring. Keep a towel nearby to wipe your hands before touching any lens, the lens tube, or the outside of your lens barrel.
Hope this helps. |
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mo
Joined: 27 Aug 2009 Posts: 8982 Location: Australia
Expire: 2016-07-30
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Posted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 1:15 am Post subject: |
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mo wrote:
Could someone post a shot of what this ponds cream looks like?just checking it is what I think it is _________________ Moira, Moderator
Fuji XE-1,Pentax K-01,Panasonic G1,Panasonic G5,Pentax MX
Ricoh Singlex TLS,KR-5,KR-5Super,XR-10
Lenses
Auto Rikenon's 55/1.4, 1.8, 2.8... 50/1.7 Takumar 2/58 Preset Takumar 2.8/105 Auto Takumar 2.2/55, 3.5/35 Super Takumar 1.8/55...Macro Takumar F4/50... CZJ Biotar ALU M42 2/58 CZJ Tessar ALU M42 2.8/50
CZJ DDR Flektogon Zebra M42 2.8/35 CZJ Pancolar M42 2/50 CZJ Pancolar Exakta 2/50
Auto Mamiya/Sekor 1.8/55 ...Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2.8/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 200/3.5 Tamron SP500/8 Tamron SP350/5.6 Tamron SP90/2.5
Primoplan 1.9/58 Primagon 4.5/35 Telemegor 5.5/150 Angenieux 3.5/28 Angenieux 3,5/135 Y 2
Canon FL 58/1.2,Canon FL85/1.8,Canon FL 100/3.5,Canon SSC 2.8/100 ,Konica AR 100/2.8, Nikkor P 105/2.5
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Bruce
Joined: 15 Jan 2008 Posts: 842 Location: Boston, Ma USA
Expire: 2014-11-22
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Posted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 2:15 am Post subject: |
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Bruce wrote:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ECQ4RG
PONDS /\ _________________ Digital: Canon 40d & 5DmkII, Film: Hasselblad 203fe/Zeiss 80/2.8 cfe
Adapters for EOS: Cy; M42; Zenit39; Exakta; LeicaR; OlympusOM; PK; Nikon; Rollei35; Retina; Adaptal; P-6 |
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mo
Joined: 27 Aug 2009 Posts: 8982 Location: Australia
Expire: 2016-07-30
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Posted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 2:21 am Post subject: |
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mo wrote:
..good that was what I was thinking.any reason why this works so well? _________________ Moira, Moderator
Fuji XE-1,Pentax K-01,Panasonic G1,Panasonic G5,Pentax MX
Ricoh Singlex TLS,KR-5,KR-5Super,XR-10
Lenses
Auto Rikenon's 55/1.4, 1.8, 2.8... 50/1.7 Takumar 2/58 Preset Takumar 2.8/105 Auto Takumar 2.2/55, 3.5/35 Super Takumar 1.8/55...Macro Takumar F4/50... CZJ Biotar ALU M42 2/58 CZJ Tessar ALU M42 2.8/50
CZJ DDR Flektogon Zebra M42 2.8/35 CZJ Pancolar M42 2/50 CZJ Pancolar Exakta 2/50
Auto Mamiya/Sekor 1.8/55 ...Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2.8/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 200/3.5 Tamron SP500/8 Tamron SP350/5.6 Tamron SP90/2.5
Primoplan 1.9/58 Primagon 4.5/35 Telemegor 5.5/150 Angenieux 3.5/28 Angenieux 3,5/135 Y 2
Canon FL 58/1.2,Canon FL85/1.8,Canon FL 100/3.5,Canon SSC 2.8/100 ,Konica AR 100/2.8, Nikkor P 105/2.5
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Farside
Joined: 01 Sep 2007 Posts: 6549 Location: Ireland
Expire: 2013-12-27
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Posted: Thu Sep 24, 2009 3:50 am Post subject: |
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Farside wrote:
Mo-Fo wrote: |
..good that was what I was thinking.any reason why this works so well? |
When you see what's in it, you'll not be surprised it kills fungus. The cleaning action is mostly the softening and sloughing inherent if you apply any kind of greasy gunk.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cold_cream _________________ Dave - Moderator
Camera Fiend and Biograph Operator
If I wanted soot and whitewash I'd be a chimney sweep and house painter.
The Lenses of Farside (click)
BUY FRESH FOMAPAN TO HELP KEEP THE FACTORY ALIVE ---
Foma Campaign topic -
http://forum.mflenses.com/foma-campaign-t55443.html
FOMAPAN on forum -
http://www.mflenses.com/fs.php?sw=Fomapan
Webshop EU
http://www.fomafoto.com/ |
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mo
Joined: 27 Aug 2009 Posts: 8982 Location: Australia
Expire: 2016-07-30
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Posted: Thu Sep 24, 2009 4:13 am Post subject: |
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mo wrote:
I am wondering who discovered it works and how?? Did someone actually just drop their lens into it and wiped it off thinking hey this works well for removing fungus....OR is it a lens cleaning product that was found to benefit skin? _________________ Moira, Moderator
Fuji XE-1,Pentax K-01,Panasonic G1,Panasonic G5,Pentax MX
Ricoh Singlex TLS,KR-5,KR-5Super,XR-10
Lenses
Auto Rikenon's 55/1.4, 1.8, 2.8... 50/1.7 Takumar 2/58 Preset Takumar 2.8/105 Auto Takumar 2.2/55, 3.5/35 Super Takumar 1.8/55...Macro Takumar F4/50... CZJ Biotar ALU M42 2/58 CZJ Tessar ALU M42 2.8/50
CZJ DDR Flektogon Zebra M42 2.8/35 CZJ Pancolar M42 2/50 CZJ Pancolar Exakta 2/50
Auto Mamiya/Sekor 1.8/55 ...Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2.8/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 200/3.5 Tamron SP500/8 Tamron SP350/5.6 Tamron SP90/2.5
Primoplan 1.9/58 Primagon 4.5/35 Telemegor 5.5/150 Angenieux 3.5/28 Angenieux 3,5/135 Y 2
Canon FL 58/1.2,Canon FL85/1.8,Canon FL 100/3.5,Canon SSC 2.8/100 ,Konica AR 100/2.8, Nikkor P 105/2.5
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fates
Joined: 26 Aug 2009 Posts: 108
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Posted: Thu Sep 24, 2009 4:28 am Post subject: |
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fates wrote:
The way the story goes, there was a 1960's fashion fotog that bedded a lot of model birds in his time. He was a regular Michael Caine, but never let a good time end well.
Once he got into a scuffle with a jilted lover who flung his lens bag into her changing mirror. As the shards of glass danced across the floor, one dirty, fungus ridden Biotar flew out from the bag and fell into her new jar of cold cream.
"You got your cold cream on my lens!?," he shouted.
"You got your lens in my cold cream!," she retorted.
But the real winner was a junior copy writer, who stood dumbfounded in the corner from the Martin agency, which had just got the Reese's Peanut Butter Cups account earlier that week. _________________ -
If you have any anamorphic lenses you'd like to sell... PM me |
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kanirasta
Joined: 08 Feb 2010 Posts: 2
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Posted: Mon Feb 08, 2010 11:08 pm Post subject: |
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kanirasta wrote:
I've recently got one with some haze on it. Since it was so cheap, I decided to give it a try and clean it.
I was able to disassemble and re-assemble it clean, but I wasn't very satisfied with the results so I decided to try again.
Sadly this time I must have swapped some element around because I can't make it focus properly
Do you have a diagram of the lens or know which design is similar so I can try to locate the element that's placed wrong?
Thanks in advance! |
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luisalegria
Joined: 07 Mar 2008 Posts: 6627 Location: San Francisco, USA
Expire: 2018-01-18
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Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 12:00 am Post subject: |
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luisalegria wrote:
Dumb me - I had my notes right in this article.
There are three elements in front of the diaphragm - all three are convex towards the front. The third element in front of the diaphragm is easy to put in backwards. I suggest you disassemble again and try that.
I did not disassemble anything behind the diaphragm. _________________ I like Pentax DSLR's, Exaktas, M42 bodies of all kinds, strange and cheap Japanese lenses, and am dabbling in medium format/Speed Graphic work. |
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francotirador
Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Posts: 894
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Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 2:14 am Post subject: |
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francotirador wrote:
Hi Luis.
It works in reference to the CA? I have a Super Wide II and is a weak point.
Greetings _________________ Canon 5D II-Sony nex 6
Canon L 80-200 f 2.8 - Canon L 135 f2 - Canon FD 135/2.5 convert to EOS - Yashica 50 1.4 ML - Canon FD 50 1.2 - Distagon 35mm 2.8 T AEJ - Minolta MC 24mm f 2.8 - Canon LTM 85 1.9- Canon LTM 85mm 1.9 convert to EOS - Rodenstock Heligon 50 1.9 - Color Skopar 50 2.8 & MAte Box & filters 4X4
Contax RTS II y Minolta SRT 303 - 28-135 3.6 Tokina - Minolta MD 45 f2.0 - Minolta Zoom 80 200 4.5 (Leica)
www.isgleasphoto.com
The life is more easy with this forum .... |
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luisalegria
Joined: 07 Mar 2008 Posts: 6627 Location: San Francisco, USA
Expire: 2018-01-18
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Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 7:33 am Post subject: |
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luisalegria wrote:
Hola !
No, I have not noticed any CA problem.
But I never notice these problems unless they are very bad. _________________ I like Pentax DSLR's, Exaktas, M42 bodies of all kinds, strange and cheap Japanese lenses, and am dabbling in medium format/Speed Graphic work. |
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kanirasta
Joined: 08 Feb 2010 Posts: 2
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Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 9:21 pm Post subject: |
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kanirasta wrote:
Thank you Luis, will try that!
Gracias _________________ My photos:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kanirasta |
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eduardo.berth@gmail.com
Joined: 19 Mar 2016 Posts: 4
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Posted: Sat Mar 19, 2016 11:27 pm Post subject: |
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eduardo.berth@gmail.com wrote:
I really need your help. I have just purchased this lens a days ago, 28mm mini wide, but had to open it in order to clean it but had the elements mixed when reassembling it. Can anyone help me letting me know the position of the back elements and separators? Thanks a lot! |
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patrikoh
Joined: 16 Aug 2012 Posts: 6 Location: Stockholm, Sweden
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Posted: Mon Jan 22, 2018 10:29 am Post subject: |
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patrikoh wrote:
luisalegria wrote: |
Dumb me - I had my notes right in this article.
There are three elements in front of the diaphragm - all three are convex towards the front. The third element in front of the diaphragm is easy to put in backwards. I suggest you disassemble again and try that.
I did not disassemble anything behind the diaphragm. |
Great information, how about the order of the elemens behind the aperture? |
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Sciolist
Joined: 29 Mar 2017 Posts: 1445 Location: Scotland
Expire: 2021-04-16
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Posted: Mon Jan 22, 2018 11:18 am Post subject: |
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Sciolist wrote:
mo wrote: |
I am wondering who discovered it works and how?? Did someone actually just drop their lens into it and wiped it off thinking hey this works well for removing fungus....OR is it a lens cleaning product that was found to benefit skin? |
I tried an old tube of athletes foot cream and found it works really well (oldest one done three years ago now). This 'genius' was brought about by liberating elements from a cheapish lens one day, then, with pieces everywhere and the kitchen soon to be turned to cooking duties, remembering I'd ran out of any kind of cleaning fluid. *duh*.
Why that old tube of cream came to mind, I have no idea, but standing frozen in my stupidity, staring into space and finding myself being able to think of nothing but fungus, might have helped. When I finally found the tube it had "Dual action anti-fungal cream" writ large across it!
Before applying it, I gave it a quick google and discovered another poor soul who had used it to no apparent ill effect.
Thank god for the power of memory... and desperation. |
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patrikoh
Joined: 16 Aug 2012 Posts: 6 Location: Stockholm, Sweden
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Posted: Tue Jan 23, 2018 7:15 pm Post subject: |
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patrikoh wrote:
If reassembled in the wrong way, does it show clearly in the photos? |
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luisalegria
Joined: 07 Mar 2008 Posts: 6627 Location: San Francisco, USA
Expire: 2018-01-18
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Posted: Tue Jan 23, 2018 11:30 pm Post subject: |
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luisalegria wrote:
"Great information, how about the order of the elemens behind the aperture?"
I never disassembled them, so I can't say. _________________ I like Pentax DSLR's, Exaktas, M42 bodies of all kinds, strange and cheap Japanese lenses, and am dabbling in medium format/Speed Graphic work. |
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Focusthrow
Joined: 12 Sep 2017 Posts: 209
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Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 2:47 am Post subject: Re: Sigma Mini-Wide 28/2.8 M42 - Repaired ! |
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Focusthrow wrote:
luisalegria wrote: |
I bought this lens almost exactly 30 years ago. When I pulled it out of the old camera bag two years ago, I found that an inner element had developed a bad haze, and it was unusable. I though that was the end of it, but last week I resolved to open it and see what could be done.
Internally it is a lightly-built thing, rather cheaply made of thin aluminum. Certainly this thing is no Takumar. However, it was quite easy to disassemble from the front, except that I had to drill holes in the name ring for a lens spanner. Once the name ring was off everything in front of the aperture just fell out.
The inner, highly curved second element had the haze, which proved difficult to clean. I used alcohol, acetone and lighter fluid, and I eventually got almost all of it off, save for a bit that may actually be damaged coating.
One warning if you want to try this on another Mini-Wide - the third element, just in front of the aperture, is very small and is convex on both sides, so its not easy to tell how it goes.
Anyway, now it is fully functional, but not so nice looking as besides the holes, it has lost some paint on the side of the second element.
The Sigma Mini-Wide was a quite popular product back in the late 1970's-early 1980's. It was cheap, it worked well, and it focused very close, which was Sigma's claim to uniqueness in those days. Its still quite good as a close-focusing wide angle even now I think, and I have seen several excellent pictures in this forum taken with them.
The M42 version I have has a stop-down button, not an A/M switch, which I thought was a disadvantage. However, this feature is growing on me, it is even better than a good preset mechanism, focus wide-open and press to stop down just before shooting. The only remaining problem is that pressing the button adds tension to my grip and risks shaking the camera.
Performance is quite good by my standards. Its almost, but not quite as sharp in the center as the S-M-C Takumar 28/3.5 at usual shooting apertures - well thats my subjective opinion anyway. Little to no risk of flare - in spite of the haze and cleaning. It does indeed focus very close, and there is a possibility of getting a nice "3D" effect. There is some barrel distortion that would probably get worse in a full frame camera.
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Nice repair work Luis--I've got a 24mm Super Wide which will reproduce @ 1:5. It's not as old as yours: Nikon mount. I use it on Fx and APS-c (love near-35mm fov). It can produce stunning images, particularly on FX--very good wide open to extreme edges. Nikon's 24mms do not impress me much--I'm sticking with my Sigma Super Wide.
BTW, very nice pics--jt. |
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