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1kgcoffee
Joined: 16 May 2014
Posts: 51
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 Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 5:36 am Post subject: What would you do in this situation? |
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1kgcoffee wrote:
To get good exposure of the statue and the background church, without blowing out the sky? Standing on the opposite side of the statue is not an option.
http://imgur.com/vRiPLox
I want perfect dynamic range with full detail in the clouds, no blown out areas, but also full detail at ground level.
Obviously the scene is too large to use a fill flash.
Would you use a graduated ND filter? A CPL filter? Would you spot meter on the statue? HDR bracketing? |
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Aanything
Joined: 27 Aug 2011
Posts: 2187
Location: Piacenza, Italy
Expire: 2014-05-30
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| Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 6:11 am Post subject: |
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Aanything wrote:
| 1kgcoffee wrote: |
| Standing on the opposite side of the statue is not an option. |
What about waiting 6-12 hours? (joking)
For me, the first obvious answer would be hdr bracketing, or even only two exposures to be blended in PP, paying attention to not produce some irreal looking result (imho, the sky needs to be much brighter than the statue, so I would expose the sky so that it is almost blown out, and the statue so that it has readable shadow details, but it should still be quite dark).
Shall I do it with one single shot, I would use the histogram to expose the sky to the extreme right (sometimes you can recover detail even if it looks a bit blown), and then work in PP to bring out shadow detail.
Obviously you would need to shoot in raw, as jpeg compression tends to cut information at the extremes of the histogram, making detail recovery much harder.
I'm not an expert with filters, but I doubt they will help much in this situation.
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009
Posts: 5017
Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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| Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 10:04 am Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
Expose for the shadows and add the sky in with Photoshop ?.
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iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011
Posts: 15679
Expire: 2014-01-07
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| Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 10:50 am Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
HDR, 5 exposures 1 stop apart.
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009
Posts: 10965
Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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| Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 4:41 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
How about a graduated ND filter?
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philslizzy
Joined: 07 Aug 2012
Posts: 4744
Location: Cheshire, England
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| Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 11:30 pm Post subject: |
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philslizzy wrote:
The problem with a grad is that the subject and sky are occupying the same space. If it were a landscape that would be different.
I'd take one of the sky as it is and one of the statue, point the camera to the base of the statue, hold the exposure lock and re-frame. Blend in photoshop. I'm not sure how RAW would work.
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Tedat
Joined: 08 Nov 2011
Posts: 800
Location: Berlin/Germany
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| Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 8:34 am Post subject: Re: What would you do in this situation? |
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Tedat wrote:
| 1kgcoffee wrote: |
| I want perfect dynamic range with full detail in the clouds, no blown out areas, but also full detail at ground level. |
like this?
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Jan
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hoanpham
Joined: 31 Jan 2011
Posts: 2575
Expire: 2015-01-18
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| Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 8:38 am Post subject: |
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hoanpham wrote:
if you are using sony nex, set dynamic range to level 5 and shoot in raw. but hdr is the way.
light measurement on the subject.
sony compact (lens not changeable) has yellow intelligent mode (in additional to green intelligent mode) will automatically fires 2-3 images and compile an hdr output in camera. and it does amazingly good job.
d800 also allow dynamic range as sony a7r. these share same sensor.
Awesome PP Jan . |
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Tedat
Joined: 08 Nov 2011
Posts: 800
Location: Berlin/Germany
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| Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 8:51 am Post subject: |
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Tedat wrote:
it's just a quickie 
In photoshop duplicate the layer.. adjust one for perfect sky and the other one for shadows. Blend them together..
If you shoot two pictures with different exposure and use them instead.. it will be even better.
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Regards
Jan
flickr
Sony A7RM2
Contax T*: Distagon 4/18, Distagon 2/28, Distagon 1.4/35, PC-Distagon 2.8/35, Planar 1.4/50, Planar 1.4/85, Planar 2/100, Planar 2/135, S-Planar 2.8/60, Tessar 2.8/45, Mirotar 8/500, Vario Sonnar 3.4/35-70, Vario Sonnar 4.5-5.6/100-300
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Other: Minolta F2.8 [T4.5] 135mm STF, Meopta Meostigmat 1.4/70, Tokina AT-X 2.5/90.. and lots of early M42 Yashinon, Rikenon and Mamiya lenses |
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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014
Posts: 724
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| Posted: Fri Jul 04, 2014 3:26 pm Post subject: |
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alaios wrote:
| hoanpham wrote: |
if you are using sony nex, set dynamic range to level 5 and shoot in raw. but hdr is the way.
light measurement on the subject.
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I thought that if you set dynamic range to a specific level and then shoot raw this is just ignored.. I thought that dynamic range levels are for jpeg files only
A |
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1kgcoffee
Joined: 16 May 2014
Posts: 51
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| Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 2:02 am Post subject: |
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1kgcoffee wrote:
Thanks for all the responses! This forum is invaluable.
Tedat, that is exactly what I wanted I'm amazed you were able to pull out so much detail from a jpeg. |
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Tedat
Joined: 08 Nov 2011
Posts: 800
Location: Berlin/Germany
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| Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 6:47 am Post subject: |
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Tedat wrote:
it's easy to rescue details in dark areas (shadows), but nearly impossible in highlights.
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Regards
Jan
flickr
Sony A7RM2
Contax T*: Distagon 4/18, Distagon 2/28, Distagon 1.4/35, PC-Distagon 2.8/35, Planar 1.4/50, Planar 1.4/85, Planar 2/100, Planar 2/135, S-Planar 2.8/60, Tessar 2.8/45, Mirotar 8/500, Vario Sonnar 3.4/35-70, Vario Sonnar 4.5-5.6/100-300
Carl Zeiss for Rollei QBM: F-Distagon 2.8/16 HFT, Distagon 2.8/25, Planar 1.4/50 HFT, Sonnar 2.8/85
Konica Hexanon AR: 2.8/21, 1.2/57
Other: Minolta F2.8 [T4.5] 135mm STF, Meopta Meostigmat 1.4/70, Tokina AT-X 2.5/90.. and lots of early M42 Yashinon, Rikenon and Mamiya lenses |
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!Karen
Joined: 20 Jul 2013
Posts: 836
Location: Belgium Baby
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| Posted: Sat Jul 26, 2014 7:20 am Post subject: |
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!Karen wrote:
What I always do in this situation is take a meter reading for the sky and take a meter reading for the foreground. I then go for a happy medium between the two. You should get a pretty nice histogram with all info available then where the sky might still be a little overexposed and the shadows a little underexposed. But because it should not be too far off it can be easily corrected in PP without degrading image quality. Never fails for me. 
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