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nixland
Joined: 30 Jan 2011
Posts: 577
Expire: 2012-07-29
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 Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 11:37 am Post subject: |
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nixland wrote:
| ForenSeil wrote: |
Do you habe an MF-Check lens or any other digial zoom function on you camera?
Maybe it's only defocused. If wrong focus isnt the problem, open the lens (very easy) and look for loose elements.
My pics are looking sharper!
My Cyclop had marking (like the Cyclop from kds). Maybe there are different versions or different manufacturers (more likely). |
I just had time to take a look my Cyclop and your suspicion might be true.
I observed at the rear element and it looks uneven (see photo #1 & #2)
I never disassemble a lens before so please guide me. There are rear screws and side screws?
Anyway I have to buy a tiny screwdriver first 
_________________
Carl Zeiss Jena: Biotar 58/2 1Q, DDR Pancolar 80/1.8 MC, Biotar 75/1.5, Biotar 10cm/2, DDR Sonnar 135/3.5 MC
Carl Zeiss C/Y: Planar 50/1.4 T*, Planar 85/1.4 T*, Planar 100/2 T*, Sonnar 135/2.8 T*
Leica: Summicron-R 35/2 v1, Summicron-R 50/2, Summilux-R 80/1.4, Summicron-R 90/2
Pentax: A 50/1.2
Minolta: Rokkor MC 58/1.2, Rokkor MC 85/1.7, Rokkor MC 100/2, MD 200/2.8
Olympus: Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2, Zuiko 50/1.2, Zuiko MC Auto-T 85/2, Zuiko Auto-T 100/2
Nikon: Nikkor 28/2.8 Ais, Nikkor 85/1.8, Nikkor 105/1.8, 300/2.8 ED (Ais)
Canon: FD 50/1.2 L, FD 85/1.2 L
Sony: 135/2.8 STF
Jupiter: 85/2 Alu
Cyclop: 85/1.5
Meyer-Optic: Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5
Samyang: 8/3.5 FE, 14/2.8, 85/1.4, 85/1.4 UMC
FOR SALE
Carl Zeiss Jena Biotar 10cm/2 || Carl Zeiss ZE Distagon 28/2 || Minolta Rokkor MD 35/1.8 || Rokkor-X MC 85/1.7 || Rokkor MD 85/1.7 || Olympus Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2 || Olympus 100/2 || Nikon Nikkor 35/1.4 || Canon: FD 55/1.2 || Vivitar 90/2.5 Series 1 VMC || Tamron: 90/2.5 SP
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ForenSeil
Joined: 15 Apr 2011
Posts: 2726
Location: Kiel, Germany.
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| Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 1:54 pm Post subject: |
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ForenSeil wrote:
| nixland wrote: |
| ForenSeil wrote: |
Do you habe an MF-Check lens or any other digial zoom function on you camera?
Maybe it's only defocused. If wrong focus isnt the problem, open the lens (very easy) and look for loose elements.
My pics are looking sharper!
My Cyclop had marking (like the Cyclop from kds). Maybe there are different versions or different manufacturers (more likely). |
I just had time to take a look my Cyclop and your suspicion might be true.
I observed at the rear element and it looks uneven (see photo #1 & #2)
I never disassemble a lens before so please guide me. There are rear screws and side screws?
Anyway I have to buy a tiny screwdriver first
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The Cyclop is very easy to disassamble. I think you don't even need a "tiny" screwdriver!
You don't have to open the screws(? are all of them screws?) in the mount you showed.
You only have to screw (rotate) of the black ring in about the middel of the lens (can be done by hand)
Under this cover are 3 middle sized screws.
After you removed the screws you can rotate the helicoid until you have two parts.
Now the rear elements should be easily accessible
_________________
I'm not a collector, I'm a tester
My camera: Sony A7+Zeiss Sonnar 55/1.8
Current favourite lenses (I have many more):
A few macro-Tominons, Samyang 12/2.8, Noritsu 50.7/9.5, Rodagon 105/5.6 on bellows, Samyang 135/2, Nikon ED 180/2.8, Leitz Elmar-R 250/4, Celestron C8 2000mm F10
Most wanted: Samyang 24/1.4, Samyang 35/1.4, Nikon 200/2 ED
My Blog: http://picturechemistry.own-blog.com/
(German language)
Last edited by ForenSeil on Mon Jan 09, 2012 2:21 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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ForenSeil
Joined: 15 Apr 2011
Posts: 2726
Location: Kiel, Germany.
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| Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 2:20 pm Post subject: |
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ForenSeil wrote:
Here I made a little tutorial how to disassamble the Cyclop 85mm F1.5 to get to the rear element.
It's the easiest lens I've ever opened very "russian-style"  (easy but nearly indestructible construction)
1) Remove the cover in about the middle of the lens
2) First remove the 3 middle sized screws under the cover and after that rotate the helicoid like focusing closer...
... until you removed the mount
3) Now the rear element can be opened by screwing off the ring.
Behind the rear element it would be easy to attach a custom aperture
_________________
I'm not a collector, I'm a tester
My camera: Sony A7+Zeiss Sonnar 55/1.8
Current favourite lenses (I have many more):
A few macro-Tominons, Samyang 12/2.8, Noritsu 50.7/9.5, Rodagon 105/5.6 on bellows, Samyang 135/2, Nikon ED 180/2.8, Leitz Elmar-R 250/4, Celestron C8 2000mm F10
Most wanted: Samyang 24/1.4, Samyang 35/1.4, Nikon 200/2 ED
My Blog: http://picturechemistry.own-blog.com/
(German language) |
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nixland
Joined: 30 Jan 2011
Posts: 577
Expire: 2012-07-29
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| Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 2:46 pm Post subject: |
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nixland wrote:
@ForenSeil: Thank you very much for the advice and complete instruction. Very appreciate it. I'll do it right away
_________________
Carl Zeiss Jena: Biotar 58/2 1Q, DDR Pancolar 80/1.8 MC, Biotar 75/1.5, Biotar 10cm/2, DDR Sonnar 135/3.5 MC
Carl Zeiss C/Y: Planar 50/1.4 T*, Planar 85/1.4 T*, Planar 100/2 T*, Sonnar 135/2.8 T*
Leica: Summicron-R 35/2 v1, Summicron-R 50/2, Summilux-R 80/1.4, Summicron-R 90/2
Pentax: A 50/1.2
Minolta: Rokkor MC 58/1.2, Rokkor MC 85/1.7, Rokkor MC 100/2, MD 200/2.8
Olympus: Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2, Zuiko 50/1.2, Zuiko MC Auto-T 85/2, Zuiko Auto-T 100/2
Nikon: Nikkor 28/2.8 Ais, Nikkor 85/1.8, Nikkor 105/1.8, 300/2.8 ED (Ais)
Canon: FD 50/1.2 L, FD 85/1.2 L
Sony: 135/2.8 STF
Jupiter: 85/2 Alu
Cyclop: 85/1.5
Meyer-Optic: Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5
Samyang: 8/3.5 FE, 14/2.8, 85/1.4, 85/1.4 UMC
FOR SALE
Carl Zeiss Jena Biotar 10cm/2 || Carl Zeiss ZE Distagon 28/2 || Minolta Rokkor MD 35/1.8 || Rokkor-X MC 85/1.7 || Rokkor MD 85/1.7 || Olympus Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2 || Olympus 100/2 || Nikon Nikkor 35/1.4 || Canon: FD 55/1.2 || Vivitar 90/2.5 Series 1 VMC || Tamron: 90/2.5 SP
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nixland
Joined: 30 Jan 2011
Posts: 577
Expire: 2012-07-29
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| Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 3:36 pm Post subject: |
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nixland wrote:
On the last step, I can not screw the ring. How should I do it?
By the way it looks obvious that the rear element is uneven.
_________________
Carl Zeiss Jena: Biotar 58/2 1Q, DDR Pancolar 80/1.8 MC, Biotar 75/1.5, Biotar 10cm/2, DDR Sonnar 135/3.5 MC
Carl Zeiss C/Y: Planar 50/1.4 T*, Planar 85/1.4 T*, Planar 100/2 T*, Sonnar 135/2.8 T*
Leica: Summicron-R 35/2 v1, Summicron-R 50/2, Summilux-R 80/1.4, Summicron-R 90/2
Pentax: A 50/1.2
Minolta: Rokkor MC 58/1.2, Rokkor MC 85/1.7, Rokkor MC 100/2, MD 200/2.8
Olympus: Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2, Zuiko 50/1.2, Zuiko MC Auto-T 85/2, Zuiko Auto-T 100/2
Nikon: Nikkor 28/2.8 Ais, Nikkor 85/1.8, Nikkor 105/1.8, 300/2.8 ED (Ais)
Canon: FD 50/1.2 L, FD 85/1.2 L
Sony: 135/2.8 STF
Jupiter: 85/2 Alu
Cyclop: 85/1.5
Meyer-Optic: Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5
Samyang: 8/3.5 FE, 14/2.8, 85/1.4, 85/1.4 UMC
FOR SALE
Carl Zeiss Jena Biotar 10cm/2 || Carl Zeiss ZE Distagon 28/2 || Minolta Rokkor MD 35/1.8 || Rokkor-X MC 85/1.7 || Rokkor MD 85/1.7 || Olympus Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2 || Olympus 100/2 || Nikon Nikkor 35/1.4 || Canon: FD 55/1.2 || Vivitar 90/2.5 Series 1 VMC || Tamron: 90/2.5 SP
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nixland
Joined: 30 Jan 2011
Posts: 577
Expire: 2012-07-29
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| Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 4:32 pm Post subject: |
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nixland wrote:
Yesss! .... a success!!
I just press gently at the inclined part of the rear element and it's finally at the same level. Put it all back. Took a shot and ... it's sharp!! The severe glow and softness is gone!!
Thank you very very much ForenSeil! You're my saviour!
_________________
Carl Zeiss Jena: Biotar 58/2 1Q, DDR Pancolar 80/1.8 MC, Biotar 75/1.5, Biotar 10cm/2, DDR Sonnar 135/3.5 MC
Carl Zeiss C/Y: Planar 50/1.4 T*, Planar 85/1.4 T*, Planar 100/2 T*, Sonnar 135/2.8 T*
Leica: Summicron-R 35/2 v1, Summicron-R 50/2, Summilux-R 80/1.4, Summicron-R 90/2
Pentax: A 50/1.2
Minolta: Rokkor MC 58/1.2, Rokkor MC 85/1.7, Rokkor MC 100/2, MD 200/2.8
Olympus: Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2, Zuiko 50/1.2, Zuiko MC Auto-T 85/2, Zuiko Auto-T 100/2
Nikon: Nikkor 28/2.8 Ais, Nikkor 85/1.8, Nikkor 105/1.8, 300/2.8 ED (Ais)
Canon: FD 50/1.2 L, FD 85/1.2 L
Sony: 135/2.8 STF
Jupiter: 85/2 Alu
Cyclop: 85/1.5
Meyer-Optic: Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5
Samyang: 8/3.5 FE, 14/2.8, 85/1.4, 85/1.4 UMC
FOR SALE
Carl Zeiss Jena Biotar 10cm/2 || Carl Zeiss ZE Distagon 28/2 || Minolta Rokkor MD 35/1.8 || Rokkor-X MC 85/1.7 || Rokkor MD 85/1.7 || Olympus Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2 || Olympus 100/2 || Nikon Nikkor 35/1.4 || Canon: FD 55/1.2 || Vivitar 90/2.5 Series 1 VMC || Tamron: 90/2.5 SP
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Kathmandu
Joined: 09 Dec 2009
Posts: 1479
Location: (Kathmandu,Nepal. Currently)Pacific Northwest, USA
Expire: 2012-04-08
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| Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 9:06 pm Post subject: |
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Kathmandu wrote:
ForenSeil: Thanks for posting that detailed -dismantling procedure. You ever figure out how to fix the "waggle" as you so eloquently put?
Nixland: Glad to hear your fix was simple enough  .
_________________
kathmandu
Sony α 700 DSLR
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nixland
Joined: 30 Jan 2011
Posts: 577
Expire: 2012-07-29
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| Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 3:41 pm Post subject: |
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nixland wrote:
After some tests, It's official now ... I pronounce myself a Cyclopian! ...
Love this lens! Quite unbelievable that a clunky odd looking black metal old lens can produce a lovely rendering image .. sharp and the color/contrast is quite good (no color cast).
And it's smaller and lighter than my Helios 40-2!
I haven't tested it outdoor and haven't compared it yet with the Helios 40-2, but from some shots I took it looks very very impressive.
I begin to think of selling my Helios 40-2
_________________
Carl Zeiss Jena: Biotar 58/2 1Q, DDR Pancolar 80/1.8 MC, Biotar 75/1.5, Biotar 10cm/2, DDR Sonnar 135/3.5 MC
Carl Zeiss C/Y: Planar 50/1.4 T*, Planar 85/1.4 T*, Planar 100/2 T*, Sonnar 135/2.8 T*
Leica: Summicron-R 35/2 v1, Summicron-R 50/2, Summilux-R 80/1.4, Summicron-R 90/2
Pentax: A 50/1.2
Minolta: Rokkor MC 58/1.2, Rokkor MC 85/1.7, Rokkor MC 100/2, MD 200/2.8
Olympus: Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2, Zuiko 50/1.2, Zuiko MC Auto-T 85/2, Zuiko Auto-T 100/2
Nikon: Nikkor 28/2.8 Ais, Nikkor 85/1.8, Nikkor 105/1.8, 300/2.8 ED (Ais)
Canon: FD 50/1.2 L, FD 85/1.2 L
Sony: 135/2.8 STF
Jupiter: 85/2 Alu
Cyclop: 85/1.5
Meyer-Optic: Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5
Samyang: 8/3.5 FE, 14/2.8, 85/1.4, 85/1.4 UMC
FOR SALE
Carl Zeiss Jena Biotar 10cm/2 || Carl Zeiss ZE Distagon 28/2 || Minolta Rokkor MD 35/1.8 || Rokkor-X MC 85/1.7 || Rokkor MD 85/1.7 || Olympus Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2 || Olympus 100/2 || Nikon Nikkor 35/1.4 || Canon: FD 55/1.2 || Vivitar 90/2.5 Series 1 VMC || Tamron: 90/2.5 SP
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nixland
Joined: 30 Jan 2011
Posts: 577
Expire: 2012-07-29
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| Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 3:46 pm Post subject: |
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nixland wrote:
Now I wonder how is the performance of it's brother : Cyclop 85mm f/1.2....
_________________
Carl Zeiss Jena: Biotar 58/2 1Q, DDR Pancolar 80/1.8 MC, Biotar 75/1.5, Biotar 10cm/2, DDR Sonnar 135/3.5 MC
Carl Zeiss C/Y: Planar 50/1.4 T*, Planar 85/1.4 T*, Planar 100/2 T*, Sonnar 135/2.8 T*
Leica: Summicron-R 35/2 v1, Summicron-R 50/2, Summilux-R 80/1.4, Summicron-R 90/2
Pentax: A 50/1.2
Minolta: Rokkor MC 58/1.2, Rokkor MC 85/1.7, Rokkor MC 100/2, MD 200/2.8
Olympus: Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2, Zuiko 50/1.2, Zuiko MC Auto-T 85/2, Zuiko Auto-T 100/2
Nikon: Nikkor 28/2.8 Ais, Nikkor 85/1.8, Nikkor 105/1.8, 300/2.8 ED (Ais)
Canon: FD 50/1.2 L, FD 85/1.2 L
Sony: 135/2.8 STF
Jupiter: 85/2 Alu
Cyclop: 85/1.5
Meyer-Optic: Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5
Samyang: 8/3.5 FE, 14/2.8, 85/1.4, 85/1.4 UMC
FOR SALE
Carl Zeiss Jena Biotar 10cm/2 || Carl Zeiss ZE Distagon 28/2 || Minolta Rokkor MD 35/1.8 || Rokkor-X MC 85/1.7 || Rokkor MD 85/1.7 || Olympus Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2 || Olympus 100/2 || Nikon Nikkor 35/1.4 || Canon: FD 55/1.2 || Vivitar 90/2.5 Series 1 VMC || Tamron: 90/2.5 SP
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nixland
Joined: 30 Jan 2011
Posts: 577
Expire: 2012-07-29
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| Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 10:26 am Post subject: |
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nixland wrote:
I just found another problem. My Cyclop can only focus less than 10 meters.
Problem with my copy?
_________________
Carl Zeiss Jena: Biotar 58/2 1Q, DDR Pancolar 80/1.8 MC, Biotar 75/1.5, Biotar 10cm/2, DDR Sonnar 135/3.5 MC
Carl Zeiss C/Y: Planar 50/1.4 T*, Planar 85/1.4 T*, Planar 100/2 T*, Sonnar 135/2.8 T*
Leica: Summicron-R 35/2 v1, Summicron-R 50/2, Summilux-R 80/1.4, Summicron-R 90/2
Pentax: A 50/1.2
Minolta: Rokkor MC 58/1.2, Rokkor MC 85/1.7, Rokkor MC 100/2, MD 200/2.8
Olympus: Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2, Zuiko 50/1.2, Zuiko MC Auto-T 85/2, Zuiko Auto-T 100/2
Nikon: Nikkor 28/2.8 Ais, Nikkor 85/1.8, Nikkor 105/1.8, 300/2.8 ED (Ais)
Canon: FD 50/1.2 L, FD 85/1.2 L
Sony: 135/2.8 STF
Jupiter: 85/2 Alu
Cyclop: 85/1.5
Meyer-Optic: Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5
Samyang: 8/3.5 FE, 14/2.8, 85/1.4, 85/1.4 UMC
FOR SALE
Carl Zeiss Jena Biotar 10cm/2 || Carl Zeiss ZE Distagon 28/2 || Minolta Rokkor MD 35/1.8 || Rokkor-X MC 85/1.7 || Rokkor MD 85/1.7 || Olympus Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2 || Olympus 100/2 || Nikon Nikkor 35/1.4 || Canon: FD 55/1.2 || Vivitar 90/2.5 Series 1 VMC || Tamron: 90/2.5 SP
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ForenSeil
Joined: 15 Apr 2011
Posts: 2726
Location: Kiel, Germany.
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| Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 12:41 pm Post subject: |
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ForenSeil wrote:
| nixland wrote: |
| Now I wonder how is the performance of it's brother : Cyclop 85mm f/1.2.... |
I heard it's softer and has a longer focal length than stated
And it has a very long rear element, so it can be only used for cloeseups or on NEX or MFT
| nixland wrote: |
I just found another problem. My Cyclop can only focus less than 10 meters.
Problem with my copy? |
I also have the same problem. At infinity it gets soft/does not reach infinity, only 15m or something. I think in my case it's a problem with my adapter.
_________________
I'm not a collector, I'm a tester
My camera: Sony A7+Zeiss Sonnar 55/1.8
Current favourite lenses (I have many more):
A few macro-Tominons, Samyang 12/2.8, Noritsu 50.7/9.5, Rodagon 105/5.6 on bellows, Samyang 135/2, Nikon ED 180/2.8, Leitz Elmar-R 250/4, Celestron C8 2000mm F10
Most wanted: Samyang 24/1.4, Samyang 35/1.4, Nikon 200/2 ED
My Blog: http://picturechemistry.own-blog.com/
(German language) |
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nixland
Joined: 30 Jan 2011
Posts: 577
Expire: 2012-07-29
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| Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 1:36 pm Post subject: |
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nixland wrote:
| ForenSeil wrote: |
| nixland wrote: |
| Now I wonder how is the performance of it's brother : Cyclop 85mm f/1.2.... |
I heard it's softer and has a longer focal length than stated
And it has a very long rear element, so it can be only used for cloeseups or on NEX or MFT
|
Just found the sample images from this page and yes it looks super soft:
http://www.canonclubitalia.com/public/forum/85mm-f-1-2-Russo-su-corpi-Canon-t148296.html
I wonder if it was caused by uneven optic like my previous experience.
| Quote: |
| nixland wrote: |
I just found another problem. My Cyclop can only focus less than 10 meters.
Problem with my copy? |
I also have the same problem. At infinity it gets soft/does not reach infinity, only 15m or something. I think in my case it's a problem with my adapter. |
Thanks for the info. Glad to hear that it's not just my lens.
My friend said that his cyclop can reach infinity though I need to test it directly.
_________________
Carl Zeiss Jena: Biotar 58/2 1Q, DDR Pancolar 80/1.8 MC, Biotar 75/1.5, Biotar 10cm/2, DDR Sonnar 135/3.5 MC
Carl Zeiss C/Y: Planar 50/1.4 T*, Planar 85/1.4 T*, Planar 100/2 T*, Sonnar 135/2.8 T*
Leica: Summicron-R 35/2 v1, Summicron-R 50/2, Summilux-R 80/1.4, Summicron-R 90/2
Pentax: A 50/1.2
Minolta: Rokkor MC 58/1.2, Rokkor MC 85/1.7, Rokkor MC 100/2, MD 200/2.8
Olympus: Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2, Zuiko 50/1.2, Zuiko MC Auto-T 85/2, Zuiko Auto-T 100/2
Nikon: Nikkor 28/2.8 Ais, Nikkor 85/1.8, Nikkor 105/1.8, 300/2.8 ED (Ais)
Canon: FD 50/1.2 L, FD 85/1.2 L
Sony: 135/2.8 STF
Jupiter: 85/2 Alu
Cyclop: 85/1.5
Meyer-Optic: Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5
Samyang: 8/3.5 FE, 14/2.8, 85/1.4, 85/1.4 UMC
FOR SALE
Carl Zeiss Jena Biotar 10cm/2 || Carl Zeiss ZE Distagon 28/2 || Minolta Rokkor MD 35/1.8 || Rokkor-X MC 85/1.7 || Rokkor MD 85/1.7 || Olympus Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2 || Olympus 100/2 || Nikon Nikkor 35/1.4 || Canon: FD 55/1.2 || Vivitar 90/2.5 Series 1 VMC || Tamron: 90/2.5 SP
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woodrim
Joined: 14 Jan 2010
Posts: 4060
Location: Charleston
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| Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 5:15 pm Post subject: |
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woodrim wrote:
Mine reaches infinity, although I rarely if ever shoot it that way. I'm wondering about your solution to just push the rear element into place - that doesn't sound right. It should screw into place securely, so if yours can be pushed, it sounds like it isn't secure. My rear element was loose when I first got it, and while focusing was a challenge, it provided some interesting effects that disappeared when I tightened it.
_________________
Regards,
Woodrim |
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nixland
Joined: 30 Jan 2011
Posts: 577
Expire: 2012-07-29
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| Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2012 9:46 am Post subject: |
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nixland wrote:
| woodrim wrote: |
| Mine reaches infinity, although I rarely if ever shoot it that way. I'm wondering about your solution to just push the rear element into place - that doesn't sound right. It should screw into place securely, so if yours can be pushed, it sounds like it isn't secure. My rear element was loose when I first got it, and while focusing was a challenge, it provided some interesting effects that disappeared when I tightened it. |
OK, thanks for the info.
Tonight I'll try to open the lens again and check if I can make any adjustment on the rear element.
_________________
Carl Zeiss Jena: Biotar 58/2 1Q, DDR Pancolar 80/1.8 MC, Biotar 75/1.5, Biotar 10cm/2, DDR Sonnar 135/3.5 MC
Carl Zeiss C/Y: Planar 50/1.4 T*, Planar 85/1.4 T*, Planar 100/2 T*, Sonnar 135/2.8 T*
Leica: Summicron-R 35/2 v1, Summicron-R 50/2, Summilux-R 80/1.4, Summicron-R 90/2
Pentax: A 50/1.2
Minolta: Rokkor MC 58/1.2, Rokkor MC 85/1.7, Rokkor MC 100/2, MD 200/2.8
Olympus: Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2, Zuiko 50/1.2, Zuiko MC Auto-T 85/2, Zuiko Auto-T 100/2
Nikon: Nikkor 28/2.8 Ais, Nikkor 85/1.8, Nikkor 105/1.8, 300/2.8 ED (Ais)
Canon: FD 50/1.2 L, FD 85/1.2 L
Sony: 135/2.8 STF
Jupiter: 85/2 Alu
Cyclop: 85/1.5
Meyer-Optic: Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5
Samyang: 8/3.5 FE, 14/2.8, 85/1.4, 85/1.4 UMC
FOR SALE
Carl Zeiss Jena Biotar 10cm/2 || Carl Zeiss ZE Distagon 28/2 || Minolta Rokkor MD 35/1.8 || Rokkor-X MC 85/1.7 || Rokkor MD 85/1.7 || Olympus Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2 || Olympus 100/2 || Nikon Nikkor 35/1.4 || Canon: FD 55/1.2 || Vivitar 90/2.5 Series 1 VMC || Tamron: 90/2.5 SP
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Pancolart
Joined: 04 Feb 2008
Posts: 3693
Location: Slovenia, EU
Expire: 2013-11-18
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| Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2012 1:45 pm Post subject: |
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Pancolart wrote:
If you have followed ForenSeil tutorial you might have just started to screw the system back on wrong place and lost infinity. In case only rear part wouldn't be screwed fully in you'd be shooting past infinity.
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The Peculiar Apparatus Of Victorian Steampunk Photography: 100+ Genuine Steampunk Camera Designs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B92829NS |
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ForenSeil
Joined: 15 Apr 2011
Posts: 2726
Location: Kiel, Germany.
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| Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2012 5:44 pm Post subject: |
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ForenSeil wrote:
As said it a has very easy focusing mechanism, I think it's impossible that infinty get's lost during such a minimal invasive operation.
I'm pretty sure it's an simple adapter problem. Nothing to worry about.
| Quote: |
| On the last step, I can not screw the ring. How should I do it? |
Such a stuck ring is well known problem to anyone who opened some lenses.
They can be found in nearly all lenses.
There are special tools to open such rings, for example this one:
http://www.micro-tools.de/en/Lens-Tools-oxid/Spanner-Wrench-Pointed-Imported.html
But in such a case a simple toothpick, screwdriver or a forceps should do the trick.
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I'm not a collector, I'm a tester
My camera: Sony A7+Zeiss Sonnar 55/1.8
Current favourite lenses (I have many more):
A few macro-Tominons, Samyang 12/2.8, Noritsu 50.7/9.5, Rodagon 105/5.6 on bellows, Samyang 135/2, Nikon ED 180/2.8, Leitz Elmar-R 250/4, Celestron C8 2000mm F10
Most wanted: Samyang 24/1.4, Samyang 35/1.4, Nikon 200/2 ED
My Blog: http://picturechemistry.own-blog.com/
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nixland
Joined: 30 Jan 2011
Posts: 577
Expire: 2012-07-29
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| Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 5:06 am Post subject: |
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nixland wrote:
| ForenSeil wrote: |
As said it a has very easy focusing mechanism, I think it's impossible that infinty get's lost during such a minimal invasive operation.
I'm pretty sure it's an simple adapter problem. Nothing to worry about.
| Quote: |
| On the last step, I can not screw the ring. How should I do it? |
Such a stuck ring is well known problem to anyone who opened some lenses.
They can be found in nearly all lenses.
There are special tools to open such rings, for example this one:
http://www.micro-tools.de/en/Lens-Tools-oxid/Spanner-Wrench-Pointed-Imported.html
But in such a case a simple toothpick, screwdriver or a forceps should do the trick. |
Yes I think so. It's unlikely that the infinity problem is due to unproper way of putting back the lens because it has very simple mechanism. Just one screw tube.
I observed the lens rear mount and I saw that the inner side protrudes a little.
I try to use the black adapter instead of the cheap silver adapter and it can focus max 80-100 meters (I check the distance using google map)
Btw the rear element is unsecure, not firmed. Maybe this could be the other cause of losing infinity focus.
I'll try again to unscrew the ring as you has suggested above
_________________
Carl Zeiss Jena: Biotar 58/2 1Q, DDR Pancolar 80/1.8 MC, Biotar 75/1.5, Biotar 10cm/2, DDR Sonnar 135/3.5 MC
Carl Zeiss C/Y: Planar 50/1.4 T*, Planar 85/1.4 T*, Planar 100/2 T*, Sonnar 135/2.8 T*
Leica: Summicron-R 35/2 v1, Summicron-R 50/2, Summilux-R 80/1.4, Summicron-R 90/2
Pentax: A 50/1.2
Minolta: Rokkor MC 58/1.2, Rokkor MC 85/1.7, Rokkor MC 100/2, MD 200/2.8
Olympus: Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2, Zuiko 50/1.2, Zuiko MC Auto-T 85/2, Zuiko Auto-T 100/2
Nikon: Nikkor 28/2.8 Ais, Nikkor 85/1.8, Nikkor 105/1.8, 300/2.8 ED (Ais)
Canon: FD 50/1.2 L, FD 85/1.2 L
Sony: 135/2.8 STF
Jupiter: 85/2 Alu
Cyclop: 85/1.5
Meyer-Optic: Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5
Samyang: 8/3.5 FE, 14/2.8, 85/1.4, 85/1.4 UMC
FOR SALE
Carl Zeiss Jena Biotar 10cm/2 || Carl Zeiss ZE Distagon 28/2 || Minolta Rokkor MD 35/1.8 || Rokkor-X MC 85/1.7 || Rokkor MD 85/1.7 || Olympus Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2 || Olympus 100/2 || Nikon Nikkor 35/1.4 || Canon: FD 55/1.2 || Vivitar 90/2.5 Series 1 VMC || Tamron: 90/2.5 SP
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Pancolart
Joined: 04 Feb 2008
Posts: 3693
Location: Slovenia, EU
Expire: 2013-11-18
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| Posted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 4:43 pm Post subject: |
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Pancolart wrote:
Finally I had time to complete custom inserted aperture. It's somewhere between F1.7-2.5. Regular circle, nice matte material.
Samples made on bright winter daylight and around -10 Celsius thus i had to hurry . Colors adjusted in post-production.
Next i will made fat triangular one (like Distagon). The lens above is for sale in marketplace: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic,p,1207302.html#1207302
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The Peculiar Apparatus Of Victorian Steampunk Photography: 100+ Genuine Steampunk Camera Designs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B92829NS |
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Kram
Joined: 06 Feb 2010
Posts: 1344
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 5:54 pm Post subject: |
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Kram wrote:
Looks good!
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Kathmandu
Joined: 09 Dec 2009
Posts: 1479
Location: (Kathmandu,Nepal. Currently)Pacific Northwest, USA
Expire: 2012-04-08
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| Posted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 8:02 pm Post subject: |
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Kathmandu wrote:
| Pancolart wrote: |
| Finally I had time to complete custom inserted aperture. |
Be nice if you could share your modification , did you just put a cut board in front of the lens?- lovely images btw.
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kathmandu
Sony α 700 DSLR
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Pancolart
Joined: 04 Feb 2008
Posts: 3693
Location: Slovenia, EU
Expire: 2013-11-18
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| Posted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 9:32 pm Post subject: |
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Pancolart wrote:
I put photo into marketplace but here it is too:
Aperture is placed in the middle, where it should be. I used some LF or X-ray aperture i had (those that are replaceable and of different sizes),
it's thin alu and matte. I just needed to trim a bit the outer rim to fit.
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The Peculiar Apparatus Of Victorian Steampunk Photography: 100+ Genuine Steampunk Camera Designs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B92829NS |
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Kathmandu
Joined: 09 Dec 2009
Posts: 1479
Location: (Kathmandu,Nepal. Currently)Pacific Northwest, USA
Expire: 2012-04-08
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| Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 12:53 am Post subject: |
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Kathmandu wrote:
| Pancolart wrote: |
I put photo into marketplace but here it is too:
Aperture is placed in the middle, where it should be. I used some LF or X-ray aperture i had (those that are replaceable and of different sizes),
it's thin alu and matte. I just needed to trim a bit the outer rim to fit. |
Thanks for sharing- very nice idea /worksmanship.
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kathmandu
Sony α 700 DSLR
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nixland
Joined: 30 Jan 2011
Posts: 577
Expire: 2012-07-29
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| Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 10:44 am Post subject: |
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nixland wrote:
Very cool shots Pancolart!
By the way I dont have experience on opening lenses & no knowledge about lens design, so how did you disassemble or open the lens. The rear or front part?
Sorry for naive newbie question
I am thinking of inserting the aperture made from film that resemble the Sony STF 135/2.8 with Gaussian bokeh
_________________
Carl Zeiss Jena: Biotar 58/2 1Q, DDR Pancolar 80/1.8 MC, Biotar 75/1.5, Biotar 10cm/2, DDR Sonnar 135/3.5 MC
Carl Zeiss C/Y: Planar 50/1.4 T*, Planar 85/1.4 T*, Planar 100/2 T*, Sonnar 135/2.8 T*
Leica: Summicron-R 35/2 v1, Summicron-R 50/2, Summilux-R 80/1.4, Summicron-R 90/2
Pentax: A 50/1.2
Minolta: Rokkor MC 58/1.2, Rokkor MC 85/1.7, Rokkor MC 100/2, MD 200/2.8
Olympus: Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2, Zuiko 50/1.2, Zuiko MC Auto-T 85/2, Zuiko Auto-T 100/2
Nikon: Nikkor 28/2.8 Ais, Nikkor 85/1.8, Nikkor 105/1.8, 300/2.8 ED (Ais)
Canon: FD 50/1.2 L, FD 85/1.2 L
Sony: 135/2.8 STF
Jupiter: 85/2 Alu
Cyclop: 85/1.5
Meyer-Optic: Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5
Samyang: 8/3.5 FE, 14/2.8, 85/1.4, 85/1.4 UMC
FOR SALE
Carl Zeiss Jena Biotar 10cm/2 || Carl Zeiss ZE Distagon 28/2 || Minolta Rokkor MD 35/1.8 || Rokkor-X MC 85/1.7 || Rokkor MD 85/1.7 || Olympus Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2 || Olympus 100/2 || Nikon Nikkor 35/1.4 || Canon: FD 55/1.2 || Vivitar 90/2.5 Series 1 VMC || Tamron: 90/2.5 SP
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Fabian
Joined: 04 Dec 2011
Posts: 254
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| Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 11:52 am Post subject: |
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Fabian wrote:
| nixland wrote: |
By the way I dont have experience on opening lenses & no knowledge about lens design, so how did you disassemble or open the lens. The rear or front part?
Sorry for naive newbie question
I am thinking of inserting the aperture made from film that resemble the Sony STF 135/2.8 with Gaussian bokeh |
| ForenSeil wrote: |
Here I made a little tutorial how to disassamble the Cyclop 85mm F1.5 to get to the rear element.
It's the easiest lens I've ever opened very "russian-style" (easy but nearly indestructible construction)
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Check previous page, all explained over there. |
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nixland
Joined: 30 Jan 2011
Posts: 577
Expire: 2012-07-29
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| Posted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 3:50 pm Post subject: |
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nixland wrote:
Sorry, I mean to open the front part. I already try to open the rear but Pancolart said he put the aperture on the middle. I thought maybe he put it from the front.
_________________
Carl Zeiss Jena: Biotar 58/2 1Q, DDR Pancolar 80/1.8 MC, Biotar 75/1.5, Biotar 10cm/2, DDR Sonnar 135/3.5 MC
Carl Zeiss C/Y: Planar 50/1.4 T*, Planar 85/1.4 T*, Planar 100/2 T*, Sonnar 135/2.8 T*
Leica: Summicron-R 35/2 v1, Summicron-R 50/2, Summilux-R 80/1.4, Summicron-R 90/2
Pentax: A 50/1.2
Minolta: Rokkor MC 58/1.2, Rokkor MC 85/1.7, Rokkor MC 100/2, MD 200/2.8
Olympus: Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2, Zuiko 50/1.2, Zuiko MC Auto-T 85/2, Zuiko Auto-T 100/2
Nikon: Nikkor 28/2.8 Ais, Nikkor 85/1.8, Nikkor 105/1.8, 300/2.8 ED (Ais)
Canon: FD 50/1.2 L, FD 85/1.2 L
Sony: 135/2.8 STF
Jupiter: 85/2 Alu
Cyclop: 85/1.5
Meyer-Optic: Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5
Samyang: 8/3.5 FE, 14/2.8, 85/1.4, 85/1.4 UMC
FOR SALE
Carl Zeiss Jena Biotar 10cm/2 || Carl Zeiss ZE Distagon 28/2 || Minolta Rokkor MD 35/1.8 || Rokkor-X MC 85/1.7 || Rokkor MD 85/1.7 || Olympus Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2 || Olympus 100/2 || Nikon Nikkor 35/1.4 || Canon: FD 55/1.2 || Vivitar 90/2.5 Series 1 VMC || Tamron: 90/2.5 SP
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