Yashica Electro 35 GS Kodak ProFoto 400 BW

Tharos · Joined: 03 Nov 2009 Posts: 322 Location: Istanbul/TURKEY

Scanned at a cheap lab. The resolution is bad. It is my first roll with the camera and I found out that the camera lets some light through so it will be fixed. Overall I must say I love the results from the cam and the lens.

C&C highly appreciated as it is my first roll after a long long while Smile

#1 (whitening on the left is easily visible on this one)

#2

#3

#4

#5

#6

martinsmith99 · Expire: 2013-11-18

Nice pics.

Is that lens flare on the 1st one rather than light sealing problems?

Tharos · Joined: 03 Nov 2009 Posts: 322 Location: Istanbul/TURKEY

Please check this image which is more problematic :

It happens in the same location and from top to bottom, so I believe it is light sealing problem.

djmike · Joined: 01 Apr 2009 Posts: 930 Location: Taiwan

I like #2, quite detail at low light.
Yep, #1 is also kinda over-exposed. Are they from same roll? It should not be light seal problem, otherwise all will have same problem.
Mike

Tharos · Joined: 03 Nov 2009 Posts: 322 Location: Istanbul/TURKEY

Yes same roll. I assume it changes with the light that comes straight to the camera but I am not sure. I will check again on next roll after fixing.

What else could be the reason ?

F16SUNSHINE · Expire: 2011-11-18

The light seals are very easy to clean up and replace. As long as your at it pop the top and clean the RF and VF also quite simple. There are many good tutorials online as well as one Jesito did here on the forum.
I don't think you are overexposing as much as getting a poor scan result.
If you are new to the camera here are the exposure comp tricks. Smile

1. Use the iso dial to give plus or minus EV to your shutter speeds by changing the meter sensitivity. It's an AE camera of course but, you still have control a 1.5-2 stops either direction if using 100-400 film.

2. The diode for the Meter is directly under the shutter button. You can use your finger to compensate for back lit subject.
Be very aware of that Diode as you hold the camera to shoot. If you cover it when you don't want compensation you will get overexposure.

Enjoy the Electro GS is a gem and stellar performer.

Tharos · Joined: 03 Nov 2009 Posts: 322 Location: Istanbul/TURKEY

Thanks for the tips. I was following something like this :

The meter warns you with red and orange lights but there are aperture stops you can use in which there is no red or orange signal.

I use wider aperture for more light and narrower for dimmer. I thought I could also try to shoot at the first aperture value that gives warning for that. Does that work too?

Putting a finger to cover the diode is a neat trick but it seems a bit difficult to control that way to me or am I missing something?

F16SUNSHINE · Expire: 2011-11-18

The camera can set shutter speeds up to 1/500 and down to 30seconds.

When you see the red "over" light that means that the camera will over expose at a given aperture. Stop down the lens until the light turns off.

The orange light does not mean underexposed. It simply is tell you that the camera shutter speed is below 1/30th of a second (remeber it goes down to 30 seconds).
So the warning is for hand shake only. Feel free to shoot or pick a bigger aperture to have a faster shutter speed.

Try some color film you will really enjoy the results. The camera and meter are accurate enough to expose evenly lit scenes with slides.
My favorite color film with this camera is Fuji 160S. Set the meter to 200 for outdoor use. It will be fine with this film.

Please continue to post any questions. I have used this camera a lot and can help you.

Cheers
Andy

rbelyell · Expire: 2014-01-31

interesting camera. this is the one with the non removeable 45/1.7, is that correct?

Tharos · Joined: 03 Nov 2009 Posts: 322 Location: Istanbul/TURKEY

Thanks Andy, that info about orange light is quite new and helpful to me.

So let's say I am on a tripod, than never care about orange light (as long as not more than 30 seconds are needed and in that case there is bulb mode)

But Red light shows when the shutter speed needs to be more faster than 1/500 and as the cam can not handle that, it will ve overexposed. Voila!

I have 200ASA Kodak Color film inside now. When it is finished I will have the light seal fixed and place new film. I can try Fuji and will of course send some samples when I do Smile

Whats the ASA on this, 160?

You think hood or any accessories needed? Would love to see some of your work with this cam and different films, is it possible that you post some of your work here or other thread and link here? Thanks..

rbelyell : yes that's right.

F16SUNSHINE · Expire: 2011-11-18

Yeah, if you use a tripod you will be fine on long exposures. You will need a cable release even in auto though. One of the peculiar things with the electros.
Even if the camera is exposing in auto for 30secs the shutter switch must be held down the entire 30secs (it will close automatically).
So for long tripod exposures bring your cable, push it in and lock it, unlock after shutter closes to release the shutter button and before winding the film forward and re-charging the shutter otherwise you will have problems.

There are threads here on the forum using electros. I have a few as does Attila, Bawang, Carsten, Katastrofo, Nesster, Orio.......You get the idea you can run the alphabet of member names using these cameras Razz

bawang · Joined: 26 Mar 2008 Posts: 548 Location: Indiana, USA