Agitation v Inversion

Nesster · Expire: 2014-02-20

Now that Starbucks has come out with instant coffee, I foresee a polarization of the caffeinol crowd, pro and con Laughing

peterqd · Expire: 2014-01-04

Con here, way too expensive, and why don't they just do plain "coffee" instead of all those brews with fancy names?

martinsmith99 · Expire: 2013-11-18

I remember back in the day when this was a site dedicated to photography. Laughing

Anyway, can I use stirring with Ilfosol 3 or is this best to invert? I'm close to finishing a roll of Neopan 400 which needs to be brewed in the soup for 6:30. So can I use 30 secs stirring at the start (is it just one direction or back and forth?) and 5 secs efter each min?

hexi · Expire: 2011-11-18

Try 1 minute stirring then once or twice every 30 seconds. Clockwise or anti, but always in the same direction , you're won't be doing witch brew Wink

The longer you develop, better the contast and vice versa. If you do 7 minutes it won't be an issue. Though its good to always have the same film and developer to see different methods.

Now for the photo part : coffee is okay to drink, but if that could do dev as well i'm in Cool

check this link by the way : milk prints , yes you've read correct ^.^

http://www.alternativephotography.com/process_casein_pigment.html

zewrak · Joined: 12 Apr 2008 Posts: 1212

No matter film or developer. 1 min continous with hard taps on the bottom to release any bubbles. Then 10 seconds/3-4 inversions per minute. If you have been shooting hard contrast motifs, lower the time and vice versa. Always adjust the time. Not the agitation pattern.

Seele · Joined: 17 Apr 2009 Posts: 741 Location: Sydney Australia

It seems like the thread has evolved further now.

To my mind there is no "overagitation", but only "uneven agitation", if you use my method I described earlier. This uneven agitation and the resultant uneven development can be caused by so-called over-agitation or under-agitation:

For instance, if you allow enough standing time in relation to agitation time, you can invert the tank quite vigorously and still achieve even development. Say if you use 35mm film and give it greater inversion period and more number of inversions, you can get "sprocket hole rush", which is the opposite of bromine drag: developer rushes through the sproket holes at a greater speed causing increased densities from the holes into the picture area. This is particularly easy to get hole rush if you do the "spray can shake" instead of full inversion.

After the initial agitation I just give one inversion, making sure the film is drained and the developer fully homogenized, for each subsequent agitation period, and I never have bromine drag or hole rush.

Nesster · Expire: 2014-02-20

ryan s · Joined: 26 Sep 2008 Posts: 384 Location: Madison, WI

For a tank, I use a stainless bottom with plastic top (metal tops leak a bit...I also have 2. Plus stainless looks sweeeet Laughing

) and a metal reel.

In my opinion, the plastic tops seal better and are easier to remove than stainless. If you want to do inversions, that's my way of doing it. The stirrer seems easier although it's another piece to worry about losing Laughing

And then some like rolling...different strokes...

(Side note: mmmmm coffee. Just finished mine otherwise I'd be mad at this thread for mentioning it Laughing

Drank it from a stainless mug ahhhhhhhhh Very Happy

)