Has anyone changed the focusing screen of a 400D/XTi?

SkedAddled · Expire: 2021-08-12

I have no qualms about making the change myself, since I'm rather adept with tools and delicate operations.

But what I'd like to ask about, is whether the less-expensive Asian-made screens are of any worth?

I am expecting a Vivitar 70-210mm lens in the mail tomorrow, but I lost out on the FD-to-EOS adapter with glass for it, so I might just clean the lens and resell it.

If I find that manual focusing does not live up to my 400D focusing screen, what would you good people recommend? I simply cannot justify the cost of a Katz Eye, so please do not recommend.

I'm talking about the US $20-30 dollar offerings from ebay sellers.

rick_oleson · Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 11:12 pm Post subject:

I have installed a $35 Virtual Village screen in my XTi, and it's very satisfactory.

Now.

However, it took some adjusting to get it right: the focal plane location is VERY critical, and the machining was off by something like .004" on my screen (I'm not sure that this isn't a selective-fit part in production anyway, since there is a removable shim between the screen and the chassis). After checking it, I corrected the focus by applying (as I recall) 2 layers of Scotch Magic Tape to the brass shim to increase its thickness. The procedure involved installing, testing, removing, shimming, reinstalling, retesting, etc, etc, etc until it was correct. By the time I got it done the screen had been in and out of the camera several times and I had managed to put a small scuff mark on it. That's not a functional issue, of course, and it works great so I'm fine with it.... I've managed to make the camera look like it has some miles on it in other areas too.

Once you get it in and get it right, I would leave it alone - the screen is not really designed to be user interchangeable, it's not very difficult but it's certainly not convenient, and the screen of course is very small if you're used to 35mm.

Personally, I think it's the right way to go: I've tried AF confirming adapters and eyepiece magnifiers, but this is the one that works. For me anyway.

I'm not sure I think you're on the right track with the glassed adapter and FD lens, though: I think you'll find that the glass in the adapter degrades your image quality significantly in addition to increasing the "crop factor" effect. I would advise instead getting an adapter for Nikon, Olympus or M42 (these are glassless) and getting some lenses in the corresponding mount instead of the FD. Just my 2 cents.....

SkedAddled · Expire: 2021-08-12

Thanks for the info, Rick.

As it turns out, the lens arrived as a K-mart Focal brand, at a fixed 135mm focal length, packaged in a Vivitar box. So, I'm not concerned about having lost out on the FD adapter. The seller's making good on a return/refund, or at least going through the motions.

I've read about the shims being needed in some cases, so if it comes to that, I'll just have to see what works.

At any rate, I plan to reserve judgment until after using MF lenses. If I manage to focus just fine right away, I don't see the need to spend more on a screen.

Thanks again.

rick_oleson · Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 2:30 am Post subject:

The split-image thing in the center of the manual focus screen is not a critical need.... the more important thing is the optical design of the matte focusing surface of the screen. The standard screen in the XTi (and probably all other AF cameras) is blind to shallow DOF of lenses faster than about f/4 or f/2.8, so you get random focusing errors if you focus manually at large apertures. With a zoom, the lens is slow enough that the standard screen should work fine for manual focus. If you don't plan to get faster lenses than f/2.8 I would probably keep the stock screen in the camera.

peterqd · Expire: 2014-01-04

I changed my 400D screen for the VV one too and I like it much better for MF than the standard screen. It's quite quick and easy to change over but it's safer to put a little PVC tape on the ends of the tweezers to avoid scratching the screen, and also remember to note down the layout of the tabs and the top of the old screen before you remove it. It's easy to become confused about this. Also my screen didn't seat down properly in the recess the first time - most people seem to need several tries before getting it right.

Rick, I've been meaning to ask you this for ages. Correct focus on my camera is achieved when the top half of the split image is slightly offset to the right of the bottom half. I think this means it focusses slightly behind the subject when the split image is lined up. I'd like to correct this if possible, as I find the split image the easiest method of focussing with my eyesight. Should I remove the shim or add thickness to it with the magic tape?

fernanrl · Posted: Sat Oct 25, 2008 10:48 pm Post subject:

Hi all,

...and which one would you suggest for my 30D? I am determined to change it but I little advise from somone that may have done it...

Thanks,

Fer

rick_oleson · Posted: Sun Oct 26, 2008 12:05 am Post subject:

SkedAddled · Expire: 2021-08-12

Hey, that's great information, Rick, about the infinity focus indoors. Many thanks for sharing that out.

peterqd · Expire: 2014-01-04

Stan · Joined: 14 Aug 2008 Posts: 34 Location: Seattle, WA, USA

> I'm talking about the US $20-30 dollar offerings from ebay sellers.
I bought and installed one. It took several iterations to adjust it (scotch tape instead of paper works the best as it sticks to the metal shim) and I am perfectly happy with the results.

rick_oleson · Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 11:25 am Post subject:

That is exactly my experience. I was disappointed at first but found that the focus was just off by something like .005 inches. It took several iterations but I got it to where I can consistently outperform the AF system now. The screen is a bit dimmer than the original but it also focuses better, which is a trade I'm willing to make.

I don't know if this need for shimming to fit is a function of inexact machining on the cheap screens, which would go away had I bought a more expensive one, or if it's a function of the camera's design, in which case it might be necessary no matter what screen (including the original one) the camera has. The fact that there was a brass shim in there already makes me suspect the latter, but it seems like they should have been able to make the cameras consistent enough not to need to do that. Maybe the shim is cheaper in production than other means of adjustment.

shad309 · Joined: 08 Mar 2008 Posts: 453 Location: Illinois, USA

Here is my experience

http://forum.mflenses.com/haoda-fu-3rd-generation-focus-screen-review-t6133.html#50411

rick_oleson · Posted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 1:16 am Post subject:

Very good account, thank you! Not surprisingly, it appears that you do get what you pay for.

SkedAddled · Expire: 2021-08-12

Lots of good feedback here, and I thank everyone who has contributed. So far, I am managing rather well with the stock FS in my camera, though it's very cold & wintry here. The real acid test for me will be when warmer weather comes around, and I take my camera out more.

Many thanks again for the great feedback.

fernanrl · Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2009 10:44 am Post subject:

Hi,

I finally bought the Katz-eye one for my 30D. Marvellous. It really works and it is worth every single euro/dollar/penny.

Regards,
Fer

shad309 · Joined: 08 Mar 2008 Posts: 453 Location: Illinois, USA

SkedAddled,
If you feel that you want one. I have a Haoda Fu screen that I am no longer using for the XTI/400D. I sold mine when I upgraded to the 40D. Let me know if you are interested.