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Nelson
Joined: 06 Jan 2008 Posts: 618 Location: close to Paris, France
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Posted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 9:27 am Post subject: Tokina ATX SD 80 200 2.8 FD mount |
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Nelson wrote:
Hello guys
In few days i will received a tokina ATX in FD mount.
I need some advices, i would like to buy a FD->EOS adapter, can you advice me a good one on eBay
I will also consider the idea of converting it myself to EOS, as anyone already convert an ATX lens ?
Thank you _________________ DSLR : EOS 350D, 300D, 7D, 5D
Pentacon 50 f1.8, 135 f2.8, 200 f4;
TAIR 3S
Helios 44/2
Meyer Optik Orestegor 200mm f4 Orestegor 300mm f4
Tamron 24mm f2.5 01B, 300mm f5.6 670Au, 75 250, 300mm f5.6 SP 54B, 500mm f8 SP 55B, SP 70 210 3.5, SP 60 300
my MF lenses
EF 50 1.8 I, EF 100macro f2.8, EF 70-200 F4 L is, EFS 17-55 f2.8 is, Sigma 10-20 EX, 18-50 2.8 EX, 300 f4 hsm, 400 5.6 hsm |
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Nelson
Joined: 06 Jan 2008 Posts: 618 Location: close to Paris, France
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Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 7:01 pm Post subject: |
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Nelson wrote:
hello guys
i received the lens but the seller was a liar
in fact the lens is not in good conditions
the focus ring only turns ~1/5 of the total course
and more frightening the lenses look bas, there is something on a lens
take a look a the pic
ture
what to you thing ?
is there a chance that i would be able to fix it myself ? _________________ DSLR : EOS 350D, 300D, 7D, 5D
Pentacon 50 f1.8, 135 f2.8, 200 f4;
TAIR 3S
Helios 44/2
Meyer Optik Orestegor 200mm f4 Orestegor 300mm f4
Tamron 24mm f2.5 01B, 300mm f5.6 670Au, 75 250, 300mm f5.6 SP 54B, 500mm f8 SP 55B, SP 70 210 3.5, SP 60 300
my MF lenses
EF 50 1.8 I, EF 100macro f2.8, EF 70-200 F4 L is, EFS 17-55 f2.8 is, Sigma 10-20 EX, 18-50 2.8 EX, 300 f4 hsm, 400 5.6 hsm |
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ManualFocus-G
Joined: 29 Dec 2008 Posts: 6624 Location: United Kingdom
Expire: 2014-11-24
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Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 7:21 pm Post subject: |
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ManualFocus-G wrote:
FD-Eos adapters don't work well generally, due to the glass element. Given that the lens is broken, I'd take the opportunity to send it back and find one in a usable mount e.g. Olympus, Pentax, Contax/Yashica or Nikon. _________________ Graham - Moderator
Shooter of choice: Fujifilm X-T20 with M42, PB and C/Y lenses
See my Flickr photos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/manualfocus-g |
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Nelson
Joined: 06 Jan 2008 Posts: 618 Location: close to Paris, France
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Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 7:28 pm Post subject: |
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Nelson wrote:
I don't thrust in the seller
so there is no return possible _________________ DSLR : EOS 350D, 300D, 7D, 5D
Pentacon 50 f1.8, 135 f2.8, 200 f4;
TAIR 3S
Helios 44/2
Meyer Optik Orestegor 200mm f4 Orestegor 300mm f4
Tamron 24mm f2.5 01B, 300mm f5.6 670Au, 75 250, 300mm f5.6 SP 54B, 500mm f8 SP 55B, SP 70 210 3.5, SP 60 300
my MF lenses
EF 50 1.8 I, EF 100macro f2.8, EF 70-200 F4 L is, EFS 17-55 f2.8 is, Sigma 10-20 EX, 18-50 2.8 EX, 300 f4 hsm, 400 5.6 hsm |
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ManualFocus-G
Joined: 29 Dec 2008 Posts: 6624 Location: United Kingdom
Expire: 2014-11-24
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Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 10:08 pm Post subject: |
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ManualFocus-G wrote:
I'm not sure these zoom lenses are easy to work on. With an FD adapter on EOS, the lens will get a teleconverter effect, meaning it will no longer be f/2.8 and will suffer IQ degradation. I'd just sell it on, lose some money and not buy from untrustworthy sellers again. _________________ Graham - Moderator
Shooter of choice: Fujifilm X-T20 with M42, PB and C/Y lenses
See my Flickr photos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/manualfocus-g |
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ilguercio
Joined: 08 Mar 2012 Posts: 414 Location: Southern Italy-Calabria!
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Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 10:20 pm Post subject: |
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ilguercio wrote:
It's a manual focus lens, i guess it's difficult to disassemble since it surely has more than 14 elements inside but i guess it's not that impossible to try and fix the problem.
I can't understand what the problem on the lens is, though. |
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Nelson
Joined: 06 Jan 2008 Posts: 618 Location: close to Paris, France
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Posted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 7:53 pm Post subject: |
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Nelson wrote:
I would like to buy the good tools to dismantle a lens, can you advice me some sellers on ebay ? _________________ DSLR : EOS 350D, 300D, 7D, 5D
Pentacon 50 f1.8, 135 f2.8, 200 f4;
TAIR 3S
Helios 44/2
Meyer Optik Orestegor 200mm f4 Orestegor 300mm f4
Tamron 24mm f2.5 01B, 300mm f5.6 670Au, 75 250, 300mm f5.6 SP 54B, 500mm f8 SP 55B, SP 70 210 3.5, SP 60 300
my MF lenses
EF 50 1.8 I, EF 100macro f2.8, EF 70-200 F4 L is, EFS 17-55 f2.8 is, Sigma 10-20 EX, 18-50 2.8 EX, 300 f4 hsm, 400 5.6 hsm |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57851 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 12:17 am Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Nelson wrote: |
I would like to buy the good tools to dismantle a lens, can you advice me some sellers on ebay ? |
This is pretty valuable lens don't ruin it, rather send lens to member Trifox to UK to convert or to me I will give it my pro repair man to convert. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
Last edited by Attila on Sat Mar 10, 2012 12:30 am; edited 1 time in total |
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francotirador
Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Posts: 894
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Posted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 12:28 am Post subject: |
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francotirador wrote:
Un adaptador con cristales provoca mucha perdida de calidad. Se puede adaptar seguramente y poner una montura canon EF. Hay que quitarle 2mm.
An adapter with crystals causes much loss of quality. You can certainly adapt and put a canon EF mount. You have to remove 2mm. _________________ Canon 5D II-Sony nex 6
Canon L 80-200 f 2.8 - Canon L 135 f2 - Canon FD 135/2.5 convert to EOS - Yashica 50 1.4 ML - Canon FD 50 1.2 - Distagon 35mm 2.8 T AEJ - Minolta MC 24mm f 2.8 - Canon LTM 85 1.9- Canon LTM 85mm 1.9 convert to EOS - Rodenstock Heligon 50 1.9 - Color Skopar 50 2.8 & MAte Box & filters 4X4
Contax RTS II y Minolta SRT 303 - 28-135 3.6 Tokina - Minolta MD 45 f2.0 - Minolta Zoom 80 200 4.5 (Leica)
www.isgleasphoto.com
The life is more easy with this forum .... |
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Karhallarn
Joined: 26 May 2009 Posts: 577
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Posted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 6:40 am Post subject: |
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Karhallarn wrote:
It's said to be a really nice lens, so I would also turn it in to Attila to get it fixed properly! _________________ www.MoWePhoto.de
Olympus OM-D e-m1 II , Olympus E-5 and NEX 5 and a lot of glas.
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/mowephoto/?hl=de
Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/25115960@N08/
500px:
https://500px.com/mowephoto |
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Nelson
Joined: 06 Jan 2008 Posts: 618 Location: close to Paris, France
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Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 1:20 pm Post subject: |
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Nelson wrote:
i paid 65 euros for this lens and i don't want to spend lot of money on it.
if someone want to buy it, i would sell it for same price (+shipping)... _________________ DSLR : EOS 350D, 300D, 7D, 5D
Pentacon 50 f1.8, 135 f2.8, 200 f4;
TAIR 3S
Helios 44/2
Meyer Optik Orestegor 200mm f4 Orestegor 300mm f4
Tamron 24mm f2.5 01B, 300mm f5.6 670Au, 75 250, 300mm f5.6 SP 54B, 500mm f8 SP 55B, SP 70 210 3.5, SP 60 300
my MF lenses
EF 50 1.8 I, EF 100macro f2.8, EF 70-200 F4 L is, EFS 17-55 f2.8 is, Sigma 10-20 EX, 18-50 2.8 EX, 300 f4 hsm, 400 5.6 hsm
Last edited by Nelson on Sun Mar 11, 2012 3:28 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57851 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 10:18 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
This is a generous offer, I did try this lens once , mine had Nikon mount sold above 200 USD. I think this is a great opportunity to any mirror less owner who can mount it. I did use mine with Sony-NEX-3. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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dnas
Joined: 14 Nov 2008 Posts: 488 Location: Japan
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Posted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 3:56 am Post subject: |
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dnas wrote:
When you said that there was "something on the lens", what do you mean? It looks like it has haze inside.
I have attempted repairs on around 5 of these lenses. The lens, if working correctly, is a very nice lens. However, there are two things that can go wrong with these lenses. (Not many have these problems, but when you see this lens, they always have the same problems)
1. Haze. If there haze is on the front element group (front side or back side), you should be able to remove it. If the lens has haze on the inner zooming element, there is nothing you can do to remove it. Even metal polish will not remove it.
2. Parting of glued elements. This can happen to the front element group, and it first appears as if there is a bubble. This cannot be fixed. |
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Nelson
Joined: 06 Jan 2008 Posts: 618 Location: close to Paris, France
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Posted: Sat May 05, 2012 2:59 pm Post subject: |
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Nelson wrote:
It dismounted the lens
very easy to access to elements of zooming and unfornately the problem seems to be in an two elements group
Two optical lenses seem to be glued together and "haze" is between the two
_________________ DSLR : EOS 350D, 300D, 7D, 5D
Pentacon 50 f1.8, 135 f2.8, 200 f4;
TAIR 3S
Helios 44/2
Meyer Optik Orestegor 200mm f4 Orestegor 300mm f4
Tamron 24mm f2.5 01B, 300mm f5.6 670Au, 75 250, 300mm f5.6 SP 54B, 500mm f8 SP 55B, SP 70 210 3.5, SP 60 300
my MF lenses
EF 50 1.8 I, EF 100macro f2.8, EF 70-200 F4 L is, EFS 17-55 f2.8 is, Sigma 10-20 EX, 18-50 2.8 EX, 300 f4 hsm, 400 5.6 hsm |
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francotirador
Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Posts: 894
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Posted: Sat May 05, 2012 3:13 pm Post subject: |
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francotirador wrote:
I had that problem with any lens. The haze is usually the degraded coating.
Best regards. _________________ Canon 5D II-Sony nex 6
Canon L 80-200 f 2.8 - Canon L 135 f2 - Canon FD 135/2.5 convert to EOS - Yashica 50 1.4 ML - Canon FD 50 1.2 - Distagon 35mm 2.8 T AEJ - Minolta MC 24mm f 2.8 - Canon LTM 85 1.9- Canon LTM 85mm 1.9 convert to EOS - Rodenstock Heligon 50 1.9 - Color Skopar 50 2.8 & MAte Box & filters 4X4
Contax RTS II y Minolta SRT 303 - 28-135 3.6 Tokina - Minolta MD 45 f2.0 - Minolta Zoom 80 200 4.5 (Leica)
www.isgleasphoto.com
The life is more easy with this forum .... |
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Smoli4
Joined: 01 Jul 2011 Posts: 606 Location: Haifa, Israel
Expire: 2013-06-07
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Posted: Sat May 05, 2012 6:33 pm Post subject: |
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Smoli4 wrote:
haze is a degraded adhesive symptom. i can try and help you with that issue if you like.
oh and could you please post more images of the glued element from a few angles to show also the side and rear? |
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francotirador
Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Posts: 894
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Posted: Sat May 05, 2012 11:09 pm Post subject: |
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francotirador wrote:
Smoli4 wrote: |
haze is a degraded adhesive symptom. i can try and help you with that issue if you like.
oh and could you please post more images of the glued element from a few angles to show also the side and rear? |
If you have a solution for that I would like to know the secret. I have a Pentacon 29mm with two elements so, and not have glue. The lense are new, it seems that it affected some humidity.
Maybe it's the same problem. _________________ Canon 5D II-Sony nex 6
Canon L 80-200 f 2.8 - Canon L 135 f2 - Canon FD 135/2.5 convert to EOS - Yashica 50 1.4 ML - Canon FD 50 1.2 - Distagon 35mm 2.8 T AEJ - Minolta MC 24mm f 2.8 - Canon LTM 85 1.9- Canon LTM 85mm 1.9 convert to EOS - Rodenstock Heligon 50 1.9 - Color Skopar 50 2.8 & MAte Box & filters 4X4
Contax RTS II y Minolta SRT 303 - 28-135 3.6 Tokina - Minolta MD 45 f2.0 - Minolta Zoom 80 200 4.5 (Leica)
www.isgleasphoto.com
The life is more easy with this forum .... |
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Pancolart
Joined: 04 Feb 2008 Posts: 3693 Location: Slovenia, EU
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Sun May 06, 2012 12:11 am Post subject: |
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Pancolart wrote:
Smoli4 wrote: |
haze is a degraded adhesive symptom... |
Very rarely. Degraded adhesive most frequently results in lens separation of some kind: http://forum.mflenses.com/lens-group-separation-t42928,highlight,%2Bseparation.html
Haze is result of many things and is cleanable in 80%.
francotirador wrote: |
If you have a solution for that I would like to know the secret. I have a Pentacon 29mm with two elements so, and not have glue. The lense are new, it seems that it affected some humidity. Maybe it's the same problem. |
Pentacon 29mm has no glued elements. Haze is either normal condensation residue or coating degradation. If someone found a way to repair Meyer / Pentacon coating i am interested too. _________________ ---------------------------------
The Peculiar Apparatus Of Victorian Steampunk Photography: 100+ Genuine Steampunk Camera Designs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B92829NS |
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francotirador
Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Posts: 894
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Posted: Sun May 06, 2012 1:44 am Post subject: |
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francotirador wrote:
francotirador wrote: |
If you have a solution for that I would like to know the secret. I have a Pentacon 29mm with two elements so, and not have glue. The lense are new, it seems that it affected some humidity. Maybe it's the same problem. |
Pentacon 29mm has no glued elements. Haze is either normal condensation residue or coating degradation. If someone found a way to repair Meyer / Pentacon coating i am interested too.[/quote]
I think it has no solution. Just polishing the glass, and leave it without coating ..
Best regards... _________________ Canon 5D II-Sony nex 6
Canon L 80-200 f 2.8 - Canon L 135 f2 - Canon FD 135/2.5 convert to EOS - Yashica 50 1.4 ML - Canon FD 50 1.2 - Distagon 35mm 2.8 T AEJ - Minolta MC 24mm f 2.8 - Canon LTM 85 1.9- Canon LTM 85mm 1.9 convert to EOS - Rodenstock Heligon 50 1.9 - Color Skopar 50 2.8 & MAte Box & filters 4X4
Contax RTS II y Minolta SRT 303 - 28-135 3.6 Tokina - Minolta MD 45 f2.0 - Minolta Zoom 80 200 4.5 (Leica)
www.isgleasphoto.com
The life is more easy with this forum .... |
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Smoli4
Joined: 01 Jul 2011 Posts: 606 Location: Haifa, Israel
Expire: 2013-06-07
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Posted: Sun May 06, 2012 9:23 am Post subject: |
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Smoli4 wrote:
i dont know about the pentacon but when there is haze between two glued element its a degraded adhesive problem. i bought a smc pentax 55 1.8 that had haze between two glued elements.
and secret of solving this kind of problems is separating the glued elements in a controlled environment and after cleaning re-gluing them with an optical adhesive. |
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francotirador
Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Posts: 894
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Posted: Sun May 06, 2012 3:20 pm Post subject: |
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francotirador wrote:
Smoli4 wrote: |
i dont know about the pentacon but when there is haze between two glued element its a degraded adhesive problem. i bought a smc pentax 55 1.8 that had haze between two glued elements.
and secret of solving this kind of problems is separating the glued elements in a controlled environment and after cleaning re-gluing them with an optical adhesive. |
Test if the UV light, clears the Canadian balsam.
I think not, but it is easier to separate the glass.
good lucky _________________ Canon 5D II-Sony nex 6
Canon L 80-200 f 2.8 - Canon L 135 f2 - Canon FD 135/2.5 convert to EOS - Yashica 50 1.4 ML - Canon FD 50 1.2 - Distagon 35mm 2.8 T AEJ - Minolta MC 24mm f 2.8 - Canon LTM 85 1.9- Canon LTM 85mm 1.9 convert to EOS - Rodenstock Heligon 50 1.9 - Color Skopar 50 2.8 & MAte Box & filters 4X4
Contax RTS II y Minolta SRT 303 - 28-135 3.6 Tokina - Minolta MD 45 f2.0 - Minolta Zoom 80 200 4.5 (Leica)
www.isgleasphoto.com
The life is more easy with this forum .... |
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Nelson
Joined: 06 Jan 2008 Posts: 618 Location: close to Paris, France
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Posted: Tue May 08, 2012 7:43 am Post subject: |
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Nelson wrote:
_________________ DSLR : EOS 350D, 300D, 7D, 5D
Pentacon 50 f1.8, 135 f2.8, 200 f4;
TAIR 3S
Helios 44/2
Meyer Optik Orestegor 200mm f4 Orestegor 300mm f4
Tamron 24mm f2.5 01B, 300mm f5.6 670Au, 75 250, 300mm f5.6 SP 54B, 500mm f8 SP 55B, SP 70 210 3.5, SP 60 300
my MF lenses
EF 50 1.8 I, EF 100macro f2.8, EF 70-200 F4 L is, EFS 17-55 f2.8 is, Sigma 10-20 EX, 18-50 2.8 EX, 300 f4 hsm, 400 5.6 hsm |
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Pancolart
Joined: 04 Feb 2008 Posts: 3693 Location: Slovenia, EU
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Tue May 08, 2012 11:17 am Post subject: |
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Pancolart wrote:
An obvious job for Smoli there. I read somewhere slow warming might help separating elements or even reduce degradation of adhesive. _________________ ---------------------------------
The Peculiar Apparatus Of Victorian Steampunk Photography: 100+ Genuine Steampunk Camera Designs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B92829NS |
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Nelson
Joined: 06 Jan 2008 Posts: 618 Location: close to Paris, France
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Posted: Thu May 10, 2012 1:06 pm Post subject: |
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Nelson wrote:
Is it feasable at home to separate the two lenses and then reassemble them ? _________________ DSLR : EOS 350D, 300D, 7D, 5D
Pentacon 50 f1.8, 135 f2.8, 200 f4;
TAIR 3S
Helios 44/2
Meyer Optik Orestegor 200mm f4 Orestegor 300mm f4
Tamron 24mm f2.5 01B, 300mm f5.6 670Au, 75 250, 300mm f5.6 SP 54B, 500mm f8 SP 55B, SP 70 210 3.5, SP 60 300
my MF lenses
EF 50 1.8 I, EF 100macro f2.8, EF 70-200 F4 L is, EFS 17-55 f2.8 is, Sigma 10-20 EX, 18-50 2.8 EX, 300 f4 hsm, 400 5.6 hsm |
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aspen
Joined: 15 Dec 2010 Posts: 307 Location: Maryland, USA
Expire: 2014-02-20
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Posted: Thu May 10, 2012 1:41 pm Post subject: |
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aspen wrote:
yes, it is possible. I would suggest taking a marker pen and making a mark before disassembling, to line up properly when reassembling. One can place the lens on a lightbulb and the heat will be enough to separate the elements. Be sure to wear "oven mits" when picking up the glass because it's HOT. Balsam glue can be found on the internet, and there are also new glass adhesives. _________________ Cameras; Sony Nex5n Lenses; Konica Hexanons; 21mm f2.8, 40mm f1,8, 50mm f1.4, 50mmf1.7,57mm f1.4, 100mm f2.8, 135mm f3.2, 200mm f4, MC Helios 77M-4 50mm f1.8, Jupiter 8 50 f2, Super Takumar 85mm f1.9, Vivitar Series 1 90mm f2.5 (Macro), Steinheil Munchen Culminar 85mm f2.8, Steinheil Munchen Exagon 35mm f2.8, Jupiter 37A 135mm, Astra Berlin 135mm f3.5, Angenieux 180mm f4 , Tair 3-PhS 300mm f4.5 |
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