Manual Focus Lenses Forum

alaios · Joined: 24 Jan 2014 Posts: 724

Hi
I would like to start shooting black and white film and I was wondering what types are there?
I expect that there would be different asa choices but what about other characteristics? I would like to have for example something that can create higher contrast between the whites and the blacks in the scene.

Regards
Alex

kansalliskala · Expire: 2016-12-30

here is one starting point

http://www.ilfordphoto.com/products/producttype.asp?n=3&t=Black+%26+White+Films

alaios · Joined: 24 Jan 2014 Posts: 724

hi I wonder why some films are rated as professionals..
I did not find also any high contrast film so far
Alex

ForenSeil · Mon Apr 28, 2014 8:22 pm

Every film has his own characterristics.

Main differences in B/W films despite speed in general are:

- There are orthochormatic and panchromatic films
Panchromatic means that the film is sensetive to IR-light, yielding in very different contrast, clarity and tones
Here's a comparision http://kickshawproductions.com/blog/?p=499
Generally panchromatic films have more contrast under usual conditions.

- The type of silver crystals produced by the film
Modern films like T-max are producing much less grain than older films (like Tri-X counterpart), as they having "flat crystal technology". The modern ones with flat crystals are said to be looking "more digital"

As important as the film or even more importat is the developer.#
Classic developers like Rodinal are longlife, easy to use and very failsafe, though producing more grainy results and with less tonal range than modern developers, and more base fog, all especially at higher ISOs (above ISO100 or 200).
The opposite is something modern like Kodak Xtol - short life (stock solution needs to be thown away after a half year max), does not work with all films, but producing much higher sharpness, resolution and tonal range, especially with ISO400- and above films.

You can adjust the contrast of the film with the developer btw., thinner and colder developer solution and longer development times = higher contrast in general.

My favourite combo after trying many was Xtol 1:1 + Kodak Tri-X 400, as it's very versatile as can be pushed up to ISO3200 by longer development time, and producing quite high res, good clarity and decent tonal range.
Same combo (except early pics made with a similar developer called D76, the Xtol predecessor) was used by James Nachtwey for example, if you need some samples

For more classic 70ies look I would recommend Rodinal + Agfa APX100

alaios · Joined: 24 Jan 2014 Posts: 724

Hi thanks for sharing these.
As you are German (I live in Germany but I do not speak German, I work in an English speaking university)
a. Where do you buy your films?
b. Where would you go to develop those? I can see that even DM in Germany can develop films.. I am not sure about the quality though..
c. They say that developing black and white film is not that hard. Do you have a link to get started with the theory?

Alex

buerokratiehasser · Joined: 12 Jun 2011 Posts: 470

Not much clue about BW except that there are standard, CN41 fake and Scala-type

Trying to have standard silver halide developed will cost you like 10 bucks (per roll) and the results will suck. In any instance, you won't be able to influence the process, which unfortunately is sort of important for much BW artsy art

bernhardas · Expire: 2017-05-23

Edited

David · Expire: 2013-01-25

In Germany, check Macodirect.de for Maco Direct.

philslizzy · Joined: 07 Aug 2012 Posts: 4753 Location: Cheshire, England

Caffenol. Home made developer using coffee, washing soda, vitamin C and water. There are dozens of recipes for all films and desired results.

google it and get more confused than you are.