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Explore the world of vintage lenses through repair notes, real test shots, and detailed archive threads packed with images.

Explore the world of vintage lenses through repair notes, real test shots, and detailed archive threads packed with images.
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Tokina ATX SD 80 200 2.8 FD mount
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Posted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 9:27 am
Post subject: Tokina ATX SD 80 200 2.8 FD mount
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Posted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 9:27 am
Post subject: Tokina ATX SD 80 200 2.8 FD mount
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Hello guys

In few days i will received a tokina ATX in FD mount.
I need some advices, i would like to buy a FD->EOS adapter, can you advice me a good one on eBay

I will also consider the idea of converting it myself to EOS, as anyone already convert an ATX lens ?

Thank you


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Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 7:01 pm
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Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 7:01 pm
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hello guys

i received the lens but the seller was a liar

in fact the lens is not in good conditions
the focus ring only turns ~1/5 of the total course

and more frightening the lenses look bas, there is something on a lens

take a look a the pic
ture

what to you thing ?
is there a chance that i would be able to fix it myself ?


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Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 7:21 pm
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Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 7:21 pm
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FD-Eos adapters don't work well generally, due to the glass element. Given that the lens is broken, I'd take the opportunity to send it back and find one in a usable mount e.g. Olympus, Pentax, Contax/Yashica or Nikon.


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Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 7:28 pm
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Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 7:28 pm
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I don't thrust in the seller
so there is no return possible


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Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 10:08 pm
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Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 10:08 pm
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I'm not sure these zoom lenses are easy to work on. With an FD adapter on EOS, the lens will get a teleconverter effect, meaning it will no longer be f/2.8 and will suffer IQ degradation. I'd just sell it on, lose some money and not buy from untrustworthy sellers again.


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Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 10:20 pm
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Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2012 10:20 pm
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It's a manual focus lens, i guess it's difficult to disassemble since it surely has more than 14 elements inside but i guess it's not that impossible to try and fix the problem.
I can't understand what the problem on the lens is, though.


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Posted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 7:53 pm
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Posted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 7:53 pm
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I would like to buy the good tools to dismantle a lens, can you advice me some sellers on ebay ?


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Posted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 12:17 am
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Posted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 12:17 am
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Nelson wrote:
I would like to buy the good tools to dismantle a lens, can you advice me some sellers on ebay ?


This is pretty valuable lens don't ruin it, rather send lens to member Trifox to UK to convert or to me I will give it my pro repair man to convert.

Last edited by Attila on Sat Mar 10, 2012 12:30 am; edited 1 time in total


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Posted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 12:28 am
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Posted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 12:28 am
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Un adaptador con cristales provoca mucha perdida de calidad. Se puede adaptar seguramente y poner una montura canon EF. Hay que quitarle 2mm.

An adapter with crystals causes much loss of quality. You can certainly adapt and put a canon EF mount. You have to remove 2mm.


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Posted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 6:40 am
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Posted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 6:40 am
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It's said to be a really nice lens, so I would also turn it in to Attila to get it fixed properly!


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Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 1:20 pm
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Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 1:20 pm
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i paid 65 euros for this lens and i don't want to spend lot of money on it.

if someone want to buy it, i would sell it for same price (+shipping)...

Last edited by Nelson on Sun Mar 11, 2012 3:28 pm; edited 1 time in total


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Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 10:18 pm
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Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 10:18 pm
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This is a generous offer, I did try this lens once , mine had Nikon mount sold above 200 USD. I think this is a great opportunity to any mirror less owner who can mount it. I did use mine with Sony-NEX-3.


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Posted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 3:56 am
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Posted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 3:56 am
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When you said that there was "something on the lens", what do you mean? It looks like it has haze inside.


I have attempted repairs on around 5 of these lenses. The lens, if working correctly, is a very nice lens. However, there are two things that can go wrong with these lenses. (Not many have these problems, but when you see this lens, they always have the same problems)

1. Haze. If there haze is on the front element group (front side or back side), you should be able to remove it. If the lens has haze on the inner zooming element, there is nothing you can do to remove it. Even metal polish will not remove it.

2. Parting of glued elements. This can happen to the front element group, and it first appears as if there is a bubble. This cannot be fixed.


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Posted: Sat May 05, 2012 2:59 pm
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Posted: Sat May 05, 2012 2:59 pm
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It dismounted the lens
very easy to access to elements of zooming and unfornately the problem seems to be in an two elements group
Two optical lenses seem to be glued together and "haze" is between the two
Crying or Very sad



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Posted: Sat May 05, 2012 3:13 pm
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Posted: Sat May 05, 2012 3:13 pm
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I had that problem with any lens. The haze is usually the degraded coating.
Best regards. Crying or Very sad


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Posted: Sat May 05, 2012 6:33 pm
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Posted: Sat May 05, 2012 6:33 pm
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haze is a degraded adhesive symptom. i can try and help you with that issue if you like.
oh and could you please post more images of the glued element from a few angles to show also the side and rear?


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Posted: Sat May 05, 2012 11:09 pm
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Posted: Sat May 05, 2012 11:09 pm
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Smoli4 wrote:
haze is a degraded adhesive symptom. i can try and help you with that issue if you like.
oh and could you please post more images of the glued element from a few angles to show also the side and rear?



If you have a solution for that I would like to know the secret. I have a Pentacon 29mm with two elements so, and not have glue. The lense are new, it seems that it affected some humidity.
Maybe it's the same problem.


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Posted: Sun May 06, 2012 12:11 am
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Posted: Sun May 06, 2012 12:11 am
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Smoli4 wrote:
haze is a degraded adhesive symptom...

Very rarely. Degraded adhesive most frequently results in lens separation of some kind: http://forum.mflenses.com/lens-group-separation-t42928,highlight,%2Bseparation.html

Haze is result of many things and is cleanable in 80%.

francotirador wrote:
If you have a solution for that I would like to know the secret. I have a Pentacon 29mm with two elements so, and not have glue. The lense are new, it seems that it affected some humidity. Maybe it's the same problem.


Pentacon 29mm has no glued elements. Haze is either normal condensation residue or coating degradation. If someone found a way to repair Meyer / Pentacon coating i am interested too.


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Posted: Sun May 06, 2012 1:44 am
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Posted: Sun May 06, 2012 1:44 am
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francotirador wrote:
If you have a solution for that I would like to know the secret. I have a Pentacon 29mm with two elements so, and not have glue. The lense are new, it seems that it affected some humidity. Maybe it's the same problem.


Pentacon 29mm has no glued elements. Haze is either normal condensation residue or coating degradation. If someone found a way to repair Meyer / Pentacon coating i am interested too.[/quote]

I think it has no solution. Just polishing the glass, and leave it without coating ..
Best regards...


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Posted: Sun May 06, 2012 9:23 am
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Posted: Sun May 06, 2012 9:23 am
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i dont know about the pentacon but when there is haze between two glued element its a degraded adhesive problem. i bought a smc pentax 55 1.8 that had haze between two glued elements.

and secret of solving this kind of problems is separating the glued elements in a controlled environment and after cleaning re-gluing them with an optical adhesive.


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Posted: Sun May 06, 2012 3:20 pm
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Posted: Sun May 06, 2012 3:20 pm
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Smoli4 wrote:
i dont know about the pentacon but when there is haze between two glued element its a degraded adhesive problem. i bought a smc pentax 55 1.8 that had haze between two glued elements.

and secret of solving this kind of problems is separating the glued elements in a controlled environment and after cleaning re-gluing them with an optical adhesive.


Test if the UV light, clears the Canadian balsam.
I think not, but it is easier to separate the glass.

good lucky


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Posted: Tue May 08, 2012 7:43 am
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Posted: Tue May 08, 2012 7:43 am
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Posted: Tue May 08, 2012 11:17 am
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Posted: Tue May 08, 2012 11:17 am
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An obvious job for Smoli there. I read somewhere slow warming might help separating elements or even reduce degradation of adhesive.


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Posted: Thu May 10, 2012 1:06 pm
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Posted: Thu May 10, 2012 1:06 pm
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Is it feasable at home to separate the two lenses and then reassemble them ?


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Posted: Thu May 10, 2012 1:41 pm
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Posted: Thu May 10, 2012 1:41 pm
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yes, it is possible. I would suggest taking a marker pen and making a mark before disassembling, to line up properly when reassembling. One can place the lens on a lightbulb and the heat will be enough to separate the elements. Be sure to wear "oven mits" when picking up the glass because it's HOT. Balsam glue can be found on the internet, and there are also new glass adhesives.
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