View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
|
Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 8:40 pm Post subject: Cleanable lenses from fungus |
|
|
Attila wrote:
I wish to collect that lenses what is cleanable from fungus, mold,haze etc. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
|
Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 8:46 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Attila wrote:
All genuine Carl Zeiss Jena lenses are cleanable.
All Meyer-Optik Goerlitz lenses.
All Pentacon lenses.
All Russian lenses are cleanable,before the latest ones.
Kaleinar 2.8/100. non cleanable. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
Last edited by Attila on Tue Jul 08, 2008 9:22 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
Back to top |
|
|
LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
|
Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 9:05 pm Post subject: |
|
|
LucisPictor wrote:
Attila wrote: |
All Russian lenses are cleanable. |
Ahhmmm.... I was not able to get between the two front elements of the Kaleinar 2.8/100. I guess they are glued together. _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
|
Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 10:27 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Orio wrote:
At the risk of saying something completely wrong... I THINK that more or less most modern lenses have at their inside at least one couple of cemented glasses.
So although the number of uncemented glasses is higher, and therefore also is the percentage of single-glasses that are attacked by fungus, I think that a risk exists, like I said, in most modern lenses that are a bit more complex than simple triplets. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
|
Back to top |
|
|
bob955i
Joined: 15 Apr 2007 Posts: 2495
|
Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 5:30 pm Post subject: |
|
|
bob955i wrote:
@ Attila:
Regarding cleaning Meyer lenses - the internal coating is very easily damaged especially if you use Eclipse fluid.
I found out the hard way.... |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
|
Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 7:24 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Attila wrote:
I never care about coating, lenses are fine without that. I have many superb not coated lenses. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
bob955i
Joined: 15 Apr 2007 Posts: 2495
|
Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 8:49 pm Post subject: |
|
|
bob955i wrote:
Agree on the latter, however it might affect the resale value a bit because depending on how bad it is damaged, you can see the marks when looking through the lens. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
|
Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 8:59 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Attila wrote:
I never sold cleaned lens they are my kids I saved them _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
bob955i
Joined: 15 Apr 2007 Posts: 2495
|
Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 9:06 pm Post subject: |
|
|
bob955i wrote:
I save them too - I love looking at them as much as through them.... |
|
Back to top |
|
|
wilson.c
Joined: 18 Jan 2010 Posts: 364 Location: Hong Kong
|
Posted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 10:09 am Post subject: |
|
|
wilson.c wrote:
Sigma Zoom 35-200mm f: 4~5.6 definitely NOT.
I took one apart to practice my lens cleaning skills and found that ALL elements grew fungus. There was a cemented element that had both fungus AND haze from the cement they used.
Minolta MC Rokkor-PG 50mm f:1.4
All elements can be cleaned except for the one closest to the camera, it's a thin piece with the lattice of fungus etched on it. After cleaning, it was a little better, but at certain angles you can still see it.
Minolta MD Rokkor 28mm f:3.5
I was lucky to be able to clean this lens for use on my m4/3 First success _________________ Wilson
DSLR: Canon 5DMkII, 500D + Panasonic GF-1
SLR: Canon T90, Canon F1, Canon A1, Canon AE1 + Rolleiflex SL66 + Bronica ETRs
R'finder: Contax G1, G2 + Leica M6, M3 + Contax II
Lenses
M42: Angenieaux 90/1.8
Canon: FD 50/3.5 Macro, FD 80/1.8, FD 80-200L/4
Contax G: CZ Hologon 16/8, CZ Biogon 21/2.8, CZ Biogon 28/2.8, CZ Planar 45/2.0, CZ Sonnar 90/2.8
P-Six: CZJ Sonnar 180/2.8, CZJ Biometar 120/2.8
Contax: Distagon 28/2.8, Distagon 28/2, Planar 85/1.4, Makro-Planar 100/2.8
Others: CZ Sonnar 135/3.5 (Hasselblad V mount)
More little ones to be documented.
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
wirsha
Joined: 30 Jun 2010 Posts: 9 Location: jakarta
|
Posted: Fri Jul 02, 2010 2:15 pm Post subject: |
|
|
wirsha wrote:
i ve jena ddr 135/3.5 with ring focus like a sand inside when its move how to fix it...?
what kind of tools sould has if i want to clean the lens or inside tube of lens...
can explain to newbi like me
thanks, _________________ CZ 135/3.5
Eos 1000D |
|
Back to top |
|
|
sichko
Joined: 20 Jun 2008 Posts: 2475 Location: South West UK
|
Posted: Fri Jul 02, 2010 4:36 pm Post subject: |
|
|
sichko wrote:
Perhaps this will help ...
http://www.aprd31.dsl.pipex.com/articles/czj135svc/ _________________ John |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ZoneV
Joined: 09 Nov 2009 Posts: 1632 Location: Germany
Expire: 2011-12-02
|
Posted: Mon Sep 20, 2010 11:09 am Post subject: Novoflex 60/4.0, Porst 135/1.8, Canon EF 50/1.8, FD 300/2.8L |
|
|
ZoneV wrote:
I got a cheap camera bag with a Novoflex 60 mm f/4.0 macro lens head in it - and a fitting M42 Novoflex bellows.
There was fungus inside and on the outer lens too.
The iris was stuck.
As I opend it I saw the aperture blades and soeme parts of the mechanic are heavy corroded. But that was cleanable good enough to work. And the fungus was cleanable without marks.
On the heavy Porst 135mm f/1.8 I had fungus on the last lens inside. It was cleanable, I think with very thin fungus-scratchings.
A Canon FD 300/2.8L with fungus inside was cleanable - but the fungus scratched the lens :-/
On a Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 old version I, I had fungus - but only on the front lens. The cleaning was no problem. _________________ Camera modification, repair and DIY - some links to look through: http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/index-en.html
I AM A LENS NERD!
Epis, Elmaron, Emerald, Ernostar, Helioplan and Heidosmat.
Epiotar, Kameraobjektiv, Anastigmat, Epis, Meganast, Magnagon, Quinar, Culmigon, Novotrinast, Novflexar, Colorplan, Sekor, Kinon, Talon, Telemegor, Xenon, Xenar, Ultra, Ultra Star. Tessar, Janar, Visionar, Kiptar, Kipronar and Rotelar.
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Cypis
Joined: 07 Feb 2011 Posts: 1 Location: Gdansk
|
Posted: Thu Feb 10, 2011 8:55 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Cypis wrote:
Hello to everyone,
I'm mflenses reader for quite some time, and I decided to register recently.
As for the cleaning the lenses -
so far I cleaned some Pentax ones, like:
M 50/1:2
M 50/1:1,7
A 50/1:2
M 135/1:3,5
they are quite simple to disassemble and reassemble, and only 1:1.7 have elements in groups.
I did successfully repaired Pentax F 35-80/1:4-5.6 zoom, although if was tricky one...
Anyway - can you recommend any good and affordable spanner wrench?
( my antique caliper is not most comfortable tool )
I have some Pentax K 50 1:1,4 to be unfungused
Regards _________________ --
Cypis |
|
Back to top |
|
|
mo
Joined: 27 Aug 2009 Posts: 8979 Location: Australia
Expire: 2016-07-30
|
Posted: Thu Feb 10, 2011 10:40 pm Post subject: |
|
|
mo wrote:
Hi and welcome to the forum..
have you read this thread yet?
http://forum.mflenses.com/basic-techniques-to-repair-lenses-and-cameras-t32862.html
Attila I think also sells lens spanners. _________________ Moira, Moderator
Fuji XE-1,Pentax K-01,Panasonic G1,Panasonic G5,Pentax MX
Ricoh Singlex TLS,KR-5,KR-5Super,XR-10
Lenses
Auto Rikenon's 55/1.4, 1.8, 2.8... 50/1.7 Takumar 2/58 Preset Takumar 2.8/105 Auto Takumar 2.2/55, 3.5/35 Super Takumar 1.8/55...Macro Takumar F4/50... CZJ Biotar ALU M42 2/58 CZJ Tessar ALU M42 2.8/50
CZJ DDR Flektogon Zebra M42 2.8/35 CZJ Pancolar M42 2/50 CZJ Pancolar Exakta 2/50
Auto Mamiya/Sekor 1.8/55 ...Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2.8/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 200/3.5 Tamron SP500/8 Tamron SP350/5.6 Tamron SP90/2.5
Primoplan 1.9/58 Primagon 4.5/35 Telemegor 5.5/150 Angenieux 3.5/28 Angenieux 3,5/135 Y 2
Canon FL 58/1.2,Canon FL85/1.8,Canon FL 100/3.5,Canon SSC 2.8/100 ,Konica AR 100/2.8, Nikkor P 105/2.5
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
David
Joined: 13 Apr 2011 Posts: 1869 Location: Denver, Colorado
Expire: 2013-01-25
|
Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2011 8:19 pm Post subject: |
|
|
David wrote:
Sears 50mm, only the outer surfaces of the outer elements can be cleaned. The inner surfaces are cemented in place and the case is a single piece of plastic. To remove the elements would require destroying the plastic case or dissolving the cement with some unsavory chemicals.
But the big questions is, it's an all-plastic Sears lens, so who really cares? _________________ http://www.youtube.com/user/hancockDavidM |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
|
Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 3:08 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Attila wrote:
Nikkor-S 50mm f1.4 Non-AI
Pancolar 55mm f1.4 M42
Carl Zeiss Jena Triotar 135
All are good logical constructions. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
ZoneV
Joined: 09 Nov 2009 Posts: 1632 Location: Germany
Expire: 2011-12-02
|
Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 4:34 pm Post subject: |
|
|
ZoneV wrote:
Rodenstock Apo Rodagon 50/2.8 - not yet ready - many fungus infected surfaces, but simple work:
http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/glaspilz-apo-rodagon-50.html
Vivitar 24/2.8 - one lens was etched, but others ok:
http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/glaspilz_reinigung.html _________________ Camera modification, repair and DIY - some links to look through: http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/index-en.html
I AM A LENS NERD!
Epis, Elmaron, Emerald, Ernostar, Helioplan and Heidosmat.
Epiotar, Kameraobjektiv, Anastigmat, Epis, Meganast, Magnagon, Quinar, Culmigon, Novotrinast, Novflexar, Colorplan, Sekor, Kinon, Talon, Telemegor, Xenon, Xenar, Ultra, Ultra Star. Tessar, Janar, Visionar, Kiptar, Kipronar and Rotelar.
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
ZoneV
Joined: 09 Nov 2009 Posts: 1632 Location: Germany
Expire: 2011-12-02
|
Posted: Mon Aug 01, 2011 9:58 pm Post subject: |
|
|
ZoneV wrote:
Zeiss Jena Epiotar 210 /4.5: Bought lens with heavy fungus and scratches.
Was easily to clean - what I didn´t expected. _________________ Camera modification, repair and DIY - some links to look through: http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/index-en.html
I AM A LENS NERD!
Epis, Elmaron, Emerald, Ernostar, Helioplan and Heidosmat.
Epiotar, Kameraobjektiv, Anastigmat, Epis, Meganast, Magnagon, Quinar, Culmigon, Novotrinast, Novflexar, Colorplan, Sekor, Kinon, Talon, Telemegor, Xenon, Xenar, Ultra, Ultra Star. Tessar, Janar, Visionar, Kiptar, Kipronar and Rotelar.
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011 Posts: 15679
Expire: 2014-01-07
|
Posted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 12:41 pm Post subject: |
|
|
iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
Minolta Rokkor 2/45.
Very simple to remove front and rear optical blocks. Lots of fungus on outer surfaces of both blocks (which are each in one piece, not possible to disassemble) but after 5mins soaking in ISO then rub with soft cloth, it came off. Visible damage from fungus around very edge of front element, but otherwise pretty clean.
Will test how well cleaning worked when the rain stops... _________________ I don't care who designed it, who made it or what country it comes from - I just enjoy using it! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
RSalles
Joined: 12 Aug 2012 Posts: 1372 Location: Brazil - RS / South
|
Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2012 5:11 am Post subject: Summmicron-R needs fungus cleaning |
|
|
RSalles wrote:
Well, at this point i'm again in hope to recover from light infestation of fungus a Summicron-R 50/f2 i bought some months ago.
Today i cleaned up - with a great success - a Pentacon 50mm 1.8 with some coating marks, and now it's like new - i guess.
I will appreciate any help with this cleaning job with the Leica; i'm thinking myself a very miserably donkey 'cause i payed for the "best specialist in the country in german lenses maintenance" and the Summi came back as it's gone!
The lens performs incredible well, even with this fungus - but, as my intention is to live a lot more, it would be a great idea if we can share a time taking some photos in the next - say - 30 or 40 next years!
If this job is a kind of "to advanced maintenance staff", well, i will maybe send it to Attila if he feels comfortable with this endeavour,
Thanks,
Renato |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Jesito
Joined: 24 Aug 2007 Posts: 5745 Location: Olivella, Catalonia, (Spain)
Expire: 2015-01-07
|
Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2012 9:11 am Post subject: |
|
|
Jesito wrote:
I've been able of successfully clean some Tamron adaptall, Samyang 500mm mirror, Domiplan (is not worth to spend time with them if not for practising), Minolta MD 50mm 1.7, Pentax-M 50mm 1.7, Sigma 70-210 M42, Helios-44 (several suffixes), some Hexanons, and some enlarger lenses.
Jes. _________________ Jesito, Moderator
Jesito's backsack:
Zooms Sigma 70-300, Tamron 35-135 and 70-210 short, 70-210 long, 28-70 CF Macro, 35-70, 35-80, Vivitar 70-210 KA, Tamron 70-250.
Fixed Industar-50, , Tamron 24mm, Tamron 135mm, Sands Hunter 135mm, Pancolar 50mm, Volna-3, many Exakta lenses
DSLR SIGMA SD9 & SD14, EOS 5D, Sony A700 and NEXF3, Oly E-330, E-400, E-450, E-1
TLR/6x6/645 YashicaMat, Petri 6x45, Nettar, Franka Solida, Brilliant
SLR Minolta X300, Fuji STX II, Praktica VLC3, Pentax P30t, EXA500, EXA 1A, Spotmatic(2), Chinon CM-4S, Ricoh, Contax, Konica TC-X , Minolta 5000, 7000i, 3Sxi, EOS 500 and CX
Rangefinders Chinon 35EE, Konica C35 auto, Canonet 28, Yashica Lynx, FED-2, Yashica electro 35, Argus C3 & C4, Regula Cita III, Voigtlander Vitoret (many), Welta Welti-I, Kodak Signette 35, Zorki-4, Bessa-R & L, Minolta Weathermatic, olympus XA2
Compact Film Konica C35V, Voigtlander Vitorets, Canon Prima Super 105, Olympus XA2 and XA3
Compact Digital Olympus C-5050, Aiptek Slim 3000, Canon Powershot A540, Nikon 5200, SIGMA DP1s, Polaroid X530, IXUS55, Kodak 6490, Powershot G9 and G10
CSCCanon EOS-M, Samsung NX100 and NX210, Lumix G5, NEX-F3 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
RSalles
Joined: 12 Aug 2012 Posts: 1372 Location: Brazil - RS / South
|
Posted: Wed Nov 21, 2012 3:34 am Post subject: New render Pentacon 1.8 50mm |
|
|
RSalles wrote:
Jesito,
What do you think about a clean-up of the Summicron-R 50mm? Did you ever tried out anything like that before?
Well, dunno if it's allowed to post images of lens clinic's results here, but here we go:
Pentacon 50 1.8mm M42 after a dismantling and optics cleaning:
_MG_3974_web por Renato A Q Salles, no Flickr
It shines again! If i remember well, some months ago i bought this lens for 19.95 from a ebay seller. Came with both caps and a black plastic lens box. I like it's colors. This photo saw PS only for sRGB conversion and resizing.
Renato |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ForenSeil
Joined: 15 Apr 2011 Posts: 2726 Location: Kiel, Germany.
|
Posted: Wed Nov 21, 2012 1:33 pm Post subject: |
|
|
ForenSeil wrote:
Cleaning fungus is always a bit gambling. Some can be perfectly removed others leaving haze.
If you could get a very cheap Summicron etc. with a little fungus I would try it. _________________ I'm not a collector, I'm a tester
My camera: Sony A7+Zeiss Sonnar 55/1.8
Current favourite lenses (I have many more):
A few macro-Tominons, Samyang 12/2.8, Noritsu 50.7/9.5, Rodagon 105/5.6 on bellows, Samyang 135/2, Nikon ED 180/2.8, Leitz Elmar-R 250/4, Celestron C8 2000mm F10
Most wanted: Samyang 24/1.4, Samyang 35/1.4, Nikon 200/2 ED
My Blog: http://picturechemistry.own-blog.com/
(German language) |
|
Back to top |
|
|
mr_botak
Joined: 28 Dec 2011 Posts: 4
|
Posted: Mon Dec 23, 2013 7:51 am Post subject: Front cluster on OM 1.4/50mm |
|
|
mr_botak wrote:
I have managed to open the front cluster on a couple of OM 50mm f1.4 version 5 lenses. I had nothing to lose as these were bad so:
Essentially this unit screws together from the front. There is a lot of friction and I couldn’t shift the front element even with the use of a big rubber block. There are no cemented elements, the inner elements are secured with a screw ring.
With nothing to lose I figured I’d go back to basics and used three heat cycles to break down the friction. I put the front cluster in and out of the oven three times at 190c for 5 minutes on 5 minutes off.
This loosened the front element which unscrewed with use of a pencil end eraser to apply force to the outer rim.
Inside is another element, this is secured in place by a screw in ring. This is very tight, but with gentle, persistent pressure can be released. A rubber band on the end of a finger works well.
The moisture and fungus in my copy was behind this element which in one case came away completely cleanly, and in another left some minor coating marks. There appeared to be no adverse affect from the heat on the coatings.
Re-assemble by reversing the above. The elements should not rattle within the front assembly, but the rings need not be overtightened.
It is very hard to avoid getting dust in between the elements at re-assembly, so probably only worth opening a lens up like this if the dust/fungus/moisture is serious. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|