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tkbslc
Joined: 02 Jul 2009 Posts: 194 Location: Utah, USA
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Posted: Tue May 24, 2011 2:33 am Post subject: 50mm f1.4 with 1/3 or 1/2 stops? |
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tkbslc wrote:
I just got a Yashica ML 50mm f1.4 and I really don't like that it only has full stop aperture clicks. I want something that has at least one if not two clicks between f1.4 and f2, and f2 and f2.8 if possible. Anything of similar value/quality that I should look at? Any mount that works easy on my Canon 30D is fine. _________________ Canon 30D + some AF and MF lenses |
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Joosep
Joined: 25 Jan 2010 Posts: 305 Location: Estonia, Tallinn
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Posted: Tue May 24, 2011 9:45 am Post subject: |
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Joosep wrote:
My Topcon 58 1.4 and Revuenon 55 1.4 both have one click between 1.4-2.0 and 2.0-2.8.
Topcon maybe out of your price range, but you can get a Tomioka made 55 1.4 quite cheap these days. _________________ The future is analogue.
23 cameras, 25 lenses and counting. |
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ChromaticAberration
Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 819 Location: Portugal
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Posted: Tue May 24, 2011 10:00 am Post subject: |
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ChromaticAberration wrote:
This topic may help you too. _________________ Body: Fujifilm X-E1
Landscapes: Samyang 12mm f/2 NCS CS
Macro: Vivitar Series 1 105mm Æ’/2.5
Portrait: Helios-44 58mm Æ’/2.0
Low-light: SMC Takumar 50mm Æ’/1.4
_________________
Marketplace feedback
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a pнoтograpн ιѕ neιтнer тaĸen or ѕeιzed вy ғorce. ιт oғғerѕ ιтѕelғ υp. ιт ιѕ тнe pнoтo тнaт тaĸeѕ yoυ. one мυѕт noт тaĸe pнoтoѕ.†– нenrι carтιer-вreѕѕon |
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revers
Joined: 13 May 2010 Posts: 574 Location: In the country just north of Toronto Canada
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Posted: Tue May 24, 2011 11:30 am Post subject: |
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revers wrote:
My Minolta 50/1.4 jumps from 1.4 to 2 but there is one click between 2 & 2.8. _________________ Ron
Olympus OM-D E-M5, 14-42 & 45/1.8.
Panasonic G1, GF1, 14-45, 45-200 & various legacy lenses.
Canon S5, Sony 1.7 Tele-converter & Raynox DCR 150 Macro converter. |
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estudleon
Joined: 15 May 2008 Posts: 3754 Location: Argentina
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Posted: Tue May 24, 2011 1:47 pm Post subject: |
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estudleon wrote:
ALmost all the 35 mm manual focus lenses have a click between the apertures.
If you want that clicks, only one between the apertures is enough. They indicate 1/2 aperture setting. It is not necessary the 1/3 apperture click because between 1/2 and 1/3 of aperture, the difference is only 1/6 of aperture. Nothing in terms of exposure.
Now, having the F/1,4 and F/2 click indicators, do you need the F/1,7 ones too?
Why will you use the F/1,7 and not the F/1,4 or the F/2 ?
Rino. _________________ Konica 2,8/100
CZJ: 4/20, 2,4/35, 1,8/50 aus jena, 3,5/135MC, Pentacon 1,8/50
Pentax S-M-C-1,4/50
Helios 44-3
Mamiya 2,8/135
Misc. : jupiter 9
Stuff used:
A) SRL
Alpa 10 D - kern macro Switar 1,9/50 -black, Kilffit apochromat 2/100.
Asahi pentax spotmatic super takumar 1,4/50
Contaflex super B tessar 2,8/50 Pro-tessar 115
Leica R3 electronic summicron 2/50 elmarit 2,8/35
Konica Autoreflex 3 (2 black and chrome one), TC, T4. 2,8/24, 3,5/28 not MC and MC, 1,8/40, 1,4/50, 1,7/50 MC and not MC, 1,8/85, 3,2/135, 3,5/135, 4/200
Minolta XG9 2,8/35, 2/45, 3,5/135
Nikkormat FTn 1,4/50, 2,8/135
Fujica ST 801, 605, 705n. 3,5/19, 1,4/50, 1,8/55, 4/85, 3,5/135.
Praktica MTL 5 and a lot of M42 lenses.
Voigtlander. Bessamatic m, bessamatix de luxe, bessamatic cs, ultramatic and ultramatic cs.
Skoparex 3,5/35, skopagon 2/40, skopar 2,8/50, skopar X 2,8/50, super lanthar (out of catalogue) 2,8/50, dinarex 3,4/90, dinarex 4,8/100, super dinarex 4/135, super dinarex 4/200, zoomar 2,8/36-83, portrait lens 0, 1 and 2. Curtagon 4/28 and 2,8/35
Canon AV1, 1,8/50
Rolleiflex SL35 and SL35 E. 2,8/35 angulon, 2,8/35 distagon, 1,4/55 rolleinar, 1,8/50 planar, 4/135 tessar, 2,8/135 rolleinar, x2 rollei, M42 to rollei adap.
Etc.
RF
Yashica Minister III
Voightlander Vito, vitomatic I, Vito C, etc.
Leica M. M2, M3 (d.s.) and M4. Schenider 3,4/21, 2/35 summaron 2,8/35 (with eyes). Summicron 2/35 (8 elements with eyes), 2/35 chrome, 2/35 black, 1,4/35 pre asph and aspheric - old -, 2/40 summicron, 2,8/50 elmar, 2/50 7 elements, 2/50 DR, 2/50 - minolta version, 1,4/50 summilux 1966 version, 1,4/75 summilux, 2/90 large version, 2/90 reduced version of 1987, 2,8/90 elmarit large version, 4/135 elmar. |
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Cistron
Joined: 25 Feb 2011 Posts: 238 Location: London/Vienna
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Posted: Tue May 24, 2011 1:53 pm Post subject: |
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Cistron wrote:
estudleon wrote: |
Why will you use the F/1,7 and not the F/1,4 or the F/2 ? |
Compromise between exposure, depth of field and sharpness. I liked to use my 35mm f1.8G Nikkor at f2.2, simply because it was sharper than f2, but not much off f2.8. _________________ Canon 5D, Jupiter 11A 135mm f/4, Soligor (Tokina) 105mm f/2.8, Nikon 55mm f/1.2 S-Auto, Sigma MF 50mm f/2.8 Macro, Olympus Zuiko 50mm f/1.8 MC, Olympus Zuiko 28mm f/2.8 MC |
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estudleon
Joined: 15 May 2008 Posts: 3754 Location: Argentina
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Posted: Tue May 24, 2011 2:07 pm Post subject: |
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estudleon wrote:
Cistron wrote: |
estudleon wrote: |
Why will you use the F/1,7 and not the F/1,4 or the F/2 ? |
Compromise between exposure, depth of field and sharpness. I liked to use my 35mm f1.8G Nikkor at f2.2, simply because it was sharper than f2, but not much off f2.8. |
Touché.
Rino _________________ Konica 2,8/100
CZJ: 4/20, 2,4/35, 1,8/50 aus jena, 3,5/135MC, Pentacon 1,8/50
Pentax S-M-C-1,4/50
Helios 44-3
Mamiya 2,8/135
Misc. : jupiter 9
Stuff used:
A) SRL
Alpa 10 D - kern macro Switar 1,9/50 -black, Kilffit apochromat 2/100.
Asahi pentax spotmatic super takumar 1,4/50
Contaflex super B tessar 2,8/50 Pro-tessar 115
Leica R3 electronic summicron 2/50 elmarit 2,8/35
Konica Autoreflex 3 (2 black and chrome one), TC, T4. 2,8/24, 3,5/28 not MC and MC, 1,8/40, 1,4/50, 1,7/50 MC and not MC, 1,8/85, 3,2/135, 3,5/135, 4/200
Minolta XG9 2,8/35, 2/45, 3,5/135
Nikkormat FTn 1,4/50, 2,8/135
Fujica ST 801, 605, 705n. 3,5/19, 1,4/50, 1,8/55, 4/85, 3,5/135.
Praktica MTL 5 and a lot of M42 lenses.
Voigtlander. Bessamatic m, bessamatix de luxe, bessamatic cs, ultramatic and ultramatic cs.
Skoparex 3,5/35, skopagon 2/40, skopar 2,8/50, skopar X 2,8/50, super lanthar (out of catalogue) 2,8/50, dinarex 3,4/90, dinarex 4,8/100, super dinarex 4/135, super dinarex 4/200, zoomar 2,8/36-83, portrait lens 0, 1 and 2. Curtagon 4/28 and 2,8/35
Canon AV1, 1,8/50
Rolleiflex SL35 and SL35 E. 2,8/35 angulon, 2,8/35 distagon, 1,4/55 rolleinar, 1,8/50 planar, 4/135 tessar, 2,8/135 rolleinar, x2 rollei, M42 to rollei adap.
Etc.
RF
Yashica Minister III
Voightlander Vito, vitomatic I, Vito C, etc.
Leica M. M2, M3 (d.s.) and M4. Schenider 3,4/21, 2/35 summaron 2,8/35 (with eyes). Summicron 2/35 (8 elements with eyes), 2/35 chrome, 2/35 black, 1,4/35 pre asph and aspheric - old -, 2/40 summicron, 2,8/50 elmar, 2/50 7 elements, 2/50 DR, 2/50 - minolta version, 1,4/50 summilux 1966 version, 1,4/75 summilux, 2/90 large version, 2/90 reduced version of 1987, 2,8/90 elmarit large version, 4/135 elmar. |
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John Shriver
Joined: 24 Dec 2009 Posts: 199
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Posted: Sun Jul 24, 2011 7:24 pm Post subject: |
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John Shriver wrote:
On some lenses, it's probably quite possible to remove the aperture ring, and use a file or jeweler's saw to add more notches for click stops. |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 11054 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Sun Jul 24, 2011 7:47 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
John Shriver wrote: |
On some lenses, it's probably quite possible to remove the aperture ring, and use a file or jeweler's saw to add more notches for click stops. |
Or remove the ball bearing(s), makes diaphragm continuous no clicks. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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gewa13
Joined: 16 Feb 2010 Posts: 34 Location: Saxonia, Germany
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Posted: Wed Jul 27, 2011 3:16 pm Post subject: Re: 50mm f1.4 with 1/3 or 1/2 stops? |
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gewa13 wrote:
CZJ PB 1,4/50 has two clicks between f1,4 and f2 and f2,8. It is not easy to confirm infinity with adapters on Canon. Try a Rikenon 1,4/55 (M42): there is one click but youn can easiliy stop beween the clicks. _________________ Nikon D600, D300, Sony A3000, A6000, A7, Nikon F4, Canon 5D II, Canon D450, Pentax K30, Q, Q10, Olympus PEN PM2, OMD 5, Panasonic G3, Samsung NX1100, NX mini, Minolta 7D, Fujifilm S3pro, X-A1, Nikon FE2, Canon EOS3, Contaflex super, Minolta X700, Minolta Maxxum 9xi, Minolta Dynax7, Mamiya NC1000, Leica R4, Contax RTS, Olympus OM4 Titan, Praktica BX20, Ricoh XR-20sp, Pentax Me super, Kodak Retinareflex (Rodenstock Heligon C), Voigtl�nder Bessamatic, Kiev60, Mamiya 645 and lots of lenses |
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