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Prometheus
Joined: 27 Feb 2008 Posts: 878 Location: Garphyttan, Sweden
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Posted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 8:40 am Post subject: What to do when threads are gone? |
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Prometheus wrote:
The threads on these small, small, small screws in my Super-Takumar 135 are gone, what to do? You might think this blasphemous, but I'm thinking about superglue :p _________________ Retrocamera.net |
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Sevo
Joined: 22 Aug 2008 Posts: 1189 Location: Frankfurt, Germany
Expire: 2012-12-03
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Posted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 9:47 am Post subject: |
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Sevo wrote:
If the purpose of the screws is to lock the barrel against horizontal force, you might get away with screw fastener (a mild variant of superglue hardening when in a thin layer between metal surfaces). If the screws have to withstand vertical force, you'll have to get replacements - regular superglue would prevent any future disassembly, and might propagate into the lens to create fume deposits on the lens surfaces or jam the helicoid or aperture mechanisms. _________________ Sevo |
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sichko
Joined: 20 Jun 2008 Posts: 2475 Location: South West UK
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Posted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 2:13 pm Post subject: |
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sichko wrote:
Use slightly larger self-tapping screws
OR
drill and tap holes in new positions for new screws.
I've tried the first option - it worked - but I don't have any experience of the second. _________________ John |
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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5043 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 4:14 pm Post subject: |
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kansalliskala wrote:
Sevo wrote: |
If the purpose of the screws is to lock the barrel against horizontal force, you might get away with screw fastener (a mild variant of superglue hardening when in a thin layer between metal surfaces). |
Loctite 222? _________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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Poolhall
Joined: 25 Feb 2008 Posts: 1296
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Posted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 5:02 pm Post subject: |
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Poolhall wrote:
John (Sichko) is right slightly larger self tapping screws -if you can get them -are the answer, otherwise really you need to re tap the threads and replace the screws which can be done but is really fiddly and slow. I would definitely avoid the superglue method Matthias as Sevo says that would lead to a whole crop of other problems |
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Prometheus
Joined: 27 Feb 2008 Posts: 878 Location: Garphyttan, Sweden
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Posted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 7:12 pm Post subject: |
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Prometheus wrote:
kansalliskala wrote: |
Loctite 222? |
Ahh, that's the thing I've been looking for but didn't know the name
The other version sounds a bit to hard for me, I'm not very technical _________________ Retrocamera.net |
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larsr
Joined: 25 Jun 2009 Posts: 272 Location: Helsinki, Finland
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Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 12:46 am Post subject: |
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larsr wrote:
You could always also look for a copy with destroyed glass or barrel, and just use it for parts (ie. the screws).
There are also special tools for threading metal, but it might be very hard to find them for so very small screws. i have a regular size set which enables me to make bolts with the exact thread size i want, but it only works if the metal shaft has a diameter around minimum 5mm.. _________________ Lars
Bodies:
DSLR: Nikon D200
SLR: Nikon FA, Pentax Spotmatic SPII, Zeiss Ikon Icarex 35TM
35mm: Voigtl�nder Vitoret
Nikkor MF
24/2.8K AI'd, 28/2.8 AIS, 35/2 AIS, 50/1.4 AIS, 50/1.8 AIS, 50/2 AI, 55/2.8 Micro, 35-70/3.5 AIS, 85/1.8K AI'd, 100/2.8 Series E, 105/2.5 AI, 105/2.5 AIS, 135/3.5 AI, Nikkor 180/2.8 ED AIS, 200/4-Q AI'd, 300/4.5-H AI'd
M42
Misc: Vivitar 28/2.5, Chinon 28/2.8, Cosina Auto Cosinon 50/1.8, Revue Auto Revuenon 50/1.8, Mamiya 50/2, Auto Flex 55/1.7, Cosina Cosinon 135/2.8 MC, Vivitar 135/2.8, Petri 200/3.5 CC Auto
Zeiss: Carl Zeiss (Ikon) Tessar 50/2.8, CZJ Tessar 50/2.8, CZJ Pancolar Electric 50/1.8 MC, CZJ Biotar 58/2 T, CZJ Sonnar MC S 135/3.5
Asahi-Pentax: SMC-Takumar 55/1.8, Super-Takumar 105/2.8, SMC-Takumar 135/3.5
USSR: Mir-1 37/2.8 (1958 GP), Helios 44-2 58/2
Pentacon/Meyer: Pentacon 29/2.8 MC, Pentacon 50/1.8 MC Electric, Meyer G�rlitz Oreston 50/1.8, Meyer G�rlitz Orestor 135/2.8, Pentacon 200/4
Nikkor AF
50/1.8 D, 60/2.8 Micro, 55-200/4-5.6 G VR, 70-300/4-5.6 ED, 18-70/3.5-4.5 G
Wantlist
Nikkor 105/1.8, Nikkor 135/2
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pshute
Joined: 16 Oct 2009 Posts: 15
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Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 9:41 am Post subject: |
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pshute wrote:
larsr wrote: |
You could always also look for a copy with destroyed glass or barrel, and just use it for parts (ie. the screws).
There are also special tools for threading metal, but it might be very hard to find them for so very small screws. i have a regular size set which enables me to make bolts with the exact thread size i want, but it only works if the metal shaft has a diameter around minimum 5mm.. |
There are very small taps available on eBay. I've never tried them, or any very small ones, I'm not sure how you hold them. |
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larsr
Joined: 25 Jun 2009 Posts: 272 Location: Helsinki, Finland
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Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 1:58 pm Post subject: |
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larsr wrote:
The taps or milling tools I have look like this:
that exact kit is used to make bolts and nuts for tires, but there are similar precision tools available to make smaller threads, too. you hopefully get the idea on how you use them :) _________________ Lars
Bodies:
DSLR: Nikon D200
SLR: Nikon FA, Pentax Spotmatic SPII, Zeiss Ikon Icarex 35TM
35mm: Voigtl�nder Vitoret
Nikkor MF
24/2.8K AI'd, 28/2.8 AIS, 35/2 AIS, 50/1.4 AIS, 50/1.8 AIS, 50/2 AI, 55/2.8 Micro, 35-70/3.5 AIS, 85/1.8K AI'd, 100/2.8 Series E, 105/2.5 AI, 105/2.5 AIS, 135/3.5 AI, Nikkor 180/2.8 ED AIS, 200/4-Q AI'd, 300/4.5-H AI'd
M42
Misc: Vivitar 28/2.5, Chinon 28/2.8, Cosina Auto Cosinon 50/1.8, Revue Auto Revuenon 50/1.8, Mamiya 50/2, Auto Flex 55/1.7, Cosina Cosinon 135/2.8 MC, Vivitar 135/2.8, Petri 200/3.5 CC Auto
Zeiss: Carl Zeiss (Ikon) Tessar 50/2.8, CZJ Tessar 50/2.8, CZJ Pancolar Electric 50/1.8 MC, CZJ Biotar 58/2 T, CZJ Sonnar MC S 135/3.5
Asahi-Pentax: SMC-Takumar 55/1.8, Super-Takumar 105/2.8, SMC-Takumar 135/3.5
USSR: Mir-1 37/2.8 (1958 GP), Helios 44-2 58/2
Pentacon/Meyer: Pentacon 29/2.8 MC, Pentacon 50/1.8 MC Electric, Meyer G�rlitz Oreston 50/1.8, Meyer G�rlitz Orestor 135/2.8, Pentacon 200/4
Nikkor AF
50/1.8 D, 60/2.8 Micro, 55-200/4-5.6 G VR, 70-300/4-5.6 ED, 18-70/3.5-4.5 G
Wantlist
Nikkor 105/1.8, Nikkor 135/2
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