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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5043 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 9:23 am Post subject: Low temperature B&W film development |
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kansalliskala wrote:
I used to have pretty high temperature in the old place I lived (almost 25 C).
Now my darkroom is sometimes even below 18 C.
Do you think I should star warming it or is it better to use longer times at low temp? _________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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twinquartz
Joined: 11 Jun 2012 Posts: 316 Location: Sweden
Expire: 2013-10-29
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Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 9:31 am Post subject: |
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twinquartz wrote:
Päivää!
Longer times, of course.
If my memory is correct, around 18 deg C
was the standard temperature for developers
&c in the olden days. Correction: around 20 deg C
according to the semi-old tables I just checked. |
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berraneck
Joined: 24 May 2009 Posts: 972 Location: prague, czech republic
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Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 9:50 am Post subject: |
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berraneck wrote:
20°C is standard temperature, and I wouldn´t go below 18°C. I don´t think that warming the process is a big deal, you just need a bucket full of tempered water - for the time you develop, the temperature won´t change to affect the precision of developing _________________ equipment doesn´t count, good photographs do |
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ForenSeil
Joined: 15 Apr 2011 Posts: 2726 Location: Kiel, Germany.
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Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 3:39 pm Post subject: |
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ForenSeil wrote:
Slightly colder is better than slightly warmer imho, as in my experience slightly warmer produces more grain with lower tonal range while colder only influences tonal range and microcontrast. But that might differ from film to film.
My suggestion: Simply try it and see if you like the results.
Here two examples with cold (don't remember how cold exactly, maybe 16°C) (Pa)Rodinal and Superpan 200:
_________________ I'm not a collector, I'm a tester
My camera: Sony A7+Zeiss Sonnar 55/1.8
Current favourite lenses (I have many more):
A few macro-Tominons, Samyang 12/2.8, Noritsu 50.7/9.5, Rodagon 105/5.6 on bellows, Samyang 135/2, Nikon ED 180/2.8, Leitz Elmar-R 250/4, Celestron C8 2000mm F10
Most wanted: Samyang 24/1.4, Samyang 35/1.4, Nikon 200/2 ED
My Blog: http://picturechemistry.own-blog.com/
(German language)
Last edited by ForenSeil on Sun Sep 30, 2012 10:09 pm; edited 3 times in total |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 4:04 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
I like these coldies... excellent both! _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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davidbrat
Joined: 18 Aug 2009 Posts: 117 Location: Between France & Spain...
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Posted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 10:00 am Post subject: |
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davidbrat wrote:
Ilford temperature compensation chart don't go below 18°. I think there's a risk of uneven development if it's too cold, if I were you i would try to get 18° at least. |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 12:49 pm Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
The important thing is that the chemicals are of correct temperature (from 20° to 24° C depending on what chemicals) when you start developing.
Then developing times are usually short enough to not produce a significant change in temperature during the process (unless you make stand development of course...)
A room temperature of 18° C should not cause any problem at all for normal developing times of 5 to 10-12 minutes.
Don't forget that all baths *and* the washing water should be at the same temperature of the developer. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
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Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5043 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 8:17 pm Post subject: |
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kansalliskala wrote:
Orio wrote: |
Don't forget that all baths *and* the washing water |
Thanks, this one didn't remember, water is around 8-12 C maybe. _________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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marty
Joined: 09 Apr 2009 Posts: 767 Location: Italy
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Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 11:07 am Post subject: |
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marty wrote:
I concur, 18°C should be fine as long as it doesn't drop further. That said my advice is warm it up just in case, that should make up for a drop and it drops fast. The crucial thing is being consistent, once you establish a method that works just go along that way.
Cheers, M. _________________ Canon FD
Bodies: AT-1, A-1, T-90
Lenses: nFD 20mm f2.8, 24 f2.8, 28 f2.8, 35 f2, FD 50 f1.8 S.C., 85 f1.8, 100 f2.8, 135 f2.8, 200 f4, 300 f4
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