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Sigma SQ 300mm f/4 (M42)
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2011 8:42 pm    Post subject: Sigma SQ 300mm f/4 (M42) Reply with quote

I helped Calvin win an auction for this lens from eBay because the US seller didn't want to ship out of the country. Calvin has encouraged me to try it out before I send it on to him and even to post my results and opinions, so that's what this thread is about.

Okay, I'm guessing that the Sigma SQ 300mm f/4 was built sometime during the late 1970s. It is very robust in its construction -- all metal with a rubberized focusing collar. The front filter diameter is 77mm. It came with a metal front lens cap, but did not come with a hood. The lens uses a YS-PM M42 mount. It has no tripod collar, but sure would benefit from one.

Unique to this lens as far as I've ever seen is a second focusing collar that is used for close focusing (see photos below for more on this).

#1 Sigma 300mm f/4. Those strange reflections in the front element are branches and leaves from one of our oak trees.


#2 The Sigma 300mm has something called "Scalematic" with its own focusing scale. As near as I've been able to determine, the dimensions shown on the scale are the actual dimensions of the image at a given focal setting -- in feet and inches only, though. Both horizontal and vertical dimensions are listed. Kinda handy when you think about it.


#3 This is the section of the lens that extends using the second focusing helical. When used, it uncovers three close focusing ratios: 1/8, 1/5, and 1/4. The second focusing helical can be operated fully only when the lens is at its closest focus setting.


#4 The entire lens with the second focusing helical fully extended.


Next up are some images which will give you an idea of the lens's performance.


PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2011 10:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The camera I used for these tests is my Canon XS (1000D). I also used a sturdy tripod. The Canon was set to ISO 100. I used Live View and a 10-second self timer for focusing accuracy and to minimize camera-induced shake.

I was curious about the camera's close focusing capabilities using its 2nd focusing helical, so I decided to start there. Just looking through the viewfinder with the lens set to f/4 though, I could see quite a bit of flare/ghosting.

For this first test, I tried getting the helical set as close to 1/4 as I could.

#1 Yep, lots of flare/ghosting at f/4.


#2 Quite a bit better at f/8, though.


#3 And even better at f/16. I found that this lens exhibits essentially no diffraction-induced softness at f/16. I didn't test it at f/22.


All that foggy softness gave me an idea. I got to thinking that it just might be interesting using this lens for portraits because often this sort of effect can be interesting when taking portrait shots. But I was wondering if I'd be able to get far enough away from the subject and still have the ghosting. I decided to enlist the help of my daughter, Alex, to find out. She's a good sport, so she went for it.

The results were about what I was expecting. The most hazy shots were really too close up to be called portraits. Even so, I think I was able to get a few photos that were at least mildly interesting.

The unprocessed images:

#4 Closest focus.


#5 With the helical retracted a bit further


#6 And a bit further still


So, I decided to play around with the photos I took using a bit of curves adjustment with my image processing software. Just curves, no saturation, sharpening, or anything else.

#7


#8 This is real close to what I was picturing in my mind


#9 Same with this one, but #5's I like a bit better.


A couple more I took from just a bit further away, to which I also applied a curves pp adjustment.

#10



#11


Next up I'll show the results I was getting at mid-range distances. For this next series of tests, I also pulled out a few other lenses I have with 300mm focal lengths.


Last edited by cooltouch on Mon Mar 07, 2011 12:40 am; edited 1 time in total


PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2011 11:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cooltouch wrote:
The camera I used for these tests is my Canon XS (1000D). I also used a sturdy tripod. The Canon was set to ISO 100. I used Live View and a 10-second self timer for focusing accuracy and to minimize camera-induced shake.

I was curious about the camera's close focusing capabilities using its 2nd focusing helical, so I decided to start there. Just looking through the viewfinder with the lens set to f/4 though, I could see quite a bit of flare/ghosting.

For this first test, I tried getting the helical set as close to 1/4 as I could.

#1 Yep, lots of flare/ghosting at f/4.




i have sigma 100mm that acts also like that when using close focus (macro in my case, it goes to 1:1 ratio) capabilities, and also gives foggy photos, it seems to be a problem with sigma scalematic lenses , mine has one inner glass element covered with some white substance that can be seen when looking from the front of the lens with light coming from the rear of the lens. it's influence get's bigger as magnification ratio grows which is a shame because it would be a nice macro lens to have with nice distance from subject (0.9m minimum focus distance ).

check your lens for that kind of white substance on one of the inner lens elements, that's probably why it has foggy effect

EDIT: 0.9 minimum focus is in normal mode, goes even closer in macro mode , so no real distance from subject Confused


Last edited by WolverineX on Sun Mar 06, 2011 11:47 pm; edited 1 time in total


PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2011 11:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My 100mm Sigma lens in macro mode produce same unusable soft , foggy images , lens is in mint condition. In normal mode , nice portrait lens.


PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2011 11:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Attila wrote:
My 100mm Sigma lens in macro mode produce same unusable soft , foggy images , lens is in mint condition. In normal mode , nice portrait lens.


well, after my previous post i tryied that lens so i can post some samples of softness, and discovered that you have to stop down the lens to improve the results. it's color coded...for 1:4 ratio aperture 5.6 (green lettering), for 1:3 ratio apertures 8 and 11 (light blue lettering) , for 1:2 and 1:1 ratios apertures 16 and 22 (orange lettering)...


PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 12:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This dove was probably about 20 feet away. I didn't record the aperture, but I'm guessing it was probably around f/8. Sharpness and contrast are respectable, I think. I was hand-holding the lens and shooting with a shutter speed of around 1/200, so I just felt fortunate that I got a few shots that were as sharp as these. Both images are crops from larger ones, but they aren't 100% crops. A fair amount of chromatic aberration can be seen at this enlargement setting.

#1


#2


Next, I took aim at an old tree stump. The camera/lens combo was mounted on a tripod, and Live View with a self-timer was used.

#3 A photo of the old tree stump:


I have three zooms with 300mm at the long end of their focal range: a Tamron SP 60-300mm f/3.8-5.4, a Tokina 100-300mm f/4 SD, and a Canon EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6. I decided to see how the Sigma stacked up against them. I've combined images from the four lenses, all at 100%, into three composite images:

#4 All three lenses wide open. At f/4, the Sigma is showing rather strong ghosting compared to the threee zooms. The Tokina is the clear winner.


#5 By f/8, the Sigma has improved, but it is still exhibiting a noticeable amount of ghosting.


#6 By f/16, however, its sharpness and clarity is on par with the Tokina and Tamron. The Canon EF 75-300 is either having focusing difficulties (I was using AF) or is a woefully poor performer at f/16.


All of the above comparison images are showing some pixelation. I blame my POS entry-level Canon XS for this. When I zoom an image out past 80% this typically happens. The solution, is, of course, to turn the camera's sharpness way down and then not to boost sharpness when converting from RAW. But if I don't boost it somewhat, I'm stuck with images that are rather soft overall. So I just live with it, and look forward to the day I can replace this camera with a 5D II or equivalent.


Last edited by cooltouch on Mon Mar 07, 2011 2:46 am; edited 1 time in total


PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 12:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

WolverineX wrote:

check your lens for that kind of white substance on one of the inner lens elements, that's probably why it has foggy effect


No trace of any white substance with this lens. Just a couple of small dust specs. Otherwise the optics are crystal clear.


PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 1:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This lens doesn't seem to have a builtin hood - have you used a hood with it? That 77mm front element is probably very vulnerable to stray light.


PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 1:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally I compared the Sigma against the zooms at a distant setting -- close enough to infinity such that it makes no difference. I focused on a tree top over 100 meters distant from the camera. Once again, the camera and lens were mounted on a sturdy tripod, Live View was used, as was the self-timer.

Here is the entire scene:

#1


And the 100% composite comparisons:

#3


#4


#5


The Sigma showed steady improvement as smaller apertures were used. I was a bit surprised by the Tamron's performance. Usually it does very well, but not in this test. This could be due to changing light and wind conditions. The sun was moving in and out of the clouds for the entire time I was taking photos, which really affected shutter speeds, and the winds would gust, which caused motion-induced blur with quite a number of photos.

My conclusion: To me the Sigma is an interesting lens as a collectible because of its scalematic focusing range and its second focusing helical, and just because of its solid build quality. As a lens one would want to use for photography, I believe it can be a good performer as long as one is aware of its limitations.


PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 2:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Laurentiu Cristofor wrote:
This lens doesn't seem to have a builtin hood - have you used a hood with it? That 77mm front element is probably very vulnerable to stray light.


Yes, as I mentioned in the beginning, it didn't come with a hood. I agree that it would likely benefit from the use of a good hood.

For these tests, however, the camera was mostly in the shade, so the lack of a hood wasn't an issue.


PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 2:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That Tokina zoom seems to be real good compared with the other ones.


PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 4:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep. I haven't had it for very long, and the more I use it, the more I like it.


PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 7:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tried three Sigma System focus lenses. 4/200, 2.8/135 and Macro 2.8/100. All had the same crappy rendering as the 4/300 shown here. Low contrast, dull colors and so on. I made about 5 test shots with every and sold them. Maybe the 200 and 135 version stopped down to f4 or f5.6 was usable.
Sadly, the build quality of these lenses is much better than it's optical performance.


PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 12:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting results! The two copies of the Tamron SP 60-300 I had were both very sharp indeed from f8, but that Tokina looks fantastic.

As for the Sigma, I'm sorry to say that it fits in the same camp as most other Sigmas from that era...pretty awful! In fact, I'd say performance is completetly unacceptable.


PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 1:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm sorry too, but the Sigma is not suitable for normal photography. I cannot even remember when I had to resort to f/16 to get "acceptable" pictures. If it's about the soft focus effect then a heavily scratched filter in front of good glass would also work Smile

Note to self: never buy pre-2000's Sigma lenses. Smile


PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ManualFocus-G wrote:
Interesting results! The two copies of the Tamron SP 60-300 I had were both very sharp indeed from f8, but that Tokina looks fantastic.

As for the Sigma, I'm sorry to say that it fits in the same camp as most other Sigmas from that era...pretty awful! In fact, I'd say performance is completetly unacceptable.

+1 crapiest prime what I ever seen.


PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 4:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, the reason why I said the Sigma could be a good performer as long as one is aware of its limitations is simply because I was able to get some decent photos with it after I'd learned of its limitations. Which, sadly, are many. And I think I was able to use the softness to good effect with the portraits.

As for not buying any pre-2000 Sigma lenses, well I dunno. I haven't used that many Sigmas over the years, except for one -- the 600mm f/8 mirror. And that lens was actually very good. Its continued high prices on eBay suggest that other photographers realize its quality too. Sigma also produced some MF APO lenses during the late 1980s. I've never used one, but at the time as I recall they had a pretty decent reputation.


Last edited by cooltouch on Mon Mar 07, 2011 5:05 pm; edited 1 time in total


PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 5:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Typical Sigma , some of them stunning like what you said this mirror lens, many of them a piece of junk like this lens.

I am very satisfied with 400mm f5.6 APO lens , I had previous version labeled to MC it was really , really crap.


PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello. the Tokina results look really impressive!. My Tamron 60-300 has its sweet spot around f11-f16, but yours looks around f8.
The flare/ghosting/fogginess from the Sigma at close range is actually uncorrected spherical aberration. It is quite typical from lenses with a double helical, one of them for macro. The standard helical usually moves the whole lens, but the second one (macro) only the frontal group, actually changing the focal length and introducing as a side effect some spherical aberration. This is the same procedure used in old folders to achieve focus. Closing the lens reduces the aberration, so you can select (sort of) the amount of flare/fog. Regards

Javier


PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2011 4:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cooltouch wrote:

For these tests, however, the camera was mostly in the shade, so the lack of a hood wasn't an issue.


When I got the VS1 35-85/2.8, I couldn't get a single decent shot with it. It didn't matter if the sun was in the clouds or if I was in the shade - every shot would be washed out - like your results from this lens. Awful. I got a hood for it and it was a different lens. More recently, I had a similar experience with the Vivitar 250/4.5 - first shots without hood also came washed out. Some lenses really require a hood to be of any use.

You don't have to spend money on a hood - just get some black cardboard, roll it over the front of the lens and tape it there, then repeat your tests. I'd be surprised if you don't see a difference.


PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2011 4:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Laurentiu Cristofor wrote:

You don't have to spend money on a hood - just get some black cardboard, roll it over the front of the lens and tape it there, then repeat your tests. I'd be surprised if you don't see a difference.


Thanks for the info. Yeah, typically I'll use some black construction paper if I have any handy for this, just didn't think of it this time because I was in the shade. Dunno if I'll repeat the test, though. Maybe Calvin might -- it's his lens.


PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2011 5:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cooltouch wrote:
Well, the reason why I said the Sigma could be a good performer as long as one is aware of its limitations is simply because I was able to get some decent photos with it after I'd learned of its limitations. Which, sadly, are many. And I think I was able to use the softness to good effect with the portraits.

As for not buying any pre-2000 Sigma lenses, well I dunno. I haven't used that many Sigmas over the years, except for one -- the 600mm f/8 mirror. And that lens was actually very good. Its continued high prices on eBay suggest that other photographers realize its quality too. Sigma also produced some MF APO lenses during the late 1980s. I've never used one, but at the time as I recall they had a pretty decent reputation.

The Sigmas 8/600 Mirror is a capable performer. I have upload the 8mp sample below(I don't use a tripod on this photo).

I will try the lens again when I find a suitable hood for it. I don't expect it will be a good performer but it will be a good collectable item and lovely toy. Wink

Sigmas 8/600 Mirror(chick to see the full size image, raw to jpeg)


PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2011 7:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A timely test on this lens,I saw one and was wondering if it might be worth a bid due to the unusual scalemetric settings.
Very Happy Thanks Michael and calvin.


PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2011 8:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a Sigma XQ 200mm with two focusing rings. Nice close focusing (1m). Test without hood delivers results as bad as the 300mm. Just found a hood on a fleamarket, but have not tested if there is a difference (I don't have much hope).
First trials with a 55mm macro focusing (1:2) 55mm 2.8 are not very encouraging so far.
But my old 135mm 1.8 is only soft WO, and after some stopping down really good.


PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 4:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It has been sometime after I get this lens but I have no time and equipment to use it. Here is some test photo taken today with tripod, lens support and long hood, trigger by remote.

All photos are 100% crop without PP or sharpens applied. Taken with NEX 5N with ISO 200.

Test scene:


F4



F5.6



F8



F11



I think lens is quiet usable with at F8/11 with a bit CA removal and sharpen. A long hood is needed or the flare will make the photo lacks contrast.