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CZJ Flektogon 2.8/20
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 2:44 am    Post subject: CZJ Flektogon 2.8/20 Reply with quote
More from the out of focus film SLR experiment Shocked

These were all taken with the Flek 2.8/20. I think I will like this lens, eventually.





Got some distortion!


PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 3:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Wow, that IS a sweet lens! Like the first one especially, what's the minimum
focusing distance for this lens?


PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 3:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Close!
Somewhere between 7 and 8"


PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 3:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Wow! This is truly a legendary lens! This one should be on every photogs hit list.


PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 5:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
If you dont eventually like it - send it to me, I will



patrickh


PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 7:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Fleks are great lenses, I am sure that you will love it.


PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 8:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
nice shots with a legendary lens


PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 9:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Some people say flektogon 20 is shit on DSLR, someone say it's brillant. So I bought one. Here is my samples (sorry for heavy master, but now I'm in work, origins at home):





For close shots, this lense is incredible. For landscape not so much, have to make a lot mastering. A bit flat colors, bad brillance (too dull darks) and cold color tempreature. Sharpness is ok, as I try.

Excuse me to show my pictures in Your topic, but I don't want to open one for two images. Your pictures are great, better show that I told before than mine pics.


PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 9:40 am    Post subject: Re: CZJ Flektogon 2.8/20 Reply with quote
maddog10 wrote:
More from the out of focus film SLR experiment Shocked

These were all taken with the Flek 2.8/20. I think I will like this lens, eventually.

What do you feel the problem is Michael? It's not easy to focus at a distance with this focal length, especially on a crop camera, but your focussing looks spot on to me, and lovely colours. With this lens you can find that the focus dial doesn't correspond to the actual distance and sometimes it will focus past infinity or not reach it at all. Maybe this thread can help:
http://forum.mflenses.com/flektogon-20-2-8-infinity-setting-t7070.html


PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 9:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Peter,
Out of the 36 exposures, only about 8 are presentable and only about 5 of those are really in focus. I think the problem is me not wearing my glasses when shooting with this camera, my first outing where I did not have a focus confirmation light to guide me. I just need some practice.

The camera's exposure meter seems to work really well, I only overexposed 2 shots. I am sure these were my fault, I probably ended up reading a bit of the subject that was in shade.


PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 10:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
maddog10 wrote:
Peter,
Out of the 36 exposures, only about 8 are presentable and only about 5 of those are really in focus. I think the problem is me not wearing my glasses when shooting with this camera, my first outing where I did not have a focus confirmation light to guide me. I just need some practice.

I can't get it right either. Nearly, but not perfect.
Of your out-of-focus pics, do you find they are all back or front focussed, or is it random? The reason I ask is that most of my pics seem to be focussed behind the subject and I'm not sure whether it's my eyes or maybe there is a fault with the focussing screen.

For some strange reason this message was timed 2 hours earlier than when I sent it and it jumped up the list out of correct order. I posted it at 1.03pm BST and it is timed 2 hours earlier at 11.03am BST. The correctly timed message is farther down.

Last edited by peterqd on Tue Jul 08, 2008 2:20 pm; edited 5 times in total


PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 11:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
I am nearsighted and left eye dominate. I have corrective lens for Nikon cameras and a couple of different Pentax lenses as well, that I got in a box lot of parts. I will have to see if any are the actual one that I need. I just need to get used to wearing my glasses, I would hate to keep missing focus when I get around to shooting with the Mamiya 645.

Went back and check all the scans. Most, but not all, were back focused.

Last edited by maddog10 on Tue Jul 08, 2008 1:02 pm; edited 1 time in total


PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 12:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
maddog10 wrote:
Out of the 36 exposures, only about 8 are presentable and only about 5 of those are really in focus. I think the problem is me not wearing my glasses when shooting with this camera, my first outing where I did not have a focus confirmation light to guide me. I just need some practice.

I can't get it right either. Nearly, but not perfect.
Of your out-of-focus pics, do you find they are all back or front focussed, or is it random? The reason I ask is that most of my pics seem to be focussed behind the subject and I'm not sure whether it's my eyes or maybe there is a fault with the focussing screen.


PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
With this lens - although I have the F/4 version- it's nice to focus at 0,40 in close focus and 1,20 m. (at F/ 11 = in focus from 0,50 to 278 mts. and at F/16 focus to infinite) in both cases With F/ 11 or 16 - both apertures the best of the lens, and in the F/2,8 the best may be F/8 and 11.

This is a reference that work to me. Regards.


PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 4:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
It is always very difficult to focus super wide angle lenses.
For them, I always use a FA chip adapter, if possible.
But the deep DOF of a 20mm lens also helps in another way. You don't really need to make precise focusing with a 20mm lens, unless you are doing a closeup/macro.
You can simply go with an optical evaluation of the distance from your object. If you aim at an object at say 7 mt distance approximately, set the distance on the lens by looking at the printed numbers, then set the aperture to f/8 or narrower. This way, even if the object is really at 6 mt or 8 mt distance instead of 7m, it will not make any practical difference: the level of clarity of image will be the same. This is an approach that I call "hybrid hyperfocal" - not the real hyperfocal (which would imply to set the lens at 3mt focusing distance, aperture at f/8, and leave things there and never touch them). Hybrid hyperfocal means to use roughly the same concept, but with an optimization applied to the focal distance.


PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2008 4:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
If I don't remember wrong, I had read a long atime ago, that Adams had said that when he used contax he focused at 7 feets at F/11 for close and 15 feet at F/11 for long.

One or two distances for work with 99% of circumstances, may be more fast. In external way, with the F/16 and prefocus, you only previsualized and clik! It seem to be better with leica or other rangefinger, than with SRL. I used it very much with my M4.

Regards.
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