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Split focusing prisms for digital bodies?
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 5:53 am    Post subject: Split focusing prisms for digital bodies? Reply with quote
Been thinking of getting either a cheap cheap chinese one off of ebay just to entertain the thought or save up for one of the Katzeye ones that are known to work real well. I have Nikon D5100.

Any thoughts and advice regarding this? I read that some of these will mess with the spot metering. Also that the split may "black out" if the aperture is too low. Should that be a big concern or not so much in the long run?


PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 7:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
I changed my Kodak SLR/c screen for a Canon AE split prism glass.

I've been using it with 300/5.5 lens without problems.


PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 1:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Any split screen should be fine.

It may get darker in view finder. You need to focus wide open, then step down to take the shot.
I have been using ebay, katzeye, and canon s-type.

The most expensive one (katzeye) also need a set of shims to calibrate it correctly.

ebay screen works ok out of the box, but may vary +/- one shim thickness difference.
I would say 90-98% accuracy. Shot few more frames to cover focus error, also get known of yours if it has 1cm front or back focus in view finder.

eyepiece magnifier also a good aid.

All screens are easily scratch, be careful, and careful to install in relatively dust free places.

It may have spot metering issues iin some cases, but insignificant. Use center weight instead.


PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 4:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
hoanpham wrote:

I have been using ebay, katzeye, and canon s-type.


How does the s-type work. What body?

does it need shims?


PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 11:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
S-type is canon made. I use it for 5D and 5Dm2 (EE-S and EG-S).

The standard screen has too thick DOF that I lost focus 50%.
The 5dm2 had correct distance from mirror to view finder, replace needs no more work.

The 5d classic had lose mirror. Canon re-glued for free, but they also messed up the distance from mirror to view finder.
The 5d needs shims and re-calibrated.

when the screen had been changed, focus success rate increased dramatically.

The only thing I am missing is eyepiece magnifier.


PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 12:20 am    Post subject: Re: Split focusing prisms for digital bodies? Reply with quote
SkvLTD wrote:
Been thinking of getting either a cheap cheap chinese one off of ebay just to entertain the thought or save up for one of the Katzeye ones that are known to work real well. I have Nikon D5100.

Any thoughts and advice regarding this? I read that some of these will mess with the spot metering. Also that the split may "black out" if the aperture is too low. Should that be a big concern or not so much in the long run?


Any chance you can let us see which one you are interested in. I have a d3200 it will in all likeliness use the same screen.


PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 1:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
About shims, do ebay kits come with those?

Else I've read about and watched install vids, shouldn't be a problem. I've taken apart my share of phones/game systems/etc to know how to do precision work.

All I'm curious about are what brands to go with/etc.

And naturally i'll post results when I'll get around to doing this op.


PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 5:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
hoanpham wrote:
The standard screen has too thick DOF that I lost focus 50%.
The 5dm2 had correct distance from mirror to view finder, replace needs no more work.


This is interesting. I realized that I can't focus barely at all at 35mm with 5DII. At 55mm it works.


PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 7:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
SkvLTD wrote:
About shims, do ebay kits come with those?


If I remember correct, the very first purchase came with 2 plastic shims, very thin, but difficult to use:
- no distance/thickness note about the included shims
- material is too soft like they are cutting out from thin plastic bags

Otherwise, none of the later ebay screen came with shims.


PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 8:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
kansalliskala wrote:
I realized that I can't focus barely at all at 35mm with 5DII. At 55mm it works.


35mm and wider, is hard to focus even with a S-screen.
I have the Samyang 35/1.4. For statical objects, it's ok. For moving subjects, very difficult.
Also most lenses wider than 35mm have somewhat 'short' focus throw.
Check focus throw from 1m to infinity. Samyang is better/longer than nikon ais 35/1.4.
The new zeiss ZF.2 1.4/35 has long distance, ~2cm (or some shorter)

I have good experience with AF confirm + S-screen, good for wide, and dim light, where electronic aid is helpful.


PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 10:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
hoanpham wrote:
35mm and wider, is hard to focus even with a S-screen.


usually get better results with distance scale. Smile


PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 11:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
And just so I understand this low aperture "blackout" - tried my girl Canon SLR that has sort of a "live" view mode that gets darker the more you close the ap down. Now, my D5100 ALWAYS keeps it wide open until you actually take the shot. So, that blackout issue will never really happen in my case, correct?


PostPosted: Mon Nov 04, 2013 7:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Confused

blackout happens on the split screen itself when you close the aperture


PostPosted: Mon Nov 04, 2013 8:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
I have used tamron mirror 500mm f8 with tc 2x, so it is very low light in the optical view finder.
If you have a split screen, most cases, there is something you can use to focus on even in dim light.

http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic,p,1354138.html#1354138


PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 2:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
kansalliskala wrote:
Confused

blackout happens on the split screen itself when you close the aperture


But only if the body shows the current aperture, no? D5100 always keeps even manual lenses wide open until it takes the actual shot, so you never really get to see how much you close down with your eye unless you're in live view.


PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
SkvLTD wrote:
kansalliskala wrote:
Confused

blackout happens on the split screen itself when you close the aperture


But only if the body shows the current aperture, no? D5100 always keeps even manual lenses wide open until it takes the actual shot, so you never really get to see how much you close down with your eye unless you're in live view.


That's correct.


PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 9:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Now I understand.

Try dof perview button at like 8 or 11 you see the problem.

edit: ok d5100 doesn't have one Confused


PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
I tried with Kodak and Jupiter 135/3.5.

Blackout happens between 8 and 11, the upper part goes black.

But this is my rigging of an old Canon AE ground glass.


PostPosted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 3:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Aaaand here we are:

http://skvltd.wordpress.com/2013/11/20/bresson-split-focusing-screen-nikon-d5100/

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