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My first roll of Kodak Ektar...Awesome! :D
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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 10:53 am    Post subject: My first roll of Kodak Ektar...Awesome! :D Reply with quote

As a few of you know, I have been on a film kick since just after Christmas, culminating in me recently acquiring over 200 rolls of various types of film.

On Sunday of this last w/e I finally got out for a short break in the rainy weather, to go and shoot my first test roll of Kodak Ektar... and I have to say Iam very happy with the results of this spectacularly vibrant film.
I was worried that maybe my cams metering was slightly off since the images still seemed a little bright to me. But I read in a post in here recently that store dev scans have a tendency for being brighter than they should. Any tips for compensating for this would be great. It was actually an overcast day with erratic showers.

Here are a few of my test shots anyhow. I hope you enjoy. Very Happy

1.)


2.)


3.)


4.)


5.)


6.)


7.)


8.)


9)


10)


11.)


12.)


13.)


14.)


15.)


16.) I'm starting to notice barrel distortion in both my Minolta 35-80 & 35-70 on 35mm film.


17.)


18.)


19.)


20.)


21.)


22.)


23.)


PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes its definitely a favorite film of mine. i like the color and depth of it. they make very nice prints as well. ive found it does a little better if you err on the side of slight underexposure as opposed to overexposure.
tony


PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 11:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welcome to the world of new Ektar converts. Great results, Hood.


PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 2:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There you go film shooting is easy init and you have nice shots for proof Wink ....I'm not sure Ektar is for me though as I've heard of exposure tolerance problems and will try 120 Portra 160 next.


PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excalibur wrote:
I'm not sure Ektar is for me though as I've heard of exposure tolerance problems


It certainly tolerated me doing "sunny 16s" on my Zeiss Contina - I got 36 out of 36 decent exposures. Very Happy

I am currently trying some Superior 200. I don't know if I will ever be loyal to any one film because it is too much fun trying out new stuff, but I hope that Ektar doesn't disappear due to Kodak's difficulties.


PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 3:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nice series!


PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 3:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

skida wrote:
Excalibur wrote:
I'm not sure Ektar is for me though as I've heard of exposure tolerance problems


It certainly tolerated me doing "sunny 16s" on my Zeiss Contina - I got 36 out of 36 decent exposures. Very Happy

I am currently trying some Superior 200. I don't know if I will ever be loyal to any one film because it is too much fun trying out new stuff, but I hope that Ektar doesn't disappear due to Kodak's difficulties.


Well if you got 100 rolls of one brand for peanuts you might be more loyal Wink Why not try Reala 100 asa and see what you think compared to Ektar.


PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 11:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers guys. I like this film too. So much vibrance.

I will have to try your suggestion rbelyell and give it a -1 on the next roll, or do you think -0.5 is enough?

I'm going to try some 160s & 160c too, to see how they compare, I have some portra 160 too, amongst a few others.

But for now I have a tiny stockpile of a few films, like ektar, as I believe it will not be available soon. Sad


PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 11:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rbelyell wrote:
yes its definitely a favorite film of mine. i like the color and depth of it. they make very nice prints as well. ive found it does a little better if you err on the side of slight underexposure as opposed to overexposure.
tony


I've only just started doing my own prints in the last 2 weeks.
I have been thoroughly enjoying it actually. 'cause I can get them just how I want.
I just tried a print of the first shot last night. You are not wrong, this ektar does print nice. Very Happy


PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 11:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hood wrote:

I've only just started doing my own prints in the last 2 weeks.


Chemical or digital?


PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 11:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry only digital Orio.
Iam not versed in the analogue processing arts I'm afraid.
But I still find it satisfying producing a good print to give to someone. Very Happy


PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2012 11:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My faves are 11, 12, 21, and 23. Nice series!


PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2012 2:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rbelyell wrote:
yes its definitely a favorite film of mine. i like the color and depth of it. they make very nice prints as well. ive found it does a little better if you err on the side of slight underexposure as opposed to overexposure.
tony

That's a nice tip, Tony. I love the blues (sky), and overall look of Ektar, and the word "slight" comes to mind for underexposing; just to bring more depth perhaps, and to deepen those blues. Maybe some kind of filter? Hmmmm...

Nice shots Hood!!


PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2012 2:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hood wrote:

I will have to try your suggestion rbelyell and give it a -1 on the next roll, or do you think -0.5 is enough?


Be careful when underexposing colour negative film. It's not like slides. The dreaded veiled shadows are just around the corner.
Keep in mind that for colour negatives, you always expose for the shadows (as opposed to slides where you expose for the highlights).
If you want a denser final image/print from a colour negative, the best way is always to increase density when printing/scanning, not when taking the photo.
Consider the colour negative as a medium, not as the final object. Do just like you do with RAW. You don't take a photo in RAW with the exposure set for the final result.
In RAW, you take the photo with the exposure optimized for the histogram, in order to obtain the most possible amount of useable data. The aesthetic decision is delayed to the print/output stage.
Colour negative should be used with the same mind.


PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 9:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree with Orio concerning the exposure of color negative film; there is a latitude to pull detail out of highlights. I believe that I read recently that Ektar is around 4 stops of latitude. But I have a conundrum, or puzzle. As Orio says, the latitude is for "prints". So, if prints are made from the film (and the exposure compensated), and then, the prints are scanned to digital, hopefully a large range of dark and light tones are present. But if a film negative is scanned directly, then the highlights are clipped and there isn't much one can do there. Film is designed with those latitudes in the highlight region, whereas, a digital sensor is the opposite; one can pull detail from the shadows.
So, the puzzle is best solved by scanning prints, I think?


PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 11:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

aspen wrote:
I agree with Orio concerning the exposure of color negative film; there is a latitude to pull detail out of highlights. I believe that I read recently that Ektar is around 4 stops of latitude. But I have a conundrum, or puzzle. As Orio says, the latitude is for "prints". So, if prints are made from the film (and the exposure compensated), and then, the prints are scanned to digital, hopefully a large range of dark and light tones are present. But if a film negative is scanned directly, then the highlights are clipped and there isn't much one can do there. Film is designed with those latitudes in the highlight region, whereas, a digital sensor is the opposite; one can pull detail from the shadows.
So, the puzzle is best solved by scanning prints, I think?


Well shit in and shit out....... if you scan a 4X6" print and expand it on your monitor to say 24" it would look terrible...in the old days it was "expose for the shadows and let the highlights take care of themselves" so in the darkroom you stopped parts of the print from being over exposed by a dodging tool (the technical name for your hand or a piece of card Wink ). So a problem with highlights and shadows in a shot? a graduated ND filter would help in some cases?


PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 2:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excalibur wrote:
a graduated ND filter would help in some cases?

yes, I think filters are the key, for me at least, because I'm not planning on developing prints. My mind just can't go there anymore Rolling Eyes Even though I like keeping my feet in analog (sometimes up to my knees), the digital process is now integrated into this, at some point along the way. The photos are either viewed on screen, or printed via inkjet. So, getting a complete tonal range in a photo, while shooting film, needs to be real old school; reading the meter/scene, knowing the limitations of the film,and using an appropriate filter to "cheat the scene".