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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5044 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 9:23 am Post subject: Zeiss Ikon 515/16 - how sharp it should be? |
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kansalliskala wrote:
It is pre-war folder, not even very prestigious, pretty cheap, with Novar Anastigmat 7,5 cm / 4.5.
About 6 mpix "scan" of Kodak 100 slide.
Comparing it to Yashicaflex C with, Yashikor (Tomioka) triplet 80/3.5 on Fuji 100 slide.
100% crops
Novar
you can still see the spokes of the bicycle wheel.
Yashikor
of course it is better, it is 15 years newer
_________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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PaulC
Joined: 23 Dec 2008 Posts: 2318
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Posted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 9:55 am Post subject: |
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PaulC wrote:
If it is well-adjusted, it can be very, very sharp indeed. It looks to me as if your main point of focus was well in front of the bike wheels. I think if you are really careful in the way you use this you will probably get even better results than you have so far.
This is a very tight crop from a Nettar 516 (the 6x4.5 version) with the same basic Novar f4.5 lens. The file was scanned and sized to 21MP, the same as a 5D Mk2, and this is a 100% crop taken right from the middle of it:
As you can see, even the keyhole in the Yale lock is visible.
This is the original it was cropped from:
_________________ View or buy my photos at:
http://shutterstock.com/g/paulcowan |
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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5044 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 10:22 am Post subject: |
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kansalliskala wrote:
The film grain is what you see next on that scan. _________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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PaulC
Joined: 23 Dec 2008 Posts: 2318
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Posted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 11:29 am Post subject: |
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PaulC wrote:
So, you agree that the Novar is, potentially, a sharp lens _________________ View or buy my photos at:
http://shutterstock.com/g/paulcowan |
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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5044 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Fri Mar 19, 2010 7:38 am Post subject: |
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kansalliskala wrote:
There is also some sort of film flatness problem, the right and left borders of the picture are "fuzzy" but top and bottom are clear. Don't know if it is film transport or pressure plate that causes it. If it is pressure plate it could explain some out of focus problems. All infinity shots are not very sharp. _________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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PaulC
Joined: 23 Dec 2008 Posts: 2318
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Posted: Fri Mar 19, 2010 9:23 am Post subject: |
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PaulC wrote:
I always follow a very strict proceedure when taking a picture with any folder: First, slowly open the bellows, then check that you have a view you want to photograph and set the aperture and focus. ONLY NOW do I wind on, cock and shoot.
Try putting a layer of greaseproof paper or some other thin material over the film gate with the bellows shut, then click to let the bellows open suddenly and watch what happens to the paper. Once you've seen that, I doubt if you will ever again open the bellows after you have wound the film on. _________________ View or buy my photos at:
http://shutterstock.com/g/paulcowan |
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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5044 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Fri Mar 19, 2010 1:28 pm Post subject: |
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kansalliskala wrote:
Thank you for advice, so the air pressure disturbs the film placement.
EDIT: actually I do that exact same procedure every time, haven't just noticed it concsiosly. I never wind the film in place with this camera because the film advancement knob moves easily. _________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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Nesster
Joined: 24 Apr 2008 Posts: 5883 Location: NJ, USA
Expire: 2014-02-20
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Posted: Fri Mar 19, 2010 1:32 pm Post subject: |
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Nesster wrote:
You might find this interesting:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/29504544@N08/sets/72157620860652449/ _________________ -Jussi
Camera photos
Print Photographica
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