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cmontoya
Joined: 07 Dec 2009
Posts: 216
Location: Cebu City, Philippines
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 Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2010 12:06 pm Post subject: First BOKEH shots with a Helios 44-2 58mm f/2 |
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cmontoya wrote:
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I'm not sure if those dark spots are caused by dust from the old lens or from the sensor.
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Digital: Canon 450D
AF: Tamron 28-75 2.8
Film: Canonet 28, Canonet QL-17, Nikon FM2
MF: Nikkor 50mm 1.4 |
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NikonD
Joined: 29 Jul 2008
Posts: 1891
Location: Central Europe - NW Slovenija
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| Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2010 12:24 pm Post subject: |
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NikonD wrote:
wow, great photos!
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Roman
Nikon D750
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kuuan
Joined: 14 Jan 2008
Posts: 4578
Location: right now: Austria
Expire: 2014-12-26
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| Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2010 12:34 pm Post subject: Re: First BOKEH shots with a Helios 44-2 58mm f/2 |
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kuuan wrote:
| cmontoya wrote: |
I'm not sure if those dark spots are caused by dust from the old lens or from the sensor. |
nice samples...
I have been wondering the same on photos with the round open aperture highlights, and I do 'believe' that it shows dust inside the lens, that this even may be a good way to test if a lens has dust, but I really don't know if this is true
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martinsmith99
Joined: 31 Aug 2008
Posts: 6747
Location: S Glos, UK
Expire: 2013-11-18
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| Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2010 12:36 pm Post subject: |
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martinsmith99 wrote:
Great pics, but where are the swirlies?
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cmontoya
Joined: 07 Dec 2009
Posts: 216
Location: Cebu City, Philippines
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| Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2010 12:53 pm Post subject: |
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cmontoya wrote:
@NikonD: Thank you.
@kuuan: Thanks. I think it's dust inside the lens but I'll probably shoot with the lens cap on at f/22 to see.
@martin: Thank you too. I was trying to figure out how to get the swirlies. I think it only works if there are a lot of reflective surfaces (e.g., lighted leaves or flowers) behind the subject. I'll figure out how to get the swirlies sooner or later.
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Digital: Canon 450D
AF: Tamron 28-75 2.8
Film: Canonet 28, Canonet QL-17, Nikon FM2
MF: Nikkor 50mm 1.4 |
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DiegoV
Joined: 06 Feb 2010
Posts: 92
Location: Mira, Portugal
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| Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2010 2:51 pm Post subject: |
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DiegoV wrote:
Nice photos, cmontoya 
About the dark spots, I also think it might be dust inside the lens. Sensor dust generally doesn't appear at wide apertures. But I'm curious to know for sure. Post some photos at f/22 if you can |
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bbshooter
Joined: 13 Feb 2010
Posts: 49
Location: Pennsylvania, USA
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| Posted: Sun Feb 14, 2010 8:50 pm Post subject: |
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bbshooter wrote:
inspiring photographs! Love the bokeh,colors and composition.
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Canon t90, A1,AE1,Tlb w 20,28,28-85, 35-105,85 1.8, 135 2.0,135 2.5, 70-210, 100 macro, Digital rebel 300d,G3, rebel G, adaptall 300 2.8, 80-210 103A, 28-80 sp, 90 2.5 sp, Nikon D300,D200,D100,6006, w 80-200 2.8, sigma 15-30,Tamron 28-105 2.8, 85 2 ai, 85 1.8af,50 1.8 E, 50 1.8 af, 35 1.8 af-s, Vivitar ser 1 200 f3,tamron 28-200 xr, Sigma 70-300dl af
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eeyore_nl
Joined: 09 Nov 2008
Posts: 824
Location: Netherlands
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| Posted: Sun Feb 14, 2010 8:52 pm Post subject: |
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eeyore_nl wrote:
I like the first one!
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thomasb
Joined: 18 Jan 2010
Posts: 51
Location: Glasgow
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| Posted: Sun Feb 14, 2010 9:01 pm Post subject: |
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thomasb wrote:
nice..can't wait to try mine out.
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Paragon 500mm F;8, Helios 70-150mm F;3.8, Mirage 100-200 zoom F:5.6, Photax 28mm F:2.8. Sigma 100-200mm F;4.5 Macro. Helios 44-2 F2/58mm. Takumar 135mm f:3.5. |
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Esox lucius
Joined: 26 Aug 2008
Posts: 2527
Location: Helsinki, Finland
Expire: 2011-11-18
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| Posted: Sun Feb 14, 2010 10:09 pm Post subject: |
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Esox lucius wrote:
| cmontoya wrote: |
| @martin: Thank you too. I was trying to figure out how to get the swirlies. I think it only works if there are a lot of reflective surfaces (e.g., lighted leaves or flowers) behind the subject. I'll figure out how to get the swirlies sooner or later. |
You are using 1.6x crop frame camera so you get more depth of field. Narrow down depth of field by opening more up and getting in closer. If the the subjects behind depth of field are far away and smooth surfaces like your walls here you won't see swirly bokeh. Shoot wider open and place uneven backgrounds towards corners and edges for swirly bokeh
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mureena/3149743027/sizes/l/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mureena/3149743851/sizes/l/
Most of the time, I actually try to avoid creating it. I'm not a fan of 3 grouped lens bokeh, too restless for me. Quite easy to avoid it:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mureena/2833939156/sizes/l/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mureena/2834994307/sizes/l/
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Vilhelm
Nikon DSLR: D4, D800, Nikon D3, D70
Nikon SLR: Nikon F100, Nikon FM2n
Nikkor MF: 20/2.8 Ai-S, 24/2 Ai-S, 24/2.8 Ai-S, 28/2 Ai-S, 28/2.8 Ai-S, 35/1.4 AIS, 35/2 Ai-S, 45/2.8 GN, 50/1.2 Ai, 50/1.2 Ai-S, 50/1.4 Ai, 50/1.4 Ai-S, 50/1.8 AI-S "long", 50/1.8 AI-S "short", 55/1.2 Ai, 85/1.4 Ai-S, 85/1.8H, 105/2.5 Ai, 135/2.8Q, 135/3.5 Ai, 180/2.8 Ai-S ED
Nikkor AF/AF-S FX: 14-24/2.8G, 16/2.8D Fisheye, 16-35/4G VR, 17-35/2.8D, 24/1.4G, 24/3.5D PC-E, 24/2.8D, 24-70/2.8G, 28/1.4D, 28/1.8G, 35/1.4G, 35/2D, 50/1.4D, 50/1.4G, 50/1.8G, 60/2.8 Micro, 60/2.8G Micro, 70-200/2.8G VR, 70-200/2.8G VR II, 80-400/4.5-5.6D VR, 85/1.4G, 85/2.8D PC-E Micro, 105/2D DC, 105/2.8G VR Micro, 135/2D DC, 200/2G VR, 200-400/4G VR, 300/2.8G VR, 300/4D ED, 400/2.8G VR, 800/5.6E VR
Nikkor AF/AF-S DX: 10.5/2.8G Fisheye, 12-24/4G, 18-70/3.5-4.5G
Topcor: Auto-Topcor 58/1.4,
Voigtländer SL: 40/2 Ultron, 58/1.4 Nokton, 75/2.5 Color-Heliar, 90/3.5 APO-Lanthar, 125/2.5 APO-Lanthar, 180/4 APO-Lanthar
Zeiss ZF: Planar T* 85/1.4 ZF
M42 SLR: Voigtländer Bessaflex TM
M42: Flektogon 20/4, Flektogon 35/2.4, Tessar 50/2.8 T, Super-Takumar 55/1.8, Biotar 58/2 T, Pentacon 135/2.8, Sonnar 135/3.5
Medium format: several Zeiss Super Ikonta 532/16 Opton-Tessar 80mm f/2.8, Zeiss Ikonta 524/16 Opton-Tessar 75mm f/3.5
Leica: R7, M4, Super-Angulon-R 4/21, Elmarit-R 2.8/28, Summicron-R 2/35, Summicron-M 2/35, Summicron-M 2/50, Elmarit-R 2,8/180
Last edited by Esox lucius on Tue Feb 16, 2010 7:56 am; edited 1 time in total |
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cmontoya
Joined: 07 Dec 2009
Posts: 216
Location: Cebu City, Philippines
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| Posted: Sun Feb 14, 2010 10:53 pm Post subject: |
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cmontoya wrote:
@DiegoV, bbshooter, eeyore_nl, thomasb: Thank you
@Esox lucius: Thank you for the tip.
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Digital: Canon 450D
AF: Tamron 28-75 2.8
Film: Canonet 28, Canonet QL-17, Nikon FM2
MF: Nikkor 50mm 1.4 |
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shauttra
Joined: 17 Nov 2009
Posts: 782
Location: Latvia
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| Posted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 7:51 am Post subject: |
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shauttra wrote:
so clear pictures
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cmontoya
Joined: 07 Dec 2009
Posts: 216
Location: Cebu City, Philippines
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| Posted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 12:14 pm Post subject: |
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cmontoya wrote:
Thank you shauttra. The Helios 44-2 has a unique character from my SuperTaks. I like my SuperTaks for their realistic color rendition but when I want to do artsy photos, I'm starting to appreciate the Helios 44-2. I'm now hunting ebay for a Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon MC 35mm f2.
I also read that the Helios 44-2 is based on Carl Zeiss Biotar 58mm f/2 and that Carl Zeiss Biotar comes in 3 varieties: manual, pre-set, and semi-auto. I assume the manual is like SuperTak?
I wonder how I would know the difference when searching for it in ebay.
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Film: Canonet 28, Canonet QL-17, Nikon FM2
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pat donnelly
Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Posts: 669
Location: Brisbane, Australia
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| Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2010 5:56 am Post subject: Russki lenses |
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pat donnelly wrote:
There are different versions of your lens, as you say, all based on the biotar. The older ones had more iris leaves. I think up to 12, but perhaps someone has an older one?
They come in silver or black for the newer ones.
Great photos by the way! I think the dust is on your sensor?
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EP-1, E-410, E-300, D100, D1,
C-Mt: 25mm 1.9, 75mm 1.4, 75mm 1.3, 75mm 1.9, Ultra wides, one inch sensor, 20+ c-mount zooms
OM 350mm f2.8, Nikkor 180 f2.8, Exa 180 f2.8,
Tamrons: 90mm f2.5, 500mm f8 x3, 135 f2.5, 200 f3.5, 24mm 2.5, 28mm 2.5 x8,
FD 500mm mirror lens |
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cmontoya
Joined: 07 Dec 2009
Posts: 216
Location: Cebu City, Philippines
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| Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2010 12:17 pm Post subject: |
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cmontoya wrote:
@pat: Thank you. You may be right about the dust. My camera's a year old already. I'll probably have it cleaned next Saturday. It'd also be a good idea to have it cleaned on its purchase anniversary date.
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Digital: Canon 450D
AF: Tamron 28-75 2.8
Film: Canonet 28, Canonet QL-17, Nikon FM2
MF: Nikkor 50mm 1.4 |
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Esox lucius
Joined: 26 Aug 2008
Posts: 2527
Location: Helsinki, Finland
Expire: 2011-11-18
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| Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2010 9:08 pm Post subject: Re: Russki lenses |
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Esox lucius wrote:
Three lens element groups construction shapes bokeh more than diaphragm. Diaphragm dictates shape of out of focus highlights (bokeh balls or bokeh polygons), bokeh is mostly due to lens design.
| pat donnelly wrote: |
| There are different versions of your lens, as you say, all based on the biotar. The older ones had more iris leaves. I think up to 12, but perhaps someone has an older one? |
Pre-war design post-war manufactured has 15 blades. See this topic for more information: http://forum.mflenses.com/two-very-different-biotar-58-mm-f2-carl-zeiss-jena-t22298.html
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Vilhelm
Nikon DSLR: D4, D800, Nikon D3, D70
Nikon SLR: Nikon F100, Nikon FM2n
Nikkor MF: 20/2.8 Ai-S, 24/2 Ai-S, 24/2.8 Ai-S, 28/2 Ai-S, 28/2.8 Ai-S, 35/1.4 AIS, 35/2 Ai-S, 45/2.8 GN, 50/1.2 Ai, 50/1.2 Ai-S, 50/1.4 Ai, 50/1.4 Ai-S, 50/1.8 AI-S "long", 50/1.8 AI-S "short", 55/1.2 Ai, 85/1.4 Ai-S, 85/1.8H, 105/2.5 Ai, 135/2.8Q, 135/3.5 Ai, 180/2.8 Ai-S ED
Nikkor AF/AF-S FX: 14-24/2.8G, 16/2.8D Fisheye, 16-35/4G VR, 17-35/2.8D, 24/1.4G, 24/3.5D PC-E, 24/2.8D, 24-70/2.8G, 28/1.4D, 28/1.8G, 35/1.4G, 35/2D, 50/1.4D, 50/1.4G, 50/1.8G, 60/2.8 Micro, 60/2.8G Micro, 70-200/2.8G VR, 70-200/2.8G VR II, 80-400/4.5-5.6D VR, 85/1.4G, 85/2.8D PC-E Micro, 105/2D DC, 105/2.8G VR Micro, 135/2D DC, 200/2G VR, 200-400/4G VR, 300/2.8G VR, 300/4D ED, 400/2.8G VR, 800/5.6E VR
Nikkor AF/AF-S DX: 10.5/2.8G Fisheye, 12-24/4G, 18-70/3.5-4.5G
Topcor: Auto-Topcor 58/1.4,
Voigtländer SL: 40/2 Ultron, 58/1.4 Nokton, 75/2.5 Color-Heliar, 90/3.5 APO-Lanthar, 125/2.5 APO-Lanthar, 180/4 APO-Lanthar
Zeiss ZF: Planar T* 85/1.4 ZF
M42 SLR: Voigtländer Bessaflex TM
M42: Flektogon 20/4, Flektogon 35/2.4, Tessar 50/2.8 T, Super-Takumar 55/1.8, Biotar 58/2 T, Pentacon 135/2.8, Sonnar 135/3.5
Medium format: several Zeiss Super Ikonta 532/16 Opton-Tessar 80mm f/2.8, Zeiss Ikonta 524/16 Opton-Tessar 75mm f/3.5
Leica: R7, M4, Super-Angulon-R 4/21, Elmarit-R 2.8/28, Summicron-R 2/35, Summicron-M 2/35, Summicron-M 2/50, Elmarit-R 2,8/180
Last edited by Esox lucius on Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:36 am; edited 2 times in total |
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RenseH
Joined: 13 Jun 2009
Posts: 571
Location: Zetten - The Netherlands
Expire: 2013-01-14
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| Posted: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:11 am Post subject: |
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RenseH wrote:
Great pics, I like the 'Christmas Tree Bokeh', have to try this with my Helios-44M too...
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Rense
My Blog - My Website - My PPG |
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Bob
Joined: 15 Mar 2007
Posts: 675
Location: Wentzville, Mo.
Expire: 2011-12-08
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| Posted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 3:52 am Post subject: |
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Bob wrote:
Nice series. This is an under rated lens.
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Bob
"In terms of addiction, there is nothing more powerful than men's toys."
Sammy Davis Jr. |
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cmontoya
Joined: 07 Dec 2009
Posts: 216
Location: Cebu City, Philippines
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| Posted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 12:13 pm Post subject: |
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cmontoya wrote:
@Bob: Thank you. Yes it is but I found its weakness today. Flare 
I'll share the link to my flickr gallery where I uploaded photos of cosplayers (people in costumes) taken with it in another thread. I tested myself, that is, how well I can manually focus on moving people.
_________________
Digital: Canon 450D
AF: Tamron 28-75 2.8
Film: Canonet 28, Canonet QL-17, Nikon FM2
MF: Nikkor 50mm 1.4 |
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