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Hood
Joined: 26 Jan 2012 Posts: 469 Location: Perth, Australia
Expire: 2013-09-16
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Posted: Wed May 02, 2012 10:53 am Post subject: My first roll of Kodak Ektar...Awesome! :D |
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Hood wrote:
As a few of you know, I have been on a film kick since just after Christmas, culminating in me recently acquiring over 200 rolls of various types of film.
On Sunday of this last w/e I finally got out for a short break in the rainy weather, to go and shoot my first test roll of Kodak Ektar... and I have to say Iam very happy with the results of this spectacularly vibrant film.
I was worried that maybe my cams metering was slightly off since the images still seemed a little bright to me. But I read in a post in here recently that store dev scans have a tendency for being brighter than they should. Any tips for compensating for this would be great. It was actually an overcast day with erratic showers.
Here are a few of my test shots anyhow. I hope you enjoy.
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16.) I'm starting to notice barrel distortion in both my Minolta 35-80 & 35-70 on 35mm film.
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_________________
-Josh
Currently shooting:
Digital:Sony Nex-5, Nex-5n, Pentax KX, Pentax K30 and Fuji JZ100
Film: Minolta x700, Contax 137MD, Chinon Memotron, Minolta 500si, Minolta 700si, Canon Ex-auto, Minolta 35DL weathermatic, Pentax espio 738, Minolta Himatic-G, Olympus Trip 35, Elixa Reflex-B, Pentax MZ-60
Lens Collection:Slr Magic 28/2.8, Slr Magic 35/1.7, Minolta Rokkor 45/2, Minolta Rokkor 50/1.4, Minolta W-Rokkor-sg 28/3.5, Minolta 35-70/3.5, Minolta Rokkor-PF 55/1.9, Minolta W.Rokkor 28/3.5, Monolta MD 50/2*2, Minolta 50/1.7, Minolta zealox bellows, Minolta e.Rokkor 75/4.5, Sony 18-55 3.5/5.6, Sony 16/2.8, Asahi Smc Takumar 55/1.8, Asahi Smc Takumar 50/1.5, Meyer Gerlitz Dimoplan 50/2.8,Meyer Gerlitz Orestegon 50/1.8, Tamron 35/2.8, Tamron 70-220/4, Tamron aspherical 28-200 3.8-5.6, Seimar 28/2.8, Aus Jena Tessar 50/2.8, Industar 50/3.5, Industar 26m 50/2.8, Industar 61 55/2.8, Industar 69 28/2.8, Carenar 45/2.8, Pentacon electric 50/1.8, Pentacon 30/3.5, Pentacon 29/2.8, Helios 44m 58/2, Miida 35/2.8, Miida 75-205/3.8, Cosina 28/2.8, Kenlock 135/2.8, Kenlock 35/2.8, Kenlock Mc-tor 28/2.8, Jupiter 8 50/2, Vivitar 28-85 3.5-4.5 macro, Vivitar 28-80 3.5-5.6 macro, Exacta 35-70 3.5-4.8 macro, Sigma 35-70 2.8-4, Sigma 100-200 4.5, SamYong 18-28 4-4.5, Photax-Pharagon 35/2.8, Travenar 35/2.8, Travenar 50/1.8, Tokina 70-210 4-5.6, Tokina 28/2.8, Promura 200/3.5, Sirius 20-200 3.9, Soligor 200/3.5, Canon FL 50/1.8, Canon FD 35-70 3.5-4.5, Auto Focal 75-200/4.5, Zenit Zenitar 50/2,Tokina353 35-300mm(KX), Pentax 18-55(KX), Pentax 35-80(KX), Sigma 14mm F2.8(KX), Sigma 70-200mm(KX), Sigma 24-70mm(KX), Pentax 35-135 macro(KX), plus I have a few in for service right now and I'm always collecting more...
It's been a few years now, I need to sit down and update this list...it has grown considerably! haha
My Blog:
http://www.joshpereraphoto.com/
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rbelyell
Joined: 13 Oct 2009 Posts: 4269 Location: somewhere in the mountains of central NY
Expire: 2014-01-31
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Posted: Wed May 02, 2012 11:44 am Post subject: |
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rbelyell wrote:
yes its definitely a favorite film of mine. i like the color and depth of it. they make very nice prints as well. ive found it does a little better if you err on the side of slight underexposure as opposed to overexposure.
tony _________________ Epson RD1 + Elmarit 21/2.8; Summarit 50/1.5; Summarit 75/2.5; Elmar-c 90/4; Sankyo Komura 135/2.8, Hektor 135/4.5; Braun Paxina 29 6x6; Photax Boyer Paris; Holga 120 Pano
GREAT STUFF FOR SALE:
Contax T
Hasselblad XPan + 45/4, 90/4
Kodak Retina Reflex IV + full set of Schneider Krueznach lenses
Mercury 2 half frame 35mm
Kodak Pro slr/n
Fuji GM670+100/3.5+65/8!
Praktisix 6x6 medium format + ZeissBiometar 120/2.8
Bessa T 101 Anniversary Edition in Navy Blue
Mamiya Six Folder with Zuiko 75/3.5
Adaptall: Tamron SP 28-85 macro
Cameras: Canon IX
PM for more complete descriptions/pix. All in great shape!
_________________________
'buy me a drink, sing me a song,
take me as i come 'cause i can't stay long' |
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skida
Joined: 02 Mar 2012 Posts: 1826 Location: North East England
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Posted: Wed May 02, 2012 11:57 am Post subject: |
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skida wrote:
Welcome to the world of new Ektar converts. Great results, Hood. |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Wed May 02, 2012 2:44 pm Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
There you go film shooting is easy init and you have nice shots for proof ....I'm not sure Ektar is for me though as I've heard of exposure tolerance problems and will try 120 Portra 160 next. _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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skida
Joined: 02 Mar 2012 Posts: 1826 Location: North East England
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Posted: Wed May 02, 2012 3:13 pm Post subject: |
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skida wrote:
Excalibur wrote: |
I'm not sure Ektar is for me though as I've heard of exposure tolerance problems |
It certainly tolerated me doing "sunny 16s" on my Zeiss Contina - I got 36 out of 36 decent exposures.
I am currently trying some Superior 200. I don't know if I will ever be loyal to any one film because it is too much fun trying out new stuff, but I hope that Ektar doesn't disappear due to Kodak's difficulties. |
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poilu
Joined: 26 Aug 2007 Posts: 10472 Location: Greece
Expire: 2019-08-29
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Posted: Wed May 02, 2012 3:21 pm Post subject: |
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poilu wrote:
nice series! _________________ T* |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Wed May 02, 2012 3:34 pm Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
skida wrote: |
Excalibur wrote: |
I'm not sure Ektar is for me though as I've heard of exposure tolerance problems |
It certainly tolerated me doing "sunny 16s" on my Zeiss Contina - I got 36 out of 36 decent exposures.
I am currently trying some Superior 200. I don't know if I will ever be loyal to any one film because it is too much fun trying out new stuff, but I hope that Ektar doesn't disappear due to Kodak's difficulties. |
Well if you got 100 rolls of one brand for peanuts you might be more loyal Why not try Reala 100 asa and see what you think compared to Ektar. _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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Hood
Joined: 26 Jan 2012 Posts: 469 Location: Perth, Australia
Expire: 2013-09-16
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Posted: Wed May 02, 2012 11:02 pm Post subject: |
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Hood wrote:
Cheers guys. I like this film too. So much vibrance.
I will have to try your suggestion rbelyell and give it a -1 on the next roll, or do you think -0.5 is enough?
I'm going to try some 160s & 160c too, to see how they compare, I have some portra 160 too, amongst a few others.
But for now I have a tiny stockpile of a few films, like ektar, as I believe it will not be available soon. _________________
-Josh
Currently shooting:
Digital:Sony Nex-5, Nex-5n, Pentax KX, Pentax K30 and Fuji JZ100
Film: Minolta x700, Contax 137MD, Chinon Memotron, Minolta 500si, Minolta 700si, Canon Ex-auto, Minolta 35DL weathermatic, Pentax espio 738, Minolta Himatic-G, Olympus Trip 35, Elixa Reflex-B, Pentax MZ-60
Lens Collection:Slr Magic 28/2.8, Slr Magic 35/1.7, Minolta Rokkor 45/2, Minolta Rokkor 50/1.4, Minolta W-Rokkor-sg 28/3.5, Minolta 35-70/3.5, Minolta Rokkor-PF 55/1.9, Minolta W.Rokkor 28/3.5, Monolta MD 50/2*2, Minolta 50/1.7, Minolta zealox bellows, Minolta e.Rokkor 75/4.5, Sony 18-55 3.5/5.6, Sony 16/2.8, Asahi Smc Takumar 55/1.8, Asahi Smc Takumar 50/1.5, Meyer Gerlitz Dimoplan 50/2.8,Meyer Gerlitz Orestegon 50/1.8, Tamron 35/2.8, Tamron 70-220/4, Tamron aspherical 28-200 3.8-5.6, Seimar 28/2.8, Aus Jena Tessar 50/2.8, Industar 50/3.5, Industar 26m 50/2.8, Industar 61 55/2.8, Industar 69 28/2.8, Carenar 45/2.8, Pentacon electric 50/1.8, Pentacon 30/3.5, Pentacon 29/2.8, Helios 44m 58/2, Miida 35/2.8, Miida 75-205/3.8, Cosina 28/2.8, Kenlock 135/2.8, Kenlock 35/2.8, Kenlock Mc-tor 28/2.8, Jupiter 8 50/2, Vivitar 28-85 3.5-4.5 macro, Vivitar 28-80 3.5-5.6 macro, Exacta 35-70 3.5-4.8 macro, Sigma 35-70 2.8-4, Sigma 100-200 4.5, SamYong 18-28 4-4.5, Photax-Pharagon 35/2.8, Travenar 35/2.8, Travenar 50/1.8, Tokina 70-210 4-5.6, Tokina 28/2.8, Promura 200/3.5, Sirius 20-200 3.9, Soligor 200/3.5, Canon FL 50/1.8, Canon FD 35-70 3.5-4.5, Auto Focal 75-200/4.5, Zenit Zenitar 50/2,Tokina353 35-300mm(KX), Pentax 18-55(KX), Pentax 35-80(KX), Sigma 14mm F2.8(KX), Sigma 70-200mm(KX), Sigma 24-70mm(KX), Pentax 35-135 macro(KX), plus I have a few in for service right now and I'm always collecting more...
It's been a few years now, I need to sit down and update this list...it has grown considerably! haha
My Blog:
http://www.joshpereraphoto.com/
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Hood
Joined: 26 Jan 2012 Posts: 469 Location: Perth, Australia
Expire: 2013-09-16
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Posted: Thu May 03, 2012 11:42 pm Post subject: |
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Hood wrote:
rbelyell wrote: |
yes its definitely a favorite film of mine. i like the color and depth of it. they make very nice prints as well. ive found it does a little better if you err on the side of slight underexposure as opposed to overexposure.
tony |
I've only just started doing my own prints in the last 2 weeks.
I have been thoroughly enjoying it actually. 'cause I can get them just how I want.
I just tried a print of the first shot last night. You are not wrong, this ektar does print nice. _________________
-Josh
Currently shooting:
Digital:Sony Nex-5, Nex-5n, Pentax KX, Pentax K30 and Fuji JZ100
Film: Minolta x700, Contax 137MD, Chinon Memotron, Minolta 500si, Minolta 700si, Canon Ex-auto, Minolta 35DL weathermatic, Pentax espio 738, Minolta Himatic-G, Olympus Trip 35, Elixa Reflex-B, Pentax MZ-60
Lens Collection:Slr Magic 28/2.8, Slr Magic 35/1.7, Minolta Rokkor 45/2, Minolta Rokkor 50/1.4, Minolta W-Rokkor-sg 28/3.5, Minolta 35-70/3.5, Minolta Rokkor-PF 55/1.9, Minolta W.Rokkor 28/3.5, Monolta MD 50/2*2, Minolta 50/1.7, Minolta zealox bellows, Minolta e.Rokkor 75/4.5, Sony 18-55 3.5/5.6, Sony 16/2.8, Asahi Smc Takumar 55/1.8, Asahi Smc Takumar 50/1.5, Meyer Gerlitz Dimoplan 50/2.8,Meyer Gerlitz Orestegon 50/1.8, Tamron 35/2.8, Tamron 70-220/4, Tamron aspherical 28-200 3.8-5.6, Seimar 28/2.8, Aus Jena Tessar 50/2.8, Industar 50/3.5, Industar 26m 50/2.8, Industar 61 55/2.8, Industar 69 28/2.8, Carenar 45/2.8, Pentacon electric 50/1.8, Pentacon 30/3.5, Pentacon 29/2.8, Helios 44m 58/2, Miida 35/2.8, Miida 75-205/3.8, Cosina 28/2.8, Kenlock 135/2.8, Kenlock 35/2.8, Kenlock Mc-tor 28/2.8, Jupiter 8 50/2, Vivitar 28-85 3.5-4.5 macro, Vivitar 28-80 3.5-5.6 macro, Exacta 35-70 3.5-4.8 macro, Sigma 35-70 2.8-4, Sigma 100-200 4.5, SamYong 18-28 4-4.5, Photax-Pharagon 35/2.8, Travenar 35/2.8, Travenar 50/1.8, Tokina 70-210 4-5.6, Tokina 28/2.8, Promura 200/3.5, Sirius 20-200 3.9, Soligor 200/3.5, Canon FL 50/1.8, Canon FD 35-70 3.5-4.5, Auto Focal 75-200/4.5, Zenit Zenitar 50/2,Tokina353 35-300mm(KX), Pentax 18-55(KX), Pentax 35-80(KX), Sigma 14mm F2.8(KX), Sigma 70-200mm(KX), Sigma 24-70mm(KX), Pentax 35-135 macro(KX), plus I have a few in for service right now and I'm always collecting more...
It's been a few years now, I need to sit down and update this list...it has grown considerably! haha
My Blog:
http://www.joshpereraphoto.com/
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Thu May 03, 2012 11:50 pm Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
Hood wrote: |
I've only just started doing my own prints in the last 2 weeks. |
Chemical or digital? _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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Hood
Joined: 26 Jan 2012 Posts: 469 Location: Perth, Australia
Expire: 2013-09-16
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Posted: Thu May 03, 2012 11:53 pm Post subject: |
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Hood wrote:
Sorry only digital Orio.
Iam not versed in the analogue processing arts I'm afraid.
But I still find it satisfying producing a good print to give to someone. _________________
-Josh
Currently shooting:
Digital:Sony Nex-5, Nex-5n, Pentax KX, Pentax K30 and Fuji JZ100
Film: Minolta x700, Contax 137MD, Chinon Memotron, Minolta 500si, Minolta 700si, Canon Ex-auto, Minolta 35DL weathermatic, Pentax espio 738, Minolta Himatic-G, Olympus Trip 35, Elixa Reflex-B, Pentax MZ-60
Lens Collection:Slr Magic 28/2.8, Slr Magic 35/1.7, Minolta Rokkor 45/2, Minolta Rokkor 50/1.4, Minolta W-Rokkor-sg 28/3.5, Minolta 35-70/3.5, Minolta Rokkor-PF 55/1.9, Minolta W.Rokkor 28/3.5, Monolta MD 50/2*2, Minolta 50/1.7, Minolta zealox bellows, Minolta e.Rokkor 75/4.5, Sony 18-55 3.5/5.6, Sony 16/2.8, Asahi Smc Takumar 55/1.8, Asahi Smc Takumar 50/1.5, Meyer Gerlitz Dimoplan 50/2.8,Meyer Gerlitz Orestegon 50/1.8, Tamron 35/2.8, Tamron 70-220/4, Tamron aspherical 28-200 3.8-5.6, Seimar 28/2.8, Aus Jena Tessar 50/2.8, Industar 50/3.5, Industar 26m 50/2.8, Industar 61 55/2.8, Industar 69 28/2.8, Carenar 45/2.8, Pentacon electric 50/1.8, Pentacon 30/3.5, Pentacon 29/2.8, Helios 44m 58/2, Miida 35/2.8, Miida 75-205/3.8, Cosina 28/2.8, Kenlock 135/2.8, Kenlock 35/2.8, Kenlock Mc-tor 28/2.8, Jupiter 8 50/2, Vivitar 28-85 3.5-4.5 macro, Vivitar 28-80 3.5-5.6 macro, Exacta 35-70 3.5-4.8 macro, Sigma 35-70 2.8-4, Sigma 100-200 4.5, SamYong 18-28 4-4.5, Photax-Pharagon 35/2.8, Travenar 35/2.8, Travenar 50/1.8, Tokina 70-210 4-5.6, Tokina 28/2.8, Promura 200/3.5, Sirius 20-200 3.9, Soligor 200/3.5, Canon FL 50/1.8, Canon FD 35-70 3.5-4.5, Auto Focal 75-200/4.5, Zenit Zenitar 50/2,Tokina353 35-300mm(KX), Pentax 18-55(KX), Pentax 35-80(KX), Sigma 14mm F2.8(KX), Sigma 70-200mm(KX), Sigma 24-70mm(KX), Pentax 35-135 macro(KX), plus I have a few in for service right now and I'm always collecting more...
It's been a few years now, I need to sit down and update this list...it has grown considerably! haha
My Blog:
http://www.joshpereraphoto.com/
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Katastrofo
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 10405 Location: USA
Expire: 2013-11-19
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Posted: Fri May 04, 2012 11:31 pm Post subject: |
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Katastrofo wrote:
My faves are 11, 12, 21, and 23. Nice series! |
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aspen
Joined: 15 Dec 2010 Posts: 307 Location: Maryland, USA
Expire: 2014-02-20
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Posted: Thu May 10, 2012 2:03 pm Post subject: |
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aspen wrote:
rbelyell wrote: |
yes its definitely a favorite film of mine. i like the color and depth of it. they make very nice prints as well. ive found it does a little better if you err on the side of slight underexposure as opposed to overexposure.
tony |
That's a nice tip, Tony. I love the blues (sky), and overall look of Ektar, and the word "slight" comes to mind for underexposing; just to bring more depth perhaps, and to deepen those blues. Maybe some kind of filter? Hmmmm...
Nice shots Hood!! _________________ Cameras; Sony Nex5n Lenses; Konica Hexanons; 21mm f2.8, 40mm f1,8, 50mm f1.4, 50mmf1.7,57mm f1.4, 100mm f2.8, 135mm f3.2, 200mm f4, MC Helios 77M-4 50mm f1.8, Jupiter 8 50 f2, Super Takumar 85mm f1.9, Vivitar Series 1 90mm f2.5 (Macro), Steinheil Munchen Culminar 85mm f2.8, Steinheil Munchen Exagon 35mm f2.8, Jupiter 37A 135mm, Astra Berlin 135mm f3.5, Angenieux 180mm f4 , Tair 3-PhS 300mm f4.5 |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Thu May 10, 2012 2:36 pm Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
Hood wrote: |
I will have to try your suggestion rbelyell and give it a -1 on the next roll, or do you think -0.5 is enough? |
Be careful when underexposing colour negative film. It's not like slides. The dreaded veiled shadows are just around the corner.
Keep in mind that for colour negatives, you always expose for the shadows (as opposed to slides where you expose for the highlights).
If you want a denser final image/print from a colour negative, the best way is always to increase density when printing/scanning, not when taking the photo.
Consider the colour negative as a medium, not as the final object. Do just like you do with RAW. You don't take a photo in RAW with the exposure set for the final result.
In RAW, you take the photo with the exposure optimized for the histogram, in order to obtain the most possible amount of useable data. The aesthetic decision is delayed to the print/output stage.
Colour negative should be used with the same mind. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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aspen
Joined: 15 Dec 2010 Posts: 307 Location: Maryland, USA
Expire: 2014-02-20
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Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 9:24 am Post subject: |
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aspen wrote:
I agree with Orio concerning the exposure of color negative film; there is a latitude to pull detail out of highlights. I believe that I read recently that Ektar is around 4 stops of latitude. But I have a conundrum, or puzzle. As Orio says, the latitude is for "prints". So, if prints are made from the film (and the exposure compensated), and then, the prints are scanned to digital, hopefully a large range of dark and light tones are present. But if a film negative is scanned directly, then the highlights are clipped and there isn't much one can do there. Film is designed with those latitudes in the highlight region, whereas, a digital sensor is the opposite; one can pull detail from the shadows.
So, the puzzle is best solved by scanning prints, I think? _________________ Cameras; Sony Nex5n Lenses; Konica Hexanons; 21mm f2.8, 40mm f1,8, 50mm f1.4, 50mmf1.7,57mm f1.4, 100mm f2.8, 135mm f3.2, 200mm f4, MC Helios 77M-4 50mm f1.8, Jupiter 8 50 f2, Super Takumar 85mm f1.9, Vivitar Series 1 90mm f2.5 (Macro), Steinheil Munchen Culminar 85mm f2.8, Steinheil Munchen Exagon 35mm f2.8, Jupiter 37A 135mm, Astra Berlin 135mm f3.5, Angenieux 180mm f4 , Tair 3-PhS 300mm f4.5 |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 11:50 am Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
aspen wrote: |
I agree with Orio concerning the exposure of color negative film; there is a latitude to pull detail out of highlights. I believe that I read recently that Ektar is around 4 stops of latitude. But I have a conundrum, or puzzle. As Orio says, the latitude is for "prints". So, if prints are made from the film (and the exposure compensated), and then, the prints are scanned to digital, hopefully a large range of dark and light tones are present. But if a film negative is scanned directly, then the highlights are clipped and there isn't much one can do there. Film is designed with those latitudes in the highlight region, whereas, a digital sensor is the opposite; one can pull detail from the shadows.
So, the puzzle is best solved by scanning prints, I think? |
Well shit in and shit out....... if you scan a 4X6" print and expand it on your monitor to say 24" it would look terrible...in the old days it was "expose for the shadows and let the highlights take care of themselves" so in the darkroom you stopped parts of the print from being over exposed by a dodging tool (the technical name for your hand or a piece of card ). So a problem with highlights and shadows in a shot? a graduated ND filter would help in some cases? _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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aspen
Joined: 15 Dec 2010 Posts: 307 Location: Maryland, USA
Expire: 2014-02-20
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Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 2:14 pm Post subject: |
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aspen wrote:
Excalibur wrote: |
a graduated ND filter would help in some cases? |
yes, I think filters are the key, for me at least, because I'm not planning on developing prints. My mind just can't go there anymore Even though I like keeping my feet in analog (sometimes up to my knees), the digital process is now integrated into this, at some point along the way. The photos are either viewed on screen, or printed via inkjet. So, getting a complete tonal range in a photo, while shooting film, needs to be real old school; reading the meter/scene, knowing the limitations of the film,and using an appropriate filter to "cheat the scene". _________________ Cameras; Sony Nex5n Lenses; Konica Hexanons; 21mm f2.8, 40mm f1,8, 50mm f1.4, 50mmf1.7,57mm f1.4, 100mm f2.8, 135mm f3.2, 200mm f4, MC Helios 77M-4 50mm f1.8, Jupiter 8 50 f2, Super Takumar 85mm f1.9, Vivitar Series 1 90mm f2.5 (Macro), Steinheil Munchen Culminar 85mm f2.8, Steinheil Munchen Exagon 35mm f2.8, Jupiter 37A 135mm, Astra Berlin 135mm f3.5, Angenieux 180mm f4 , Tair 3-PhS 300mm f4.5 |
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