Alpe Cardada above Ascona in crosseyed 3D

[kds315*]

using a 1900 designed, uncoated wide angle lens, which I adapted to use it on my Lumix GH1

(uploading from Ascona actually, since I'm still there...)

[ManualFocus-G]

That's incredible quality for the lens' age. How does the 3D work?

[kds315*]

Indeed, I'm having it on all teh time now...

Seeing 3D Tutorials (not mine!):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvShotHl1As
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XlyG-FQFZYQ

[ManualFocus-G]

My eyes don't seem to work in 3D

[greg]

http://www.3dphoto.net/text/viewing/technique.html

[kds315*]

@Graham: you're missing something then

@Greg: thanks, a very good guide!

[56 DIN]

tried it several times, my right eye produces tears and it doesn´t work...i think it works only for people whose both eyes have the same strength/capability/ sharpness

[Spotmatic]

Great photos! For me it works best if I'm not too close to the monitor, otherwise my eyes are strained too much (it's getting worse by the way, now that I seem to get older. And I'm only 40 ).

[kds315*]

I'm 15 years older, but since I was a kid, I liked to make funny faces with exes twisted - no that ability comes handy

But guys, don't strain your eyes. If you get tired, or feel strain in your eyes, take a break!!

It helps indeed, to try with images having a vertical format, as lesser eye convergence is needed. I have done that with some of my flower images.

[Spotmatic]

One thing though... I have looked at them again and I must admit that the first one looks a bit artificial because of the large DOF? Would this photo work better if the mountains were a little more OOF? Just a thought, I have 0% experience with creating 3D photos.

[kds315*]

1) One of the golden rules of stereo photography is: "ALL has to be in focus" - from own experience this holds very true. (very hard for shooting macro btw.)
2) would be hard to achive anyway using a f11/26mm lens...

[DigiChromeEd]

Brilliant - especially #1! Great 3D effect. Would look even better if they were larger.

[Spotmatic]

[kds315*]

Well, you really don't have to for infinity shots, if the closest object is far enough away (using hyperfocal focusing distance setting). But it might be, that the image looks rather flat then. This is why usually for infinity shots, it is helpful to have something closer (a tree, bush etc.) which helps to "generate" the desired depth-effect.

I'm astonished that no-one has yet asked how I did make the two needed images for Left and Right. Well, easy - I used the cha-cha method. Frame and take a shot, then move the camera horizontally about 6.5cm (for infinity) to the right and take another shot (or to the left, does not matter). Very simple (well, after some practise, as there should be very little vertical shift). But works astonishingly well (if there are no moving objects in an image; animals, people, driving cars etc. als all no-no's), but not good if there is wind and trees move etc.

[kds315*]

[DigiChromeEd]