View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
|
Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 12:59 pm Post subject: Little tip for how to deal with street traffic |
|
|
Orio wrote:
I use one of my photos to share with you a little tip that I always try to use whenever is possible when you must include a street in the photo:
The tip is this: remember that in a photograph, cars are like people: they look good when photographed in front, and look bad
when photographed from the back.
So, when you must include a trafficked street in a photograph, wait for a moment when there are only cars that come your way,
and no cars going away. This way, your street traffic photo will look better.
Simple but effective! _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
|
Back to top |
|
|
philslizzy
Joined: 07 Aug 2012 Posts: 4745 Location: Cheshire, England
|
Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 1:00 pm Post subject: |
|
|
philslizzy wrote:
Thank you you are so right. _________________ Hero in the 'messin-with-cameras-for-the-hell-of-it department'. Official. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
|
Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 1:15 pm Post subject: Re: Little tip for how to deal with street traffic |
|
|
Excalibur wrote:
Orio wrote: |
The tip is this: remember that in a photograph, cars are like people: they look good when photographed in front, and look bad
when photographed from the back.
So, when you must include a trafficked street in a photograph, wait for a moment when there are only cars that come your way,
and no cars going away. This way, your street traffic photo will look better.
Simple but effective! |
Good to know thanks, but I was taking some street night shots in Ibiza town (close to the road), and the cars coming towards me had their headlights on, so waited till I saw the back of the cars. _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
mzzyhmd
Joined: 01 Jul 2013 Posts: 99 Location: Florida
|
Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 1:20 pm Post subject: |
|
|
mzzyhmd wrote:
I think it depends on the situation. If I am just merely capturing the street then car shouldn't be an issue but if I have a subject then I def wouldn't want to distract people away from the subject with a car in their way _________________ Nex 6: Sony 16/2.8|| Vivitar Komine 24/2|| Sigma 30/2.8|| Rokinon 35/1.4|| Jupiter 8||Helios 53/1.8|| Minolta Rokkor PF 55/1.7|| CZJ Pancolar 50/1.8||Steinheil 85/2.8||Leica Elmar 90/4||Meyer Orestor 135/2.8||Tair 133/2.8 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
|
Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 1:22 pm Post subject: Re: Little tip for how to deal with street traffic |
|
|
Orio wrote:
Excalibur wrote: |
Good to know thanks, but I was taking some street night shots in Ibiza town (close to the road), and the cars coming towards me had their headlights on, so waited till I saw the back of the cars. |
Nothing that a careful exposure can't handle :
_________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
|
Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 1:26 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Orio wrote:
mzzyhmd wrote: |
I think it depends on the situation. If I am just merely capturing the street then car shouldn't be an issue but if I have a subject then I def wouldn't want to distract people away from the subject with a car in their way |
The point is: there are subjects (like the one in the first photo) where it's either cars in, or nothing.
You can of course give up taking the photo, but then?...
Alternatively, you can wait for a moment when the traffic looks good enough (for how good a car traffic can look) to let you take a better photo.
Showing only the "face" of the cars helps greatly with that. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
|
Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 2:38 pm Post subject: Re: Little tip for how to deal with street traffic |
|
|
Excalibur wrote:
Orio wrote: |
Excalibur wrote: |
Good to know thanks, but I was taking some street night shots in Ibiza town (close to the road), and the cars coming towards me had their headlights on, so waited till I saw the back of the cars. |
Nothing that a careful exposure can't handle :
|
That's an excellent shot...I'm rusty on night shots so let the camera work out the exposure and didn't want the headlights fooling the exposure meter But I find street scenes can be difficult esp if there is a mass of people walking around with all the cafes and bars lit up as there is nothing that is the "subject" to focus on (just a mass of confusion).....so after two shots I gave up. Anyway if I think the shots look interesting I'll post them and accept the members view whether they are crap or whatever _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
|
Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 3:09 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Orio wrote:
Thanks You are perfectly correct in not wanting the car lamps fool your exposure meter! Of course the crowd as a subject can be a problem,
but it's a different type of problem (a subject problem, not an exposure problem).
Night shots require a somewhat different exposure mindframe than daylight shots. First of all, one needs to start with the mental attitude that there is no way you can record everything,
the dynamic range exceeds largely both that of digital cameras and film cameras. The highest lights need to go, so the darkest areas.
In the middle (if there is any...) one needs to choose what to give priority to, instead of simply compromise between different areas, which is the daylight attitude.
Night does not allow compromises.
It's an interesting subject, maybe I'll write about it someday! _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
|
Back to top |
|
|
rbelyell
Joined: 13 Oct 2009 Posts: 4269 Location: somewhere in the mountains of central NY
Expire: 2014-01-31
|
Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 4:40 pm Post subject: |
|
|
rbelyell wrote:
what a great tip! i never thought of that, but its totally true. thanks!
tony _________________ Epson RD1 + Elmarit 21/2.8; Summarit 50/1.5; Summarit 75/2.5; Elmar-c 90/4; Sankyo Komura 135/2.8, Hektor 135/4.5; Braun Paxina 29 6x6; Photax Boyer Paris; Holga 120 Pano
GREAT STUFF FOR SALE:
Contax T
Hasselblad XPan + 45/4, 90/4
Kodak Retina Reflex IV + full set of Schneider Krueznach lenses
Mercury 2 half frame 35mm
Kodak Pro slr/n
Fuji GM670+100/3.5+65/8!
Praktisix 6x6 medium format + ZeissBiometar 120/2.8
Bessa T 101 Anniversary Edition in Navy Blue
Mamiya Six Folder with Zuiko 75/3.5
Adaptall: Tamron SP 28-85 macro
Cameras: Canon IX
PM for more complete descriptions/pix. All in great shape!
_________________________
'buy me a drink, sing me a song,
take me as i come 'cause i can't stay long' |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
|
Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 4:46 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Excalibur wrote:
Orio wrote: |
Thanks You are perfectly correct in not wanting the car lamps fool your exposure meter! Of course the crowd as a subject can be a problem,
but it's a different type of problem (a subject problem, not an exposure problem).
Night shots require a somewhat different exposure mindframe than daylight shots. First of all, one needs to start with the mental attitude that there is no way you can record everything,
the dynamic range exceeds largely both that of digital cameras and film cameras. The highest lights need to go, so the darkest areas.
In the middle (if there is any...) one needs to choose what to give priority to, instead of simply compromise between different areas, which is the daylight attitude.
Night does not allow compromises.
It's an interesting subject, maybe I'll write about it someday! |
Well I thought after driving past the mass of people at 1:00 am and seeing all the night clubs and bars lit, I thought I could have captured the atmosphere on single shots, but a video would have been better. But I did get some strange looks from people with a film camera, on a tripod, over my shoulder _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
|
Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 5:08 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Orio wrote:
philslizzy wrote: |
Thank you you are so right. |
rbelyell wrote: |
what a great tip! i never thought of that, but its totally true. thanks!
tony |
Philslizzy, Rbelyell, thanks, you are welcome! _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
|
Back to top |
|
|
cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
|
Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 5:53 pm Post subject: Re: Little tip for how to deal with street traffic |
|
|
cooltouch wrote:
Excalibur wrote: |
...I'm rusty on night shots so let the camera work out the exposure and didn't want the headlights fooling the exposure meter But I find street scenes can be difficult esp if there is a mass of people walking around with all the cafes and bars lit up as there is nothing that is the "subject" to focus on (just a mass of confusion).....so after two shots I gave up. |
Here are a couple of techniques that I use. For a shot like Orio's above with the headlights on, since there is still light in the sky, what I would do in that instance is point my camera up a bit so I would be metering the sky. Lock in that reading, then recompose and shoot. I use this same method for sunsets. I meter the sky directly overhead. Doing so overexposes the sun (inevitable), but it gives me all the colors that occur around the sun and elsewhere. For dark nights, if I'm shooting something that's lit up, that's a little more difficult. For instance, if I'm shooting for nighttime lights, I can't really measure that meaningfully. If I'm shooting a subject that is illuminated, then that is somewhat easier. But if the subject is a small portion of the photo and the rest is mostly dark, then it gets a little trickier. I discovered by accident that if I just set my camera for flash and shoot at the nighttime subject -- which is too distant for the flash to have any effect -- that often I get good exposures with nighttime lights, and with subjects that are being illuminated by these lights, often they're correctly exposed too. Admittedly, this second technique is just a "shot in the dark" if you will, but often it works. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
|
Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 6:36 pm Post subject: Re: Little tip for how to deal with street traffic |
|
|
Excalibur wrote:
cooltouch wrote: |
Excalibur wrote: |
...I'm rusty on night shots so let the camera work out the exposure and didn't want the headlights fooling the exposure meter But I find street scenes can be difficult esp if there is a mass of people walking around with all the cafes and bars lit up as there is nothing that is the "subject" to focus on (just a mass of confusion).....so after two shots I gave up. |
Here are a couple of techniques that I use. For a shot like Orio's above with the headlights on, since there is still light in the sky, what I would do in that instance is point my camera up a bit so I would be metering the sky. Lock in that reading, then recompose and shoot. I use this same method for sunsets. I meter the sky directly overhead. Doing so overexposes the sun (inevitable), but it gives me all the colors that occur around the sun and elsewhere. For dark nights, if I'm shooting something that's lit up, that's a little more difficult. For instance, if I'm shooting for nighttime lights, I can't really measure that meaningfully. If I'm shooting a subject that is illuminated, then that is somewhat easier. But if the subject is a small portion of the photo and the rest is mostly dark, then it gets a little trickier. I discovered by accident that if I just set my camera for flash and shoot at the nighttime subject -- which is too distant for the flash to have any effect -- that often I get good exposures with nighttime lights, and with subjects that are being illuminated by these lights, often they're correctly exposed too. Admittedly, this second technique is just a "shot in the dark" if you will, but often it works. |
Good tips, but I think the problem for any night street shooter faced with swarms of people, rows of clubs, cafes, bars, parked cars with traffic is how to keep it simple to differentiate it from just a snap.....Maybe the faces of the clubbers\tourists walking towards me with the clubs etc out of focus in the background might work for the few shots I took. _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
kds315*
Joined: 12 Mar 2008 Posts: 16664 Location: Weinheim, Germany
Expire: 2021-03-09
|
Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 8:05 pm Post subject: |
|
|
kds315* wrote:
Great tip Orio and great examples to illustrate! _________________ Klaus - Admin
"S'il vient a point, me souviendra" [Thomas Bohier (1460-1523)]
http://www.macrolenses.de for macro and special lens info
http://www.pbase.com/kds315/uv_photos for UV Images and lens/filter info
https://www.flickr.com/photos/kds315/albums my albums using various lenses
http://photographyoftheinvisibleworld.blogspot.com/ my UV BLOG
http://www.travelmeetsfood.com/blog Food + Travel BLOG
https://galeriafotografia.com Architecture + Drone photography
Currently most FAV lens(es):
X80QF f3.2/80mm
Hypergon f11/26mm
ELCAN UV f5.6/52mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f4/60mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f2/62mm
Lomo Уфар-12 f2.5/41mm
Lomo Зуфар-2 f4.0/350mm
Lomo ZIKAR-1A f1.2/100mm
Nikon UV Nikkor f4.5/105mm
Zeiss UV-Sonnar f4.3/105mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f1.8/45mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f4.1/94mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f2.8/100mm
Steinheil Quarzobjektiv f1.8/50mm
Pentax Quartz Takumar f3.5/85mm
Carl Zeiss Jena UV-Objektiv f4/60mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha II f1.1/90mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha I f2.8/200mm
COASTAL OPTICS f4/60mm UV-VIS-IR Apo
COASTAL OPTICS f4.5/105mm UV-Micro-Apo
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f4.5/85mm
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f5.6/300mm
Rodenstock UV-Rodagon f5.6/60mm + 105mm + 150mm
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
|
Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 9:03 pm Post subject: Re: Little tip for how to deal with street traffic |
|
|
cooltouch wrote:
Excalibur wrote: |
Good tips, but I think the problem for any night street shooter faced with swarms of people, rows of clubs, cafes, bars, parked cars with traffic is how to keep it simple to differentiate it from just a snap.....Maybe the faces of the clubbers\tourists walking towards me with the clubs etc out of focus in the background might work for the few shots I took. |
One technique I played around with some was to set my camera on a tripod with flash mounted and a shutter release cable attached. I'd set the shutter to "B" and stop the lens down quite a bit -- say f/16. I was also using slow slide film, probably Kodachrome 64. So anyway, I'd focus on a scene where there was some activity. Then I'd trip the shutter, hold it open and pop the flash three or four times, spaced a few seconds apart, then close the shutter. The results were interesting. I'd get images of a person frozen in mid-stride with a ghostly trail of their leg movements following them. People in one place then another. Blurs as a person moved then the person's image frozen as the flash popped. You can get some very surreal stuff working with slow shutter speeds and a flash at night. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Lloydy
Joined: 02 Sep 2009 Posts: 7796 Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
|
Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 9:38 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Lloydy wrote:
Like all the best ideas, it's simple and very effective. _________________ LENSES & CAMERAS FOR SALE.....
I have loads of stuff that I have to get rid of, if you see me commenting about something I have got and you want one, ask me.
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/mudplugga/
My ipernity -
http://www.ipernity.com/home/294337 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
|
Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 11:37 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Orio wrote:
Lloydy wrote: |
Like all the best ideas, it's simple and very effective. |
Thanks _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
|
Back to top |
|
|
fuzzywuzzy
Joined: 18 Dec 2010 Posts: 1258 Location: Down East, Canada, eh?
Expire: 2013-11-30
|
Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 11:45 pm Post subject: Re: Little tip for how to deal with street traffic |
|
|
fuzzywuzzy wrote:
cooltouch wrote: |
Excalibur wrote: |
Good tips, but I think the problem for any night street shooter faced with swarms of people, rows of clubs, cafes, bars, parked cars with traffic is how to keep it simple to differentiate it from just a snap.....Maybe the faces of the clubbers\tourists walking towards me with the clubs etc out of focus in the background might work for the few shots I took. |
One technique I played around with some was to set my camera on a tripod with flash mounted and a shutter release cable attached. I'd set the shutter to "B" and stop the lens down quite a bit -- say f/16. I was also using slow slide film, probably Kodachrome 64. So anyway, I'd focus on a scene where there was some activity. Then I'd trip the shutter, hold it open and pop the flash three or four times, spaced a few seconds apart, then close the shutter. The results were interesting. I'd get images of a person frozen in mid-stride with a ghostly trail of their leg movements following them. People in one place then another. Blurs as a person moved then the person's image frozen as the flash popped. You can get some very surreal stuff working with slow shutter speeds and a flash at night. |
Something like this guy?
http://www.alexeytitarenko.com/port_cityshadows.html _________________ I welcome C&C, editing my pics and reposting them on the forum is fine.
NEX-F3
~~~~~~~~~
CZJ Sonnar 135/4, Biotar 58/2, Pancolar 50/2, Tessar 50/2.8, Flek 35/2.8, Flek 25/4
Super Takumar 135/2.5, 135/3.5, 100/4 bellows, 50/1.4, 28/3.5
Helios 58/2, 3M-5A 500/8, Mir 20M
Vivitar Series 1 70-210 - - - - - - - - Nikkor 200/4
Rikenon 28/2.8 - - - - - - - - Zeiss 50/1.7 Planar
PB 50/2.4, 135/2.8
Yashica 50/1.9, 28/2.8, 135/2.8
Hexanon 28/3.5, 50/1.4 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
|
Posted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 8:45 pm Post subject: Re: Little tip for how to deal with street traffic |
|
|
Excalibur wrote:
fuzzywuzzy wrote: |
cooltouch wrote: |
Excalibur wrote: |
Good tips, but I think the problem for any night street shooter faced with swarms of people, rows of clubs, cafes, bars, parked cars with traffic is how to keep it simple to differentiate it from just a snap.....Maybe the faces of the clubbers\tourists walking towards me with the clubs etc out of focus in the background might work for the few shots I took. |
One technique I played around with some was to set my camera on a tripod with flash mounted and a shutter release cable attached. I'd set the shutter to "B" and stop the lens down quite a bit -- say f/16. I was also using slow slide film, probably Kodachrome 64. So anyway, I'd focus on a scene where there was some activity. Then I'd trip the shutter, hold it open and pop the flash three or four times, spaced a few seconds apart, then close the shutter. The results were interesting. I'd get images of a person frozen in mid-stride with a ghostly trail of their leg movements following them. People in one place then another. Blurs as a person moved then the person's image frozen as the flash popped. You can get some very surreal stuff working with slow shutter speeds and a flash at night. |
Something like this guy?
http://www.alexeytitarenko.com/port_cityshadows.html |
Well I got a motorcycle blurred But this snap shows why I gave up on my street shots....organised chaos.
_________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|