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Which prime lens is better quality (glass & image) |
Porst Color Reflex MC Auto 55mm f1:1.2 |
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9% |
[ 2 ] |
Asahi Pentax-M SMC 50mm f1:1.4 |
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71% |
[ 15 ] |
Asahi Pentax-A SMC 50mm f1:1.7 |
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9% |
[ 2 ] |
Asahi Super Takumar SMC 50mm f:1.8 |
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9% |
[ 2 ] |
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Total Votes : 21 |
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ManualFocus-G
Joined: 29 Dec 2008 Posts: 6622 Location: United Kingdom
Expire: 2014-11-24
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Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 10:08 pm Post subject: |
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ManualFocus-G wrote:
BTW no-one has mentioned the Domiplan yet _________________ Graham - Moderator
Shooter of choice: Fujifilm X-T20 with M42, PB and C/Y lenses
See my Flickr photos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/manualfocus-g |
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Rolf
Joined: 02 May 2009 Posts: 4123 Location: NRW/Germany
Expire: 2015-12-26
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Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 10:18 pm Post subject: |
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Rolf wrote:
You will find very often at *bay the remark TOMIOKA.
It seems that the seller there are copying this without any know-how from one auction to the other if it is a fast 1.2/50mm or 55mm lens. _________________ Rolf |
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hinnerker
Joined: 17 Aug 2009 Posts: 929 Location: Germany near Kiel
Expire: 2015-08-09
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Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 10:34 pm Post subject: |
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hinnerker wrote:
Hallo Rolf,
thats true.. most of the commercial seller don't know exactly the background story from Tomioka/Yashinon/Kyocera.
That is a "mysterical" with this lens.
As you can read in my footer, i did own 6 or 7 Yashinon DS-M Lenses,
24/35/2x50... All these Lenses where probably build by Tomioka, because Tomioka was a japanese Manufacturer and supplier for Yashica. Later on
Yashica did a company-takeover and Tomioka was going to be a part of Yashica Inc.
Thats the reason why it is so difficult to answer your question Tomioka or not. Most of the Tomioka formulas where later build by Cosina, as well as the most of the Porst labeled lenses.
I think, the Tomioka design was not longer patent protected and so it was possible for Cosina to support Porst with the 1.2 MC lens.
But i dont know this .. its just a speculation..
Hinnerker _________________ some light-painting lens stuff..
... and an EOS 5D MKII
www.digicamclub.de |
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ezechiel
Joined: 20 Aug 2009 Posts: 15 Location: France, Neuville de Poitou
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Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 7:18 am Post subject: |
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ezechiel wrote:
Hi again,
just received the porst and the takumar 55mm (this one is in M42).
I compared the Porst to the Pentax-A 50mm 1.7. I didn't tried the 55mm too much because the M42 adapter stayed almost stuck in the camera Then I found out that it is not like "stick the key back in and turn to unlock". I have to push that little metal piece really har inwards the ring to unblock the system (is that the piece for allowing infinity AF?). Anyway..
Different color rendering between Porst and Pentax-A, the pentax seems to have more 'living' colors. But the Porst sticks maybe more to reality. But the Porst is sharper at 1.2 than the Pentax-A at 1.7. Max aperture quality medal goes to the Porst for me.
The Pentax-A is also softer. For some pictures, I prefer the Pentax-A rendering. But I really like the bokeh of the Porst! Almost psychedelic:
This picture was taken in my garden. Just for testing, but any comment and critics are welcom on this 'test' picture
One problem.. There are some dust particles in the lens.. It doesn't seem to change anything to the picture, but that's food for fungus.. I never opened a lens. Will google a bit to find how to do it. But, should I do it?
Didn't received the S-m-c takumar 50mm 1.4 yet. So can't compare for now. But the Porst is a lens I will keep!! Maybe I should get rid of the 55mm Super Takumar? _________________ [URL="http://www.flickr.com/photos/ilias_duyck/sets/"][COLOR="Blue"]Flick[/COLOR][COLOR="Magenta"]r[/COLOR][/URL]
"Without music, life would be an error" Nietzsche |
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hinnerker
Joined: 17 Aug 2009 Posts: 929 Location: Germany near Kiel
Expire: 2015-08-09
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Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 9:00 am Post subject: |
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hinnerker wrote:
ezechiel wrote: |
Hi again,
just received the porst and the takumar 55mm (this one is in M42).
I compared the Porst to the Pentax-A 50mm 1.7. I didn't tried the 55mm too much because the M42 adapter stayed almost stuck in the camera Then I found out that it is not like "stick the key back in and turn to unlock". I have to push that little metal piece really har inwards the ring to unblock the system (is that the piece for allowing infinity AF?). Anyway..
Different color rendering between Porst and Pentax-A, the pentax seems to have more 'living' colors. But the Porst sticks maybe more to reality. But the Porst is sharper at 1.2 than the Pentax-A at 1.7. Max aperture quality medal goes to the Porst for me.
The Pentax-A is also softer. For some pictures, I prefer the Pentax-A rendering. But I really like the bokeh of the Porst! Almost psychedelic:
This picture was taken in my garden. Just for testing, but any comment and critics are welcom on this 'test' picture
One problem.. There are some dust particles in the lens.. It doesn't seem to change anything to the picture, but that's food for fungus.. I never opened a lens. Will google a bit to find how to do it. But, should I do it?
Didn't received the S-m-c takumar 50mm 1.4 yet. So can't compare for now. But the Porst is a lens I will keep!! Maybe I should get rid of the 55mm Super Takumar? |
Hello,
its very easy to disassemble the Porst.
Unscrew the front part of the tubus. The outer metall - ring comes out together with the engraving ring. If this part of the Tubus is dismatled, you can see that the front element is also a srew type.. its easy to disassemble the porst.. i will give you some images for doing that.
Says more than 1000 Words..
More in some minutes..
greetz
Hinnerker _________________ some light-painting lens stuff..
... and an EOS 5D MKII
www.digicamclub.de |
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hinnerker
Joined: 17 Aug 2009 Posts: 929 Location: Germany near Kiel
Expire: 2015-08-09
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Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 9:07 am Post subject: |
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hinnerker wrote:
Ok, here are three images how to disassemble the 1.2/55mm Porst.
Now you are also able to clean Stuck Aperture..
On the rear element you can also work if you have to do so..
Greetz
Hinnerker _________________ some light-painting lens stuff..
... and an EOS 5D MKII
www.digicamclub.de |
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ezechiel
Joined: 20 Aug 2009 Posts: 15 Location: France, Neuville de Poitou
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Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 9:56 am Post subject: |
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ezechiel wrote:
Danke Schön!!
I will clean it as soon as I will have some time! This lens seems really easy to dissasemble! No work at all compared to zoom lenses
For the inner part, cleaning with a soft brush is enough I guess.
But would it do some harm to the coating if I cleaned it with the non-brush part of a lenspen for example? _________________ [URL="http://www.flickr.com/photos/ilias_duyck/sets/"][COLOR="Blue"]Flick[/COLOR][COLOR="Magenta"]r[/COLOR][/URL]
"Without music, life would be an error" Nietzsche |
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hinnerker
Joined: 17 Aug 2009 Posts: 929 Location: Germany near Kiel
Expire: 2015-08-09
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Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 10:35 am Post subject: |
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hinnerker wrote:
ezechiel wrote: |
Danke Schön!!
I will clean it as soon as I will have some time! This lens seems really easy to dissasemble! No work at all compared to zoom lenses
For the inner part, cleaning with a soft brush is enough I guess.
But would it do some harm to the coating if I cleaned it with the non-brush part of a lenspen for example? |
Bitte schön...
please dont take a brush on the lens... blow away small particles, then take your breath in addition with cigarett papers, which are used for selfrolling cigarettes and with small amounts of pressure and small rotation movements try to clean the lens.. after, blow away the rest of particels.. with clean air.
greetz
Hinnerker _________________ some light-painting lens stuff..
... and an EOS 5D MKII
www.digicamclub.de |
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ezechiel
Joined: 20 Aug 2009 Posts: 15 Location: France, Neuville de Poitou
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Posted: Sat Oct 03, 2009 12:04 pm Post subject: |
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ezechiel wrote:
Hi,
all cleaned up now. For the rear element, I had to open the lens completely, but now I'm haing little trouble to put it back in one piece.
if I understood well, I focus(turn) to infinite, put the two pieces together so that diafragm controller is in the right place (this just for finding the right position)
then turn the focus ring the other way and once the lens block is as far as possible, turn the other way again to assemble the two pieces (screw thread that is inside the focus ring).
Or is there another way?
Thanks in advance. _________________ [URL="http://www.flickr.com/photos/ilias_duyck/sets/"][COLOR="Blue"]Flick[/COLOR][COLOR="Magenta"]r[/COLOR][/URL]
"Without music, life would be an error" Nietzsche |
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ezechiel
Joined: 20 Aug 2009 Posts: 15 Location: France, Neuville de Poitou
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Posted: Sat Oct 03, 2009 3:01 pm Post subject: |
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ezechiel wrote:
Got it fixed
Before starting to reassemble, put the aperture ring on minimum aperture (f22) and position the aperture slider on the lens part accordingly.
Be careful to remind the position of the lens part accordingly to the part with aperture ring (sorry for my english ^^). For example, in my case, the number 2 of 'f' position 1.2 was exactly aligned with the L of the word COLOR on the front of the lens.
Remove the lens part from bottom part.
Next, I screwed the focus ring totally on the bottom part (with the aperture ring) and then screwed back until it is in a 'normal' position. Because when you screw it on totally, you can't go till infinite. So unscrew it a bit till there is no problem to turn the focus ring from 0.5 to infinite.
Then unscrew the focus ring for about 2 and a half rotations (is this clear??). Then put in place the lens part in the focus ring. But don't screw it in too far. Let it take place just at the beginning of the screw thread.
Then, try to align the two symbols you picked earlier. I just needed to turn the focus ring a bit clockwise (if facing to the front of the lens). Be carefull that the lens part is still in the focus ring screw thread (at the beginning).
Next thing to do is hold the bottom part and the lens part steady and turn the focus ring clockwise. After a bit of turning, you'll maybe feel some resistance. Screw a little back and try again. This means that the aperture slider on the lens part is not completely aligned with the bottom part.
If you want to see if it is in its place, just turn the aperture ring. If the blades don't move, you've missed and you have to re-align the aperture slider on the lens.
If you succeeded, just continue to turn the focus ring clockwise. The aperture slider (and other alignment parts) are now in place so the lens element cannot turn anymore.
Now put the ring with distance scales in the right position and put back in place the three little screws.
you're done! _________________ [URL="http://www.flickr.com/photos/ilias_duyck/sets/"][COLOR="Blue"]Flick[/COLOR][COLOR="Magenta"]r[/COLOR][/URL]
"Without music, life would be an error" Nietzsche |
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DSG
Joined: 04 Mar 2007 Posts: 544 Location: London, UK.
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Posted: Sat Oct 03, 2009 6:51 pm Post subject: Re: Which prime lens? |
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DSG wrote:
ezechiel wrote: |
Hi,
Could you all tell me what prime lens would be better (glass & image quality) ranging from good to best? Or give comment on one of these lenses?
I just bought the porst, super takumar, and pantax-a but an original asahi pentax-m seems also interesting..
Should I go for the asahi or is Porst blowing them miles away regarding IQ and glass quality?
- Porst Color Reflex MC Auto 55mm f1/1.2
- Asahi Pentax-M SMC 50mm f1/1.4
- Asahi Pentax-A SMC 50mm f1/1.7
- Asahi Super Takumar SMC 55mm f/1.8
(the super takumar is 55mm, not 50mm as in the poll.. mistake)
And what would be better?:
pentax-M smc 50mm 1.4 or Super Takumar 50mm 1.4
Or are they the same but rebranded?
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Pentax M build quality is the worst I've vere experienced of any lens...I had a 50mm f1.7 SMC M literally fall apart in my hands!
I will never buy another Pentax lens after that.
As for the Takumar, I would'nt bother...I had a 50mm f1.4 Super Tak and it was the softest lens Ive ever had when WO...Returned it and kept my ultra cheap Pentacon 50mm f1.8 instead as it was just as sharp stopped down and certainly a lot better at f1.8 than the Pentax was.
Another problem with Tamumars is they use Thoriated glass elements, making them radioactive, which causes them to suffer from yellowing of the glass, reducing the lenses speed and giving a yellow cast to pics. ...Apparentely, several days exposure to a very strong UV lightsource is the cure, but I've heard thats its not always sucessfull.
The Pentacon did'nt suffer from that but it somtimes gave a slight magenta cast to flashlit pics so I went off that it the end.
Cant speak for the Pentax A series lenses as I have no experience of them but according to the first bloke in this review, I found, the Porst you have is just as sharp as the later Pentax FA 50mm f/1.4 as he owns both:
http://www.pentaxforums.com/userreviews/showproduct.php?product=441
From what I've seen though I'd say it was no match for my Canon FL 55mm 1.2 for sharpness when WO. The Bokeh of Porst when WO looks very nice and smooth, much like my Canon...Your probably better off sticking with the Porst though unless you can afford a Canon and have the engineering skills to convert it.
Last edited by DSG on Sat Oct 03, 2009 8:27 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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ezechiel
Joined: 20 Aug 2009 Posts: 15 Location: France, Neuville de Poitou
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Posted: Sat Oct 03, 2009 8:06 pm Post subject: |
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ezechiel wrote:
Hi there,
thanks for the feedback. I got the 55mm super takumar but a bit dissapointed. I prefer the s-m-c takumar 50mm. I did not test it a lot though.
The porst is a nice lens and quite sharp (have to improve my manual focussing though). But I should give it a deep cleaning, because I just cleaned it and noticed there is like a white haze between the two front elements. Maybe I'll do this later because it's only noticeable under a certain angle and strong light. But no dust anymore
The pentax A 50mm 1.7? I love this lens! Not a pancake but very small and great colors. I should leave it a bit aside and get back to the porst.
My 18-50 WR kit lens? . . . . . . I don't use it any more except when I need wide angle. Maybe I should sell it but I think one day, the WR will come in handy in a rainy day..
About converting lenses. I'd love to, but this means buying other lenses to use the mount (and thus $$$, so not right now :p ). Or is it possible to find just the mount of a lens?? _________________ [URL="http://www.flickr.com/photos/ilias_duyck/sets/"][COLOR="Blue"]Flick[/COLOR][COLOR="Magenta"]r[/COLOR][/URL]
"Without music, life would be an error" Nietzsche |
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DSG
Joined: 04 Mar 2007 Posts: 544 Location: London, UK.
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Posted: Sat Oct 03, 2009 8:58 pm Post subject: |
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DSG wrote:
ezechiel wrote: |
Hi there,
thanks for the feedback. I got the 55mm super takumar but a bit dissapointed. I prefer the s-m-c takumar 50mm. I did not test it a lot though.
The porst is a nice lens and quite sharp (have to improve my manual focussing though). But I should give it a deep cleaning, because I just cleaned it and noticed there is like a white haze between the two front elements. Maybe I'll do this later because it's only noticeable under a certain angle and strong light. But no dust anymore
The pentax A 50mm 1.7? I love this lens! Not a pancake but very small and great colors. I should leave it a bit aside and get back to the porst.
My 18-50 WR kit lens? . . . . . . I don't use it any more except when I need wide angle. Maybe I should sell it but I think one day, the WR will come in handy in a rainy day..
About converting lenses. I'd love to, but this means buying other lenses to use the mount (and thus $$$, so not right now :p ). Or is it possible to find just the mount of a lens?? |
Yes, you can use cheap M42 adapters as alternative-mount mounting plates for your lens.
I dont know what brand of camera you use or what mount your camera uses but assuming its a Pentax PK mount camera and you have a Nikon F mount lens you want to use on it then you just need to buy a M42-PK adapter (one of the new Chinese versions with the wide flange) and swap the Nikon mounting plate on the lens with the M42 adapter...Some accurate drilling with very small drills will be required and you will need to countersink the holes afterwards so the screwheads will be flush. |
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