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uhoh7
Joined: 24 Nov 2010 Posts: 1300 Location: Idaho, USA
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Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 10:53 pm Post subject: My new 1956 Rolls Royce....(colordial IIIa) |
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uhoh7 wrote:
I've been craving an old 50 sonnar f/1.5, and thought hey, this body looks not bad.....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230683345245?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
But I did not expect to win, hehe.
Turns out its a 56ish colordial IIIa with a 1937 CZJ 50/1.5
Looks like both may even be genuine!
I know the IIa is the "one" but I had no idea this was basically the M9 of the 50s, and cost the same as a chevy sedan
we'll see what shape it's in next week. _________________ Making MFlenses safe for the letter *L* |
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scsambrook
Joined: 29 Mar 2009 Posts: 2167 Location: Glasgow Scotland
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 9:36 am Post subject: |
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scsambrook wrote:
You did very well there - I guess the vendor put the less-knowledgeable off by listing it as a III rather than a IIIa. Looking at the lens in the pictures, it I wonder if it might be an earlier one than the body. I can't remember for certain if the post-war West German ones lacked the little "ears" on the aperture ring. You'll soon know - _________________ Stephen
Equipment: Pentax DSLR for casual shooting, Lumix G1 and Fuji XE-1 for playing with old lenses, and Leica M8 because I still like the optical rangefinder system. |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 9:47 am Post subject: Re: My new 1956 Rolls Royce....(colordial IIIa) |
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Orio wrote:
uhoh7 wrote: |
I know the IIa is the "one". |
The only difference between the IIa and the IIIa is the light meter on top.
Besides, if there is "a one" in Contax rangefinders, it would be one amongst the I, II or III, which are all pre-war.
The IIa and IIIa are post-war designs and they are different cameras from the II and III, because both all the original
machinery employed and all blueprints in Jena were stolen by the communists, so Oberkochen technicians has to rebuild the
camera by reverse-engineering one of the originals - but they ended up with a different result (both inside and aesthetically).
For instance, the great Biogon 35mm lens can not be mount on the new IIa and IIIa (and neither can it's Russian clone,
the Jupiter-12). _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 12:42 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
I have same camera everything works except lightmeter, if lens has red T mark you bought on half price. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Mos6502
Joined: 20 Jun 2011 Posts: 960 Location: Austin
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Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 2:55 pm Post subject: Re: My new 1956 Rolls Royce....(colordial IIIa) |
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Mos6502 wrote:
Orio wrote: |
uhoh7 wrote: |
I know the IIa is the "one". |
The only difference between the IIa and the IIIa is the light meter on top.
Besides, if there is "a one" in Contax rangefinders, it would be one amongst the I, II or III, which are all pre-war.
The IIa and IIIa are post-war designs and they are different cameras from the II and III, because both all the original
machinery employed and all blueprints in Jena were stolen by the communists, so Oberkochen technicians has to rebuild the
camera by reverse-engineering one of the originals - but they ended up with a different result (both inside and aesthetically). |
However, the IIa and IIIa are generally considered more robust than their prewar predecessors. Plus a better viewfinder and ever so slightly lighter. I think that's why the IIa is the one people go after. Though I guess from a collector's standpoint the II and III are more interesting. |
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uhoh7
Joined: 24 Nov 2010 Posts: 1300 Location: Idaho, USA
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Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 6:47 pm Post subject: |
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uhoh7 wrote:
scsambrook wrote: |
You did very well there - I guess the vendor put the less-knowledgeable off by listing it as a III rather than a IIIa. Looking at the lens in the pictures, it I wonder if it might be an earlier one than the body. I can't remember for certain if the post-war West German ones lacked the little "ears" on the aperture ring. You'll soon know - |
Yes, I did not realise it when I bid. In fact, I thought: well i hope this is the original lens, then it will be Contax and not a J-3. But some contax guys over at RFF looked it over--thankfully pics are decent, though lens ring only partially visible.
Dexdog: "The lens serial number of 2187512 is consistent with Thiele's book of CZJ lenses, which shows this lens as part of a batch of 3000 5cm/1.5 Sonnars completed December 13, 1937. Your lens looks the same as several pre-WW2 Sonnars that I own- it has the typical heavy chrome finish of CZJ lenses, and does not resemble the J-3, which were in aluminum mounts"
re the body:
"yep, it is real, a color dial Contax IIIa, produced between November 1956 and July 1957. Nice looking camera."
It's been fun to take a crash course on Contax, which I learned about AFTER the nikon RFs, haha
Here is what started it all
I'd been looking for one these for 7 months in LTM, but they go for real money even though many were made
Suddenly one day an ad appeared at a site which offered the above lens for 225 and this for 200
OK I thought, I'll just grab a 20USD adapter and I'm off to the races. I had no idea of the complexity of the contax/nikon RF mounts. The cheap adapters only allow focus for external mounts, not the internal 50s.
But, as you guys prolly already know, there is a guy in Venezulea who makes both nikon and contax adapters to M mount. There was an original adapter made but they are VERY dear. Amedeo happened to have a simple copy which did not have distance scales made with the Nex or 4/3 in mind for a relative cheap price of of 180 (ouch) It works fine with the Nikons, and the contax should be OK (we will see), despite the slight difference in register which means for RF you must have both a contax and a nikon adapter.
The 10.5 is a fine lens
but the 50/1.4 took me aback
It is a fantastic lens, BUT only for close work, say out to about 5m. At infinity the lens is unusable due to softness.
I want one like this for landscapes, I thought and read up. Gradually it became clear the CZJ sonnar 5cm/1.5 was the benchmark 50 from the 30s to the 50s. And since it is usually contax mount, they are not as dear as the LTMs.
Then I learned all about the widespread faking of this lens with J-3s---not that there is anything wrong with a good J-3.
Anyway, this will be my first uncoated lens pre-war lens--if it's OK (we'll see also if it really is uncoated as some from this time did have coatings if I am not mistaken)
And the whole adventure will cause me to shoot film for the first time since the 80's, because, though I have an M6 right in front of me, only the exotic Contax has motivated me to buy some tri-x.
Attila, I read about the one you found: have you been shooting it lately?
WHo around here is using their contax/kievs regularly?
best to all,
Charlie
Worst case: this will make a fantastic prop for portraits, haha _________________ Making MFlenses safe for the letter *L* |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 9:35 pm Post subject: Re: My new 1956 Rolls Royce....(colordial IIIa) |
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Orio wrote:
Mos6502 wrote: |
However, the IIa and IIIa are generally considered more robust than their prewar predecessors. Plus a better viewfinder and ever so slightly lighter. I think that's why the IIa is the one people go after. Though I guess from a collector's standpoint the II and III are more interesting. |
I have both a II and a IIa "coloured" (electronic synchro version), and I see no difference in their viewfinders, except that the IIa's rangefinder vindow is smaller and thus slightly darker. IIa's rangefinder is also positioned closer to the viewfinder, which reduces the telemeter's base. By the way, the viewfinders of both the II and the IIa are surpassed in quality by the viewfinder of the Kiev IV (average Ebay price 20-30 Euros).
As for the robustness, I see no real difference, since the shutter in the IIa is the same type as in the II (vertical blinds type). The other parts of the camera may or may not break depending on mere luck. Actually, when I bought it, my IIa required viewfinder alignment, while the II's viewfinder was perfect.
I think that for use, the possibility of mounting the Biogon 2.8/35 (the best wide angle of its time) overcomes any other consideration of differences. Of course, one must be lucky to be able to own one Biogon 2.8/35, which is not easy... but it's Soviet clone, the Jupiter-12, is an excellent lens too. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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Mos6502
Joined: 20 Jun 2011 Posts: 960 Location: Austin
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Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 5:48 am Post subject: |
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Mos6502 wrote:
I was thinking about the IIa/IIIa's greater eye relief. Also the slightly smaller rangefinder base helps keep fingers out of way. As for reliability, that's just what I heard, that the postwar shutter was stronger. It may or may not be the case, but I've heard this expressed a few times. |
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uhoh7
Joined: 24 Nov 2010 Posts: 1300 Location: Idaho, USA
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Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 8:40 am Post subject: |
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uhoh7 wrote:
Great Comments
I think it's a 50% chance at best this copy could be a troublefree shooter, but you guys remind me of the super bargin kiev. Ironic the once outlandishly expensive III can be had for 20 euros---and wonderful!
I read the IIIa has some cost cutting somewhere around the viewfinder which makes it prone to misalignment. How will I know it's out of alignment?
When buying a kiev, how old do you want to be? Late 60's maybe? Can you tell easily the age?
That crazy contax specialist in the U.S. has a fantastic site, and is very opinionated, but he really has alot of great pics and info all about the Contax 2 & 3s. He implies the contax design is complex and the russians were dirty---yet the kiev 4 is considered reliable?
http://www.zeisscamera.com/services_buying.shtml
Somewhere in there he goes into great details about the evolution and variations of the 50/1.5. I guess early coated models had very soft inner coatings which you can ruin with tissue paper.
Many great personal sites dedicated to the Contax and Kiev cameras
How many ruples did those kievs cost in the 60s? _________________ Making MFlenses safe for the letter *L* |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 10:14 am Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
I have two kiev4 and with light meter one without that, both more reliable than my contax IIIa speeds are more accurate .
in Kiev light meter works and accurate in contax light meter is dead.
Leica , Contax owners like to spreed their cameras , lenses are better than Russian clones which is bullshit. I did try collapsible elmar and collapsible industar-22 , Industar-22 did produce way better images. I had Leica III body which was dead none of the speeds did work without cla. I bought many Russian clone bodies none of them was dead, most of them has non accurate speeds , but wasn't dead etc etc. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 10:30 am Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
Kiev IV can break, but Contax also can break.
(of course, Kiev IV can break your 20 Euros, Contax II or III your 200 Euros...)
With these old cameras, it's always a gamble. You don't know where they come from,
you don't know who used them and how.
There is nobody that can tell for sure that this Contax model is more reliable than the other,
or that the Kiev will break while the Contax will not, because most depends on the single copy, how it was used.
Those who buy these old cameras must accept that basically they shoot their money in the dark.
They may be lucky or not.
If someone is concerned, I always suggest to buy from a local shop, where you can
face people and where the sellers (the serious ones) check and CLA their used cameras
before putting them for sale. You pay for that, of course. But that might be better than saving
100 Euros in buying a camera from mr. Nobody from Kamchatcka who you will never reach anymore.
(no offense meant to Kamchatcka, I just mention a very faraway place from here). _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 11:05 am Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
If looks everything work when you check it out by your self, three things are still remain unchecked
1) film transport
2) speeds are works , but how slow they are ?
3) light leaks
first two can be solvable with a film roll+ an LCD speed tester from Florin _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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scsambrook
Joined: 29 Mar 2009 Posts: 2167 Location: Glasgow Scotland
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 11:16 am Post subject: |
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scsambrook wrote:
Uhoh7 wrote "It is a fantastic lens, BUT only for close work, say out to about 5m. At infinity the lens is unusable due to softness."
Is that only at really wide apertures? Granted these lenses were almost certainly optimised for distances between 1.5 meters and 15 meters, but your lens should give good clear images at infinity when stopped down to -say - f5.6. _________________ Stephen
Equipment: Pentax DSLR for casual shooting, Lumix G1 and Fuji XE-1 for playing with old lenses, and Leica M8 because I still like the optical rangefinder system. |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 1:34 pm Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
scsambrook wrote: |
Uhoh7 wrote "It is a fantastic lens, BUT only for close work, say out to about 5m. At infinity the lens is unusable due to softness."
Is that only at really wide apertures? Granted these lenses were almost certainly optimised for distances between 1.5 meters and 15 meters, but your lens should give good clear images at infinity when stopped down to -say - f5.6. |
Here's a sample, taken at f/4, from my Zeiss Opton copy of 1950
(the Zeiss Opton (Oberkochen) Sonnar 1.5/50 is slightly different optically from the original Jena pre-war lens).
First whole image then a 100% crop:
#1
#2
As you can see, the sharpness is not mind-blowing, but I would say it's sharp enough.
This lens was made for speed, people who prefer sharpness over speed should go for the terrific Sonnar 2/50.
The colour rainbow that you see on the threads is moire generated by the M9. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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uhoh7
Joined: 24 Nov 2010 Posts: 1300 Location: Idaho, USA
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Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 5:30 pm Post subject: |
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uhoh7 wrote:
scsambrook wrote: |
Uhoh7 wrote "It is a fantastic lens, BUT only for close work, say out to about 5m. At infinity the lens is unusable due to softness."
Is that only at really wide apertures? Granted these lenses were almost certainly optimised for distances between 1.5 meters and 15 meters, but your lens should give good clear images at infinity when stopped down to -say - f5.6. |
For my nikkor 5cm/1.4 it is true at all apertures. I have tested side by side w Canon 50/1.4 LTM and summicron v4. The nikkor produces a recognisable image of a landscape, but detail is very poor. CLose in, as you can see with the cat, it is very sharp. I was very surprised by this, but Dante Stella and others mention the same.
Orio shows good infinity performance from the zeiss oh, i hope mine will be clean!
Orio, it is said the f/2 is very good but f/1.5 sharper at all apertures---not true? I do have a nice J-8, which is good starting around f/4:
_________________ Making MFlenses safe for the letter *L* |
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Sevo
Joined: 22 Aug 2008 Posts: 1189 Location: Frankfurt, Germany
Expire: 2012-12-03
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Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 6:40 pm Post subject: Re: My new 1956 Rolls Royce....(colordial IIIa) |
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Sevo wrote:
[quote="Mos6502"]
Orio wrote: |
However, the IIa and IIIa are generally considered more robust than their prewar predecessors. Plus a better viewfinder and ever so slightly lighter. |
The a models are doubtlessly smoother, when they work, than their predecessors. But their short times have a hard-to-fix tendency to fade or cap, while the II/III (and Kiev) tend to gum up on the long times (which can be trivially fixed by cleaning) - and the abundance of Kievs means that there are trivially available spare parts and replacement shutters for the II/III.
Sevo _________________ Sevo |
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uhoh7
Joined: 24 Nov 2010 Posts: 1300 Location: Idaho, USA
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Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 6:36 am Post subject: |
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uhoh7 wrote:
Arrived today, and while the body really does seem good (test roll loaded).
But on inspection the lens has some real issues. The blades are wet with oil--more than I've seen on any of my 40 odd lenses--but that by itself might be par for the course. However, take a look at this:
It's on the element just under the rear element, and does not appear to be like any seperation I've seen. It's symetrical--a half moon only effecting one side of the element, as if the element has been removed and improperly re-installed.
The lens shows signs of oily elements, but I can't really see the effects of the issue above
shots on APS-C so maybe I'm missing the edges anyway.
thoughts? _________________ Making MFlenses safe for the letter *L* |
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scsambrook
Joined: 29 Mar 2009 Posts: 2167 Location: Glasgow Scotland
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 9:01 am Post subject: |
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scsambrook wrote:
Well, it could be a whole lot worse . . . oily blades are easy to rectify (for a good technician, I mean) and the problem with the rear element/component is probably balsam deterioration, which once again isn't usually a big difficulty for a skilled man (or woman). Regretably, it means you'll have to spend some money but if the lens is free from scratches on the exterior surfaces then it should be a worthwhile exercise. No doubt you'll be able to get an estimate of cost or, even better, a firm quotation for the work needed.
I'm no great Contax expert, but it looks like the lens is older than the body. Is it coated? Your quick test results look pretty good on my small screen here, even with the lens in its present condition. _________________ Stephen
Equipment: Pentax DSLR for casual shooting, Lumix G1 and Fuji XE-1 for playing with old lenses, and Leica M8 because I still like the optical rangefinder system. |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 9:13 am Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
The lens is definitely older than the camera.
The serial number shows that the lens was released on December 13th, 1937.
The camera is post-war, so likely around 1950.
The lens certainly deserves a CLA, even if it costs something. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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uhoh7
Joined: 24 Nov 2010 Posts: 1300 Location: Idaho, USA
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Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 7:04 pm Post subject: |
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uhoh7 wrote:
TY for replies,
Anyone have suggestions for CLA in CONUS? _________________ Making MFlenses safe for the letter *L* |
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uhoh7
Joined: 24 Nov 2010 Posts: 1300 Location: Idaho, USA
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Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 8:12 pm Post subject: |
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uhoh7 wrote:
Better pics
obviously I'm turning the lens about for light and detail _________________ Making MFlenses safe for the letter *L* |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 8:18 pm Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
it looks like an element is displaced and what you see along the edge might be dried glue _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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uhoh7
Joined: 24 Nov 2010 Posts: 1300 Location: Idaho, USA
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Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 5:08 am Post subject: |
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uhoh7 wrote:
Orio wrote: |
it looks like an element is displaced and what you see along the edge might be dried glue |
Exactly what I was thinking---yet most who look at it call it seperation. _________________ Making MFlenses safe for the letter *L* |
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martinsmith99
Joined: 31 Aug 2008 Posts: 6950 Location: S Glos, UK
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2011 6:15 am Post subject: |
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martinsmith99 wrote:
It looks sharp enough to me. I think it's more of a lack of contrast issue. Try a hood and some PP. _________________ Casual attendance these days |
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uhoh7
Joined: 24 Nov 2010 Posts: 1300 Location: Idaho, USA
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Posted: Sat Oct 22, 2011 11:20 pm Post subject: |
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uhoh7 wrote:
Test roll with kodak ektachrome 400
First film I've shot since the 80s. Just scans of 4x6s
below...shutter sticking (@1200)?
and for comparision, here is the same lens on nex-5:
_________________ Making MFlenses safe for the letter *L* |
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