View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
xaprb
Joined: 28 Jan 2021 Posts: 171
|
Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2021 12:24 pm Post subject: I’m Getting Started with Vintage Lenses! |
|
|
xaprb wrote:
Hello everyone! I’m a new member. I am familiar with using manual-focus lenses but haven’t explored discontinued lenses and I would love your advice on “putting a few into my shopping basket†to have some fun with.
I currently own a Fujifilm X-S10 and a handful of modern Fujifilm lenses, plus a couple of the inexpensive third-party lenses made in the Fujifilm X-mount. I don’t have any adapters to the Fujifilm X-mount yet, but they’re cheap enough so that’s not an obstacle.
My goals to explore some vintage lenses are portraiture and “ambience†photos of our household items, flowers, etc; mostly close-distance and slow; I don’t need super tele or macro. I’m basically documenting our life so I can produce some books we can look back at in future years. I’m interested in using older lenses to use the lens’s character itself as an artistic medium. Fujifilm’s modern lenses are incredible optically, so I’m not necessarily looking to get “overlooked vintage lenses with amazing sharpness†or so on, more looking for lenses with great character for portraiture/still lifes. Either a unique coloring, or bokeh character, or something like that.
Budget is not a big issue, I can afford to buy some lenses without regret if I later decide it wasn’t exactly the perfect choice. I’m very fortunate in that regard.
So here’s my question, if you were me and wanted to get a few lenses that are not all in different mounts and requiring a unique adapter each, and so on, what would you consider? A convenient “package†of say 2-5, that I only have to buy one or two adapters for, and can get a variety to learn and get familiar with. They don’t even all have to be very different, for example it could be “here are two examples of variations on a widely-copied optical formula†and I could learn how to use them to their best effect and appreciate the slight variations. Think of it as kind of wine-tasting for lenses. “Learn to taste the berry and vanilla!â€
I currently have a slight bias for focal lengths in the midrange, say, 35mm to 115mm, roughly; and for lenses that are sharp and bright enough to work well with my camera’s focus peaking feature. (It tends to work pretty well even with lenses that have a lot of softness, as long as they’re bright enough, say f/2.4 or f/2.8). That said, I am interested if you want to suggest that I broaden my horizons more.
I’ve been considering some of the Helios lenses but I don’t really understand the selection very well. I’ve also thought about some of the Minolta lenses due to the lovely colors I’ve seen from sample images; as a random example, I’ve admired some photos taken with the Minolta MC Rokkor-PF 55/1.7. What are your thoughts?
Also, I’m new to shopping/buying; are there good reputable stores for a US-based buyer, or is it mostly “search ebay and look around online and get them where you can�
Thank you in advance! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
marcusBMG
Joined: 07 Dec 2012 Posts: 1318 Location: Conwy N Wales
|
Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2021 12:54 pm Post subject: |
|
|
marcusBMG wrote:
This is my standard spiel on vintage lenses:
Vintage lenses
What to pursue?
1. "Nifty fifty". The 50mm "kit" lenses sold with 35mm fim cameras give eye-similar field of view on full frame, more portrait-like moderate telephoto on apsc. Their immediate advantages over typical 18-55mm/similar digital kit lens are speed (F1.7/1.8 is typical vs f5.6 - more than 3 stops advantage) and IQ (the competitive market meant that manufacturers didn't want to be considered inferior, and even by the 1970's the design of lenses of this focal length was well understood and well refined). And final advantage - price. These can be picked up for the price of a coffee and cake. My smc-a 50mm f1.7 is my most used lens.
2. Quality macro. Close focus photography is an obvious photographic avenue to go down and while you can certainly do surprisingly well for many things (ebay pics with my G1 + 14-42mm kit lens + CF filter) with eg a close focus filter on your digital kit lens, there's not much to beat the genuine article - typically 90mm/100mm/105mm lens with focus to 1:2 or 1:1 reproduction. AF is much less useful in macro, the camera doesn't really know exactly where you want your plane of focus so the MF vs AF arguement is much less pertinent. Vivitar (a number of different ones by different manufacturers) and tamron are the most common, tamron tend to be the best value, not difficult get one of the adaptall 90mm for around a hundred bucks or even less.
Also 90mm is ideal portrait focal length on apsc, and the tack sharp iq makes them great landscape lenses.
3. (Other) Quality primes. eg 135mm - this was also a very popular focal length and a well refined optical design meaning you rarely go wrong with one - high iq. OEM (inc takumars, pentax smc's ) and Soviet era lenses like Jupiter, Tair, Carl Zeiss Jena are immediate suggestions.
One caveat: wide angle in the digital era has definitely improved beyond the norm of the film era (as a simple generalisation), and there can be issues with vintage 24mm/28mm like field curvature on digital. Still worth judiciously seeking out the plums mind you, and 28mm is approx like a standard lens on apsc. Check out the 28mm club.
4. Telephotos. While modern big lenses really are radically good, if you'd rather spend $50 instead of $5000 there is lots of choice.
5. Lenses of particular interest/character. Mirror lenses are one of the first to come to mind in this category, tamron are the ones to go for, Soviet ones like Rubinar or MTO can also be very good and interesting (avoid cheap new ones off amazon). Then there are lenses known for eg bubble or swirly bokeh (helios for the latter).
6. Iconic/historic zooms. As per comment re wide angles, modern zooms as a rule are simply better. But it's still worth seeking out the plums, indeed that's the game! Vivitar serries 1, tamron adaptalls, contax/zeiss etc.
For the photography you have indicated, maybe think about a fastish nifty fifty and macros/quality 135's? You have an interesting choice re possibly concentrating on one mount/brand. For a range of quality and interest, and a price benefit due to the mounts not being compatible with modern dslr's (but adapters readily available for mirrorless), old canon CFD lenses, konica hexanon lenses or old minolta MD lenses could be the way to go. Others can be more specific, I don't go for these myself. _________________ pentax ME super (retired)
Pentax K3-ii; pentax K-S2; Samsung NX 20; Lumix G1 + adapters;
Adaptall collection (proliferating!) inc 200-500mm 31A, 300mm f2.8, 400mm f4.
Primes: takumar 55mm; smc 28mm, 50mm; kino/komine 28mm f2's, helios 58mm, Tamron Nestar 400mm, novoflex 400mm, Vivitar 135mm close focus, 105mm macro; Jupiter 11A; CZJ 135mm.
A classic zoom or two: VS1 (komine), Kiron Zoomlock...
Last edited by marcusBMG on Fri Jan 29, 2021 12:07 pm; edited 2 times in total |
|
Back to top |
|
|
georgegrant
Joined: 25 Jan 2021 Posts: 18 Location: Chongqing, China
|
Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2021 6:47 pm Post subject: |
|
|
georgegrant wrote:
Since you mentioned that you'd like to go close on subjects/flowers etc - and the X-S10 which I also use:
1) Meyer Optik Oreston 50mm 1.8 - Very close focus distance, almost same optics as the Zeiss Pancolar 1.8. Get the M42 mount (!) I even use this lens in commercial advertisements, it's that good ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8wX5sOfhDw )
2) Schneider-Kreuznach Curtagon 35mm 2.8 - This is one of my most used lenses. The bokeh and close focus distance is amazing - again M42 mount
3) Canon FL 58mm 1.2 (first version) - for those soft dreamy wide open aperture shots, the best 1.2 lens for the money (imho) - the similar FD SSC version is for pixel peepers. (FL Mount)
4) Canon nFD 200mm 2.8 or the Praktica 200mm 2.8 - both are amazing tele-photo lenses. If you want to spend more cash get the Zeiss 180mm 2.5 but she is difficult to find.
Thats a good start and those lenses work perfectly with the X-S10 - now, I would throw in a Lensturbo II FX to FD focal reducer which gives you full-frame coverage. You can attach the FD lenses directly to it - and get some cheap M42->FD adapters for your M42 lenses and you're good to go. The FX/FD focal reducer has the shortest focal distance giving you also the option to mount other mounts such as EXA (EXA->M42-> Lens Turbo) and even DKL. Don't get the FX/EF, you won't be able to mount FD lenses.
I really recommend the first two lenses. Here is how that combo looks like.
WechatIMG777 by george grant, on Flickr
If you get the lens turbo get some sandpaper and sand away the black paint it makes a good combo with older 'shiny' lenses (or diy customized ones like the one in the photo).
WechatIMG776 by george grant, on Flickr
Welcome to the rabbit hole
George |
|
Back to top |
|
|
KEO
Joined: 27 Sep 2018 Posts: 775 Location: USA
|
Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2021 8:51 pm Post subject: Re: I’m Getting Started with Vintage Lenses! |
|
|
KEO wrote:
xaprb wrote: |
if you were me and wanted to get a few lenses that are not all in different mounts and requiring a unique adapter each, and so on, what would you consider? A convenient “package†of say 2-5, that I only have to buy one or two adapters for, and can get a variety to learn and get familiar with. |
Your widest selection of old lenses will be with an M42-FX adapter. There are millions of old M42 screw mount lenses out there, including a lot of vintage German, Japanese, and Russian lenses.
I'd suggest starting with a Pentacon 50, a 58mm Helios-44 of some kind (the Helios-44-2 is most commonly recommended), and a 135 like a Super Takumar 135 3.5. All those lenses are very inexpensive, even in good condition. That would give you one German, one Russian, and one Japanese lens, and you could progress from there.
For a second adapter, there are many more choices. Minolta is one, but there's also M39/LTM (Leica Thread Mount), Exakta, Nikon F, Konica AR...too many to mention really. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
vivaldibow
Joined: 23 Jun 2018 Posts: 841
Expire: 2021-03-09
|
Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2021 10:17 pm Post subject: |
|
|
vivaldibow wrote:
georgegrant wrote: |
Since you mentioned that you'd like to go close on subjects/flowers etc - and the X-S10 which I also use: |
Good to see a Fuji X-S10 user. George, may I ask a question regarding setting up the X-S10 for MF lenses? I am also thinking of getting a copy. Currently I use Sony A7ii and for that camera, I have a button set for magnifier, a button or wheel to move the focus point around, a button to center the focus point by a single click. Are these settings can be set up similarly in X-S10? Or I'd like to hear how you customize the buttons and wheels on X-S10.
Thank you very much. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
stevemark
Joined: 29 Apr 2011 Posts: 4065 Location: Switzerland
|
Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2021 12:01 am Post subject: Re: I’m Getting Started with Vintage Lenses! |
|
|
stevemark wrote:
xaprb wrote: |
Hello everyone!
I currently own a Fujifilm X-S10 |
A warning in advance - those high res APS-C sensors are not ideal for vintage lenses. The 26.1 MP (APS-C) of your Fuji correspond to nearly 60 MP on Full Frame. That's simply too much for most vintage MF lenses. Get a simple, used FF camera with 24 MP, ideally with stabilizer (e. g. the Sony A7II). That's where the vintage lenses shine.
xaprb wrote: |
My goals to explore some vintage lenses are portraiture and “ambience†photos of our household items, flowers, etc ...
I’m basically documenting our life so I can produce some books we can look back at in future years.
I’m interested in using older lenses to use the lens’s character itself as an artistic medium. Fujifilm’s modern lenses are incredible optically, so I’m not necessarily looking to get “overlooked vintage lenses with amazing sharpness†or so on, more looking for lenses with great character for portraiture/still lifes. Either a unique coloring, or bokeh character, or something like that. |
Starting with two lenses on a 24 MP Full Frame camera, I would suggest a fast 35mm and a fast 85mm lens, e. g. Canon FD, Konica AR, Minolta MC, or Nikkor.
First the Canon FD set:
That's the pair I've least experience with. Why? When comparing it with other lenses, it just seemed to be "too average" - which means slightly dull colors, neither very good performance nor really a distinct "vintage" character, and mechanically a bit cumbersome: Those FD lenses are not as easy to mount / remove from the adapter as other bayonet mounts. Focusing is OK as well, but not as nice as other (eg. Leica or Minolta MC-X).
Now the two Konica Hexanons:
The AR 2/35mm has a similar optical construction as the famous Nikor 1.4/35mm, and quite a lot of "vitage" character, too: Low contrast wide open, and distictively blurred corners. Stopping down to f5.6 doesn't result in really sharp images, so it's not a lens I would recommend for landscapes. The 1.8/85mm is a very nice and versatile portrait lens: Low contrast and high resolution wide open, very littel CAs and very sharp at f5.6. Both lenses are built like a tank; focusing is (as with all but the newest AR Hexanons) quite stiff - too stiff in my opinion. Biggest drawback is the weird construction of the aperture ring. It really seems to refuse turning, and once you have made it turning, it tends to go too far (into the "AE" position) just to be locked there ... until, after some fiddling, you can unlock it and start the game all over again.
Now the most famous ones ... the Nikkors:
I've included here (since budget isn't an issue) the Nikkor 1.4/35mm. I'ts a legend, because it was the first 1.4/35mm lens for SLRs, and as such an important tool for reportage photographers. Now this one has really a lot of "vintage" look - low contrast ans lousy corners wide open, and even at f5.6 not as sharp as most 2.8/35mm "cheapos". But crtainly a lens with character! The 1.8/85mm, quite contrary, is very similar to the Canon FD 1.8/85mm. Nothing extraordinary, not much "vintage" look, some CAs ... all what you would expect from a good lens from around 1975. Many vintage MF Nikkors (if not most) do not focus smoothly. Many have "dried out" focusing threads (and some play), other have become extremely sticky. Nikon certainly didn't get it as good as Leica and Minolta with their MC-X series.
And here we are - the Minoltas:
These two lenses are really a joy to work with, both optically and mechanically. Both lenses have a similar rendering - lower contrast wide open (but not too low!), and nevertheless quite a high resolution. Stopped down the 1.8/35mm beats all fast vintage 35mm lenses i know (caveat: I've never really compared it side-by side to the Zeiss CY 1.4/35mm and the Leica R 1.4/35mm, but both these lenses are not perfect stopped down as well). The 1.7/85mm optically is quite similar to the Canon FD and the Nikkor, but it focuses really smoothly, much nicer than the Canon / Konica / Nikkor lenses mentioned before (same is true for the Minolta MC-X 1.8/35mm). And the Minolta aperure ring is very well made as well. So - unless you have a preference for other brands - I would recommend the Minolta MC-X ...
Of course there are many other manufacturers as well; othe such pairs would be
Zeiss Biogon 2.8/3.5cm and Sonnar 2/8.5cm (for Contax RF)
Zeiss CY 1.4/35mm and 1.4/85mm (if mones is no issue)
Leica R 1.4/45mm and 1.4/80mm (again if money is no issue)
Pentax (various fast 2/35mm and 85mm lenses with different character ... there are excellent Pentax experts here, I'm not one of them)
Olympus 2/35 and 2/85mm (both lenses are said to have lots of character, but i've never used them personally)
xaprb wrote: |
So here’s my question, if you were me and wanted to get a few lenses that are not all in different mounts and requiring a unique adapter each, and so on, what would you consider? A convenient “package†of say 2-5, that I only have to buy one or two adapters for, and can get a variety to learn and get familiar with. |
Once you have "mastered" the 35mm / 85mm pair, you may add a 20mm and a fast 135mm or 200mm. But that's another thing
Stephan _________________ www.artaphot.ch |
|
Back to top |
|
|
kymarto
Joined: 30 Nov 2016 Posts: 409 Location: Portland, OR and Milan, Italy
|
Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2021 1:59 am Post subject: |
|
|
kymarto wrote:
Let me suggest that you do some online research to see the looks of various lenses. A few sites I recommend are:
https://oldlenses.blogspot.com/
https://spiral-m42.blogspot.com/
https://flashbackcamera.jp/photogallery/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/59224964@N05/ (Matt's Crazy Lens Adventures)
https://toby-marshall.com/
The last is mine, and I have arranged it in order that mostly each lens that I have has its own separate gallery. Be aware that I shoot for bokeh and I post process to bring out certain characteristics of the lenses, so my galleries are somewhat specialized. There are others out there as well. Flick is a particularly good resource: search for the name of the lens that interests you and you can see many examples of how different photographers use a particular piece of glass. You can also do an image search with Google to see both pictures of various lenses and pictures taken with them.
I have generally found it useless to ask people what they recommend, since each person has a different idea of what is good, and generally people don't have a lot of different lenses to compare in their own use. They might love their specific 135mm lens and highly recommend it, but unless they have five or six and can compare them directly, and address your interests specifically (sharpness, mechanics, bokeh quality, handling) advice like that is not very useful IMO. Of course it can be a good way to find out the names of various lenses so that you do further research.
Once you have found some lenses that pique your interest, that is the time to ask people specifically about their experiences with those lenses. _________________ Vintage lens aficionado |
|
Back to top |
|
|
kymarto
Joined: 30 Nov 2016 Posts: 409 Location: Portland, OR and Milan, Italy
|
Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2021 4:26 am Post subject: Re: I’m Getting Started with Vintage Lenses! |
|
|
kymarto wrote:
stevemark wrote: |
xaprb wrote: |
Hello everyone!
I currently own a Fujifilm X-S10 |
A warning in advance - those high res APS-C sensors are not ideal for vintage lenses. The 26.1 MP (APS-C) of your Fuji correspond to nearly 60 MP on Full Frame. That's simply too much for most vintage MF lenses. Get a simple, used FF camera with 24 MP, ideally with stabilizer (e. g. the Sony A7II). That's where the vintage lenses shine.
---snip--- |
I beg to disagree: I just got a Sony A7R4, 62mp, after using an A7R2 (42mp) for some years. Sharpness is not the only consideration; the ability to crop to vary bokeh with a certain frame is also important. And many vintage lenses can take full advantage of a denser sensor. I do agree that FF is the better camera, at least if all you will be using are standard 35mm lenses. But there is also a world of joy in cine lenses, that do things that no full frame lens could dream about, and for which APSC or even MFT is the better solution. A high MP FF sensor allows you to use lenses with a more limited image circle, crop off the vignette, and still have plenty of resolution for those lenses, which as a rule resolve better than lenses with a smaller image circle. _________________ Vintage lens aficionado |
|
Back to top |
|
|
georgegrant
Joined: 25 Jan 2021 Posts: 18 Location: Chongqing, China
|
Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2021 7:37 am Post subject: |
|
|
georgegrant wrote:
vivaldibow wrote: |
georgegrant wrote: |
Since you mentioned that you'd like to go close on subjects/flowers etc - and the X-S10 which I also use: |
Good to see a Fuji X-S10 user. George, may I ask a question regarding setting up the X-S10 for MF lenses? I am also thinking of getting a copy. Currently I use Sony A7ii and for that camera, I have a button set for magnifier, a button or wheel to move the focus point around, a button to center the focus point by a single click. Are these settings can be set up similarly in X-S10? Or I'd like to hear how you customize the buttons and wheels on X-S10.
Thank you very much. |
Yupp, the 600-something focus points cover the sensor almost until the edges. You move the focus point position with the joystick, pressing it gives you magnification which you can control via the wheel above it (2 steps of magnification). Not quite sure if you can set up a button to center the focus, but that should be possible since you can customize almost every button. If the center focus option is really important to you send me a PM, ill have a look how to set it up.
The magnification is okay and focus peaking is very reliable - however something to know is that if your lens is very dirty (mist) focus peaking can have issues because lack of contrast.
Here an example image with a VERY dirty FD 300mm 5.6SSC, a 2X magnifier and a cheap FX/FD adapter.
300mm 5.6 SSC test by george grant, on Flickr |
|
Back to top |
|
|
georgegrant
Joined: 25 Jan 2021 Posts: 18 Location: Chongqing, China
|
Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2021 7:51 am Post subject: Re: I’m Getting Started with Vintage Lenses! |
|
|
georgegrant wrote:
kymarto wrote: |
stevemark wrote: |
xaprb wrote: |
Hello everyone!
I currently own a Fujifilm X-S10 |
A warning in advance - those high res APS-C sensors are not ideal for vintage lenses.
---snip--- |
I beg to disagree: I just got a Sony A7R4, 62mp, after using an A7R2 (42mp) for some years. Sharpness is not the only consideration; the ability to crop to vary bokeh with a certain frame is also important. And many vintage lenses can take full advantage of a denser sensor. I do agree that FF is the better camera, at least if all you will be using are standard 35mm lenses. But there is also a world of joy in cine lenses, that do things that no full frame lens could dream about, and for which APSC or even MFT is the better solution. A high MP FF sensor allows you to use lenses with a more limited image circle, crop off the vignette, and still have plenty of resolution for those lenses, which as a rule resolve better than lenses with a smaller image circle. |
Also have to agree with this. In addition, getting an APSC with a good quality focal reducer such as those from metabones or even cheaper lensturbo gives you options you don't even have on a FF camera. The focal reducer usually takes care of the vignetting you would have on a FF camera, but it also saves room in your bag. I can go out with a 50mm but "convert" it to a 78mm just by switching the adapter - this is really useful especially when weight is an issue. An APSC gives you simply a lot more usage options for your vintage lenses |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Zamo
Joined: 08 Feb 2019 Posts: 168
|
Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2021 10:01 am Post subject: |
|
|
Zamo wrote:
Welcome to this world! You can expect a lot of fun. Strangely, I fully agree with all that has been said (except with the APSC sensors being adequate or not... I have no idea about that, or the contrary).
In this forum you will find many fans of Konica Hexanons. I am among them, wonderful quality, second to none (at least to none of the terrestrial lenses. Leitz, etc supposedly play in a different category. I have no experience with them). There are pretty much no bad Hexanons. And some of them are very good, and, usually, fairly cheap compared to other brands. Or at least, not overpriced. Personal favorites: 35 2.8, 50 1.7, 57 1.4, 85 1.8, 100 2.8, 135 2.5. all of them great lenses. 50 1.7 in particular is ridiculously cheap and the first one of the list I would get. I would recommend to buy, try and enjoy many lenses. You can sell the ones that you disliked or those that bore you, usually at about the same price you bought them.
A few specific lenses you will find sooner or later (not even close to a comprehensive list by any means):
- Helios 44-2 (or 44-something) and its famous swirly bokeh (hint: in APSC sensors you get much less swirl, since it is more prominent in the corners of the film/sensor, and your APSC is smaller than the original ones). Strange lens, very cheap, easy to fix by yourself if needed... I have had several, get bored with them and sold them all. But some people really love them, it is a must-try.
- Pentacon 135 2.8, first version 8closes to 36 if I remember well, instead of 22 as the 2nd version does). Much larger than the second one, soft, not really very sharp, but its bokeh is wonderful. So it makes a great lens for portraits.
- Pentacon 50 1.8. Dirt cheap, not really worth it, but having seen some pictures made with it, you realized that the greatest part of a good photo is the photographer. Does its job, nothing else, so I would not bother trying... for 10-20 bucks more you can have much better lenses. But it is everywhere.
- Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 35mm 2.4 and 2.8. The 2.4 is very famous, somewhat expensive. I never understood why... I find the SMC Takumar 35 3.5 much better... (slower, that for sure, but still). But there are legions of followers. I might be wrong. The 2.8 has quite some "character". Not sure why, but I like it, I have kept this one, did not keep any of the more expensive 2.4s.
- CZJ 50mm Pancolar 1.8. Not the sharpest, not the anythingest, but I like it a lot. Love its colors, and have some of my favorite pictures takes with it.
- CZJ Sonnar 135mm 3.5. Also quite famous, fairly cheap, I consider it a real keeper, great everything. A joy to use.
You ask about the Helios in particular. I imagine you mean the Helios 44 (58mm f2), the most famous of them. It is a copy of the Zeiss Biotar, made in the USSR. I think the order, from oldest ot newest, is 44, 44-2, 44-3, 44M, 44M-4, etc until 44M-7. They become sharper each time, and after 44M they go to 6 blades instead of 8. Full list and info here: http://forum.mflenses.com/complete-helios-lens-list-anyone-t11435.html
My experience, not having tested them profoundly and comparatively, is that they do become sharper the younger they are, best for swirly bokeh were 44-2 and 44M (have never tried just "44"), and, as said, I was never convinced by them. Careful with 44-7, there are many fakes. Still, very cheap to buy, so go ahead and try. I would start with a 44-2, even if only for the look of the lens itself. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Ernst Dinkla
Joined: 30 Nov 2016 Posts: 410
|
Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2021 12:26 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Ernst Dinkla wrote:
Vintage lenses on different sensor types and sizes are hard to compare. Add to that the pixel density and the different sensor technologies. Like with MTF measurements the image quality and character is based on the combination of both components. If a lens can not 'outresolve' a sensor there still will be a difference in MTF results when used on a same size lower pixel density sensor of the same brand and generation. So will the expression of the character of the lens change. Cropped sensors (to the original format the lens was designed for) do not reveal the total character nor the total optical quality of the lens used. Speed boosters add their own character to the character of the lens, I doubt a neutral focal reducer can be designed or made.
If I need say 40 MP for a large print, have one lens and a choice between a 20 MP sensor or a 40MP sensor of the same size/brand/generation I will take the last one. Even when the pixels are a bit void due to the quality of the lens the alternative would be added pixels extrapolated from a smaller sampling base. In my experience you better build on more original pixels with all kinds of image editing algorithms than just extrapolate from less pixels that seem better.
An interesting thing about multiple sensor shift takes like possible with Olympus m4/3 cameras for a decade I guess (Sinar backs/cameras had it much longer), Pentax APS and now on more FF cameras, is that the image quality enhancement does not ask for higher resolution lenses than used in a single take. The main thing done is overcoming the limitations of the sensor's Bayer mosaic. Where half pixel shifts are made one could argue that lenses easily outresolving the sensor have an advantage but simple oversampling can already increase the resulting image quality. There is some analogy in flatbed film scanners that have a way higher sampling resolution than the actual pixel pitch of their sensors should allow. Yet lower noise, the result of oversampling, can increase the dynamic range of the scanner. _________________ Met vriendelijke groet, Ernst
http://www.pigment-print.com/spectralplots/spectrumviz_1.htm
March 2017 update, 750+ inkjet media white spectral plots |
|
Back to top |
|
|
vivaldibow
Joined: 23 Jun 2018 Posts: 841
Expire: 2021-03-09
|
Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2021 5:38 pm Post subject: |
|
|
vivaldibow wrote:
georgegrant wrote: |
Yupp, the 600-something focus points cover the sensor almost until the edges. You move the focus point position with the joystick, pressing it gives you magnification which you can control via the wheel above it (2 steps of magnification). Not quite sure if you can set up a button to center the focus, but that should be possible since you can customize almost every button. If the center focus option is really important to you send me a PM, ill have a look how to set it up.
|
Appreciate your response. Good to know all these. Now since the X-E4 is just out. I am considering that camera as well. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
KEO
Joined: 27 Sep 2018 Posts: 775 Location: USA
|
Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2021 5:43 pm Post subject: Re: I’m Getting Started with Vintage Lenses! |
|
|
KEO wrote:
xaprb wrote: |
Hello everyone! I’m a new member. I am familiar with using manual-focus lenses but haven’t explored discontinued lenses and I would love your advice on “putting a few into my shopping basket†to have some fun with. |
Ha!
As you can see already, you've asked about a huge, wide-ranging subject, and everyone will have a different opinion.
The one thing I would add to what's already been said: I would avoid "fixer uppers" for now, and stick to lenses you are reasonably certain are in good condition. Definitely avoid lenses advertised as having haze. Also avoid lenses with fungus, broken or stuck focusing or apertures, dents in the filter threads, or more than a few tiny scratches (often referred to as "cleaning marks").
You can get bargains on problem lenses and fix them if you know how, but that's an entirely different subject from adapting old lenses to a digital camera, and requires experience and special tools.
Good luck!
BTW, I'm a Fuji shooter too - been using an X-T2 for about three years. Your camera won't be a problem.
If I were going to recommend one single old lens from all those I've tried, without regard to price, it would be one of two competitors: an old Carl Zeiss Jena 58mm Biotar, or a Meyer-Optik Primoplan 58mm. 58mm is a superb focal length for crop sensor and can be used for almost anything. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
stevemark
Joined: 29 Apr 2011 Posts: 4065 Location: Switzerland
|
Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2021 5:57 pm Post subject: Re: I’m Getting Started with Vintage Lenses! |
|
|
stevemark wrote:
kymarto wrote: |
stevemark wrote: |
xaprb wrote: |
Hello everyone!
I currently own a Fujifilm X-S10 |
A warning in advance - those high res APS-C sensors are not ideal for vintage lenses. The 26.1 MP (APS-C) of your Fuji correspond to nearly 60 MP on Full Frame. That's simply too much for most vintage MF lenses. Get a simple, used FF camera with 24 MP, ideally with stabilizer (e. g. the Sony A7II). That's where the vintage lenses shine.
---snip--- |
I beg to disagree: I just got a Sony A7R4, 62mp, after using an A7R2 (42mp) for some years. Sharpness is not the only consideration; the ability to crop to vary bokeh with a certain frame is also important. |
Yes, high res FF has additional advantages over 24MP FF, of course. I was talking about 25MP APS-C, though.
kymarto wrote: |
And many vintage lenses can take full advantage of a denser sensor. |
I would say some vintage lenses can take some advantage
Well, even lenses such as the Minolta AF 2.8/200m APO or the Nikkor AiS 2.8/180mm ED are limited to f4.5 ... f8 on 24MP APS-C, while on 24MP FF I can use them from f2.8 ... f11. Even with these lenses - some of the best vintage lenses I have - there's some annoying purple color cast over the entire image (LoCAs) which really turns me off. No such problems on 24 MP FF, though.
Look at the example her: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic,p,1547418.html#1547418
kymarto wrote: |
I do agree that FF is the better camera, at least if all you will be using are standard 35mm lenses. But there is also a world of joy in cine lenses, that do things that no full frame lens could dream about, and for which APSC or even MFT is the better solution. A high MP FF sensor allows you to use lenses with a more limited image circle, crop off the vignette, and still have plenty of resolution for those lenses, which as a rule resolve better than lenses with a smaller image circle. |
Agreed. I'm not into Ciné lenses, and so i tend to forget / ignore them ...
S _________________ www.artaphot.ch |
|
Back to top |
|
|
caspert79
Joined: 31 Oct 2010 Posts: 3217 Location: The Netherlands
|
Posted: Sat Jan 30, 2021 7:09 am Post subject: |
|
|
caspert79 wrote:
I would probably recommend something like this:
Minolta MD 35/2.8. Seriously good performer, compact and quite affordable.
SMC Takumar 55mm f/1.8. Cheap, compact, fast enough, very good optics and top notch mechanical quality.
Tokina AT-X 90mm f/2.5 macro. Magnification is 1:2, or 1:1 if you buy the extender as well. It comes in different mounts, amazing performer, and suitable for landscape, portrait and macro. A very versatile lens. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
uddhava
Joined: 22 Aug 2012 Posts: 3072 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2021-06-21
|
Posted: Sat Jan 30, 2021 9:03 pm Post subject: |
|
|
uddhava wrote:
Welcome to the forum!
Hope you end up with some nice lenses.
I will be happy to hear what you buy and to see some photos.
Good luck and have fun! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
kypfer
Joined: 27 Sep 2017 Posts: 523 Location: Jersey C.I.
|
Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2021 11:10 am Post subject: |
|
|
kypfer wrote:
All sorts of good recommendations above
What got me started? The Meyer Optik Lydith 30mm f/3.5!
I figured if someone thought it was worthwhile setting up a production facility to produce "reproductions" in modern mounts, finding an original might be interesting.
I found one for less than £30 on eBay, complete with M42-PK adaptor already fitted … well worth the money The same lens, of later manufacture, is also available with "Pentacon" branding, but beware, there were also 28mm and 29mm Pentacon lenses, all very good, but not a Lydith
Everyone interested in this sort of thing should have at least one triplet … the vastly under-rated Domiplan is very good. The "triplet bokeh" effects are only really available wide open, so the 6-blade aperture isn't really a problem.
Similarly, a Helios-44 … I've got a 44-2 and a 44-M, the latter being easier to use, having an a/m switch, but pre-set diaphragms can give a certain amount of satisfaction from "getting it right" and "knowing what you're doing"
Afterthought :- don't forget the Zeiss Tessar 50mm f/2.8, an all-time classic and still capable of doing an outstanding job.
If you can't find a "proper" Tessar, one of the Russian Industars will serve adequately. The Industar 50-2, with it's awkward recessed aperture ring, is probably the most readily available and surprisingly compact for anyone used to the bulkiness of most modern a/f lenses
My "collection" has expanded somewhat since then, all bought cheaply, but most of them were tried and put in the drawer as not being "anything spectacular", though no massive disappointments either.
Good luck … and enjoy |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Lightshow
Joined: 04 Nov 2011 Posts: 3666 Location: Calgary
|
Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2021 1:34 am Post subject: |
|
|
Lightshow wrote:
Minolta SR:
28/2.5 - it's sharp, provides lots of character wide open and gets more clinical as you stop down. You say you aren't really interested in wider than 35mm, well, you're missing out, 28mm on APSC is wonderful as a normal, my favourite lens on my NEX-7 is my Leica M 28/2.8 version 2.
58/1.2 - it's a well known lens for character and bokeh.
100/2 - it's a great portrait lens.
Olympus OM:
21/3.5 - I absolutely love this for night shooting on a tripod, coma is well controlled and has nice stars.
55/1.2 - bokeh and character is what this lens is all about, it gets funky.
Canon FL/FD:
SSC 24/2.8, 50/1.4, 85/1.8, wonderful set of lenses that are very similar in size, ergonomically almost perfect.
FL 58/1.2 has tons of character like the OM 55/1.2 & Minolta 58/1.2, the FL 55/1.2 has smoother less funky bokeh, it's also a nice lens, one of the most economical f1.2 lenses.
Konica 57/1.2 & Nikkor-s 58/1.4 silver nose - Another couple bokeh/character lenses.
Pentax Pen F 38/1.8 - nice tiny little lens.
Pentax Super Takumar 28/3.5(early), 55/1.8, 85/1.9 nice rendering/bokeh and wonderfully built.
Helios 44-2 (58/2) and 40-2 (85/1.5) are nice no frills lenses that provide swirly bokeh when shooting up close, I'm also a big fan of preset lenses, I like the ability to adjust the aperture to any setting without being forced to use the indexed/detents positions, it lets me choose the optimum aperture to get the DOF I want for the subject. These Helios lenses are of simple construction that makes then relatively easy to service.
The last lens I'm going to include in this post is my Yashica Tominon Super Yashinon-R 3.5cm/2.8 preset(yeah it's a mouthful), the rendering of this lens is amazing, it has tons of three dimensional (3D)pop with nice smooth bokeh, close up subjects have a reach out and touch them look/feel to the pictures. _________________ A Manual Focus Junky...
One photographers junk lens is an artists favorite tool.
My lens list
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lightshow-photography/ |
|
Back to top |
|
|
alex ph
Joined: 16 Mar 2013 Posts: 1674
|
Posted: Sat Feb 06, 2021 5:45 pm Post subject: |
|
|
alex ph wrote:
Xaprb, out of curiousity, tell us please which choice you made. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
xaprb
Joined: 28 Jan 2021 Posts: 171
|
Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2021 1:50 am Post subject: |
|
|
xaprb wrote:
Hello everyone! Thank you all for your kindness and for being so generous with your time. I think your suggestions will provide me with many pleasant hours of browsing galleries and learning! I have already been having a lot of fun.
I bought a Helios 44-2 and it arrived this morning. Here's a photo of my dog with UFOs above her head waiting to abduct her. Fortunately she's a Rhodesian Ridgeback so she's always alert. Those UFOs don't have a chance.
Thanks again! After (okay, while) I learn how to use the Helios's strengths, I am planning to look into Minolta, including many of the ones you've suggested. I don't know why, exactly; just something you and others have said about them have registered with me, and I trust my instinct on it.
#1
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
uddhava
Joined: 22 Aug 2012 Posts: 3072 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2021-06-21
|
Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2021 9:17 am Post subject: |
|
|
uddhava wrote:
I think Minolta lenses can be a good choice. Not too expensive, nice lenses.
I like some of their zoom lenses as well.
Still there are some nice lenses with M42 mount. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
jamaeolus
Joined: 19 Mar 2014 Posts: 2971 Location: Eugene
Expire: 2015-08-20
|
Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2021 5:38 pm Post subject: |
|
|
jamaeolus wrote:
Most will recommend of course the Asahi Pentax Takumar, and Carl Zeiss Jena, Leica and of course the Japanese mainstays Canon, Nikon. Minolta, Olympus. Carl Zeiss or the German second tier Meyer, Schacht, Steinheil. IMHO Konica, and Schneider retina are often overlooked for various reasons. They are both fantastic at nearly every focal length. The Russian lenses can bv\e very very good and prices tend to be low but beware quality control can be an issue so just because one example doesn't work doesn't mean that they all are. Spend time on ebay looking at prices. Look at the sold prices for a good idea of what is actually a reasonable purchase as some sellers ask ridiculous prices and sometimes foolish people pay. Bear in mind that there are 2 main types of vintage lens buyers. Collectors and users. Some will do both. Collectors want rare, pretty, unused, historical lenses in the original box with complete provenance and will sometimes pay a 2-3 x premium for them. Users want a serviceable version that has excellent optics. The first adapter I would recommend is the M42. I am not familiar with Fuji but if there is a helicoid adapter I would recommend that as it allows a lot better close focusing for vintage lenses that often suffer from not so great minimum focus length. Warning: Playing with vintage lenses can be addicting. _________________ photos are moments frozen in time |
|
Back to top |
|
|
alex ph
Joined: 16 Mar 2013 Posts: 1674
|
Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2021 9:03 pm Post subject: |
|
|
alex ph wrote:
Good choice of the lenses, you'll surely have much of joy with their contrasted characters.
Smart dog and well taken! In- to out-focus transitions are lovely. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
KEO
Joined: 27 Sep 2018 Posts: 775 Location: USA
|
Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2021 7:53 pm Post subject: |
|
|
KEO wrote:
xaprb wrote: |
I bought a Helios 44-2 and it arrived this morning. |
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
|