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My first C-41 processing
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 1:46 am    Post subject: My first C-41 processing Reply with quote

Here's some results from my first C-41 home processing (using Tetenal C-41 kit):

#1 my home


#2 my home


#3


#4 this monument to the alpine soldiers was made by my father


#5


#6


#7


#8


#9


#10


#11


#12


#13


#14


I think that the results are more than decent, considering that this was my very first try, and that both the films and the chemicals
were long time expired. Rolling Eyes
These were my steps, in case someone is interested:

1- pre-soak of two minutes in demineralized water, at the working temperature (38°C)
The purpose was to warm up the film and tank so that the temperature difference would not lower the developer temperature

2- developer bath for 3'15'' at working temperature (38°)

3- stop bath for 30'', using an acidic solution at working temperature (38°)
the purpose was to keep the bleach/fix bath as free as possible from developer contamination

4- bleach-fix bath for 4' at working temperature (38°)

5- washing with demineralized water for 3 minutes, changing water every 20 inversions. Water at working temperature (38°)

6- stabilizer bath for 1' at approximately 25°C temperature

The negatives came out with a rather visible magenta cast on them, which obviously turned to a greenish cast after scanning.
After some research on the net for the possible reason of the green cast, I determined it was because of overheat.
In fact, being afraid that the room temperature (quite low, at approx 18°C) could lower the chemicals temperature during the operations,
I did set the bath temperatures slightly higher than recommended, at 38,2° to 38,4° C, expecting this slightly higher value to make up for the expected cooling of the solutions.
Big mistake: the solutions evidently did not get cooler, and the higher chemicals temperature altered the reaction to the dye couplers.
Yes, quite obviously a simple difference of a third of a Celsius degree is enough to cause this type of cast - unless it was the fault of the expired chemicals, which I have no way to verify soon.
The colour cast was easy to remove in PP in some pictures, and nastier in others; hence the sort of mixed results with colours that you can see.
Everything considered, I would call it a positive experience. Next time I'll make sure to stay as closest as possible to the instructions values, and not be influenced by external factors.
The pre-soak and the stop bath steps were not in the basic steps instructions of the Tetenal manual. They were, however, mentioned somewhere in the text, and I thought it was useful to implement them.
I think that this first test proved it right: pre-soak and stop bath both helped.

P.S. Contax RX camera with 2-3 different lenses (can't remember...) Embarassed, Ferraniacolor 200 film.


PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks as a good succes!
Nice pics and good colors.


PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 11:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

look great, colors are good !


PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very good for first attempt...........for me as the supermarkets do a great job for 35mm at a cheap price, I would only return to DIY C41 processing if I can't find a convenient place who would do 120 as I really want to use medium format again.


PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 11:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have no idea what's C-41 processing but the colors are indeed great and I love your home Very Happy ....


PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 1:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks, C-41 is the code name for standard colour negative process. Smile
(E-6 is for standard slide process)


PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 10:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great success and great images too! Congrats!!


PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 11:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They look great! I'd love if you'd continue to process c-41 on your own. It would be wonderful to compare notes a few rolls down the road.


PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 12:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I surely plan to continue. Now I have understood that I need to be VERY VERY VERY restrictive about temperature changes,
which seem much more influential on results than developing times.


PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 3:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good job Orio! Maybe the magenta/green cast was due to expired film?


PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 4:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Congratulations Orio! Wow, you have great results here imho.


PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 10:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kram wrote:
Good job Orio! Maybe the magenta/green cast was due to expired film?


+1 Nice house (and photos) Orio!


PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 11:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very good results , Orio !
Congratulations !
I hope I'll be able to do it myself some day too .


PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 11:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very good results Orio, well done. You've made me think about trying it for myself.

About the temperature control, do you think a fish tank heater and thermostat might be useful?


PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 2:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank guys
@ Peter: I have a CPE2 Plus developing tank, which so far I used only for warming up B&W baths. In this case I also used the rotational mechanism.
I don't think I would have been able to obtain such acceptable results without this tank to control the temperature.
The overheat problem was the consequence of my wrong choice only. Next time I'll follow the indications strictly.


PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 11:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Orio wrote:
Thank guys
@ Peter: I have a CPE2 Plus developing tank, which so far I used only for warming up B&W baths. In this case I also used the rotational mechanism.
I don't think I would have been able to obtain such acceptable results without this tank to control the temperature.
The overheat problem was the consequence of my wrong choice only. Next time I'll follow the indications strictly.

I meant for me. For B&W I keep the temperature as consistent as I can by floating the bottles of chemicals in a large sink of warmed water and using that water for the mix too. But the higher temperature for C41 would lose heat faster, so instead of topping up with a little hot water (which is difficult to do with accuracy), I was wondering if a fish tank heater and thermostat might be helpful.


PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 11:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah, now I understand. I don't know... I am not familiar with fish tanks, sorry.


PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 11:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

peterqd wrote:
Orio wrote:
Thank guys
@ Peter: I have a CPE2 Plus developing tank, which so far I used only for warming up B&W baths. In this case I also used the rotational mechanism.
I don't think I would have been able to obtain such acceptable results without this tank to control the temperature.
The overheat problem was the consequence of my wrong choice only. Next time I'll follow the indications strictly.

I meant for me. For B&W I keep the temperature as consistent as I can by floating the bottles of chemicals in a large sink of warmed water and using that water for the mix too. But the higher temperature for C41 would lose heat faster, so instead of topping up with a little hot water (which is difficult to do with accuracy), I was wondering if a fish tank heater and thermostat might be helpful.


I did check it out fish tank heaters before bought JOBO , none of them keep temperature at 38 that is too much for fishes, either you need to make a DIY one or have to modify a factory made one to allow higher temperature.