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mavtop
Joined: 10 Apr 2016 Posts: 32
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Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2016 12:54 pm Post subject: Tokina ATX 80-200mm F2.8 SD focus problems |
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mavtop wrote:
Hi all,
i was a lurker for years of this forum, but now i have a problem with a manual len, so i ask to you experts.
Monthes ago i bought a Tokina ATX 80-200mm F2.8 in Canon FD mount, i had already the Tokina 80-200mm F4, the Minolta 70-210mm F4 and Vivitar Series 1 70-210 F3.5, but wanted to have a F2.8 lens, so i found a decent copy and bought it.
The len seems perfect, i can't see nothing wrong with it, mirrors are cleaned, not fog inside, nothing.
Today i had some time to test it, so I used a fotga canon fd to nex adapter that i used for other canon fd lens (maybe i have also another Canon-FD to NEX adapter to try) on my new Sony A6000 camera.
Trying it discovered that:
1) at F2.8 it is very soft (against all the reviews i read) and it is very sharp from > F4 (it has half stop after F4 and one after F4 seems perfect at 80mm)
2) i taken some pictures with the FL 80mm and discovered that i could put in (almost) perfect focus objects at about 60-70cm of distance and also less, while on the lens the minimal focus point is around 1,8m
3) i taken some pictures with the FL 80mm and i couldn't focus on object at 2-2,5m of distance (tried to use the indication marks on the len and then turned all the focus ring from minimal to infinity with no luck)
4) i zoomed between 80 and 200mm in the middle and i could focus on the same object at 2-2,5m of distance.
While i know there are some adapters that can't focus to infinity (for few tollerance errors) i never know of this problem, minimal focus distance is 1,8m in all the reviews and specs that i can find on the web while i can focus instead at <60cm of distance, but not at 2m at FL 80mm.
Do you know how to fix this problem ?
If you need some test shots, i have them, or you ask me what you would like to have shot and which focal lens.
I suspect someone opened the len and maybe put some mirror in the opposite way when closed it.
For you this kind of error, can also bring soft focus at F2.8 ?
If someone know how to check my problem, let me know.
If someone know how to disassembly the len, let me know.
I will try to find the second Canon FD to Nex adapter i have, and i will check if with that too i have the same problems.
Thanks for all your help.
mav_top |
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mavtop
Joined: 10 Apr 2016 Posts: 32
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Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2016 1:44 pm Post subject: |
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mavtop wrote:
For people that doesn't know the len
I uploaded some pictures of my len, you can read the minimal focus distance of 1.8 meters or 6 feet
#1
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2016 1:51 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
mav_top, it sounds to me like your lens has problems, perhaps more than one.
I have the Tamron version of this lens -- the 80-200/2.8. And I had problems with mine too. Shortly after I bought it, I noticed where it would only focus on objects up close (say 2 meters and closer), and then not too long after than, one day I picked it up and I heard it make a >clunk!< noise. I looked into the lens, only to discover that a large inner group had come apart and fallen down into the lens. I was able to remove the front element and screw that big group back into place, which fixed things.
So, I recommend that you inspect the internals of your lens, see if any of the groups are moving differently than they should, listen for rattles, inspect the push-pull for too much flex or wobble, etc. Doing so might reveal something. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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mavtop
Joined: 10 Apr 2016 Posts: 32
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Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2016 2:40 pm Post subject: |
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mavtop wrote:
for now i only removed the external element, it was so easy, just rotating on the red stripe and it permit to remove the first external mirror easily.
I inspected the inner element and it seems ok, but i don't know how to disassembly it.
The push-poll zoom seems ok also if it creeps down if i keep the len vertically, but i suppose it is normal with time passing.
I suspect i have to open the len, but if i can't find some instructions or someone that has the same len and know how to do i will have to keep it in the shelf and it would be a mess for me, i wanted really use it in future in low light, for concert or similar events.
I will have to wait for some help.
Thanks for now cooltouch
mav_top
Last edited by mavtop on Sun Apr 10, 2016 2:41 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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fwcetus
Joined: 12 Jun 2015 Posts: 303 Location: New England
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Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2016 2:40 pm Post subject: Re: Tokina ATX 80-200mm F2.8 SD focus problems |
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fwcetus wrote:
mavtop wrote: |
1) at F2.8 it is very soft (against all the reviews i read) and it is very sharp from > F4 (it has half stop after F4 and one after F4 seems perfect at 80mm) |
This certainly doesn't help with all of your questions (and is not to suggest that there is nothing at all wrong with your lens), but I have had two of these critters (one in K-mount trim and one in Ka-mount), and neither one was overly sharp (but both still usable) wide open at f/2.8, although (not surprisingly) much sharper stopped down.
[This in contrast to its AT-X 300/4 sibling, which I found surprisingly sharp wide open.]
As for the AT-X 80-200/2.8 reviews, I don't have any in front of me right now, but I seem to recall that they were never all in agreement over the sharpness of this particular design. (?) _________________ Fred
If you saw a fellow drowning, and you could either save him or photograph the event . . . What lens would you use ? |
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calvin83
Joined: 12 Apr 2009 Posts: 7584 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2016 3:05 pm Post subject: |
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calvin83 wrote:
This F2.8 zoom is not bad of its time but don't expect miracle when used wide open.
https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/topic/tokina-atx-mf-80-200-f-2-8-43762#comm476806 _________________ The best lens is the one you have with you.
https://lensfever.com/
https://www.instagram.com/_lens_fever/ |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2016 5:15 pm Post subject: Re: Tokina ATX 80-200mm F2.8 SD focus problems |
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cooltouch wrote:
fwcetus wrote: |
As for the AT-X 80-200/2.8 reviews, I don't have any in front of me right now, but I seem to recall that they were never all in agreement over the sharpness of this particular design. (?) |
If you go to adaptall-2.org and load the page for the 30A SP 80-200/2.8 LD, it has resolution and contrast numbers from Modern Photography lens tests for both the Tamron 30A and the Tokina 80-200/2.8 SD
http://adaptall-2.org/lenses/30A.html _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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marcusBMG
Joined: 07 Dec 2012 Posts: 1318 Location: Conwy N Wales
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Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2016 6:13 pm Post subject: |
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marcusBMG wrote:
Gotta figure out these lenses. I recently acquired the tokina made viv series 1 70-210mm, bit of fungus on the front elements. No prob! Three grub screws were obviously what needed to be loosened to remove the front assembly. Only they weren't. The front elements came out with just the removal of the nameplate. The grub screws were locking the infinity focus adjust. Well it's all back together, and focusses to (past!) infinity but its still not quite right.
I read somewhere that the tok 80-200 f2,8 dissassembles relatively easily... presumably a previous owner was cleaning or st, but also tripped over the infinity adjust... _________________ pentax ME super (retired)
Pentax K3-ii; pentax K-S2; Samsung NX 20; Lumix G1 + adapters;
Adaptall collection (proliferating!) inc 200-500mm 31A, 300mm f2.8, 400mm f4.
Primes: takumar 55mm; smc 28mm, 50mm; kino/komine 28mm f2's, helios 58mm, Tamron Nestar 400mm, novoflex 400mm, Vivitar 135mm close focus, 105mm macro; Jupiter 11A; CZJ 135mm.
A classic zoom or two: VS1 (komine), Kiron Zoomlock... |
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WolverineX
Joined: 19 Apr 2009 Posts: 1693 Location: Zagreb , Croatia , Europe
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Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2016 6:24 pm Post subject: |
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WolverineX wrote:
because you can focus only close , one of the glass elements is probably turned wrong way. probably someone cleaned the lens and reassembled it wrong. as for softness wide open, use the lens hood that you have there _________________ my tools:Oly E-M5 + 45mm/1.8 + Oly E-520 + 12-60 + 14-42 + 70-300 + Sigma 105mm + FL-50R + EC20 + SRF-11 ring flash
http://forum.mflenses.com/wolverinex-testing-my-lenses-series-link-list-t39524.html |
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marcusBMG
Joined: 07 Dec 2012 Posts: 1318 Location: Conwy N Wales
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Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2016 7:32 pm Post subject: |
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marcusBMG wrote:
WolverineX wrote: |
one of the glass elements is probably turned wrong way. |
That would ruin IQ. it's st like the infinity adjust, or the helicoid incorrectly reassembled. _________________ pentax ME super (retired)
Pentax K3-ii; pentax K-S2; Samsung NX 20; Lumix G1 + adapters;
Adaptall collection (proliferating!) inc 200-500mm 31A, 300mm f2.8, 400mm f4.
Primes: takumar 55mm; smc 28mm, 50mm; kino/komine 28mm f2's, helios 58mm, Tamron Nestar 400mm, novoflex 400mm, Vivitar 135mm close focus, 105mm macro; Jupiter 11A; CZJ 135mm.
A classic zoom or two: VS1 (komine), Kiron Zoomlock... |
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WNG555
Joined: 18 Dec 2014 Posts: 784 Location: Arrid-Zone-A, USA
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Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 1:16 am Post subject: |
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WNG555 wrote:
marcusBMG wrote: |
WolverineX wrote: |
one of the glass elements is probably turned wrong way. |
That would ruin IQ. it's st like the infinity adjust, or the helicoid incorrectly reassembled. |
If it's just focus range adjust, he would still be able to achieve focus between the MFD and Infinity. But he can't.
The lens shouldn't be able to focus shorter than the MFD of this lens.
As cooltouch mentioned, I concur that either the mid group of floating elements has worked loose. Or an element is reversed by someone who opened it to service.
Be careful, the front red ringed section is screwed onto place, but has a grub screw to lock it down, make sure you loosen this grub screw before unthreading the front section. Otherwise you'll score the threads.
Once the front elements are removed, the middle element group is in a floating assembly. Determine if it's on tight. It unscrews as a unit. A lens spanner is needed. Once out the whole disassembles. The lens is large, so it's relatively easy to work on and all the glass is accessible for cleaning. It was the 1st lens I tried to service and even without prior experience, this zoom is a piece of cake to work on.
To determine if an element is reversed, you'll need to find a schematic of the layout. Sorry, I can't provide one.
Tip: An effective way to remove the lens elements and place them back, is to use a high quality painter's masking tape. Usually colored green or blue. The adhesive is good enough to hold onto the glass, but not impart any adhesive residue when pulled off. I take sections and loop them. Touch the face of the element and lift it out. The tape also helps to keep track of the correct outward facing side of each element. Makes reassembly error proof. _________________ "The eyes are useless when the mind is blind."
Sony ILCE-6000, SELP1650, SEL1855, SEL55210, SEL5018. Sigma 19/30/60mm f2.8 EX DN Art.
Rokinon 8mm f3.5 Fish-Eye, 14mm f2.8 IF ED UMC. Samyang 12mm f2.8 ED AS NCS Fish-Eye.
And a bunch of Manual-Focus Lenses
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calvin83
Joined: 12 Apr 2009 Posts: 7584 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 4:53 am Post subject: |
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calvin83 wrote:
You can find the drawing of the lens scheme if you have the box or here Click here to see on Ebay . _________________ The best lens is the one you have with you.
https://lensfever.com/
https://www.instagram.com/_lens_fever/ |
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TrueLoveOne
Joined: 30 Sep 2012 Posts: 1839 Location: Netherlands
Expire: 2013-12-24
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Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 8:43 am Post subject: |
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TrueLoveOne wrote:
Here's a video on how to disassemble the Tokina 2.8/80-200 : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQ0XcErf9OE
It's not the most complicated lens.
This is (or should be) a very good lens, mine is not perfect because it has a slightly hazy element, but that does not keep it from making very nice pictures! Here's a topic on mine: http://forum.mflenses.com/tokina-at-x-sd-2-8-80-200-hazy-element-t74276.html
Cheers, René. _________________ My Flickr photostream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/chantalrene/
Sony A7, Canon 5D mkII, Minolta 7D + RD3000 and some more.....
Minolta and Konica collector.... slowly selling all the other stuff! |
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mavtop
Joined: 10 Apr 2016 Posts: 32
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Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 8:50 am Post subject: |
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mavtop wrote:
I thank you all, maybe i found a video of Nelson https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQ0XcErf9OE that will help me to disassembly the front element up to the middle element.
I found something strange in his video, he remove the 3 screws before rotating the red stripe and he got a block with i suppose 2 lens together.
When i yesterday rotated the red stripe i got the ring with the len info away (that you can see from front of the len), and below it there was a single mirror, that was just against on the ring, then putting the len downward the mirror got out, but it was just the single mirror element and not a block with plastic with two lens.
But maybe i had to remove the 3 screws before rotating the red stripe.
I hope to have time today to check it again.
Anyway i see around video and photo shots at f2.8 and maybe they are soft but not like mine, mine has like a glow at f2.8 and i suspect someone didn't mount the mirrors in the right position after cleaning it.
I will update maybe later with some shots taken yesterday just to show you the glow i see at f2.8
mav_top |
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mavtop
Joined: 10 Apr 2016 Posts: 32
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Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 8:52 am Post subject: |
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mavtop wrote:
Thanks Rene' i found the video too and posted without reading your message, sorry about it
i will give a read of your topic
mav_top
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mavtop
Joined: 10 Apr 2016 Posts: 32
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Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 10:38 am Post subject: |
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mavtop wrote:
Just to show you the actual status of my len i will post some images i taken yesterday before i discovered the focus problem, if i zoom at 100% the F2.8 shots i can't find a sharp focus point and i see some glow, maybe are my eyes
135mm at F2.8 iso 500 1/500sec indoor object at 120 cm focus on the middle
#1
80mm at F2.8 iso 400 1/500sec outdoor object at 70 cm focus on the middle
#2
80mm at F2.8 iso 500 1/640sec outdoor object at 70 cm focus on the middle yellow tongue
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80mm at F2.8 iso 500 1/640sec outdoor object at 70 cm focus on the top left yellow tongue
#4
100mm at F2.8 iso 1250 1/200sec indoor object at 70 cm focus on the middle vertical lines
#5
80mm at F4 iso 3200 1/200sec indoor object at 70 cm focus on the middle vertical lines
#6
80mm at F5.6 iso 3200 1/200sec indoor object at 70 cm focus on the middle vertical lines
#7
80mm at F8 iso 2500 1/125sec indoor object at 60 cm focus on the middle vertical lines
#8
80mm at F2.8 iso 2500 1/125sec indoor object at 60 cm focus on AVVENIRE VIAGGI
#9
80mm at F4 iso 2500 1/200sec indoor object at 60 cm focus on AVVENIRE VIAGGI
#10
100mm at F4 iso 2500 1/200sec indoor object at 60 cm focus on AVVENIRE VIAGGI
#11
100mm at F4 iso 2500 1/200sec indoor object at 60 cm focus on AVVENIRE VIAGGI
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mavtop
Joined: 10 Apr 2016 Posts: 32
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Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 10:43 am Post subject: |
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mavtop wrote:
the last one from yesterday that i couldn't upload , always errors up to i resized at 80% of the original size
135mm at F2.8 iso 3200 1/200sec indoor object a 2-2,5 meters focus on GRAND CANYON
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marcusBMG
Joined: 07 Dec 2012 Posts: 1318 Location: Conwy N Wales
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Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 1:31 pm Post subject: |
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marcusBMG wrote:
That IQ is bad enough to suggest WolverineW could be right. _________________ pentax ME super (retired)
Pentax K3-ii; pentax K-S2; Samsung NX 20; Lumix G1 + adapters;
Adaptall collection (proliferating!) inc 200-500mm 31A, 300mm f2.8, 400mm f4.
Primes: takumar 55mm; smc 28mm, 50mm; kino/komine 28mm f2's, helios 58mm, Tamron Nestar 400mm, novoflex 400mm, Vivitar 135mm close focus, 105mm macro; Jupiter 11A; CZJ 135mm.
A classic zoom or two: VS1 (komine), Kiron Zoomlock... |
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mavtop
Joined: 10 Apr 2016 Posts: 32
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Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 2:29 pm Post subject: |
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mavtop wrote:
Infact i suspect that something is wrong.
Hope to have some time later today to check elements behind the front element, but i will have to find good screwdrivers to remove the 3 screws, without removing those 3 screws i can't go on.
I bought a spanner wrench some time ago because i want to fix a Rokkor 300mm F4.5 that seems have some haze inside.
So now i miss only the screwdrivers, i seen the 3 screws are really tiny.
mav_top
marcusBMG wrote: |
That IQ is bad enough to suggest WolverineW could be right. |
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Gardener
Joined: 22 Sep 2013 Posts: 950 Location: USA
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Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 3:10 pm Post subject: |
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Gardener wrote:
mavtop wrote: |
I inspected the inner element and it seems ok, but i don't know how to disassembly it. |
Just don't. There are like 20 elements in this thing, you will never get it right.
It's normal for vintage lenses to focus closer than MFD, because many adapters, particularly cheap ones, are made a bit thinner, either to ensure infinity focus, or through poor manufacturing.
It's normal for zoom lenses to have variable sharpness at different focal lengths/distances, as to this lens designers optimize them for best performance in most used scenarios, sacrificing performance in other ranges. |
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mavtop
Joined: 10 Apr 2016 Posts: 32
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Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 3:43 pm Post subject: |
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mavtop wrote:
Hi Gardener and thanks for your reply,
i too suspect that it will not be so easy to do, for this i asked your help.
Maybe i found a diagram of the len's elements also if only a part of them, i will try to check all i can and i will clean all the mirrors i can manage to get out from len.
If i will be able to fix it, good, else i will sell it (also if i will not be happy to do, it is my only F2.8 zoom i have).
Yes i know that quality of the zoom are not good, but for that age this len was one of the best (maybe after the tamron), more i found around the web but also in this forum shots taken at f2.8 that are a lot better than mine.
I know that some adapter can have 1-2mm in more without respecting the standard, but i don't think it can moves the focus from a minimal of 1,8 meter at 50-60 cm (3 times less than original), anyway i will check my other FD-nex adapter when i will find it (i have 12 boxes filled with manual lens, adapter, teleconverters, flashes, never had time to divide items, but i will have to do in the next future).
To clean mirrors, i have bought alchool isoprophyl at 99%, how i have to use it ? I read someone use 50% of it and 50% di ammoniaca. I was thinking of use it with 50% of bi-distillated water, do you think is the right way ?
Let me know and thanks to all again.
mav_top
Gardener wrote: |
mavtop wrote: |
I inspected the inner element and it seems ok, but i don't know how to disassembly it. |
Just don't. There are like 20 elements in this thing, you will never get it right.
It's normal for vintage lenses to focus closer than MFD, because many adapters, particularly cheap ones, are made a bit thinner, either to ensure infinity focus, or through poor manufacturing.
It's normal for zoom lenses to have variable sharpness at different focal lengths/distances, as to this lens designers optimize them for best performance in most used scenarios, sacrificing performance in other ranges. |
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marcusBMG
Joined: 07 Dec 2012 Posts: 1318 Location: Conwy N Wales
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Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 4:04 pm Post subject: |
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marcusBMG wrote:
Gardener wrote: |
It's normal for vintage lenses to focus closer than MFD, because many adapters, particularly cheap ones, are made a bit thinner, either to ensure infinity focus, or through poor manufacturing.
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True, but in fact not noticeably so at longer that UWA/WA lens focal lengths (we're only talking a mm or so). There is major problem(s) with this lens.
I have tried a couple of examples of this lens, it's a bit soft at f2.8 IME, but then is generally good at all focal lengths - it was a "pro" lens.
Canon 100D, OM mount lens adapted.
100% crop - this is the sharpness mavtop should expect. I don't recall the f, shutter was 1/640th at ISO 800 so stopped down a fair amount.
_________________ pentax ME super (retired)
Pentax K3-ii; pentax K-S2; Samsung NX 20; Lumix G1 + adapters;
Adaptall collection (proliferating!) inc 200-500mm 31A, 300mm f2.8, 400mm f4.
Primes: takumar 55mm; smc 28mm, 50mm; kino/komine 28mm f2's, helios 58mm, Tamron Nestar 400mm, novoflex 400mm, Vivitar 135mm close focus, 105mm macro; Jupiter 11A; CZJ 135mm.
A classic zoom or two: VS1 (komine), Kiron Zoomlock... |
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mavtop
Joined: 10 Apr 2016 Posts: 32
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Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 4:50 pm Post subject: |
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mavtop wrote:
Perfect marcusBMG, that is that i aspected from a lens like this, F2.8 little soft, but then really any other F-stop really sharp.
Thanks for posting your image, this is the quality i aspect from this len and not that i'm seeing now from it in my shots, using a 24MP APS-C camera like the Sony A6000 then i would use all its resolution (i know i'm using all the center part of it for the crop factor).
mav_top
marcusBMG wrote: |
Gardener wrote: |
It's normal for vintage lenses to focus closer than MFD, because many adapters, particularly cheap ones, are made a bit thinner, either to ensure infinity focus, or through poor manufacturing.
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True, but in fact not noticeably so at longer that UWA/WA lens focal lengths (we're only talking a mm or so). There is major problem(s) with this lens.
I have tried a couple of examples of this lens, it's a bit soft at f2.8 IME, but then is generally good at all focal lengths - it was a "pro" lens.
Canon 100D, OM mount lens adapted.
100% crop - this is the sharpness mavtop should expect. I don't recall the f, shutter was 1/640th at ISO 800 so stopped down a fair amount.
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mavtop
Joined: 10 Apr 2016 Posts: 32
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Posted: Tue May 03, 2016 12:25 pm Post subject: |
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mavtop wrote:
I need some help from someone has this len.
I saw the video, but i have an issue, after removing the 3 screws on the side, and after rotating the red stripes, i got access to a single len
# This is the single len
and not to a pack with 2 lenses, infact in the video Nelson get a block while i get a single len, and below it, there is another len that i can't remove, but there are stripes before the len, but i can't see a place (holes or lines) where to put the wrench tool.
# The len below the first removed
# The stripes before the 2nd len
I tried with my fingers to rotate the stripes manually but nothing happened.
I don't see points where to put the wrench tool.
If you have any hints or ideas.
Thanks
mav_top |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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