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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 1:46 am Post subject: My first C-41 processing |
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Orio wrote:
Here's some results from my first C-41 home processing (using Tetenal C-41 kit):
#1 my home
#2 my home
#3
#4 this monument to the alpine soldiers was made by my father
#5
#6
#7
#8
#9
#10
#11
#12
#13
#14
I think that the results are more than decent, considering that this was my very first try, and that both the films and the chemicals
were long time expired.
These were my steps, in case someone is interested:
1- pre-soak of two minutes in demineralized water, at the working temperature (38°C)
The purpose was to warm up the film and tank so that the temperature difference would not lower the developer temperature
2- developer bath for 3'15'' at working temperature (38°)
3- stop bath for 30'', using an acidic solution at working temperature (38°)
the purpose was to keep the bleach/fix bath as free as possible from developer contamination
4- bleach-fix bath for 4' at working temperature (38°)
5- washing with demineralized water for 3 minutes, changing water every 20 inversions. Water at working temperature (38°)
6- stabilizer bath for 1' at approximately 25°C temperature
The negatives came out with a rather visible magenta cast on them, which obviously turned to a greenish cast after scanning.
After some research on the net for the possible reason of the green cast, I determined it was because of overheat.
In fact, being afraid that the room temperature (quite low, at approx 18°C) could lower the chemicals temperature during the operations,
I did set the bath temperatures slightly higher than recommended, at 38,2° to 38,4° C, expecting this slightly higher value to make up for the expected cooling of the solutions.
Big mistake: the solutions evidently did not get cooler, and the higher chemicals temperature altered the reaction to the dye couplers.
Yes, quite obviously a simple difference of a third of a Celsius degree is enough to cause this type of cast - unless it was the fault of the expired chemicals, which I have no way to verify soon.
The colour cast was easy to remove in PP in some pictures, and nastier in others; hence the sort of mixed results with colours that you can see.
Everything considered, I would call it a positive experience. Next time I'll make sure to stay as closest as possible to the instructions values, and not be influenced by external factors.
The pre-soak and the stop bath steps were not in the basic steps instructions of the Tetenal manual. They were, however, mentioned somewhere in the text, and I thought it was useful to implement them.
I think that this first test proved it right: pre-soak and stop bath both helped.
P.S. Contax RX camera with 2-3 different lenses (can't remember...) , Ferraniacolor 200 film. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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Minolfan
Joined: 30 Dec 2008 Posts: 3439 Location: Netherlands
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Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 7:55 am Post subject: |
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Minolfan wrote:
Looks as a good succes!
Nice pics and good colors. |
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poilu
Joined: 26 Aug 2007 Posts: 10472 Location: Greece
Expire: 2019-08-29
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Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 11:03 am Post subject: |
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poilu wrote:
look great, colors are good ! _________________ T* |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 11:14 am Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
Very good for first attempt...........for me as the supermarkets do a great job for 35mm at a cheap price, I would only return to DIY C41 processing if I can't find a convenient place who would do 120 as I really want to use medium format again. _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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pich900
Joined: 10 Jun 2007 Posts: 1745 Location: The Netherlands/Zwolle
Expire: 2012-12-27
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Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 11:29 am Post subject: |
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pich900 wrote:
I have no idea what's C-41 processing but the colors are indeed great and I love your home .... _________________ All my lenses are for sale, nikkor, Angenieux, Zeiss etc.....
Regards,
Pascal
-------------------------------------------------------
Nikon D700 |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 1:04 pm Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
thanks, C-41 is the code name for standard colour negative process.
(E-6 is for standard slide process) _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 10:47 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Great success and great images too! Congrats!! _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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themoleman342
Joined: 21 Oct 2007 Posts: 2190 Location: East Coast (CT), U.S.A.
Expire: 2013-01-24
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Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 11:16 pm Post subject: |
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themoleman342 wrote:
They look great! I'd love if you'd continue to process c-41 on your own. It would be wonderful to compare notes a few rolls down the road. |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 12:45 am Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
I surely plan to continue. Now I have understood that I need to be VERY VERY VERY restrictive about temperature changes,
which seem much more influential on results than developing times. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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Kram
Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 1344 Location: Portland, OR
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Posted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 3:47 am Post subject: |
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Kram wrote:
Good job Orio! Maybe the magenta/green cast was due to expired film? |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 11069 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 4:28 am Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Congratulations Orio! Wow, you have great results here imho. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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skida
Joined: 02 Mar 2012 Posts: 1826 Location: North East England
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Posted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 10:32 am Post subject: |
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skida wrote:
Kram wrote: |
Good job Orio! Maybe the magenta/green cast was due to expired film? |
+1 Nice house (and photos) Orio! |
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yinyangbt
Joined: 08 Oct 2010 Posts: 1973 Location: Romania
Expire: 2012-12-27
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Posted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 11:22 am Post subject: |
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yinyangbt wrote:
Very good results , Orio !
Congratulations !
I hope I'll be able to do it myself some day too . _________________ Cheers , Teo
http://photo.net/photodb/member-photos?user_id=5778915 |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 11:33 am Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
Very good results Orio, well done. You've made me think about trying it for myself.
About the temperature control, do you think a fish tank heater and thermostat might be useful? _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 2:37 pm Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
Thank guys
@ Peter: I have a CPE2 Plus developing tank, which so far I used only for warming up B&W baths. In this case I also used the rotational mechanism.
I don't think I would have been able to obtain such acceptable results without this tank to control the temperature.
The overheat problem was the consequence of my wrong choice only. Next time I'll follow the indications strictly. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 11:09 pm Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
Orio wrote: |
Thank guys
@ Peter: I have a CPE2 Plus developing tank, which so far I used only for warming up B&W baths. In this case I also used the rotational mechanism.
I don't think I would have been able to obtain such acceptable results without this tank to control the temperature.
The overheat problem was the consequence of my wrong choice only. Next time I'll follow the indications strictly. |
I meant for me. For B&W I keep the temperature as consistent as I can by floating the bottles of chemicals in a large sink of warmed water and using that water for the mix too. But the higher temperature for C41 would lose heat faster, so instead of topping up with a little hot water (which is difficult to do with accuracy), I was wondering if a fish tank heater and thermostat might be helpful. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 11:16 pm Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
Ah, now I understand. I don't know... I am not familiar with fish tanks, sorry. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 11:46 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
peterqd wrote: |
Orio wrote: |
Thank guys
@ Peter: I have a CPE2 Plus developing tank, which so far I used only for warming up B&W baths. In this case I also used the rotational mechanism.
I don't think I would have been able to obtain such acceptable results without this tank to control the temperature.
The overheat problem was the consequence of my wrong choice only. Next time I'll follow the indications strictly. |
I meant for me. For B&W I keep the temperature as consistent as I can by floating the bottles of chemicals in a large sink of warmed water and using that water for the mix too. But the higher temperature for C41 would lose heat faster, so instead of topping up with a little hot water (which is difficult to do with accuracy), I was wondering if a fish tank heater and thermostat might be helpful. |
I did check it out fish tank heaters before bought JOBO , none of them keep temperature at 38 that is too much for fishes, either you need to make a DIY one or have to modify a factory made one to allow higher temperature. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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