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What a difference a lens made
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 2:02 am    Post subject: What a difference a lens made Reply with quote

I promised to shoot the same subject with different lenses, some new and some old, so to have a nice talk about the results.

I must say the differences are huge indeed, more than I expected actually, and I must say I'm very happy with it because I can clearly see which lens is good for a task. I'm also very interested in your opinions.

All the shots are pure RAW conversion without ANY adjustement.

Here we go:

NIKKOR AF 35/2 1/125 f2.8



CZJ Alu Flektogon 35/2.8 1/80 f2.8 (don't ask me why I had to increase time by 2/3 stop, but it was needed)



Impressive difference! And the lens hasn't no haze neither fungus. It behaves in a completely different manner with this backlight situation but while it could seem an awful result (and I'm sure I could improve it making a hood for this lens), actually it is extremely useful when you need a low contrast image where you need not to lose some details (as with the candle shot where the Nikkor probably would have come out too much contrasty and harsh).

Let's continue

MEYER Lydith 30/3.5 1/80 f3.5 (I had to move the camera about 4-5 cm cloer to get a similar view).



I have to say I love the Lydith a lot. It's "human" just like most of the Meyer lenses. Maybe not sharp, maybe microcontrast is not so good, but whatever... I like them.

Just for the sake of it... two more shots but with very different focals.

CZJ Alu Sonnar 135/4 on extension tube 1/40 f4



Classic sonnar 3d effect, I prefer this lens (the MC version even more) on a extension tube than my 2 micro Nikkors.

INDUSTAR 50/3.5 alu m39 version, battered and worn out...



Ok let the jury examine the evidences, the trial has to begin Laughing


PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 2:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, for starters, you can put away the alu Flektogon and the Industar.
Very close between the Nikkor and the Lydith, but the Meyer Lydith has the
edge, and I like the closeup with the Sonnar/extension tube.


PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 3:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Katastrofo wrote:
Well, for starters, you can put away the alu Flektogon and the Industar.
Very close between the Nikkor and the Lydith, but the Meyer Lydith has the
edge, and I like the closeup with the Sonnar/extension tube.


Your tastes are pretty close to mine. Poor Flek and Industar suffer from the single coating (or what remained of it), I guess that with a black card hood they'll behave a lot better.

Still I find the Nikkor the worse one for this situation. While I can fix contrast in the Flek shot developing the Raw, and I have plenty of room for it as the detail is all there, I couldn't ever fix the harshness of the Nikkor. The only solution would have been shot 1/2 to 2/3 stop less, but still there will be too much contrast for this kind of shot (it's wonderful instead for landscapes and many outdoor shots).

The Lydith is the winner hands down though, I completely agree with you (and it costed about 15 euro, less than 1/10 of the Nikkor).


PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 3:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm going to be looking for that Meyer Lydith, great performer and superb
colors!


PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 3:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just to explain me better (because I'm sure someone is thinking that I went crazy when I said that I wasn't displeased with the Flek shot), this is the Flek shot after development in PS:



The worse thing in digital is when you clip lights or blacks, a old battered lens that gives me a low contrasted image with plenty of space from which I can develop the final shot is very useful (I'm not saying it's a great miracle lens, it's a useful instrument). I choose the contrast I want, not the coating.

Adding up that the strong diffused light (due to lack of coating) gives also the "sun light" effect that it's very hard to replicate with artificial lights and is very important in food shots.


PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 5:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I can see employing a little legerdemain in PS does win the day with
the Flek. I think I still like the Lydith one better, however, and that was
"right out of the box" as it were?

Hummm, toggling back and forth, the Flek does show more detail..


PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 5:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Katastrofo wrote:
Well, I can see employing a little legerdemain in PS does win the day with
the Flek. I think I still like the Lydith one better, however, and that was
"right out of the box" as it were?


Yep the first shots weren't processed at all, Raw to Jpeg with the ACR defaults.

Still Raw files must be developed just like film, so also other factors should be taken in consideration.


PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 5:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I really like the lydith.

What it really shows though is you need a less contrasty nikkor - maybe an old nikkor-o would be perfect Wink


PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 5:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As soon as I saw the Lydith image, I felt it was the best real world lens, with a look that is low-contrast, yet very realistic. I'm impressed by yet another lens I know nothing about! I love the underdogs when they come through as a superb piece of equipment!


PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 10:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A lens can't add contrast, it can only loose it through internal reflections which give veiling flare. This is not evenly distributed over the picture.

It seems that, when shooting raw, the tone curve should be used to select the type of contrast you want (lower contrast having a shallower slope in the midrange and a correspondingly greater preservation of hilghight and shadow detail).

Unless one is actually trying to use flare as a special effect (ie, one wants to see flare in particular areas of the image and has set up lighting accordingly to trigger that). I guess uncoated - or even better, coated with lots of scratches - lenses could be used for that.

From this set, it seems that the default curve in raw processing was unsuitable for the type of look that was aimed for.


PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

for me all the versions look soft and flat
maybe it is time for me to find a real monitor to appreciate them


PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 11:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ChrisLilley wrote:

From this set, it seems that the default curve in raw processing was unsuitable for the type of look that was aimed for.


Even with the linear tone curve in ACR (the flat one) the whites clip out in the Nikkor image.
As I said I should probably shot half stop less, but then the flower would be a bit underexposed.

Anyway I have already put aside my new Nikkors for this kind of shots, I should try the micro 55/3.5, the 50/2 H and the 28/3.5 AI though.


PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 11:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

poilu wrote:
for me all the versions look soft and flat
maybe it is time for me to find a real monitor to appreciate them


LOL, if in the other case it was your monitor for sure, this time the first 4 shots ARE soft and flat because I didn't processed them to make a good comparison.

Anyway I wouldn't be the one to stop you from buying a new monitor Wink There's always a good reason to do it. Very Happy


PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting and important report from different lens, thank you for sharing!
Lydith is a great very underrated lens I know long time ago.


PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 11:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A G Photography wrote:
ChrisLilley wrote:

From this set, it seems that the default curve in raw processing was unsuitable for the type of look that was aimed for.


Even with the linear tone curve in ACR (the flat one) the whites clip out in the Nikkor image.


Interesting (and surprising). Although I don't use ACR, since CaptureNX is much better (for NEF raw files, that is). I used to use a different RAW plugin for Minolta RAW files, too. But if the whites are really sensor-clipped n this image (and not just clipped in the converted, 8bit RGB image) then I find that pretty surprising. There should be at least a stop of exposure lattitude above the as-shot 255 white point (regardless of lens).

A G Photography wrote:

As I said I should probably shot half stop less, but then the flower would be a bit underexposed.

Anyway I have already put aside my new Nikkors for this kind of shots, I should try the micro 55/3.5 the 50/2 H and the 28/3.5 AI though.


In that situation, underexposing would not be my suggestion (but then, you already said the whites are clipped which rules out what would have been my suggestion, ETTR about 2/3 stop overexposure then bring it back in post).

Sometimes I wish for instant teleportation devices so we could say "keep that shot setup! I want to try it with my XYZ lens"

In this case my Nikkor AIS 28mm f/2.8 and the Voigtländer 40mm f/2 spring to mind.


PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes, I have the pentacon branded version of the lydith and I agree it is a wonderful lens. I actually just posted a few pictures of my own from St. Petersburg. I only wish it had a bit more turn in the focus ring, I tend to enjoy a really precise focus even though a wide angle usually does not need it.


PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 12:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ChrisLilley wrote:
A G Photography wrote:
ChrisLilley wrote:

From this set, it seems that the default curve in raw processing was unsuitable for the type of look that was aimed for.


Even with the linear tone curve in ACR (the flat one) the whites clip out in the Nikkor image.


Interesting (and surprising). Although I don't use ACR, since CaptureNX is much better (for NEF raw files, that is). I used to use a different RAW plugin for Minolta RAW files, too. But if the whites are really sensor-clipped n this image (and not just clipped in the converted, 8bit RGB image) then I find that pretty surprising. There should be at least a stop of exposure lattitude above the as-shot 255 white point (regardless of lens).


I used the Oly410 for these shots and its sensor has a bit limited dynamic range than the Nikon ones. I could actually recover most fo the clipped out zones but they were still too much "washed out" in light.

ChrisLilley wrote:

In this case my Nikkor AIS 28mm f/2.8 and the Voigtländer 40mm f/2 spring to mind.


I'd really like to try the Voigtländer 40/2, the example shots I saw were impressive.


PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 2:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't put away the Nikkor too easily. I guess this lens needs some underexposure. Try it again and you will see. In my eyes the first shot is a little overexposed compared to the Lydith shot.


PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 2:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

LucisPictor wrote:
Don't put away the Nikkor too easily. I guess this lens needs some underexposure. Try it again and you will see. In my eyes the first shot is a little overexposed compared to the Lydith shot.


I agree, but the contrast will be there anyway (and this is not a bad thing at all for other photographic subjects).


PostPosted: Tue Aug 05, 2008 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice shots!!!! ... my comment:

..had been working and using high-end quality equipment (MAC, Photoshop, Apple monitor proper calibrated) for 4 years for top advertisement agencies (clients such as Citroen, Peugeot, t-Mobile....) as a pre-press operator (I have got through thoushands pics high-top quality pictures) can say this - only one pic is OK and can be processed for print - pic taken with CZ sonnar 4/135 with ext. tube...

nice day, tf Smile


PostPosted: Tue Aug 05, 2008 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alessandro Borgia? Laughing
Your ananas recipe is perfect for killing someone Wink

Older lenses can be good if you need a lower macro-contrast as a starting point for digital transformations.
However, it's worth noting that the internal reflections can also impact the micro-contrast, with consequences on the perceived sharpness which are not as easy and without consequences to recover as the macro-contrast.

If detail is an issue (e.g. for printing large), then I would suggest to use the sharpest lens available while setting the lowest contrast value in the camera preferences (most DSLR offer this kind of control). This, in addition to the 4-stops latitude range of the RAW file, should provide with enough histogram room to handle also the contrasted lenses.


PostPosted: Tue Aug 05, 2008 11:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For a cheap solution, I would suggest a Rodenstock Rodagon
They are almost as good as the Zeiss Makro Planar
They will render food as food and not as photocopied food


PostPosted: Tue Aug 05, 2008 11:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

poilu wrote:
For a cheap solution, I would suggest a Rodenstock Rodagon
They are almost as good as the Zeiss Makro Planar
They will render food as food and not as photocopied food


Excellent suggestion.
I have seen great images taken with the Rodagons.


PostPosted: Tue Aug 05, 2008 11:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

trifox wrote:
I have got through thoushands pics high-top quality pictures

I have a friend who make covers for magazine every month
This time he send 50 pics from 400D and one from Hasselblad MF and they choice this one
The format was the same, colors and everything look about the same on the lcd but every month for almost 2 year they choice the MF
Maybe for serious work it is better to invest in a Hasselblad


PostPosted: Tue Aug 05, 2008 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

poilu wrote:
trifox wrote:
I have got through thoushands pics high-top quality pictures

I have a friend who make covers for magazine every month
This time he send 50 pics from 400D and one from Hasselblad MF and they choice this one
The format was the same, colors and everything look about the same on the lcd but every month for almost 2 year they choice the MF
Maybe for serious work it is better to invest in a Hasselblad


Excellent point, poilu! Smile There are too many things to do before you get final output. One more thing is: MONITOR -- o god! Old iiyama (from 80's - one of the best monitors for adjustments, then I have worked on BARCO - propably the best I have ever had... -BUT without perfect INPUTS oh no! I can remember when someone sent to our agency pic and said: i am professional photographer but we had to send it back Smile. I have been shooting for 5 months only - I am not skilled in this but now I can compare both sides - my another guess? When I were pre-press operator - I would have choosen something similar to CZ distagon with macro function.. SmileSmile