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Cleanable lenses from fungus
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 8:40 pm    Post subject: Cleanable lenses from fungus Reply with quote

I wish to collect that lenses what is cleanable from fungus, mold,haze etc.


PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 8:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

All genuine Carl Zeiss Jena lenses are cleanable.
All Meyer-Optik Goerlitz lenses.
All Pentacon lenses.
All Russian lenses are cleanable,before the latest ones.

Kaleinar 2.8/100. non cleanable.


Last edited by Attila on Tue Jul 08, 2008 9:22 pm; edited 1 time in total


PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Attila wrote:
All Russian lenses are cleanable.


Ahhmmm.... I was not able to get between the two front elements of the Kaleinar 2.8/100. I guess they are glued together.


PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 10:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

At the risk of saying something completely wrong... I THINK that more or less most modern lenses have at their inside at least one couple of cemented glasses.
So although the number of uncemented glasses is higher, and therefore also is the percentage of single-glasses that are attacked by fungus, I think that a risk exists, like I said, in most modern lenses that are a bit more complex than simple triplets.


PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 5:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

@ Attila:

Regarding cleaning Meyer lenses - the internal coating is very easily damaged especially if you use Eclipse fluid.

I found out the hard way.... Sad


PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 7:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I never care about coating, lenses are fine without that. I have many superb not coated lenses.


PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Agree on the latter, however it might affect the resale value a bit because depending on how bad it is damaged, you can see the marks when looking through the lens.


PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 8:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I never sold cleaned lens they are my kids I saved them Smile


PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 9:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I save them too - I love looking at them as much as through them.... Laughing


PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sigma Zoom 35-200mm f: 4~5.6 definitely NOT.

I took one apart to practice my lens cleaning skills and found that ALL elements grew fungus. There was a cemented element that had both fungus AND haze from the cement they used.

Minolta MC Rokkor-PG 50mm f:1.4

All elements can be cleaned except for the one closest to the camera, it's a thin piece with the lattice of fungus etched on it. After cleaning, it was a little better, but at certain angles you can still see it.

Minolta MD Rokkor 28mm f:3.5

I was lucky to be able to clean this lens for use on my m4/3 Smile First success Smile


PostPosted: Fri Jul 02, 2010 2:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i ve jena ddr 135/3.5 with ring focus like a sand inside when its move how to fix it...?
what kind of tools sould has if i want to clean the lens or inside tube of lens...

can explain to newbi like me

thanks,


PostPosted: Fri Jul 02, 2010 4:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Perhaps this will help ...

http://www.aprd31.dsl.pipex.com/articles/czj135svc/


PostPosted: Mon Sep 20, 2010 11:09 am    Post subject: Novoflex 60/4.0, Porst 135/1.8, Canon EF 50/1.8, FD 300/2.8L Reply with quote

I got a cheap camera bag with a Novoflex 60 mm f/4.0 macro lens head in it - and a fitting M42 Novoflex bellows.
There was fungus inside and on the outer lens too.
The iris was stuck.
As I opend it I saw the aperture blades and soeme parts of the mechanic are heavy corroded. But that was cleanable good enough to work. And the fungus was cleanable without marks.

On the heavy Porst 135mm f/1.8 I had fungus on the last lens inside. It was cleanable, I think with very thin fungus-scratchings.

A Canon FD 300/2.8L with fungus inside was cleanable - but the fungus scratched the lens :-/

On a Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 old version I, I had fungus - but only on the front lens. The cleaning was no problem.


PostPosted: Thu Feb 10, 2011 8:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello to everyone,
I'm mflenses reader for quite some time, and I decided to register recently.

As for the cleaning the lenses -
so far I cleaned some Pentax ones, like:
M 50/1:2
M 50/1:1,7
A 50/1:2
M 135/1:3,5

they are quite simple to disassemble and reassemble, and only 1:1.7 have elements in groups.
I did successfully repaired Pentax F 35-80/1:4-5.6 zoom, although if was tricky one...

Anyway - can you recommend any good and affordable spanner wrench?
( my antique caliper is not most comfortable tool )
I have some Pentax K 50 1:1,4 to be unfungused Smile

Regards


PostPosted: Thu Feb 10, 2011 10:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi and welcome to the forum.. Very Happy
have you read this thread yet?
http://forum.mflenses.com/basic-techniques-to-repair-lenses-and-cameras-t32862.html
Attila I think also sells lens spanners. Very Happy


PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2011 8:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sears 50mm, only the outer surfaces of the outer elements can be cleaned. The inner surfaces are cemented in place and the case is a single piece of plastic. To remove the elements would require destroying the plastic case or dissolving the cement with some unsavory chemicals.

But the big questions is, it's an all-plastic Sears lens, so who really cares?


PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nikkor-S 50mm f1.4 Non-AI
Pancolar 55mm f1.4 M42
Carl Zeiss Jena Triotar 135
All are good logical constructions.


PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 4:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rodenstock Apo Rodagon 50/2.8 - not yet ready - many fungus infected surfaces, but simple work:
http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/glaspilz-apo-rodagon-50.html

Vivitar 24/2.8 - one lens was etched, but others ok:
http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/glaspilz_reinigung.html


PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2011 9:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Zeiss Jena Epiotar 210 /4.5: Bought lens with heavy fungus and scratches.
Was easily to clean - what I didnt expected.


PostPosted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 12:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Minolta Rokkor 2/45.

Very simple to remove front and rear optical blocks. Lots of fungus on outer surfaces of both blocks (which are each in one piece, not possible to disassemble) but after 5mins soaking in ISO then rub with soft cloth, it came off. Visible damage from fungus around very edge of front element, but otherwise pretty clean.

Will test how well cleaning worked when the rain stops...


PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2012 5:11 am    Post subject: Summmicron-R needs fungus cleaning Reply with quote

Well, at this point i'm again in hope to recover from light infestation of fungus a Summicron-R 50/f2 i bought some months ago.
Today i cleaned up - with a great success - a Pentacon 50mm 1.8 with some coating marks, and now it's like new - i guess.
I will appreciate any help with this cleaning job with the Leica; i'm thinking myself a very miserably donkey 'cause i payed for the "best specialist in the country in german lenses maintenance" and the Summi came back as it's gone!
The lens performs incredible well, even with this fungus - but, as my intention is to live a lot more, it would be a great idea if we can share a time taking some photos in the next - say - 30 or 40 next years!

If this job is a kind of "to advanced maintenance staff", well, i will maybe send it to Attila if he feels comfortable with this endeavour,

Thanks,

Renato


PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2012 9:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been able of successfully clean some Tamron adaptall, Samyang 500mm mirror, Domiplan (is not worth to spend time with them if not for practising), Minolta MD 50mm 1.7, Pentax-M 50mm 1.7, Sigma 70-210 M42, Helios-44 (several suffixes), some Hexanons, and some enlarger lenses.

Jes.


PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2012 3:34 am    Post subject: New render Pentacon 1.8 50mm Reply with quote

Jesito,

What do you think about a clean-up of the Summicron-R 50mm? Did you ever tried out anything like that before?


Well, dunno if it's allowed to post images of lens clinic's results here, but here we go:

Pentacon 50 1.8mm M42 after a dismantling and optics cleaning:


_MG_3974_web por Renato A Q Salles, no Flickr

It shines again! If i remember well, some months ago i bought this lens for 19.95 from a ebay seller. Came with both caps and a black plastic lens box. I like it's colors. This photo saw PS only for sRGB conversion and resizing.

Renato


PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2012 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cleaning fungus is always a bit gambling. Some can be perfectly removed others leaving haze.
If you could get a very cheap Summicron etc. with a little fungus I would try it.


PostPosted: Mon Dec 23, 2013 7:51 am    Post subject: Front cluster on OM 1.4/50mm Reply with quote

I have managed to open the front cluster on a couple of OM 50mm f1.4 version 5 lenses. I had nothing to lose as these were bad so:

Essentially this unit screws together from the front. There is a lot of friction and I couldnt shift the front element even with the use of a big rubber block. There are no cemented elements, the inner elements are secured with a screw ring.

With nothing to lose I figured Id go back to basics and used three heat cycles to break down the friction. I put the front cluster in and out of the oven three times at 190c for 5 minutes on 5 minutes off.

This loosened the front element which unscrewed with use of a pencil end eraser to apply force to the outer rim.

Inside is another element, this is secured in place by a screw in ring. This is very tight, but with gentle, persistent pressure can be released. A rubber band on the end of a finger works well.

The moisture and fungus in my copy was behind this element which in one case came away completely cleanly, and in another left some minor coating marks. There appeared to be no adverse affect from the heat on the coatings.

Re-assemble by reversing the above. The elements should not rattle within the front assembly, but the rings need not be overtightened.

It is very hard to avoid getting dust in between the elements at re-assembly, so probably only worth opening a lens up like this if the dust/fungus/moisture is serious.