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Hexaddict
Joined: 30 Apr 2012 Posts: 81 Location: Carbonne / SW France
Expire: 2014-05-31
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Posted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 9:45 am Post subject: Fujinon EBC 28mm |
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Hexaddict wrote:
I found this lens that seems not very common, at least on classifieds like ebay. Is the extra EBC coating worth it ?
Do you know how how to keep the button pushed (dont know the exact word in english)
_________________ Didier
Oly OM-D E-M1 + AF 12-40 f2.8 + AF pana 7-14 f4
______________________________
Hexanon: 21/4 24/2.8 28/3.5 40/1.8 50/1.4 55/3.5 135/2.5 135/3.2 200/4 65-135/4
Helios: 44M-4 135/2.8
Industar: M-61 53/2.8
CZJ: tessar 50/2.8
Fujinon: 55/2.2 X-fuji 50/1.6
CZ: Planar 50/1.8 (singapore) Planar HFT 50/1.8
Rolleinar: 35/2.8 85/2.8 105/2.8
Yashinon 45mm 1.4 (mod)
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Minolfan
Joined: 30 Dec 2008 Posts: 3439 Location: Netherlands
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Posted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 9:53 am Post subject: |
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Minolfan wrote:
The easyest way is an adapter with flange, that pushes the pin in permanently in use.
I suppose you don't talk about a M42 film camera, that is made for working with this system. |
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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5044 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 9:53 am Post subject: Re: Fujinon EBC 28mm |
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kansalliskala wrote:
Hexaddict wrote: |
Do you know how how to keep the button pushed (dont know the exact word in english) |
That is a tricky one because it keeps tension all time.
here is the problem:
http://forum.mflenses.com/m42-fujinon-questions-t21037.html
so some glue-solutions are not very good I think
(others have other opinions .. )
I think best is to get an adapter with a flange that presses the pin.
BUT: keeping it under tension can damage the aperture springs _________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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Ghost2501
Joined: 26 Apr 2012 Posts: 102 Location: Belgium
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Posted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 9:58 am Post subject: |
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Ghost2501 wrote:
Epoxy ? _________________ Nikon D7000 + Sony NEX-3 + Vivitar 24mm f2, Rexagon 28mm f2.8, Pentor 35mm f2.8, Konica Hexanon 50mm f1.4 + Nikkor 50mm f1.8 AI, Helios 44M 58mm f2, Jupiter-9 85mm f2, Helios 100mm f2 from T3C-2, Kaleinar 100mm f2.8, Makinon 135mm f2.8, Vivitar Series 1 70-210mm f3.5 |
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Hexaddict
Joined: 30 Apr 2012 Posts: 81 Location: Carbonne / SW France
Expire: 2014-05-31
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Posted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 10:10 am Post subject: |
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Hexaddict wrote:
Thanks for the info ! _________________ Didier
Oly OM-D E-M1 + AF 12-40 f2.8 + AF pana 7-14 f4
______________________________
Hexanon: 21/4 24/2.8 28/3.5 40/1.8 50/1.4 55/3.5 135/2.5 135/3.2 200/4 65-135/4
Helios: 44M-4 135/2.8
Industar: M-61 53/2.8
CZJ: tessar 50/2.8
Fujinon: 55/2.2 X-fuji 50/1.6
CZ: Planar 50/1.8 (singapore) Planar HFT 50/1.8
Rolleinar: 35/2.8 85/2.8 105/2.8
Yashinon 45mm 1.4 (mod)
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Aanything
Joined: 27 Aug 2011 Posts: 2187 Location: Piacenza, Italy
Expire: 2014-05-30
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Posted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 12:46 pm Post subject: |
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Aanything wrote:
The lens is good, at least, i like it a lot, despite being quite slow.
For keeping the pin pressed I usually disassemble the back of the lens (this is possible for this lens and with all the fujinons I've seen, except the 1.8/55) and wrap a part of the metal pin with a thin strip adhesive tape, so that it remains always pressed.
You may need some tries before getting a strip of the right width, but it's a really easy operation, and it's more easily reversable than glue.
You'll probably encounter another problem using this lens with an adapter: if you look on the back of the aperture ring, you'll find a little protruding part: this was used to activate auto aperture mechanism.
This part won't allow the lens to be totally screwed in an adapter, so you'll have either to dig a slot around about half of the adapter to make room for this little part, or sand this part down with 5 seconds of dremel. _________________ C&C and editing of my pics are always welcome
Samples from my lenses
My gear
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Pancolart
Joined: 04 Feb 2008 Posts: 3705 Location: Slovenia, EU
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 1:51 pm Post subject: |
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Pancolart wrote:
You can destroy a crappy Canon FD zoom lens mount and you'll find there at least 2x spring inside. Then you do as Aanything says with little difference: put spring (cut to correct length) on the pin (part that is inside lens of course). This way pin won't be firmly fixed and there will be constant pressure. With some lenses that is the only way to do it since firm / stuck pin prohibits all aperture settings.
If i borrow above photo (pins allways have thick part on bottom so that is changed):
_________________ ---------------------------------
The Peculiar Apparatus Of Victorian Steampunk Photography: 100+ Genuine Steampunk Camera Designs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B92829NS |
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Arkku
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 1416 Location: Helsinki, Finland
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Posted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 3:47 pm Post subject: |
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Arkku wrote:
All other M42 EBC Fujinons except the 55mm f/1.8 can be easily converted to manual aperture by opening three screws around the rear, opening the rear of the lens, slipping a piece of hollow plastic tube (cut from a cotton swab, aka q-tip) over the aperture pin, and then reassembling. The 28mm f/3.5 is easier to dis- and reassemble if you unscrew the rear element group first (use the two circular holes around the rear element), but if I recall correctly this is not strictly necessary.
If the aperture pin seems hard to get out for inserting the plastic, you can unscrew the little lever holding it in, and then replace it after re-inserting the pin. When reassembling the lens, there are one or two pins on the lens side and one or two “forks” on the mount side, that need to be hooked into one another for the aperture ring to function. That's basically the only tricky part.
This modification is completely reversible, so please don't glue the pin or anything like that. |
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